So you heading in the right path.
So the CMCPDPS (good lord btw) - or (clutch master cylinder push rod position sensor) is a simple 3 wire hall effect sensor.

C1690 Pin 3 is the 5 VDC VREF from PCM connector C1381B Pin 11 at the S157 splice point. It shares this reference voltage with the A/C Pressure Transducer, Turbocharger Boost Pressure, & Crankcase Ventilation Monitor. It should not read lower than 4.8 and no higher than 5.5 VDC.

C1690 Pin 1 is the CPP SIGRTN (PCM Ground) to PCM C1381B Pin 17.


C1690 Pin 2 is the actual sensor output back to PCM C1381B Pin 76 CPP.

Usually when dealing with corrosion on copper it will provide a voltage drop because of the extra resistance, however you have checked both continuity and resistance.

PCM plugged in and C1690 CPP sensor unplug the should read between the suggested VREF voltages Pin 1&3.
C1690 plugged back in with Pin 2 de-pinned test the sensor output for normal function Pin 1&2. If sensor output is normal and voltage is being detected on Pin 2 wire from PCM then you most likely have a damaged PCM module.

J

 

Yes I had 5 volts on 1 and 3, pin two has like .07 volts to it, which according to the manual indicates a short circuit, another reason I'm narrowing it down to pcm, is I actually did an overlay of pin 2 to the pcm, and I changed absolutely nothing, normally if there's a short in a system like that and overlay at least starts to clean things up. It's interesting that pin three shares a splice with the turbo output as he also claimed his boost gauge was all over the place, didn't see anything off but it could be sporadic

 

I have the same exact issue, I changed the CPP sensors but there are 2 and one other member had the same issue and ended up changing it for the third time to get a good working sensor.
I haven't changed the the upper side sensor yet, its pain in the ass but I did change the master cylinder pedal assembly when I put in a new clutch.
You can test it by reading the CPP switch readings should should 50-100 and 0-50 something like that mine is either 66.7 or 100%.
I am guessing your cruise control wont turn on too as safety measure?

 

Exactly the same,66 percent at top, and 97 percent at bottom, and cruise doesn't work.

 

Yes same it turned the car into a old school jaguar, Hold the brake in and clutch and hold the start button until it starts lol
I dont mind it but the thing is it says press clutch and brake but I dont have to press the clutch it thinks its pressed or something.

Anyway I will take buy new sets of sensors and try again. If not I am guessing its a PCM issue.
How much does a PCM programming and a used PCM go cost? any idea?

 

I'm gonna make a guess of around 500 or more for a pcm, not sure on programming

 

Just to be clear do we need to marry the AP before any kind of PCM swap?

 

Yes you will need to unmarry the AP and update its firmware before installing onto the new PCM. You will likely need to inform your tuner as well.

J

 

Was there any solution to this?

 

I'm guessing you changed both switches? Upper and Lower.

 

I haven’t had the time either but maybe mine is a wiring issue and i probably accidentally cut wires with the grinder when i was grinding this part off to fit the assembly along with the sensor already in place, i’m hoping that’s the case 🤞🏽

 

Ummm, why did you cut steel?

 

While you are in there, why not check what voltage you are getting?

 

I don’t have a multimeter 😕

 

Just picked this one up from harbor freight, my cables are good, showed 10v for both. but don’t know how to read the switches, does it need to be in ohms?

 

can someone please explain what in the world does this sensor do...... I took it off my old master cylinder and put it on the new one and i think it might be the solution to my problem

 

Lol!! Yeah thats a Clutch Pedal sensor, well clutch movement. The new one didnt have one installed? Thats odd. Plug that in!!!

 

wait whats the location of that sensor? Is it in the engine bay?

 

Yeah, thats the sensor I was trying to determine if he had. Apparently, he has 2 pedal switches and the clutch master sensor. This is a 15 plus thang. Prefacelift only has the pedal sensors.

Its literally attached to the clutch master in the engine bay.

Its whats causing his issues, lol.

 

Fun fact!!! Cannot purchase this sensor separately!!! I managed to f*** it up while trying to install it, searched everywhere and nowhere to be found.. called ford dealership and they said that there is no part number for this sensor so i will need to buy a new master cylinder that has the sensor already on it!!!! some 🐮 💩

 

Check wrecking yards/dismantlers for a used part.

 

and I replaced my master cylinder, so it means it never came with one!

also where does it hook onto?

 

So both of my clutch switches that are inside are brand new, i disconnected this sensor from inside the engine bay behind the battery box just to see if the clutch pedal position would go back to 0% and as the picture shows it did which means this is the bad sensor, i just don’t have enough money and time to buy the master with the sensor on it, I believe this should fix everyone’s problem (don’t take my word for it)

 

Let me place an order for an RS cpedal which comes with this sensor, I will report back when its installed.

Ok I need some help here,
This is for 2013-2018 ST, they have the full clutch kit for the ST. and this is the part#
and out of these the last one is for our car.

Which is this part

Now for the RS they have this which is what I need technically.

Here is the part which I hope comes with the sensor.

 

BUMP, looking for input on my above post.

 

It comes with the sensor. I installed an RS master on my buddies '13 ST.

 

Forgot to mention @StanE , you'd have to swap clutch masters again too, so you'd be removing the pedal assembly, which would put you in the same predicament you are in.

You're going to need to outsource this labor. Get that bad boy plugged in correctly, and verify the other sensor too.

 

Did anyone have any resolve to this? I just replaced my clutch and master cylinder and now it's acting up. It's doing the same exact thing, 66% when pedal is up, 100% when it's down. I unplugged the firewall sensor and it shows zero now. I'm wondering if I somehow damaged it? Anyway, did anyone fix theirs?

Thanks

 

Did you even read the thread?
Post #44 shows what part you need and what sensor to connect.

 

Well, I ordered the new part, hopefully it fixes it and that I don't need to take out the whole master again. I'll be sure to update if it fixes it to help future owners that may encounter this same issue.

 

Yes, that is the part which will fix it, since we have the same exact symptoms.
66% pedal position.
Its a pain in the ass either way, you have to remove the battery and also the bolts from inside the car.
good luck.

 

Thanks for confirming that it fixed yours. already have the battery/box out of the car, so at least there's that. I was able to unclip it and remove it without removing the pedal assembly, so I'm hoping I can snap the new one into place. I really don't even see how I could've damaged my old one... I guess they must be sorta delicate?

 

they have a magnetic strip inside which I believe go bad over time.

 

So just wanted to follow up with an update, I swapped the hall effect sensor and it still gave the same code, however, I tested with the sensor hooked up to the master cylinder it came with and the fault went away. Meaning that there is an internal difference on the master cylinders with the sensors and the ones without. It's weird though, because they have a spot to hook up the hall sensor on both styles. Anyway, I guess I just have to swap the plunger assembly and apply it to the pedal mechanism. Oh well, hope this helps someone in the future. In other words, when buying one for a 15+, make sure that it comes with the sensor!

 

The part # screenshot I posted before shows a master cylinder for an RS, 13, and 14 I believe did not come with this sensor.
You can buy the RS part and it comes with the sensor for sure. If buying for an ST they might ship 13 or 14 year cylinder

 

Ford told me they can calibrate the sensor on the master cylinder for 30.00. So it may just need to be recalibrated. I'm gonna try that before even trying to redo the master cylinder. XD

 

Currently at Ford. Should be done soon. 🤷 Many people have told me calibrating sensors isn't a thing....so... we'll see. XD I'm very much hoping I won't have to redo the entire clutch pedal.

 

Let us know if they were able to do this, it would save a lot of labor.

or as usual making stuff outta their ass

 

So this is from Ford...though not sure why it says I think when they told me they could calibrate it. I'll have to eventually tear in to it again, but either A. Calibration is a thing, or B as I've said before. The employees here are on drugs. 🤣🤣🤣

 

yea no wire chase needed, someone else made a new thread about this issue and has good diagrams.

 

I cant find it. could you post a link and I'll pin it? (If I can pin it for others who stumble on this thread?)