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DIY / How-to – ST3 HID Bulb Swap: D8S -->D3S

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195K views 299 replies 72 participants last post by  chefboyarie  
#1 · (Edited)
Along with my the improvements I’ve made to my fog lights, I’ve also been looking around to upgrade my headlights. For those who have been doing any research at all, you are probably well aware that the HID system in the ST3 is both underpowered when it comes to output and wattage, but also very weak compared to the OEM systems that are avilable today. From my understanding, Ford decided to go the route of a “green” design and use less power (25W vs the standard 35W ballasts) and also wanted to say under the U.S. requirement of “anything over 2000 lumens requires auto adjustments and washer sprayers” so they stuck right at 2000 lumens. What that translates to is HIDs that are basically the same output as halogens, but called HIDs for marketing purposes (in my opinion). Anyways, I thought they sucked after having my last 3 cars with HIDs so I wanted to make them better.

I’ve been poking around the idea of a complete retrofit, swapping out for new projectors, clear lenses, and higher wattage ballasts and bulbs. However, I don’t have the bulbs (pun intended) to cut apart my $4K worth of leadlight housings I have to “give it a try” at this point and while I am still waiting to hear back from some retrofit companies, I wanted to see what was possible from a wattage increase by itself. Now the D8S bulbs that come from the factory are very unique, only being used on a few Ford cars and all with the 25W ballasts. No aftermarket setups available at this point. Dang, need to move on to option two. If you look at the back of the headlight housing, all of the bulb sizes are listed that fit into the headlight assembly. For the HID’s, it mentions both a D8S bulb and a D3S bulb. The D3S is still a Hg free (murcury free) bulb, but it is a little more widely used and also has much higher outputs. Turns out that the D3S bulb can be used in the housing with just a simple modification which is about 15 seconds worth of effort. This option shows some promise, now it was time to see what was available out there.

I started poking around on the HIDplanet forum as well as on the “Headlight Junkies” page on Facebook and lucked out with finding someone selling an OEM Osram (same company as our HIDs) 35W D3S bulb/ballast setup out of a later model Audi. Seemed to fit just what I was looking for: 35W system, D3S bulbs, 3400 lumens of output… Perfect! Hit the guy up, sent them out a day later, had them in my hand within the week. Ended up paying about $180 shipped. Might have been able to get them for a little cheaper, but wasn’t really worth the battle as I have no idea what they should have been. They were OEM, working, and fit everything I was looking for. The ballast info is posted in a picture down below, but the bulbs I picked up were 66340HBI bulbs

Now that you have the back story, here’s how you can do it to your car (I take no responsibility for messing anything up on your end. It will still require you to do your own research, but this is my story and how it worked out for me).
 
#44 · (Edited)
The stock cables won't, the connectors are indexed differently.


I went ahead with my install yesterday, but had no luck. Either I got 2 bad ballasts, 2 bad bulbs, or the ballast is pinned differently for input power (unlikely). My first guess is the bulbs, because the box they were shipped to me in was thoroughly crunched, and had been shaken around a lot.

 
#43 ·
Sub'd!
 
#45 · (Edited)
I think I've figured out what the issue is. The ballasts I have (from an Edge/Explorer) need THREE wires on the input plug. Our cars have three pins, but only two of those are wired. So be careful, some ballasts have that third wire for what's called "remote trigger".

Another thing I found out was that you need a cable to run between the ballast and bulb, because the one for D3S is different than the D8S.
 
#46 ·
I wonder if you could tap into the power line going to the ballast and have it kick on the remote one. I'm assuming that if the ST doesn't have a remote line like that, it probably just sends power when it turns on. Maybe worth a try?
 
#48 · (Edited)
Well the initial ballasts that i purchased had 4 pins on the input side. Rather than try to figure out how to hack up the stock wiring harness I just decided to order the exact ballasts as Muddy has since it was plug and play.

Also struggled to find the ballast to bulb cables. I bought some on ebay that were labeled as D3S but they would not connect to my D3S bulbs. Grrr.

I finally found a ford oem part number DL3Z13A006D and have those on their way. These should work as they are for a Ford F150 which has a D3S bulb which I verified by looking up a replacement bulb for it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121320585840?redirect=mobile

My advice is to spend a bit more and look for a complete set exactly like Muddy has instead if trying to save money and piece it together.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#52 · (Edited)
Well the initial ballasts that i purchased had 4 pins on the input side. Rather than try to figure out how to hack up the stock wiring harness I just decided to order the exact ballasts as Muddy has since it was plug and play.

Also struggled to find the ballast to bulb cables. I bought some on ebay that were labeled as D3S but they would not connect to my D3S bulbs. Grrr.

I finally found a ford oem part number DL3Z13A006D and have those on their way. These should work as they are for a Ford F150 which has a D3S bulb which I verified by looking up a replacement bulb for it.

Fordlincoln DL3Z13A006D Genuine Wire | eBay

My advice is to spend a bit more and look for a complete set exactly like Muddy has instead if trying to save money and piece it together.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did this myself today, after running into many of the same problems.

Ordered a set of ballasts on ebay, but they were the Remote Enable version so they didn't work.
Broke a pin off of the inside connection one of my my new Osram CBI d3s bulbs. Luckily i'm decent with a soldering iron and had the tip to solder it back on.

Today I got the correct ballasts in and all installed.

I again, used the soldering iron to melt away a corner of the factory bulb to ballast connectors to allow them to fit in the d3s sockets.
I did this because I didn't want to wait any longer, especially after the d3s cables I had ordered were incorrect, like the poster above...

All in all, a worth while upgrade over the stock d8s setup. It's brighter, but I can't say for sure yet as it's too foggy out right now to really test them.
Exactly this. I ran into the same problem with my second pair of ballasts, the fact that actual D3S cables are impossible to find. I'll be doing it with a soldering iron and a pencil dremel to make the stock wires work.


Same best advice to anyone else going after this: Buy ballasts that come with the wires (and the same part number ballasts Muddy got)


Another thing, my bulbs Philips xtreme vision) have an all metal base. The dremel still took care of making the notch, but it was more difficult than if it was plastic.
 
#49 ·
Did this myself today, after running into many of the same problems.

Ordered a set of ballasts on ebay, but they were the Remote Enable version so they didn't work.
Broke a pin off of the inside connection one of my my new Osram CBI d3s bulbs. Luckily i'm decent with a soldering iron and had the tip to solder it back on.

Today I got the correct ballasts in and all installed.

I again, used the soldering iron to melt away a corner of the factory bulb to ballast connectors to allow them to fit in the d3s sockets.
I did this because I didn't want to wait any longer, especially after the d3s cables I had ordered were incorrect, like the poster above...

All in all, a worth while upgrade over the stock d8s setup. It's brighter, but I can't say for sure yet as it's too foggy out right now to really test them.
 
#53 ·
FYI I received my Ford OEM F150 D3S cables and they are the correct connection as I expected for both the Ballast and the Bulb. I have yet to attempt the install but I have all the parts ready to go and will report back if I run into any issues using these cables. Once again the part number for these is DL3Z13A006D and I got them for about $25 bucks each (wish the $5 ebay ones would have been correct...).

Hopefully Santa brings me a Dremel so I can finish both this project and the Fusion Projector Fog retrofit.
 
#56 ·
Here's some comparison shots I just took, with one headlight complete.

Low Beams only View attachment 78174

High Beams
View attachment 78175


These were taken in the shade, on a bright and sunny day, against a white building. I'm pretty impressed by how noticeable the difference is, even in these conditions.
If you wouold, please repost with night shots against a neutral color wall(concrete). This will help those that want to see the difference
 
#59 · (Edited)
DIY / How-to – ST3 HID Bulb Swap: D8S -->D3S

Well Santa did bring me that Dremel I was hoping for so I tackled this project today. The plastic retainers on the bulbs were the toughest part by far but just need to take your time and they will eventually unlock. I followed muddy's instructions for swapping out the ballasts and bulbs and had no issues with getting the bulbs to fire up. The Ford F-150 ballast to bulb cables that I mentioned in a previous post worked fine albeit a bit tough to connect to the bulb due to the limited space in the housing. It took some time to get them connected but they do work.

Moral of this project is as has been stated previously in this thread: Buy the exact same model number as the ballasts that muddy shows in his procedure and try to get a complete set with ballast to bulb cables. Will attempt to get some night pics but I can already tell that they are much brighter. Will not have before/after shots though...

Now onto the Fusion Projector Foglight / Morimoto 3K HID retrofit! (Currently in process!):smile:

Once again thanks to Muddy for doing the legwork on all his lighting threads.
 
#62 ·
Thanks for the info here, it helped lead me to what I'm pretty sure are the correct ballasts for the swap.

So I ordered a pair of tesla ballasts that look like the correct 35w ones to swap in, and they come with cables that have a right angle on both ends.

Am I going to run into problems since the stock cable is straight on the ballast side? If so, is there a known part number (or model/year) to look for with the straight D3S connector for the ballast?

Thanks!
 
#84 · (Edited)
Assuming that part number is correct (35XT6-S-D3), you could do this upgrade for pretty close to half that and it would include bulbs, cables, and ballasts. $150-160 to add another ~800-1000 lumens plus adding the option of being able to get 66340CBI bulbs down the road doesn't sound too bad to me. I don't necessarily need the best of the best, just looking for an easy upgrade without having to drop too much cash or do a whole retrofit.

According to this site, that part number came stock on certain 2011-2012 Focus MK3's, I assuming since its a .co.uk domain that would apply to the Euro spec cars but I'm not positive about that.
I went with the exact ballasts in 92blackGT's post. 35xT5-2-D3/12v. I'm not sure if the Ballast number you listed will work, because the 35xT7-2-D3S/12v is proven to not be a ballast that is plug and play, so I would be leery on buying the ones you are looking at.

Modified my cable ends and bought lamps the cheapest I could find them. I went with x-treme visions. The lamps alone are 100 bucks each, couldn't find them any cheaper. D3S lamps are not cheap at all. Where are you finding them so cheap? Your ebay link only has one left for sale, lol. Used lamps I don't trust, they probably got their fingers all over them, lol.

Maybe it's worth looking at the drop-in projector swap. There's a link in this thread.
 
#71 ·
Muddy, I've been reading this thread for a few days now and doing some research. I saw where you asked Chad some questions on FordSTNation. Did you ever get a reply from him? I'm probably going to be going the route of D2S, but wanted you input before I pulled the trigger on anything.
 
#80 · (Edited)
Edit- nevermind
 
#81 ·
So I've been doing some more research and I've found a ballast that looks like it might work, it an Osram D3S 35W ballast with a two wire power connector. Does anyone know anything about this part number and if it will work or not?

35XT6-S-D3

This auction shows the factory two wire power plug - OEM OSRAM Xenon Ballast HID D3S Bulb Kit Tesla s Range Rover Evoque Jaguar XF | eBay

There are A LOT more options on ebay if that part number will work, there are numerous ballast/cable/bulbs sets for much cheaper than 35XT5-2-D3. For the prices I'm seeing I'm tempted to go ahead and just pick up a set to see if they will work or not.
 
#82 ·
Whoah buddy!!

The model number i posted which i referenced from 92gt, i forget what his screenname is, is the one you want. You can get shafted easily, make sure to get the right ballast. Also for the money this upgrade isnt that great. I dropped like 300 between lamps and ballast, better off saving up.some more money and going with TLF full replacements, or.just getting cheaper 55w hid.replacement parts. Im happy with my set-up, but it was pricey.