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Spark Plug Options

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324K views 620 replies 128 participants last post by  FWD_Fracas  
#1 · (Edited)
So, with the big turbos coming out, spark plug upgrades will be following very closely. When increasing the power by that much it is important to move to a slightly colder plug in order to keep cylinder temps down and reduce chances for pre-ignition/detonation.

The factory spark plug for the focus ST is an NGK plug PN: LTR6DI-8. If you break down the part number this is what you get.

LT (Long thread reach plug Tapered seat type 25mm) R (Resistor) 6 (heat range) D (Metal Shell Plating Spec Change) I (Laser Iridium) - 8 (0.8mm or .032")

The heat range for NGK plugs goes from 2 to 11 with 2 being the hottest and 11 being the coldest. This means that there are a couple options to go with for a colder spark plug.

The first is the NGK LTR7IX-11. This plug comes with a gap of 1.1mm or .044" and will require you to regap them to a range of .030" - .032". The IX at the end of the part number stands for High Performance Iridium.

The second option is the Denso ITV22.

I stands for iridium, and the letter T is the Thread Diameter x Hex size (14x16.0). The letter V represents the thread reach of 25mm with tapered seat. The heat range is designated by the number 22. This is equivalent to the NGK 7 and therefore one step colder than stock. The number 20 corresponds to the stock heat range or NGK 6.

We are going to be running the NGK LTR7IX-11's in our car with the GTX2867. We are not sure what gap we are going to run yet but will be experimenting with that a bit to see what works best.
 
#535 ·
So, this thread is huge and im having hard time finding the info im looking for. Im going to swap my stock plugs today for a set of Denso ITV22's. I have checked the gaps on the 4 new plugs and they read approximately .28-.29. What is the best gap i should go with? Also, when i pull my old ones is there anything in particular i should be looking for such as the gap on those or specific wear? Ive never done my own plugs nor have i done one so early in vehicle engine life. I have 12k miles and tuned stage 2.

Tappin on a phablet 4
 
#537 ·
Most are running the 22's @.28. They are looking at the stock plugs to see what they were gapped coming out of the factory. 28-32 is the range. @ 12 k not gonna see much wear on plugs.

I run my 22'2 @ .28 and have had them in 5k miles. A lot less soot on the pipe, a little better mpg.
That what I wanted to know. Thanks.

Tappin on a phablet 4
 
#544 ·
Disclaimer - I bought the car with 6,500 miles so I'm assuming the PO was stock tune.

I put 4,000 miles on and pulled the plugs for a total of 10,500 miles. They looked like this. To me this this looked a little lean (Too hot? Pre ignition?).

I used 87 octane on stock tune. Random gas. Not a care in the world. Ignorance was bliss.
 

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#545 ·
At 10,500 miles I got a Panda custom tune for the 91 octane available in my area. I've put 9,000 miles on since the tune and pulled the plugs tonight. They look like this. Pretty good color. Still the stock plugs as shown in the previous post (LTR6DI-8).

With this tune I have been religious about using top tier 91 octane with some 93 octane mixed in when I could get it.

Looks like quality gas makes a difference in keeping the plugs from being too hot. I pulled this to see if I should be going one step colder. Now I'm not so sure I need to.
 

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#552 ·
Was knocking on e30, was wondering what was wrong and found it was my NGK plugs not gapped correctly .034. Regapped them to .026-27 and the car seems so much better.
Interesting to see better numbers for what I assume is cyl1-2, and now just 'OK' numbers for 3-4 where they were stronger before...
 
#559 ·
I'm wondering if anyone else has broken the plastic tabs that hold the wire connector to the coil? I'm usually not that big of an idiot but it took three broken clips before I realized they need pressed in not lifted up. Anyone know if these clips are easily replaced? Do you think I'll have problems with them working their way back off without the plastic clip to retain them? I currently just wrapped them with electrical tape to secure them, no problems thus far.
 
#569 ·
Just pulled my #2 plug which is my cylinder that has the most knock. ITV22 on for 7k miles. Any thoughts? <img src="http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=93900"/><img src="http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=93901"/>
Yup looks normal
 
#573 ·
Thought I would share this so maybe it will help someone out. I pulled my denso's out to check and re gap them yesterday. All four plugs looked good but 2 of them has a black oily substance on the base of the plug and base of the threads, but the rest of the plug 3/4 of threads leading down to the electrode and electrode was dry and clean.

I was like wtf??? Gap the plugs and re install. Thought about it today and after discussing it with Hemicouple I figured it out....

If you spill oil when pouring it in the funnel and it runs all down the outside of the fill tube during an oil change .... Pretty sure the base of your 2 plugs closest to the fill tube will ... well you get the picture :smile:
 
#574 ·
Build date: 2014.5
Odo: 14645
Mods: fr tune, steeda fmic
Plugs: itv-24's

Plugs are 1-4 L-R

Plug two worries me a bit.





Can anyone offer some insight as to why #2 would have less of a "sooty" look around the edges and maybe some more peppering on the porcelain?

Datalogging via dash command and no issues detected and she runs like a top.
 
#576 ·
The plugs look fine to me. Can't see the electrode in the provided pic. How was the gap when you checked them?
Sorry I don't know why left that out, .028. The electrodes looked all the same and can really only be seen on plug 4 (barely). I didn't get a pic of the electrodes head on, doh!

I reset the KAM and went for a nice drive, things ran smoothly. Monitoring I didn't see any problems either. Compression is good through all 4.



 
#579 ·
Im very confused. I read the first few pages im not reading all of them. Would be nice if 1st post was updated with all info. Anyway im stage 3 stock turbo no intention of changing, cpe everything with fswerks cobb ap and frpp exhaust. Do I NEED to upgrade my plugs, or its not necessary? If i should what plugs do I use and what do I gap them to?

P.s. 2013 st with a oct 2012 build i believe if i remember correctly. 13k currently
 
#581 ·