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Did anyone have any resolve to this? I just replaced my clutch and master cylinder and now it's acting up. It's doing the same exact thing, 66% when pedal is up, 100% when it's down. I unplugged the firewall sensor and it shows zero now. I'm wondering if I somehow damaged it? Anyway, did anyone fix theirs?

Thanks
Did you even read the thread?
Post #44 shows what part you need and what sensor to connect.
 
Did you even read the thread?
Post #44 shows what part you need and what sensor to connect.
Yes. I read the whole entire thread, but you never updated on if it actually fixed it for you. I'm just confirming before I order the part in question. Did you replace the whole master again, or just pull the sensor off of the new one and place it in?
 
Yes, that is the part which will fix it, since we have the same exact symptoms.
66% pedal position.
Its a pain in the ass either way, you have to remove the battery and also the bolts from inside the car.
good luck.
 
Thanks for confirming that it fixed yours. already have the battery/box out of the car, so at least there's that. I was able to unclip it and remove it without removing the pedal assembly, so I'm hoping I can snap the new one into place. I really don't even see how I could've damaged my old one... I guess they must be sorta delicate?
 
Thanks for confirming that it fixed yours. already have the battery/box out of the car, so at least there's that. I was able to unclip it and remove it without removing the pedal assembly, so I'm hoping I can snap the new one into place. I really don't even see how I could've damaged my old one... I guess they must be sorta delicate?
they have a magnetic strip inside which I believe go bad over time.
 
So just wanted to follow up with an update, I swapped the hall effect sensor and it still gave the same code, however, I tested with the sensor hooked up to the master cylinder it came with and the fault went away. Meaning that there is an internal difference on the master cylinders with the sensors and the ones without. It's weird though, because they have a spot to hook up the hall sensor on both styles. Anyway, I guess I just have to swap the plunger assembly and apply it to the pedal mechanism. Oh well, hope this helps someone in the future. In other words, when buying one for a 15+, make sure that it comes with the sensor!
 
So just wanted to follow up with an update, I swapped the hall effect sensor and it still gave the same code, however, I tested with the sensor hooked up to the master cylinder it came with and the fault went away. Meaning that there is an internal difference on the master cylinders with the sensors and the ones without. It's weird though, because they have a spot to hook up the hall sensor on both styles. Anyway, I guess I just have to swap the plunger assembly and apply it to the pedal mechanism. Oh well, hope this helps someone in the future. In other words, when buying one for a 15+, make sure that it comes with the sensor!
The part # screenshot I posted before shows a master cylinder for an RS, 13, and 14 I believe did not come with this sensor.
You can buy the RS part and it comes with the sensor for sure. If buying for an ST they might ship 13 or 14 year cylinder
Image
 
The part # screenshot I posted before shows a master cylinder for an RS, 13, and 14 I believe did not come with this sensor.
You can buy the RS part and it comes with the sensor for sure. If buying for an ST they might ship 13 or 14 year cylinder
View attachment 404687
Yeah, that's the one I bought to get the new sensor. I just pulled the sensor off thinking I could swap just that, but it looks like I'll be having to pull the pedal assembly and swap the whole thing. The white pivot just unclips from the pedal assembly?
 
Yeah, that's the one I bought to get the new sensor. I just pulled the sensor off thinking I could swap just that, but it looks like I'll be having to pull the pedal assembly and swap the whole thing. The white pivot just unclips from the pedal assembly?
Yes it does just come off from the assembly but the whole cylinder has to be the new one for it to work not just the white clip.
Thats why I mentioned the bolts under the pedal to remove it..
 
Currently at Ford. Should be done soon. 🤷 Many people have told me calibrating sensors isn't a thing....so... we'll see. XD I'm very much hoping I won't have to redo the entire clutch pedal.
Let us know if they were able to do this, it would save a lot of labor.

or as usual making stuff outta their ass
 
So this is from Ford...though not sure why it says I think when they told me they could calibrate it. I'll have to eventually tear in to it again, but either A. Calibration is a thing, or B as I've said before. The employees here are on drugs. 🤣🤣🤣





Image
 
yea no wire chase needed, someone else made a new thread about this issue and has good diagrams.
 
 
I'm going through this in a shop right now on a 2018 ST. We've put in an aftermarket master that has the spot for the sensor which functions but the aftermarket master cyl doesn't have the internal part that communicates with the sensor. You can take a magnet to the OEM and the aftermarket and feel the difference. Tried a Luk, Dorman and Napa, all the same. Ordered an OEM that includes the sensor and it works!
 
I'm going through this in a shop right now on a 2018 ST. We've put in an aftermarket master that has the spot for the sensor which functions but the aftermarket master cyl doesn't have the internal part that communicates with the sensor. You can take a magnet to the OEM and the aftermarket and feel the difference. Tried a Luk, Dorman and Napa, all the same. Ordered an OEM that includes the sensor and it works!
I got an oem that was 2015+ and it didn't come with a sensor. I need to know exactly what you bought. And where from. Please bro. I need my car to not be retarded and thinks it's an automatic. 🤣🤣
 
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