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No look at the pictures in the thread. You disconnect the line from the solenoid to the blow off valve on top of the motor. Then you run line from the symposer delete to the other line you just removed from the solenoid. And then you cap off the solenoid. Look at the pictures so you get the right one.
I think I get it, so the soft line you remove from the solenoid gets replaced by the new 3/16 soft line and connects to the hard line down to the SSD then?
 

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I think I get it, so the soft line you remove from the solenoid gets replaced by the new 3/16 soft line and connects to the hard line down to the SSD then?

Not quite. you you disconnect the line from the solenoid and you connect a new line to the sound symposer delete and run that up on top of the motor you connect to the new line to the old line and cap off the solenoid.
 

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Just wanted to say thanks to OP for this write-up. My car has a Turbosmart Kompact plumb-back BPV (came on the car when I bought it, wouldn't have been MY first choice) and it was constantly bleeding boost back into the intake at partial throttle/low boost, making low speed driving around town ridiculously annoying. Now the annoyance is eliminated and the "blow off" when upshifting at peak boost is noticeably quieter as well. Also seems to pull a liiiiiitle bit harder, but that may just be placebo effect. One thing I'd like to note on the install, the 3/16 fuel line is a massive pain to get onto the hard line. I got mine on far enough where I could fit a zip tie behind the first barb and called it a day. Did a test drive afterwards with 15+ 2nd/3rd gear pulls and everything is still in one piece, so that's good. I know it's been mentioned in this thread that running a true vacuum source on a BPV is pointless, but I'd just like to point out that Turbosmart themselves recommend having their BPV hooked up to a true vacuum source: "Ensure that the vacuum / boost source is not shared and that the vacuum source is directly from the inlet manifold" (per their troubleshooting guide).
 

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If I have a steeda sound Symposer delete plate with no option to hook up a hose could I do this off of a MAPTAP? Or would you recommend getting a plate with adapter for hose?
 

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If I have a steeda sound Symposer delete plate with no option to hook up a hose could I do this off of a MAPTAP? Or would you recommend getting a plate with adapter for hose?
You can totally tap it since you already have one, no need to buy a new one. As long as you follow everything else from this thread you'll solve your problem. I had @nickbaldwin86 do this to mine when I started modding and it was so nice not having your problem with the constant blowing off of the BOV under no boost.
 

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You can totally tap it since you already have one, no need to buy a new one. As long as you follow everything else from this thread you'll solve your problem. I had @nickbaldwin86 do this to mine when I started modding and it was so nice not having your problem with the constant blowing off of the BOV under no boost.
What’s the easiest way to self tap into my plate? And what parts should I get from the automotive store?

Thanks for your input boss ?
 

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What’s the easiest way to self tap into my plate? And what parts should I get from the automotive store?

Thanks for your input boss ?
I would read the start of this thread because it has the hose line you want and everything in there. I'd imagine the easiest way is with a drill bit but I'm not sure what size you'll want since I didn't have to do that. You can always sell the one you have a buy a tapped one, whatever you think is easiest!
 

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Buy a tap and drill kit from the hardware store. You'll need an 1/8" pipe tap (NPT), along with a brass 1/8" Male x barbed fitting. I also used an 1/8" brass street elbow to ease the angle of the tubing going into the Symposer Delete
 
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Buy a tap and drill kit from the hardware store. You'll need an 1/8" pipe tap (NPT), along with a brass 1/8" Male x barbed fitting. I also used an 1/8" brass street elbow to ease the angle of the tubing going into the Symposer Delete
or just buy a new symposer for like $25... if you have to source a drill and tap and barb and have to remove your existing block off plate.... just buy one at this point and sell the other one or give it away for a six pack of beer to someone locally(of course while maintaining proper social distancing etiquette :p )
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
What’s the easiest way to self tap into my plate? And what parts should I get from the automotive store?

Thanks for your input boss ?
you can do what the above suggested and just buy one that works out of the box.

Or you can ship me yours and I can drill and tap it.
 

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Hi everyone,

Wanted to put together a proper "How to" for moving the blow off valve over to natural vacuum and removing it from the stock solenoid. Hopefully this helps anyone that is looking to make their Turbosmart or Boomba BOV blow off properly! This might requiring adjusting your BOV after the install to adjust it to your desired BOV preference.

Shout out to a fellow ST member for letting me use his car to complete this write up!

Parts required:
1 - 3/16" Vacuum cap (NAPA Auto is where I picked up a 5 pack for $3)
1 - 2 feet of fuel line 3/16" ID
1 - clamp
1 - Sound symposer delete kit with vacuum port or CPE
( cp-e™ Ford EcoBoost 1.6L & 2.0L Turbo MAPtap™ - cp-e™
cp-e™ BlockD™ Ford Focus ST Sound Symposer Delete - cp-e™
COBB Support )

Tool:
pair of pliers and cutters
8mm wrench to remove the sound symposer delete
maybe a 7/16" wrench to put on the barb

(Picture shows a barb we has that we picked up from ACE hardware because he didn't have the barb that came with his COBB SSD, for reference if you need one it is a 1/8NPT with a 3/16" barb part number is in the picture 4504130)

View attachment 352627

Next picture is just reference to show what it should all look like stock:

View attachment 352629

1) Unplug vacuum line going to the BOV from the solenoid

View attachment 352631

2) Using a vac cap, cap off the solenoid port that the line was removed from

View attachment 352639

3) Remove factory soft vacuum line from the hard line and replace it with the 2 feet of soft line and route to MAPTAP or sound delete vacuum source

View attachment 352641

4) last one is just to show the location of the sound delete and how the line routes to it's location.

View attachment 352643

Thanks
Nick
Great write up! Very well explained
 

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Hi everyone,

Wanted to put together a proper "How to" for moving the blow off valve over to natural vacuum and removing it from the stock solenoid. Hopefully this helps anyone that is looking to make their Turbosmart or Boomba BOV blow off properly! This might requiring adjusting your BOV after the install to adjust it to your desired BOV preference.

Shout out to a fellow ST member for letting me use his car to complete this write up!

Parts required:
1 - 3/16" Vacuum cap (NAPA Auto is where I picked up a 5 pack for $3)
1 - 2 feet of fuel line 3/16" ID
1 - clamp
1 - Sound symposer delete kit with vacuum port or CPE
( cp-e™ Ford EcoBoost 1.6L & 2.0L Turbo MAPtap™ - cp-e™
cp-e™ BlockD™ Ford Focus ST Sound Symposer Delete - cp-e™
COBB Support )

Tool:
pair of pliers and cutters
8mm wrench to remove the sound symposer delete
maybe a 7/16" wrench to put on the barb

(Picture shows a barb we has that we picked up from ACE hardware because he didn't have the barb that came with his COBB SSD, for reference if you need one it is a 1/8NPT with a 3/16" barb part number is in the picture 4504130)

View attachment 352627

Next picture is just reference to show what it should all look like stock:

View attachment 352629

1) Unplug vacuum line going to the BOV from the solenoid

View attachment 352631

2) Using a vac cap, cap off the solenoid port that the line was removed from

View attachment 352639

3) Remove factory soft vacuum line from the hard line and replace it with the 2 feet of soft line and route to MAPTAP or sound delete vacuum source

View attachment 352641

4) last one is just to show the location of the sound delete and how the line routes to it's location.

View attachment 352643

Thanks
Nick
Thank you for this. Going to McFadden Dales now! Ha
 

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388501


So let me understand this, bare with me

1. In the pic above I see the blue tube going to the top of the engine bay (red circle with blue line) (i assume that is the line that runs to the BOV in the wheel well??)
2. you cap the solenoid circled in yellow (which ran to the bov in the wheel well??)
3. if you have not already preform the symposer delete, but buy a delete kit that has a valve already or you will have to tap you kit?
4. basically you are taking the connection from the solenoid and moving to the symposer delete, and runs to wheel well bov vaccum hose ?

Thanks Guys!
 

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2016 ST2, Absolute Black, Turbosmart BPV, PCV-OCC, Innovative RMM, JBR SS Arm, 245/40R18
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View attachment 388501

So let me understand this, bare with me

1. In the pic above I see the blue tube going to the top of the engine bay (red circle with blue line) (i assume that is the line that runs to the BOV in the wheel well??)
2. you cap the solenoid circled in yellow (which ran to the bov in the wheel well??)
3. if you have not already preform the symposer delete, but buy a delete kit that has a valve already or you will have to tap you kit?
4. basically you are taking the connection from the solenoid and moving to the symposer delete, and runs to wheel well bov vaccum hose ?

Thanks Guys!
That looks like how I'm running mine.

I think the plastic tube at back of valve cover is at a slightly different spot for different years.
 
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