Try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. The key here is something probably happened during the jump start.

 

Well it's currently disconnected. Will be all night.

Sent from another garage.

 

All the power for the door modules comes from the RBJB (rear battery junction box)

You need to get a meter and start looking there. What year is your ST?

 

2013.

Sent from another garage.

 

Agree, try the "turn it off and on again" by disconnecting, and putting a charger on the battery if you can

 

The Massive rear strut bar uses a aluminum spacer the requires you to move the main harness out of its way to install. I would suggest that you check that area for damage to the wiring.

 

The Massive rear strut bar uses a aluminum spacer the requires you to move the main harness out of its way to install. I would suggest that you check that area for damage to the wiring.

View attachment 390253 View attachment 390254 View attachment 390255 View attachment 390256 View attachment 390257 View attachment 390258

I stated I checked the harness for damage. Even unwrapped it to check though the bundlem

Sent from another garage.

 

Not that it would be the same, but just in case: I've reflashed the tune (COBB AP) several times and twice I had an issue where the auto-up/down function stopped on 1 or more of the windows... Turning the car off and back on fixed it once. The 2nd time I had ultimately uninstalled and reinstalled the tune, then cycled power again before it would work.

I'm only adding this for an option that doesn't involve the physical connections (since it seems that was covered pretty well already!). Something like a self-calibration check that got a checksum error or something equally pita with the electronics failed to fully enable. If you're hitting buttons for the windows & nothing happens or changes in the next start up then it might be worth getting a new battery (which you should do anyways ).

I hope it works out!

 

Not that it would be the same, but just in case: I've reflashed the tune (COBB AP) several times and twice I had an issue where the auto-up/down function stopped on 1 or more of the windows... Turning the car off and back on fixed it once. The 2nd time I had ultimately uninstalled and reinstalled the tune, then cycled power again before it would work.

I'm only adding this for an option that doesn't involve the physical connections (since it seems that was covered pretty well already!). Something like a self-calibration check that got a checksum error or something equally pita with the electronics failed to fully enable. If you're hitting buttons for the windows & nothing happens or changes in the next start up then it might be worth getting a new battery (which you should do anyways ).

I hope it works out!

Flashing back to stock didn't work. Also the battery I have is a light weight battery. So it does drain kinda quick. With having the doors open for an extended period of time without unhooking the battery was enough to drop the charge so the car wouldn't start.

Sent from another garage.

 

Another piece of info I just found. I can open and close the driver side window with my fob (global open/close enabled).

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Have you gone through the fuses? I did a rear strut bar install and forgot to disconnect the battery. With the jumble of wires it would be pretty easy to short to ground on the chassis or a random bolt so I ended up disconnecting it 1/2 way through the install.

Since SSgtjrobertson was kind enough to post up all of the wiring/electronics, it makes it easy to check if something tapped out/blew. Looks like F1 - F7 in the RJB would be a good place to start.

If nothing there, I could only start looking for voltage along the lines. Unfortunately I couldn't tell you what voltage the window motors use... Probably 12V if I'm a good guesser

 

Have you gone through the fuses? I did a rear strut bar install and forgot to disconnect the battery. With the jumble of wires it would be pretty easy to short to ground on the chassis or a random bolt so I ended up disconnecting it 1/2 way through the install.

Since SSgtjrobertson was kind enough to post up all of the wiring/electronics, it makes it easy to check if something tapped out/blew. Looks like F1 - F7 in the RJB would be a good place to start.

If nothing there, I could only start looking for voltage along the lines. Unfortunately I couldn't tell you what voltage the window motors use... Probably 12V if I'm a good guesser

Yeah already tested the fuses. The door control fuses are in the hatch. All of them have power on both sides. As for the wires I did unwrap the bundle where the bar installs and can't find any signs of broken or damage wires. No squished wire jackets or nicks.

Sent from another garage.

 

My next step is to borrow the driver side switches from a friend's st. They pop out super easy.

Sent from another garage.

 

My next step is to borrow the driver side switches from a friend's st. They pop out super easy.

Sent from another garage.

That's a good option then. Pretty fishy issue, now that you've confirmed the only things that I can think of to check... Sorry I can't be of more help!

You should borrow your buddies battery while you're at it. That's one of those things that will eat at me until it's either tried or the issue gets fixed and proves that wasn't it, lol.

 

Yeah, that sucks. Maybe a buddy or local has one?

 

Talking with a local friend. I'm going to snag his switch today. If that doesn't work I ordered one through my part time job which will be here tomorrow. If it doesn't work I'm not out anything.

Sent from another garage.

 

Welp door switch is good. [emoji53]

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Lmfao. You need an adult.

 

You didn't disturb a ground or something did you? Take one off and move it?

 

Yeah not sure.

Sent from another garage.

 

So what I know so far.

Global open/close works.
Door switch tested good.
Fuses in hatch panel tested good and have power.
Wires appear to be undamaged. However this may not be the case.
Nothing appears to be unhooked except for the amp and hatch interiors lights on both sides.

Sent from another garage.

 

Oh and if anyone is curious this is what the harness looked liked before I unwrapped it. This is after the issue started.

Sent from another garage.

 

Welp the car is most likely going to Ford. I've been through the harness sever times. Nothing. Far as I can tell is an wire is broken in the jacket. [emoji24]

Sent from another garage.

 

Oh geez! The Stealership!!!

 

I'm a bit baffled, but to undo that I'd have to ohm out ever single wire in that harness if there isn't anything else... Which is either what the tech will have to do, or just replace it (if it's more easy & cost effective).

So your source when using the key fob works, thus the window & doorlock modules work as intended. However, the button presses from the car door panel are not being recognized; Even though You've verified that the door panel controls all function correctly....

So the something in-between the physical buttons and the door/window is what needs to be tracked down... This is where the schematics SsgtJRobinson are super useful, but like Duece said: if only you were closer so I could help you knock stuff off the checklist.

The dealership will spend way too long with you car, and you will spend way too much money... I hope you can avoid that, if possible.

 

Have you tried flashing the bcm back to factory with Forscan to disable the global windows to see if it made a difference? I had something similar happen to me and my ESC would not turn off with the switch, flashed the ipc back to default settings and it started working. Somehow something in there got corrupted and caused an issue.

 

Nope.

Sent from another garage.

 

New development. Interior lights also don't work. [emoji53]

Sent from another garage.

 

Wtf is going on over there?

 

I have a test light I can send you if you want. It hooks to the battery and it will allow you to send +12v or ground from the probe to test functionality.

 

So I broke a light connector when removing the back panels. Must have shorted and blown the fuse. Damn I feel dumb now. [emoji28]

Sent from another garage.

 

The culprit. I'll throw a fuse in in a bit and test. Just got to work.

Sent from another garage.

 

What happened to Mr "I CHECKED ALL THE FUSES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

🤪 🤪 🤪 🤪

This is a great outcome. Congrats!!

 

Confirmed. I'm dumb and it was a fuse. [emoji3517]

Sent from another garage.

 

Eh, been there lol

 

Least you figured it out.
Nice work

 

^^^^^^This guy is one of my regular customers.^^^^^^I see him a couple of times a week.
That's all that I have.
Glad it was an easy fix.

 

But is he the most interesting man in the world IRL?

Glad you got it sorted! Its amazing how intertwined these systems all are anymore.

 

Glad you sorted that out! I came back to check on your status, but definitely best type of problem to have (minus the time banging your head on the door screaming WTF?!, lol).

 

Not really. Nice guy, but kind of a bonehead