SPARK PLUGS!!!! Yes read this!!!!!!!!!!!@@@@@
In order to limit the number of Spark plug threads, and to help prevent people from breaking off plugs and such, I have decided to make this thread.
Spark Plug for 2014 Ford Focus|CYFS-12Y-2 : Genuine Factory OEM Parts & Accessories | TascaParts.com
These are our OEM plugs. They are Iridium. They are normally horribly gapped from the factory. All over the place. Like .028 to .035 and crazier at times, Ford specifies them to have a gap of .027-.031" from the factory..
ALL SPARK PLUG GAPS WILL WIDEN WITH USE. Our cars seem to be pretty hard on the plugs and it is suggested to check your gap about every other oil change if you drive it hard.
People want to know what to gap their plugs at. This decision is really up to the Tuner you choose. They have a range they like to work with, so follow their suggestion.
So it's time to change your plugs and you want to go a step colder?
Again, this is something based on a bunch of factors, and should be confirmed with your tuner. Some like it, some don't.
There are two common brands to choose from. Denso and NGK.
The Denso come gapped much closer to the normal tuner gap range .025-.028" so there is less bending of the ground strap to achieve the desired results. They are more expensive though, and some people have reported problems with their quality here and there.
NGK LTR7IX-11 one step colder come gapped much larger, so they need quite a bit of movement to get in the tuner range .025-.028". The Stock heat range come at a closer gapping. They are cheaper in price though, and people in general seem to be quite content with them.
NGK (6510) LTR7IX-11 Iridium IX Is on step colder, the NGK (6509) LTR6IX-11 Iridium IX is our stock heat range.
SCREW THE 6510 THOUGH!
NGK RUTHENIUMS 95605, ONE STEP COLDER, COME GAPPED .032", STOCK HEAT RANGE FOR THE 2.7TT, IF USING ROCK AUTO, SHOP UNDER 2015 FORD EDGE SPORT 2.7TT!!!
Denso ITV-22 is one step colder, Denso ITV-20 is our factory heat range. FRPP kits come with two step colder for whatever reason, ITV-24's.
There may be some odd people building some crazy high HP competitive cars, that may need to go even colder, these plugs exist, but again, your tuner will be able to discuss this option with you.
You bought the plugs, you gapped them PROPERLY AND PRECISELY (feeler gauges or gap tool, do it right people!!!), now its time to install.
Make sure the spark plug seating area is clean of debris BEFORE you pull the existing plugs out. Put on your safety glasses/face shield and blow them out with compressed air.
You do not want debris in your combustion chambers, big no -no.
Pull the existing plugs, You should be using a real spark plug socket when working with spark plugs. Also be aware the head is aluminum, a soft metal. SO if you encounter a ton of resistance, try modest amount of penetrating oil, keep in mind that it will potentially make it's way into the combustion chamber, so dont put a whole can of it in there, lol. Use a breaker bar for leverage if necessary. If you snap a plug you will be left stranded. You will have the potential of introduces hard ceramic into your cylinder (super bad!! it will shred metal) or even damaging/stripping out the threads on your cylinder head. You will have to inspect the crap out of the entire area to prevent further damage once you extract the plug.
I have not really had any issue changing plugs on ST's. Nothing compared to a '09 Expedition with their retarded plug design, scariest plug removal ever. Creaking the whole time, never letting up. I think I have put less torque on motor mounts than what it took to pull those bad boys.
Now that the plugs are out, double check for debris or "gunk". Carefully clean the thread sealing surface if you see anything. Just take precaution not to push the stuff into the cylinder through the hole left by the plug.
Take your time here. Don't rush and **** something up.
Here's what the makers of your plugs have to say...
Keep in mind that torque specs are drastically affected by the condition of the threads and seating area. Gunked up threads will cause you to hit a torque value before the plug is fully seated. Just a heads up.
I suggest and prefer the non torque wrench approach. In which the plug is installed by hand till it touches the seating surface, then and additional percentage of a turn or turns is added. This procedure is laid out below by both manufacturers as an alternative to torque specs.
Torque specs are only good for CLEAN threads. Odds are that your threads are not perfectly clean, unless you have a fresh motor. So keep this in mind when you choose how to tighten your plugs.
Spark Plug Installation | DENSO Auto Parts
Spark Plug Installation | NGK Spark Plugs
Always use the Manufacturer's installation procedures. Who knows their product better than the people that did all the R+D to make it.
Did somebody say anti-seize?
DENSO SPARK PLUGS
Denso Says no. They are worried about over-torquing.
5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs | NGK Spark Plugs
NGK say no as well. They have a antiseize plating on their plugs already.
If you have had a bad experience or something, and want to use it anyway, just be smart about it.
Apply a reasonable amount, and keep it out of the electrode area, it will ruin the plug.
Drop your torque down. Now that you have added a lubricant, torque values will be affected. Go lighter on the plug.
Make sure the compound you are using is both rated for the metals involved, and rated for the temperature of a cylinder head. There are many different specs on "anti-seize" so read some lables, don't just assume they are all a blanket acceptable product.
Your plugs are in.
Put a little di-electric grease on the coil packs, seat them properly, carefully tighten the 8mm bolt that holds them down. Connect the wires and put the rest back together.
The torque spec is 70 inch/lbs. In case you were wondering. I suggest actually torquing them if you are new to wrenching or prone to snapping/breaking things. Last thing you would want is a floating coil pack. Make sure you are using a properly calibrated torque wrench in it's operating spectrum. The rest of us will just use german torque figures, "GoodenTite".
Cross your fingers, hold your breath, try and start your car, lmao.
All good. Congrats, crack a fresh beer if you havn't ran out already.
Here is stratifieds article on this subject. They always have great literature, I suggest you give it a gander since you obviously took the time to read this.
Blog : Spark Plug Tech : Stratified Automotive Controls
In order to limit the number of Spark plug threads, and to help prevent people from breaking off plugs and such, I have decided to make this thread.
Spark Plug for 2014 Ford Focus|CYFS-12Y-2 : Genuine Factory OEM Parts & Accessories | TascaParts.com
These are our OEM plugs. They are Iridium. They are normally horribly gapped from the factory. All over the place. Like .028 to .035 and crazier at times, Ford specifies them to have a gap of .027-.031" from the factory..
ALL SPARK PLUG GAPS WILL WIDEN WITH USE. Our cars seem to be pretty hard on the plugs and it is suggested to check your gap about every other oil change if you drive it hard.
People want to know what to gap their plugs at. This decision is really up to the Tuner you choose. They have a range they like to work with, so follow their suggestion.
So it's time to change your plugs and you want to go a step colder?
Again, this is something based on a bunch of factors, and should be confirmed with your tuner. Some like it, some don't.
There are two common brands to choose from. Denso and NGK.
The Denso come gapped much closer to the normal tuner gap range .025-.028" so there is less bending of the ground strap to achieve the desired results. They are more expensive though, and some people have reported problems with their quality here and there.
NGK LTR7IX-11 one step colder come gapped much larger, so they need quite a bit of movement to get in the tuner range .025-.028". The Stock heat range come at a closer gapping. They are cheaper in price though, and people in general seem to be quite content with them.
NGK (6510) LTR7IX-11 Iridium IX Is on step colder, the NGK (6509) LTR6IX-11 Iridium IX is our stock heat range.
SCREW THE 6510 THOUGH!
NGK RUTHENIUMS 95605, ONE STEP COLDER, COME GAPPED .032", STOCK HEAT RANGE FOR THE 2.7TT, IF USING ROCK AUTO, SHOP UNDER 2015 FORD EDGE SPORT 2.7TT!!!
Denso ITV-22 is one step colder, Denso ITV-20 is our factory heat range. FRPP kits come with two step colder for whatever reason, ITV-24's.
There may be some odd people building some crazy high HP competitive cars, that may need to go even colder, these plugs exist, but again, your tuner will be able to discuss this option with you.
You bought the plugs, you gapped them PROPERLY AND PRECISELY (feeler gauges or gap tool, do it right people!!!), now its time to install.
Make sure the spark plug seating area is clean of debris BEFORE you pull the existing plugs out. Put on your safety glasses/face shield and blow them out with compressed air.
You do not want debris in your combustion chambers, big no -no.
Pull the existing plugs, You should be using a real spark plug socket when working with spark plugs. Also be aware the head is aluminum, a soft metal. SO if you encounter a ton of resistance, try modest amount of penetrating oil, keep in mind that it will potentially make it's way into the combustion chamber, so dont put a whole can of it in there, lol. Use a breaker bar for leverage if necessary. If you snap a plug you will be left stranded. You will have the potential of introduces hard ceramic into your cylinder (super bad!! it will shred metal) or even damaging/stripping out the threads on your cylinder head. You will have to inspect the crap out of the entire area to prevent further damage once you extract the plug.
I have not really had any issue changing plugs on ST's. Nothing compared to a '09 Expedition with their retarded plug design, scariest plug removal ever. Creaking the whole time, never letting up. I think I have put less torque on motor mounts than what it took to pull those bad boys.
Now that the plugs are out, double check for debris or "gunk". Carefully clean the thread sealing surface if you see anything. Just take precaution not to push the stuff into the cylinder through the hole left by the plug.
Take your time here. Don't rush and **** something up.
Here's what the makers of your plugs have to say...
Keep in mind that torque specs are drastically affected by the condition of the threads and seating area. Gunked up threads will cause you to hit a torque value before the plug is fully seated. Just a heads up.
I suggest and prefer the non torque wrench approach. In which the plug is installed by hand till it touches the seating surface, then and additional percentage of a turn or turns is added. This procedure is laid out below by both manufacturers as an alternative to torque specs.
Torque specs are only good for CLEAN threads. Odds are that your threads are not perfectly clean, unless you have a fresh motor. So keep this in mind when you choose how to tighten your plugs.
Spark Plug Installation | DENSO Auto Parts
Spark Plug Installation | NGK Spark Plugs
Always use the Manufacturer's installation procedures. Who knows their product better than the people that did all the R+D to make it.
Did somebody say anti-seize?
DENSO SPARK PLUGS
Denso Says no. They are worried about over-torquing.
5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs | NGK Spark Plugs
NGK say no as well. They have a antiseize plating on their plugs already.
If you have had a bad experience or something, and want to use it anyway, just be smart about it.
Apply a reasonable amount, and keep it out of the electrode area, it will ruin the plug.
Drop your torque down. Now that you have added a lubricant, torque values will be affected. Go lighter on the plug.
Make sure the compound you are using is both rated for the metals involved, and rated for the temperature of a cylinder head. There are many different specs on "anti-seize" so read some lables, don't just assume they are all a blanket acceptable product.
Your plugs are in.
Put a little di-electric grease on the coil packs, seat them properly, carefully tighten the 8mm bolt that holds them down. Connect the wires and put the rest back together.
The torque spec is 70 inch/lbs. In case you were wondering. I suggest actually torquing them if you are new to wrenching or prone to snapping/breaking things. Last thing you would want is a floating coil pack. Make sure you are using a properly calibrated torque wrench in it's operating spectrum. The rest of us will just use german torque figures, "GoodenTite".
Cross your fingers, hold your breath, try and start your car, lmao.
All good. Congrats, crack a fresh beer if you havn't ran out already.
Here is stratifieds article on this subject. They always have great literature, I suggest you give it a gander since you obviously took the time to read this.
Blog : Spark Plug Tech : Stratified Automotive Controls
