[ZX3ST]

I can't comment on the shelf life, but isn't storing things like methanol and propane inside illegal? For example, you're not supposed to store the propane tanks for your gas BBQ grill inside.

 

[emmett]

Firstly, its my house I will do as I please. But no the state of California mandates that the maximum amount of methanol one person can store is 120gallons.

 

[ZX3ST]

I wasn't trying to tell you what to do, just wanted to bring it up in case you hadn't thought about it. Can't see it from my house...

In Missouri you're not allowed to store fuel in a dwelling, outbuildings are OK. I would think CA would be at least as strict. I would imagine the meth would be the first thing the fire dept should know about if you were to have a fire.

 

[Richard@Aquamist]

My hfs2 gauge only shows red and yellow. Are some configured green/yellow and some red/yellow? I was worried I never saw green.

Also, there seemed to be some debate as to what exactly 70/30 idc/boost means. Does that mean the methanol sprays when injectors are running ar 70% capacity and/or it's seeing 30% target boost? Just wanted to ask to clarify for me and some others.

Was there any special configuration needed for the jumpers or trimmers?

First impressions are great with +4 timikg across the board. It must also be pulling fuel because my mpgs shot way up. The power is nice and smooth now. I like.

The HFS2 comes with two colour options, not user selectable. Yours is red/yellow. The other is Green/yellow. Yellow is used as a "warning".

70/30 means the flow is more biased towards fuel flow compared to boost. The reason for introducing this is to offset the loss of low due to manifold pressure. This is because the aquamist's line pressure is not adhered to manifold pressure change like a conventional fuel injection system.

The HFS2 is designed for the DD application with minimal user adjustment. Work straight from box. Your results showed good timing gain and fuel trim (MPG gain). It can however be adjusted later on for more power as it tracks boost and fuel flow linearly. At present, no need to alter any jumper links.

 

[lolibater]

The HFS2 comes with two colour options, not user selectable. Yours is red/yellow. The other is Green/yellow. Yellow is used as a "warning".

70/30 means the flow is more biased towards fuel flow compared to boost. The reason for introducing this is to offset the loss of low due to manifold pressure. This is because the aquamist's line pressure is not adhered to manifold pressure change like a conventional fuel injection system.

The HFS2 is designed for the DD application with minimal user adjustment. Work straight from box. Your results showed good timing gain and fuel trim (MPG gain). It can however be adjusted later on for more power as it tracks boost and fuel flow linearly. At present, no need to alter any jumper links.

Thanks for the info. Someone was trying hard to convince me that 70/30 IDC/MAP meant that meth would only spray when the injectors were working at 70+% capacity and/or 30+% boost is being made. The install was straightforward, so thank you for all the help. All of the knock I previously had (and thought was false) is gone, and I think the only timing pull that occurs is from my cold side IC pipe hitting the A/C. Very happy Now to see just how fast it's using up the methanol.

 

[Richard@Aquamist]

Thanks for the info. Someone was trying hard to convince me that 70/30 IDC/MAP meant that meth would only spray when the injectors were working at 70+% capacity and/or 30+% boost is being made. The install was straightforward, so thank you for all the help. All of the knock I previously had (and thought was false) is gone, and I think the only timing pull that occurs is from my cold side IC pipe hitting the A/C. Very happy Now to see just how fast it's using up the methanol.

Are you still on factory settng?

You can play around with the "THRES" to determine the starting point if your meth consumption is too much. But do some logs just in case the engine becomes an alcoholic.

 

[lolibater]

Are you still on factory settng?

You can play around with the "THRES" to determine the starting point if your meth consumption is too much. But do some logs just in case the engine becomes an alcoholic.

I'll monitor the usage of the 2 gallons I put in there and will let you know if it seems to be out of the ordinary. I have to adjust a few hard parts and do some datalogs for my tuner anyways; is there anything I should tell them to look for?

 

[lolibater]

I just now noticed that I can't seem to get the air out of the lines. I followed these instructions:

2. Priming and purging of the system:

a. Fill the tank with water half way up.

b. Disconnect the 6mm hose from the FAV assembly
and put the hose into a container securely.

c. Ignition switch in pre-crank position and gauge is
switched on.Uncover the controller and pull out
the “FAV” jumper (disabling the FAV) and put it to
the link marked “SYS”. The pump should power up
and water should come out of the 6mm hose
within a few seconds, Let it run for 10-20 seconds
so that trapped air and debris are purged.

d. Listen to the pump during the priming period; it
should go very quiet after completion of the purging
procedure. If not, repeat step “c”.

e. Upon successful completion of the above, reinstate
the FAV jumper and 6mm hose into the FAV assembly.

Is there anything I might be doing wrong? Since it's already installed, I imagine I just disconnect the line feeding the FAV and have it spray into a bucket until the air bubbles are out, but when reattaching the feed line to the FAV it always seems to pick up more air. Is the trick just to unplug the feed line from the FAV, enable the SYS jumper until the feed line is pumping out liquid with no air and then plug it back into the FAV as fast as possible? Not sure at what point I should be removing the jumper from SYS. I seem to be reading a few accounts of people saying that the air will work it's way out, but thought I'd check with you directly.

 

[Richard@Aquamist]

I just now noticed that I can't seem to get the air out of the lines. I followed these instructions:

2. Priming and purging of the system:

a. Fill the tank with water half way up.

b. Disconnect the 6mm hose from the FAV assembly
and put the hose into a container securely.

c. Ignition switch in pre-crank position and gauge is
switched on.Uncover the controller and pull out
the “FAV” jumper (disabling the FAV) and put it to
the link marked “SYS”. The pump should power up
and water should come out of the 6mm hose
within a few seconds, Let it run for 10-20 seconds
so that trapped air and debris are purged.

d. Listen to the pump during the priming period; it
should go very quiet after completion of the purging
procedure. If not, repeat step “c”.

e. Upon successful completion of the above, reinstate
the FAV jumper and 6mm hose into the FAV assembly.

Is there anything I might be doing wrong? Since it's already installed, I imagine I just disconnect the line feeding the FAV and have it spray into a bucket until the air bubbles are out, but when reattaching the feed line to the FAV it always seems to pick up more air. Is the trick just to unplug the feed line from the FAV, enable the SYS jumper until the feed line is pumping out liquid with no air and then plug it back into the FAV as fast as possible? Not sure at what point I should be removing the jumper from SYS. I seem to be reading a few accounts of people saying that the air will work it's way out, but thought I'd check with you directly.

Can you post a picture of your tank fitting, pump in and pump out area.

 

[lolibater]

Can you post a picture of your tank fitting, pump in and pump out area.

Sure thing. I'll shoot some pictures after work.

 

[Richard@Aquamist]

Sure thing. I'll shoot some pictures after work.

Thank you.

 

[Richard@Aquamist]

I just now noticed that I can't seem to get the air out of the lines. I followed these instructions:

Is there anything I might be doing wrong? Since it's already installed, I imagine I just disconnect the line feeding the FAV and have it spray into a bucket until the air bubbles are out, but when reattaching the feed line to the FAV it always seems to pick up more air. Is the trick just to unplug the feed line from the FAV, enable the SYS jumper until the feed line is pumping out liquid with no air and then plug it back into the FAV as fast as possible? Not sure at what point I should be removing the jumper from SYS. I seem to be reading a few accounts of people saying that the air will work it's way out, but thought I'd check with you directly.

Air in the line is always caused by leaky fittings on the inlet side of the pump. Leaky fittings on the pressure side of the pump is clearly visible.

So I asked you to post a few pictures of those areas. I have a few questions:

Are you using fittings only from aquamist from the tank onwards?

 

[lolibater]

Air in the line is always caused by leaky fittings on the inlet side of the pump. Leaky fittings on the pressure side of the pump is clearly visible.

So I asked you to post a few pictures of those areas. I have a few questions:

Are you using fittings only from aquamist from the tank onwards?

Yep pictures will be here shortly. Got held up at work. Aquamist hardware for everything.

 

[lolibater]

Found the leak! Small but I guess it was enough to prevent flow. It was right where the supply line goes into the FAV. Everything is working great now. I finished up at 11pm last night, so I didn't get a chance to take pics, but I will post them here soon, I promise.

 

[Richard@Aquamist]

100% brilliant. Do post a few install picture when you have some time.

 

[lolibater]

Some teaser pics for you.

Edit: What all would I need to purchase in the future to have a flow based failsafe w/ dash gauge? I was just extended some free tuning at a local shop and would like to plan that around having the failsafe installed already.

 

[Richard@Aquamist]

Some teaser pics for you.

Edit: What all would I need to purchase in the future to have a flow based failsafe w/ dash gauge? I was just extended some free tuning at a local shop and would like to plan that around having the failsafe installed already.

Very neat install, thank you.

Additional parts needed for failsafe:
1. Dash gauge
2. Flow sensor tube
3. Flow sensor cable.

 

[lolibater]

Very neat install, thank you.

Additional parts needed for failsafe:
1. Dash gauge
2. Flow sensor tube
3. Flow sensor cable.

Thanks for that. I'm working on my daily beater car this week, so when I get around to changing the oil on the ST, I'll make sure to get all the engine bay shots.

 

[kwiksilvr]

Some teaser pics for you.

Edit: What all would I need to purchase in the future to have a flow based failsafe w/ dash gauge? I was just extended some free tuning at a local shop and would like to plan that around having the failsafe installed already.

View attachment 88640

View attachment 88641

Lolibator,

You have incorrectly installed that tank... The little area in the front left has a sump in it with a baffle. When you accelerate you want the fluid going back into that and being trapped around a pickup.

You might want to do a 180 on it... Everytime you hit the brake with less than 2/3 full you will starve the pickup. if you flip it around you can get down to about 10% before you start starving the pickup.

 

[lolibater]

Lolibator,

You have incorrectly installed that tank... The little area in the front left has a sump in it with a baffle. When you accelerate you want the fluid going back into that and being trapped around a pickup.

You might want to do a 180 on it... Everytime you hit the brake with less than 2/3 full you will starve the pickup. if you flip it around you can get down to about 10% before you start starving the pickup.

Thanks for the info. I'll see how long it takes to show low fluid and will assess from there I guess. If I have air in the lines I'll know what happened. I have it a good flogging today and am very pleased with how it's working.