Heres a rough idea of where stuff
goes. Look up ATP turbo install and the instructions should be very similar. Most people use the CJ pony parts 2867 video.

 

Heres a rough idea of where stuff
goes. Look up ATP turbo install and the instructions should be very similar. Most people use the CJ pony parts 2867 video. View attachment 429096

You small print sum'B!!!

Lol

 

The 90 with the swivel is the oil feed from the top right back of the engine, it attaches to the bottom right part iirc that threads into the block.

 

I apologize, edited it in paint posted it, and then said **** it lol.

 

I see there's now a spacer for the oil return at the block....🙄

 

So next dumb question:

How do I know which hole on the block is for coolant and oil? I'm guessing that the holes for coolant are not the same size as the holes for oil. Is that correct?

... on a side note, once I got out of the heat and ate food I realized I was trying to put fittings in holes that don't actually exist (I'm talking about the block). 🤣

 

My wife hates when I do that. https://www.atpturbo.com/root/help/pdf/install/Focus_ST_ATP_TurboUpgrade_Install.pdf Refer to these instructions, post back if they are not clear.

 

Alrighty. Day two annnnnnndddddd ... it's still not done. lol

BUT I'm pretty damn close. Hit a few snags:

1. Thsoe banjo bolts I couldn't figure out what they belonged to belong to the Tial EWG. What I can't figure out is what holes do I plug on it? I've got blockers on it blocking two of, IIRC, five of the 'Air" holes.

2. Didn't realize I'd need a different coupler to mate the Cobb intake I have to the G25. Even after cutting things down, it's a bit off. Can someone link me a coupler to use?

3. Washers against the block? I don't have a single washer in my kit to put between the block and the connectors for hoses. Is that normal? When I first got things, I took photos so I know I didn't lost anything.

4. I emailed Edge some questions and JP emailed me back in a few hours. That's awesome. Not a snag ... just saying that's incredible. I didn't even get the turbo from them and they answered not just my first question but they read my entire email and answered all my questions (something I haven't had much luck with with another company).

Thanks again, y'all. Even with this taking me forever, it HAS been a little fun. I'm nervous as **** I missed something and everything is going to explode and catch on fire but other than that, it hasn't been too bad. Who knows, maybe tomorrow I'll even be driving the thing with a new, big turbo on it.

 

How is it going so far? I installed the same turbo a little over 3 years ago. I can't remember all the details, but I used some youtube videos, and the thread that edgeautosport posted here.

 

I did the same thing. I also emailed Edge to ask them a few things and JP got back to me super quick (quicker than my actual tuner who ignored me for nine days until I posted up here).

It's in! The tune is on. I drove it. I don't think there's any leaks.

I'm a little paranoid about the heat coming off the EWG.

I wrapped all the cables and such in heat shield wrap but still a little nervous.

What intake do you have? What did you use to mate the turbo to the intake?

I have the Cobb and even after cutting down the I take, I still can't get it to mate properly to the turbo.

For now, I have a ghetto rig for it but it's crap and I need to get something proper on there.

 

Can you see the pictures in the ATP directions? I feel like they are pretty specific if you match stuff up visually. Your kit varies where you have a spacer for the oil drain so the factory drain tube will fit. The two nipples do go to the EWG, one on the top and one on the side. Hook up vacuum to the side one and take it to your solenoid. The top is a vent. Dont crank the AN fittings really tight. Just get them fairly tight and check for leaks. Tighten them more if you notice a leak. Alot of people over torque those.

 

I think the EWG is what I'm stuck on.

I think there's four air ports on the Tial MVS, right?

The top hole is open as Alex said on a post here that it should be open to allow it to vent properly. I could stick a banjo bolt on it if that makes more sense.

There's three more "Air" ports. Maybe there's five more?

I stuck a banjo bolt on the driver-side facing port and then there's two more that are just open.

I feel like these should be plugged but my kit didn't come with enough to plug them all so I plugged the air that's facing toward the driver-side headlight and the one opposite of that facing the rear passenger-side taillight.

I have a wastegate solenoid CEL also so know something is funky with my setup. I deleted the solenoid on top of the entire ... none of the holes are plugged so not sure if they need to be.

The ones on the turbo solenoid I wired one directly to the EWG, another to the charge port, and another to the intake of the turbo.

I also have a ghetto coupler setup at the moment so there's still some stuff to fix but I feel pretty good about all of it. I don't think there's any exhaust leaks or anything going on. I could be totally wrong but the test drive home was good and the sounds of that high pitched whine bring joy.

 

These should help. As for the second link and picture, don't plug the top ports on the wastegate. Leave them open to vent. you might be confusing the water cooling ports for air ports. You can leave them open or plug them.

Tial MV Series Tech Info | Ford Focus ST Forum

External Wastegate Plumbing Schematic | Ford Focus ST Forum

 

That's EXACTLY what I was doing. The open ports are just water.

I've got two air ports plugged, another air port plugged on the top of the wastegate (that one open to the driver side vs. the one at the center top of the wastegate that's open to the sky). Then have a banjo bolt going into a driver side facing port with a line going down to the wastegate solenoid close to the turbo.

Should I stick a banjo bolt on the top hole that's used to help the diaphragm move or just leave it open?

 

Anyone know what couplers I need/can use to mate my Cobb intake to the new turbo?

I tried trimming mine but even trimmed it still sticks too far out from the turbo. It seems like if the intake were like an inch longer, I could use the coupler it came with but with it cut, it's a no go.

 

Got a picture? If you’re just using the 3” 90° ATP sends you maybe try a tight radius 90° instead?

 

I have a 90 coupler on the turbo, an intermediate pipe, and then another coupler to connect to the intake.

 

That's what I kinda have right now but ghetto(er):

90 degree 3" coupler that's been cut down on the turbo side, then a 2.5" to 3" coupler that dips down into the 3" coupler ... and then the 3-3" coupler at the filter.

I needed something to help me get home so that was that.

Would you link me what you're using for the intermediate pipe? Maybe the couplers too...?

 

I got in there and fixed my CEL. Somehow the clip that goes onto the turbo/wastegate solenoid snapped off (the wire part that holds it together). That thing was tight AND secured but still popped off.

No worries though as I just plugged it all back in, added additional straps to minimize its movement and de-mating from the solenoid, and drove and see the CEL is gone.

I also kinda see what's going on with the turbo intake coupler.

One, this mush brain didn't bother to move it to a better position. So I've moved the angle and it allllmost seems like it fits better ... but it's still not long enough.

I ordered an 8" long, 3.0" ID coupler from Amazon that (allegedly) will be here tomorrow. That should do the trick.

I also added additional heat shield wrapping around my 2/0 gauge power cable that runs to the hatch, wrapped each of the coolant lines going to the firewall, and secured everything down just a little bit more.

Fingers crossed all I need is that intake coupler. I will be so relieved if all that's needed is to get that thing properly sealed.

 

Hey, whatever you do, please make sure you point the coolant outlet banjo upwards. It's essential to keeping your turbo cool after you shut the motor off. If you point the banjo down you inhibit the heat pipe effect.

 

Hey, whatever you do, please make sure you point the coolant banjo upwards. It's essential to keeping your turbo cool after you shut the motor off. If you point the banjo down you inhibit the heat pipe effect.

View attachment 429189

This is an extremely good point.

I wonder how many folks are running these with it facing down.

I don't remember a single guide, video, or post that mentioned this.

Fortunately it's on Garrett's website which I'm constantly on trying to make sense of all the science and numbers n what not that goes into this world.

 

Success!

I ended up getting an 8-inch in both directions, 90-degree 3" silicone coupler from Amazon for $22.

Cobb charged me $55 for a similar one for a charge pipe I never ended up needing.

I cinched a c-clamp to that bad boi and managed to cut a pretty dang straight line. I'm kinda proud of myself. lol

And the best part: That damn turbo hit 21psi (which I didn't think it would on the base tune) and popped off a charge pipe. Feels good!

Now I just have to stop being paranoid that I'm going to blow everything up and start taking logs. Might take me a few days though.

 

keep an eye on that WGDC and Charge Air Temperature. Sounds like you’re having no problem hitting boost.

If you’ve got high WGDC and low boost then you might be leaking somewhere. should be seeing considerably lower WGDC than stock turbo.

If you’ve got good oil temp and pressure and your coolant level is staying good then you know your turbo install was tight. Oil temp and pressure are derived values on the dashboard but they’re trustworthy enough.

 

keep an eye on that WGDC and Charge Air Temperature. Sounds like you’re having no problem hitting boost.

If you’ve got high WGDC and low boost then you might be leaking somewhere. should be seeing considerably lower WGDC than stock turbo.

If you’ve got good oil temp and pressure and your coolant level is staying good then you know your turbo install was tight. Oil temp and pressure are derived values on the dashboard but they’re trustworthy enough.

Coolant is staying good, pressure and oil temp are where they should be too.

After a few days on it, I'm getting over my paranoia.

I've gotta drop the car off at Ford on Monday for some suspension/handling stuff (extended warranty covered) so once that's all done and I get my proper summer tires on, I'll be logging and either have data to confirm my paranoia or data to confirm all is well.

Appreciate all the help.

That one about the coolant and angle should be in every guide there is. Hell, wish Garrett shipped that with the turbo because I'm sure there's few guys who check their site and even fewer guides that say anything about this (seen plenty of photos of turbos on the block and that coolant line is pointing 90 degrees out and down).

 

could be worth putting a ratchet on the turbine inlet v-band clamp after you’ve heated it up a few times. sometimes it sneaks loose during bake in.

 

Good call! I'm definitely going to attempt this without the hoist courtesy of the mother's driveway this weekend. Thanks again!!

 

Stratified is doing the tune.

I only had two Michelin Pilot Sport 4s so haven't started logging yet. Two more coming in tomorrow and once they're in, I'll likely start logging.

Did some baby pulls on crap backup tires and things are good. I'm starting to get over the paranoia, especially after realizing if there was something really wrong with the turbo, it would sound VERY different than what I'm hearing (high pitched turbo whine and my BOV now sounding like a school bus stopping to scoop up students).

 

Alrighty. Got the car back up on a hoist and I THINK I figured out what the weird noise was that I was hearing ... one of them anyway:

Dang dump tube was tapping against the subframe. It doesn't touch it when parked but I could see a scuff on the ceramic coating where it's banging into it when I hit a bump or something.

I stuck some high temp rated pad between it and the subframe. If it doesn't melt, which allegedly it's rated not to, cool ... otherwise I think this'll just mean I need Junits 2.0 and will reinstall the damn thing. lol

Though, at this point, instead of taking three days to install a turbo, I could easily do it in one. 💪

And now, rear brakes.

 

Dang dump tube was tapping against the subframe. It doesn't touch it when parked but I could see a scuff on the ceramic coating where it's banging into it when I hit a bump or something.

What motor mounts? Could be the engine/trans rocking forward back, easy to do when hitting boost or slamming brakes.

 

I forgot to add:

Checked clamps and all the clamps are good. I was HOPING it was a clamp issue because that's an easy fix but everything is on there tight, it ain't moving, and there's no signs of debris/exhaust leaks.

I'm not much for pride but I feel pretty good about this. Might even reward myself with a beer or something. 👏

 

Question:

Right now my BOV is working off a MAPtap coming off the front of the intake manifold (you know, where the MAP sensor is which I guess the name implies already).

With the big turbo on there, is this fine for the BOV? The BOV is a Tial on the cold side of a cpe charge pipe.

I've noticed that it doesn't blow off as much but I figured that very well could be due to the tune and running less boost in the low RPMs for now.

When it does blow off, it certainly sounds better than it ever did even if the turbo flutter is gone.

 

Yes, that connection is fine. Sounds like normal operation.