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Reviving the old thread but I swapped in 2017 focus leather into my 2016 ST1. It was plug and play easy. I did not change the occupancy sensory. I did get the airbag error warning light but I was able to reset with FORScan and all is good!! View attachment 388245
Man, I've been in a rental titanium and was kind of jealous even with st3 seats.. they look good and lord knows the feel better. Nice upgrade 👌!
 
Such a bummer - it looks like the OP's photos are now gone........ 😕 I just bought a Titanium passenger seat out of a flood car (but with good looking leather) and will be tacking the swap out of the covers per the OPs procedure.
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I wanted to let the community know that I was able to successfully strip a Titanium leather passenger seat from a flood car to reclaim the leather trim and the underlying foam pads. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that this seat is also heated and the heat pads still seem to be OK as they test out at 5 ohms each.
I was also able to snag a heated seat controller with harness from a 2012, so heated leather seats shoud be plug and play when I get my own ST1 seat re-covered with the Titanium parts.
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This is awesome!! So excited for you man!! What a great, improve your life, sort of mod!!
 
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This is awesome!! So excited for you man!! What a great, improve your life, sort of mod!!
Look at the rust on that seat though - definitely a flood car. The rust was holding on the foam pads in places so I had to carefully ease them off. I still plan on comparing them with my ST1 seat forms, as I have a suspicion that they are actually the same shape, but we shall see. There was also a little dried up mold evidence on the leathers and the foams, but this cleaned up fine. Leathers themselves are in great shape with hardly any wear (the photo shows them on the original seat frame, after initial cleaning but before stripping the seat..
Last is to source a Titanium drivers seat, which is going to be the big one of course! This same yard also has the drivers seat available from the flood car, but I don't want to do that, as the motors will surely be toast and I would also like the power driver seat feature.
 
While I wait for my Titanium leather driver seat to arrive, I decided to tackle the seat heater controls today - the entire console does have to come out to put the control in and there is a little bit of wire harness connector de-pinning and repinning to do, but very simple really….it also a chance to clean up 9 years worth of crap between the seat and the console! 👍

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Update on my Titanium heated leather seats install upgrade on 2013 ST1:

The last seat needed to complete the project was the driver seat: After much research and wheeler-dealering on EBay, I concluded that I was simply not going to pay $500.00+ for a "good" driver seat assembly. So, I took a chance and purchased the driver seat out of a 2014 Titanium that had been in a (freshwater) flood car from Texas for $300.00 shipped to Florida. In fact, it is from the very same car that my passenger seat came from as well, so at least I had a pretty good idea of what to expect in terms of the general condition.

The seat arrived pretty smelly (as expected from prior experience) and not quite complete (missing the headrest and the side trim panel with the power control switch). The headrest was no problem, as I had already found a matching pair on E-Bay but sourcing the switch panel and switch might be a different story........

Seat as Delivered:
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First order of business was to strip the seat base and clean everything up, including removing the gummy wiring insulation from the harnesses, cleaning and rewrapping them with Tessa tape. After that all the seat motors (back/forward, up/down and recline) were inspected and tested with a 12V DC power supply and found to be good. The back/forward screw drive was found to be gummed up and jammed on one side, which ended up cracking the motor support crossmember bracket (this part is made of nylon). I assume this happened when the seat was tested by the yard. This bracket was removed, cleaned up and repaired with epoxy, A small motor torque reaction tab was also sheared off the bracket, so a little extra motor retention using a strategically placed cable tie took care of that. The worm screw mechanisms were freed off with penetrating oil, treated with dry lube and carefully tested and realigned before rebuilding. There is a seat base support pan pressing which is made of unpainted steel, so this was quite surface rusty but cleaned up fine with naval jelly, after which it was lightly oiled to protect it.

Seat Base Cleaned and Rebuilt:
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Back/Forward Motor and Cross-Bracket - Repaired:
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The leather base (and the backrest cover) responded really well to a good cleaning and conditioning and the heater mats all tested out good at about 5 ohms resistance.

Now it was time to strip the seat back and get the leather cover cleaned (including the removal of some black mold spots on the inside). The seat back frame is mainly unpainted steel, so there was a fair bit of corrosion where the foam had retained water and also caused the foam to stick to the metal in certain areas. The foams are specific to the Titanium seats, so this was carefully removed and the frame then cleaned up to remove the worst of the surface rust. Some minor tearing of the foam at thin sections around the airbag unit was also repaired with epoxy.

Seat Back Cover - Inside Out for Cleaning:
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Seat Back Frame - Cleaned Up and Tested:
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At this point, the only thing I needed from my existing ST1 seat was the airbag unit (who would trust an airbag out of a flood car.......?). So, the ST1 seat came out and the backrest was removed and stripped to harvest the airbag and transfer it over to the titanium seat back frame. After that, it was just a matter of carefully reassembling the Titanium seat. Meanwhile I was lucky enough to source a pre-facelift power seat side trim panel (with the control switch) on E-Bay for $65, so that was clipped on as well.

After reinstalling in the car I was freaked out to discover that the power seat controls were all inoperative. However, after a few minutes I figured out that Ford had omitted the power seat fuse from the rear junction box on the ST1 (it is fuse slot #9 - 25 Amp), so I borrowed one from one of the door module circuits located nearby (slots 4-7) and away we go!

Seat Installed:
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All in all, this is a very pleasing project and it really lifts the interior of the ST1. The Titanium seats feel slightly different from the ST1 cloth, but still firm and well bolstered. Living in South Florida, the heated seats are not needed really, but nice to have on the odd chilly morning.

One note for anyone removing front seats from our cars - it is VERY easy to catch the seat rails on the plastic trim around the door and on the door card itself - this will inevitably leave a mark and/or a gouge in the soft plastic (you can see some that I made in the last photo above). So take your time, cover the trim with towels and maybe have a second person as a helper and spotter.
 
Quick update on my rebuilt Titanium leather driver's seat (from the Texas flood car): Tried the seater this morning for the first time (61 Deg F in Florida......;) at 7am!). I found that it was not getting warm after all. Swapped the heater controller over from the passenger's seat (this little guy - photo below). Hey presto - instant heat!
Fortunately these are available from various sources (EBay) at low cost (new and used), without having to buy the entire heater mat and wiring as well, as Ford wants you to do.

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Reviving the old thread but I swapped in 2017 focus leather into my 2016 ST1. It was plug and play easy. I did not change the occupancy sensory. I did get the airbag error warning light but I was able to reset with FORScan and all is good!! View attachment 388245
So what exactly did you do in FORscan to get the airbag light to go away? I know FORscan can be tricky to navigate… I just swapped ST3 seats into my ST1. They are for the proper year and everything plugged right in, power seats work but I have the pesky airbag light. So my options are to either have a body shop or a dealership rectify it or to do it myself using FORscan… any info is greatly appreciated!
 
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