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Weird Clutch Issue (P08AA)

33K views 39 replies 11 participants last post by  MP131987  
#1 ·
Problem: P08AA – Clutch Pedal Position Sensor Circuit High

Symptoms: Cannot use features like flat-foot shifting or launch control. Car can be started without clutch in. Clutch position sensor on my AP reads 67% clutch engagement with my foot off the clutch instead of 0%. Clutch position sensor reads 100% when pressed all the way in.

Happened after replacing the master cylinder over a year ago. I couldn’t get the clutch sensor to clip in, so I left it out for about 6 months before eventually getting under and putting it back in.

Tried: Cleared codes. Cleared KAM. Reset PCM the oldschool way. Reset PCM through ForScan. Replaced both clutch sensors on the pedal, (sensors that sense when the clutch is in or out, as well as the sensor on the master cylinder, as well as the entire master cylinder assembly itself, because at this point why not? Inspected the wiring for damage and found none.

I’m at a loss – is there something I am missing, like a clutch reset or re-learning procedure?
 
#2 ·
Disconnect the battery and let it sit for 15 min then reconnect it.
 
#5 ·
Do you have an Accessport? If so, you would switch one of your gauges to "clutch pedal position" and make sure it reads 0 at rest, 100 at full press, and smoothly activate the clutch while watching the gauge, and look for flat spots in the percentage reading.

Well. You'd have to verify that both clutch pedal sensors are fully plugged in. I've had one be half plugged before. In this case it was the sensor closest to the driver.

Once that is verified, then inspect both of the "plungers" on the switches for damage or deformity. Also check the two areas those plungers ride on, for obstructions.

Now you should grab each sensor individually, and gently try to wiggle them around, if they are falling off the pedal assembly, or super loose, this can cause issues.

While you are in there, check the wiring to each switch for damage.

If there isn't a smoking gun at this point. You can just replace the sensors anyway, to rule out the variables.
 
#6 ·
@Duece McCracken Thanks for taking time out to reply, I had OBD2 reader with me so I checked and yes you are right it thinks its 66% pressed in even when foot is off. So I ordered both switches for CPP sensors. I'll update once I replace them.
 
#7 ·
Pay close attention to how they are installed, and which sensor goes in which location. iirc the rear one can be a PITA to re-install.

I can help you out if you run into trouble. I have replaced that whole clutch pedal assembly a few times.
 
#9 ·
So...I have this code after an engine and tranny remove and replace. I removed the clutch pedal assy during the process. So...I've replaced all 3 clutch sensors, the 2 inside the car AND the one on the clutch master cylinder snapped to the side of the clutch assy inside the engine comp behind the battery box....no dice. So..in addition...I cant start tuning the car because when I hit 5k RPM the rev limiter kicks presumably because I'm on a tune with flat foot shifting enabled and it thinks the clutch is depressed. I have the exact same reading as the OP, 67 when the clutch is out and 100 when its depressed.

Anyone ever solve this?

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#10 ·
Update: Took the car to Ford (same dealership I ordered the new pedal and master cylinder sensor from) they trouble shot it and determined the brand new sensor I just installed was bad. Because I installed it, and not a Ford dealership I had to pay the labor charge. They replaced the whole clutch pedal with the new sensor and fixed the error code. $360 in labor because Ford sold me a defective brand new part, sigh. Sadly they F-ed something up because air is getting into the clutch line causing a spongy pedal and sticks to the floor. Waiting for them to fix whatever they F'd up. Anyways...that was my P08AA saga.

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#14 ·
I know this is an old thread but there isn't much info on this issue.

The problem usually occurs after replacing the master cylinder with an aftermarket one. While they do have the spot to snap on the old position sensor on they do not have a magnet on the shaft to make the sensor work.

The code that's listed P08AA has nothing at all to do with the 2 switches inside on the pedal it's the sensor on the end of the master cylinder in the engine bay.

Hope this helps someone that is pulling their hair out.
 
#15 ·
I know this is an old thread but there isn't much info on this issue.

The problem usually occurs after replacing the master cylinder with an aftermarket one. While they do have the spot to snap on the old position sensor on they do not have a magnet on the shaft to make the sensor work.

The code that's listed P08AA has nothing at all to do with the 2 switches inside on the pedal it's the sensor on the end of the master cylinder in the engine bay.

Hope this helps someone that is pulling their hair out.
yup this was covered extensively in another thread. along with pictures and part #'s
 
#18 ·
I bought through graveyard performance. they do a lot with the focus st market. figured I'd be getting an oem part. for that matter I swear it said taska somewhere on the box the new pedal came in. Plus how are consumers supposed to know theres a dual magnet setup inside the damn thing, and the wrong pedal won't have it?
 
#22 ·
Problem: P08AA – Clutch Pedal Position Sensor Circuit High

Symptoms: Cannot use features like flat-foot shifting or launch control. Car can be started without clutch in. Clutch position sensor on my AP reads 67% clutch engagement with my foot off the clutch instead of 0%. Clutch position sensor reads 100% when pressed all the way in.

Happened after replacing the master cylinder over a year ago. I couldn’t get the clutch sensor to clip in, so I left it out for about 6 months before eventually getting under and putting it back in.

Tried: Cleared codes. Cleared KAM. Reset PCM the oldschool way. Reset PCM through ForScan. Replaced both clutch sensors on the pedal, (sensors that sense when the clutch is in or out, as well as the sensor on the master cylinder, as well as the entire master cylinder assembly itself, because at this point why not? Inspected the wiring for damage and found none.

I’m at a loss – is there something I am missing, like a clutch reset or re-learning procedure?
FOUND THE FIX!

Had the same issue with a friend that I work with. The pedal has 2 sensors a cruise control cancel and a clutch position 0 to 100% reading

So the issue is you can get a single master for these focus's from oriellys or where ever. If you do make sure there is a magnet in the master cylinder for the sensor. The one we got from oriellys didn't. And that's the whole issue.

So found this out be cause there is a sensor that just clips on to the master and it has to sense something!?

So find the old master and pull it out of the trash and a small piece of metal wire is stuck on the sensor side!

Take a small pocket screw driver to see if it gravitates to the new master... it doesn't.

So this is why some people are getting full pedal assemblys from ford and it fixes the issue.
Image

Image
 
#23 ·
I wish that was the case with mine. Mine came from the dealer, and is 2015+ currently I'm gonna try swapping out both sensors on the pedal, and if that doesnt work. I'll remove my battery again, ands check the plug for the magnet sensor. I also talked to ford, and they guy said they can adjust the sensors input? (for 30.00) so maybe its actually a manufacturing issue with the master cylinder magnet and needs to be calibrated with some new pedals?
 
#34 · (Edited)
So I now have a clutch master cylinder leak ... Maybe the cold had something to do with it. 🙁

I can see why it's confusing...
2 different ones show for the ST on this site.
Edit eBay says they both fit too 🙄.

BV6Z-7519-AR shows all Foci incl ST
BUT

DV6Z-7519-A shows for ONLY ST.
So the 2nd one seems more likely?!

Hydraulic System for 2016 Ford Focus | Ted Britt Parts
 
#38 ·
People in a hurry to fix their car will do the job twice if they first use just the aftermarket master cylinder and want their car to work right.

I wound up driving to a dealer the next town over because the local parts dept was closed Monday after Christmas. Got it the next day, but paid $150 for it.
They are not as accommodating matching online prices here. 😕
 
#39 ·
So. Just to update. I bought the RS master cylinder. The car starts with the clutch now instead of holding both break and start button. Cruise control now works. I can full throttle the entire rpm range. But. I still have the code P08AA. Which leads me to believe it's unrelated to the sensor on the master cylinder, because swapping that one part is what fixed all of my problems, yet the code is still persistent. The battery was removed for 14 hours. I used the Cobb to reset my codes and KAM, and even reset the ECU. I'm going to be buying an electronic diagram for my car and I'll have my cousin test what ever he needs to in order to figure out why and how this code appears.