[SSgtjrobertson]

1. Throttle body internal sensors (2 total) are failed. But you've changed it.

2. APP (accelerator pedal position) sensors failed.

3. The wiring where the PCM main harness meets the BJB (battery junction box) is dirty or loose.


Discount the TB and see it the codes change or stays the same. Pay close attention to pinched or damaged wiring.


.04 & 4.9 VDC are two extremes.

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

It connector into the top of the BJB.

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

The two sensors are there for a reason. One reads from low to high and the other from high to low. This way the PCM will know where the throttle blade position is.

The TB opens and closes when you first turn the car on to test for issues. The two should correlate between each other. If not then it triggers a different DTC.

Stupid question, but did you preform a KAM reset after changing the TB?

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

Hey @PBandJelly2014 did you ever fix this problem?
I am going through exactly this experience.

This is a pic from Ford wiring for the 2012 2.0L duratec - colors are different, but its the same 6 pin config.
The wires go straight to the PCM.
View attachment 402585

2013 diagram

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

The C1035C is a common issue due to heat, vibration & moisture. The throttle is a direct connection to the PCM but the APP (accelerator pedal position) must pass through the connector at the BJB (battery junction box) to make it back to the PCM.

For the throttle Pin 5 is the 5 VDC + VREF and Pin 4 is the SIGRTN -
Pins 3 & 6 are the signal return back to the PCM.
Pins 1 & 2 are the control motor. Do not try and measure these Pins with a DMM.

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

P0223 is where the position sensor is too high and clearly the P2111 is telling you that the throttle is stuck open.

The key here is to determine which is the cause and which is the symptom. While you were working on the injectors did you completely disconnect the battery?

If the wiring isn't damaged have you attempted a throttle sweep relearn?

---------------

Relearn throttle body position

1) Disconnect the negative then the positive battey terminals.

2) Hold the disconnected positive & negative battery terminals together for 1 to 2 minutes. The short circuit you’re creating is designed to drain all power from the capacitors inside the PCM.

3) Reconnect the positive then the negative battery terminals.

Turn off all electrical accessories before proceeding. Turn off headlights, blower motor, radio, wipers, etc.

4) Foot off the clutch press the start button to the run position and wait for all warning lights to turn off. During this period the PCM will command the throttle body plate to sweep from full open to full close to “learn” the new positions.

5) Start the engine and let it idle for a full 10-mins until it reaches full operating temperature. During this period the idle may be higher than normal. It should slowly drop as the engine heats up. Watch the engine temp gauge and note when it reaches operating temp. Then continue to let it idle for an additional 5 minutes. It will continue to adjust idle during this period.

6) Test drive the vehicle at various speed so the PCM learns the new positions.

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

View attachment 402674 View attachment 402675

Had AAA tow it home the other night. Finally back in the garage.

PCM is out. I had a horrible time getting the bolts out of container. All of the thread inserts were spinning in the plastic.

Both ends of the circuit now have easy access. I've looked through the forum and Can't find a digram for the other PCM harness. @SSgtjrobertson You posted this one originally (C1381B).
Would you be able to post the other connector?

C1381E

As requested

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

P1674

The Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) system is in the Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) mode of forced engine shutdown. Indicates an error occurred in the Powertrain Control Module.

Stupid question but have you attempted a reflash?

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

Also voltage reference from the PCM.
VREF + / SIGRTN - should show 5 VDC for as close as possible.

TP1 & TP2 are a high/low combo.
This means on sensor will sweep from low to high and the other from high to low.

I'm not sure which is which so this is just an example for explanation and not actual measurements.

Closed throttle (never completely closed)
Sensor 1 = .5 VDC
Sensor 2 = 4.5 VDC

100% throttle
Sensor 1 = 4.5 VDC
Sensor 2 = .5 VDC

As the throttles position changes so does the output of each Sensor relative to that change.

So the system is calibrated to set a voltage value based and the angle of the throttle shaft. It uses two sensors as a safety. If two sensors do not reflect the expected out back to the PCM then it will trigger a DTC/CEL.

The APP (accelerator pedal position) sensors are laid out exactly like this as well.

Both just use a variable resistor to change the 5 VDC VREF signal back to the PCM.

Mechanical failures can cause it to appear as a sensor failure as well. (Sticking or binding)

So if you get a code for high or low voltage then remember you're troubleshooting two (2) separate sensors that happen to share a power and ground source, but each have their own outputs.

J

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

So. Im trying not to think about this too hard. But the voltage on the TACM- may be from the throttle being pulled closed on the sweep. (Throttle bodies are spring-biased to high idle when total electronic failure has occurred). So in order for your throttle body to maintain idle it actually has to run the motor backwards to close the throttle body more against spring tension.

I'm explaining that to say initially the 4.5v on the ground wire jumped out at me, unless that's just from the reverse polarity of it running the TB closed.


If I were you, I'd solder jumpers on the additional four wires as well. It may still fault due to a position error. These are sensor circuit codes, not motor circuit codes.

I can't leave this place for one day...

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

Lol. What part didn't you agree with?

Nothing just thought it was relevant information for the topic at hand.... and I'm BORED!

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

Tylenol is the strongest thing I'm currently talking. And I plan on keeping it that way.

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

I keep coming back to the blown fuse. Something isn't sitting right about that. Did you isolate the cause?

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

Post #27 last pic speaks about the TPPC process. In the video you linked it shows that the throttle blade fails to establish the WOT hardtop and begins to shutter. The PCM attempts a retry with the same outcome.

Forgive me if I've already asked this but have you tried a different throttle body?

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

On today's episode of "Answers to things no one asked" or better known as "**** normal people never ****ing do to perfectly good parts"

I present you the inner workings of a factory 2.0 ecoboost throttle body:

---

Just incase you're interested 😉

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

Also voltage reference from the PCM.
VREF + / SIGRTN - should show 5 VDC for as close as possible.

TP1 & TP2 are a high/low combo.
This means on sensor will sweep from low to high and the other from high to low.

I'm not sure which is which so this is just an example for explanation and not actual measurements.

Closed throttle (never completely closed)
Sensor 1 = .5 VDC
Sensor 2 = 4.5 VDC

100% throttle
Sensor 1 = 4.5 VDC
Sensor 2 = .5 VDC

As the throttles position changes so does the output of each Sensor relative to that change.

So the system is calibrated to set a voltage value based and the angle of the throttle shaft. It uses two sensors as a safety. If two sensors do not reflect the expected out back to the PCM then it will trigger a DTC/CEL.

The APP (accelerator pedal position) sensors are laid out exactly like this as well.

Both just use a variable resistor to change the 5 VDC VREF signal back to the PCM.

Mechanical failures can cause it to appear as a sensor failure as well. (Sticking or binding)

So if you get a code for high or low voltage then remember you're troubleshooting two (2) separate sensors that happen to share a power and ground source, but each have their own outputs.

J

So if we're work on the theory that the B circuit is showing too high voltage (higher than the expected threshold) then it's either a failure of a hard part or wire related (short to voltage).

Stupid question but have you tried a manual KAM reset? (Disconnecting both the positive and negative battery cables and shorting them together for 40-50 seconds)

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

Last post of today. I have other deadlines.

I conducted a test with a DMM. I have the male side for the 6 pin DWB connector. I collected some numbers with the black lead of the DMM on the negative battery pole of the car. The red lead is then connected to each of the 6 pins, one at a time (white alligator clip in picture). I took several samples to verify these values. I made sure none of the bare wires were contacting anything when it wasn't their turn to test.

View attachment 404498

battery poles: 12.47v

Pin 1 (TACM+).....: 12.78v - OL resistance
Pin 2 (TACM-)......: 0.038v - 1.31 kohm
Pin 3 (TP1)...........: 0.045v - 0.79 Mohm
Pin 4 (ETCRTN)....: 0.011v. - 39.0 ohm
pin 5 (ETCREF)....: 5.039v - OL resistance
Pin 6 (TP2)...........: 4.815v - OL resistance

Also, during startup, Pin 1 goes to 12.78v and stays there.
Pin 2 briefly spikes to about 5v and then returns to zero (presumably once the TB has failed the test, which it only tries once without seeing sensor A circuit).

The OL resistances are posted for posterity but don't necessarily mean much since this test was taken using the battery (-) pole as common.

I'm very grateful for all of your help.
Hoping to spark some ideas with this. If anyone else has anything they'd like to see from the DMM just ask and I'll post results for whatever test you recommend.

Pins 1 & 2 need to be removed from this equation. The motor is functioning properly. In fact it may even be exceeding the 80+% threshold (in video it appears to bouncing off the hardstop.

This leaves 3,4,5 & 6.
Pin 5 VREF is the 5 VDC supply (+)
Pin 4 SIGRTN is the -5 VDC supply (-)

Pins 3 & 6 are the TP1 & 2 output to the PCM.

Do not check these voltages against battery terminals! PCM damage can occur faster that you can remove the meter leads. When dealing with sensors it's the safest practice to treat SIGRTN as a clean dedicated ground for that sensor.

DMM set to volts DC
Red lead to Pin 5 (+)
Black lead to Pin 4 (-)
= voltage available to sensor
-----
Red lead to Pin 3 (TP1 output)
Black lead to Pin 4 (-)
= Throttle blade at rest TPS output (high or low?)

-----
Red lead to Pin 6 (TP2 output)
Black lead to Pin 4 (-)
= Throttle blade at rest TPS output (high or low?)
----

If possible to back probe when Throttle body is attempting to sweep monitoring the Pin 3 & 6 output to see if either exceed the Pin 4 & 5 VREF output.

I'm not certain and am currently unable to get to my AP but these two outputs may or may not be individuals available.

You can see ETC in percentage 20% = closed & around 84% = WOT.

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

Pin 6 (TP2) 4.815 is overvoltage limit of 4.750. this sensor is available in accesstuner what you do with it is at your own risk.

I was in process of writing my reply when you pointed this fact out

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

TP2 (circuit B) showing high 4.815 VDC (.065 VDC over the maximum threshold) shows that if all parts are testing good the this very well may be a calibration issue. P0223 is a symptom, not the problem. It's passing correlation and it's not showing a hard part failure P0222 + P0223. So this seems more calibration related that electrical at this point.

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

For clarity. If voltage goes over 4.750, it triggers the p0223, correct?

Of course it is going to be over 4.750, the throttle body is not plugged in for these tests.

I'm reading it as, below 4.750 volts is within an acceptable operating range for the sensor. Above 4.750 volts means it's above the threshold of feedback for that sensor. Right?

That's why I was specifying that the test needs to be checked while back probing and against the PCM's SIGRTN.