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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Currently battling with codes -

P0223 - Throttle /Pedal Position Sensor /Switch B Circuit High

P0122 - Throttle /Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low

Just wanted to touch on this again in a separate discussion in case someone with a similar issue didn't acknowledge a larger post format with plenty of other miscellaneous details. Also, to be clear, I have no other codes present. Just these two.

Symptoms - Upon starting the car, the RPM's jump up to about 3,000 and then fall after a second or two. This is followed by a very rough up and down idle that bounces between 600 and 1,200 RPM's. The gas pedal itself is COMPLETELY unresponsive. I've monitored the voltage of both sensors using the AP, not sure how accurate that is, but sensor A reads 0.04v and sensor B reads 4.9v if I recall correctly.

What I've already tried - I started out with just replacing the throttle body itself. No luck there. Next up, I made sure I actually had the right clips in the right places. Still running the same. Lastly, I disconnected both of the ground points for the sensors, cleaned them, and reconnected. Nope!


I will be tackling this issue once more when the weekend rolls around but I do have an appointment with a reputable mechanic on Wednesday of next week if all else fails. I would just love to be able to say I've conquered all issues without any assistance, but at a certain point I have to know when to let someone else take over!
 

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1. Throttle body internal sensors (2 total) are failed. But you've changed it.

2. APP (accelerator pedal position) sensors failed.

3. The wiring where the PCM main harness meets the BJB (battery junction box) is dirty or loose.


Discount the TB and see it the codes change or stays the same. Pay close attention to pinched or damaged wiring.


.04 & 4.9 VDC are two extremes.
394928
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1. Throttle body internal sensors (2 total) are failed. But you've changed it.

2. APP (accelerator pedal position) sensors failed.

3. The wiring where the PCM main harness meets the BJB (battery junction box) is dirty or loose.


Discount the TB and see it the codes change or stays the same. Pay close attention to pinched or damaged wiring.


.04 & 4.9 VDC are two extremes.
View attachment 394928
Roger that. Could you point me in the direction of where the PCM main wire harness meets the BJB? Also, apologies if it sounds silly, but the PCM main wire harness seems pretty important. Would it be realistic to only have two codes from something like that being faulty?
 

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394930

It connector into the top of the BJB.
 

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The two sensors are there for a reason. One reads from low to high and the other from high to low. This way the PCM will know where the throttle blade position is.

The TB opens and closes when you first turn the car on to test for issues. The two should correlate between each other. If not then it triggers a different DTC.

Stupid question, but did you preform a KAM reset after changing the TB?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did perform the KAM, and followed the steps in another post to recalibrate the throttle position. It seems that of all the issues I could have ran into, this one is certainly among the most frustrating considering how dang close things are to functioning properly, but there’s several possible issues. Some that could be directly related, and others that could be indirectly related.

I spent some time looking into various diagnostic processes and remedies for a faulty TPS, and “Shrodingers Box” on YouTube was super helpful. Beginning to think it may not be directly related to the TPS itself and possibly something that piggy backs the TPS and is being a trickster lol. Again, no real evidence that proves my suspicion, but I don’t know how many other things I could try messing with ….
 

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Hey @PBandJelly2014 did you ever fix this problem?
I am going through exactly this experience.

This is a pic from Ford wiring for the 2012 2.0L duratec - colors are different, but its the same 6 pin config.
The wires go straight to the PCM.
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Circle
 

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The C1035C is a common issue due to heat, vibration & moisture. The throttle is a direct connection to the PCM but the APP (accelerator pedal position) must pass through the connector at the BJB (battery junction box) to make it back to the PCM.

For the throttle Pin 5 is the 5 VDC + VREF and Pin 4 is the SIGRTN -
Pins 3 & 6 are the signal return back to the PCM.
Pins 1 & 2 are the control motor. Do not try and measure these Pins with a DMM.
 

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P2101 is the actuator isn't moving
P2122 is the actuator isn't being supplied power (open)
View attachment 402572

View attachment 402573
Following up on this here to keep the 2.3 Throttle body thread on topic.

my DTC's are actually
P0223 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B circuit High
P2111 - Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) System Stuck Open

Car is parked about 20 miles away and I tried to recall what the DTC's were - oops. Just verified these corrected ones today.
 

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P0223 is where the position sensor is too high and clearly the P2111 is telling you that the throttle is stuck open.

The key here is to determine which is the cause and which is the symptom. While you were working on the injectors did you completely disconnect the battery?

If the wiring isn't damaged have you attempted a throttle sweep relearn?

---------------

Relearn throttle body position

1) Disconnect the negative then the positive battey terminals.

2) Hold the disconnected positive & negative battery terminals together for 1 to 2 minutes. The short circuit you’re creating is designed to drain all power from the capacitors inside the PCM.

3) Reconnect the positive then the negative battery terminals.

Turn off all electrical accessories before proceeding. Turn off headlights, blower motor, radio, wipers, etc.

4) Foot off the clutch press the start button to the run position and wait for all warning lights to turn off. During this period the PCM will command the throttle body plate to sweep from full open to full close to “learn” the new positions.

5) Start the engine and let it idle for a full 10-mins until it reaches full operating temperature. During this period the idle may be higher than normal. It should slowly drop as the engine heats up. Watch the engine temp gauge and note when it reaches operating temp. Then continue to let it idle for an additional 5 minutes. It will continue to adjust idle during this period.

6) Test drive the vehicle at various speed so the PCM learns the new positions.
 

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Font Material property Parallel Pattern Rectangle
Font Material property Parallel Paper Handwriting


Had AAA tow it home the other night. Finally back in the garage.

PCM is out. I had a horrible time getting the bolts out of container. All of the thread inserts were spinning in the plastic.

Both ends of the circuit now have easy access. I've looked through the forum and Can't find a digram for the other PCM harness. @SSgtjrobertson You posted this one originally (C1381B).
Would you be able to post the other connector?
 

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View attachment 402674 View attachment 402675

Had AAA tow it home the other night. Finally back in the garage.

PCM is out. I had a horrible time getting the bolts out of container. All of the thread inserts were spinning in the plastic.

Both ends of the circuit now have easy access. I've looked through the forum and Can't find a digram for the other PCM harness. @SSgtjrobertson You posted this one originally (C1381B).
Would you be able to post the other connector?
C1381E
Font Rectangle Material property Parallel Pattern


Font Material property Parallel Pattern Paper


Rectangle Font Parallel Number Publication


As requested
 

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So I've tried the "throttle relearn" procedure many times now. When ECM first kicks on it puts some power to the TB to try a sweep. It sounds like it doesn't get very far, but definitely can hear motor noises. After that, the TB is completely unresponsive. No response to the pedal. I have the same rev spike start up as OP. It then quickly falls to a 600 rpm very bouncy idle (engine choked for air).

I just checked continuity for all 6 TB wires to the PCM. All good, all had a resistance of 2 ohms.

Don't know what it could be now. Maybe the TB that went bad smoked The PCM circuit?
 

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I also have two new codes:
P1674 - No description available
P0122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A circuit Low

old ones still remaining:
P0223 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B circuit High
P211 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC System Stuck Open

Do you have a digram of the pedal pigtail? its also 6 pins
[edit] - actually the colors are on one of the diagrams you've already provided.
[edit] - Uh Oh. P1674 looks like a bricked PCM indicator
 

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P1674

The Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) system is in the Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) mode of forced engine shutdown. Indicates an error occurred in the Powertrain Control Module.

Stupid question but have you attempted a reflash?
 

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Just attempted a refresh. Same symptoms. It sounds like the motor control glitches out.

I just uninstalled my AP (restore to stock) for the upcoming locksmith visit. Fortunately PCM's are only $35 on ebay.

During this reflash, then uninstall I heard it do its glitchy sound many times. It's definitely not right and the TB Is brand new. Since its hardwired to the PCM and the first TB was corroded and then cleaned and (stupidly) packed with brake lube silicone, I'm guessing the silicone is not as dielectric as intended and caused a short.
 

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Just attempted a refresh. Same symptoms. It sounds like the motor control glitches out.

I just uninstalled my AP (restore to stock) for the upcoming locksmith visit. Fortunately PCM's are only $35 on ebay.

During this reflash, then uninstall I heard it do its glitchy sound many times. It's definitely not right and the TB Is brand new. Since its hardwired to the PCM and the first TB was corroded and then cleaned and (stupidly) packed with brake lube silicone, I'm guessing the silicone is not as dielectric as intended and caused a short.
Geez man, brake lube. Thats a first for me.

Hopefully the pcm swap and relash squares it away, and you hop on amazon and buy dielectric grease.
 

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I grabbed an ebay pulled PCM for $35. Took it to the dealership. No luck.
ebay said it was compatible with 2013 ST... but dealership said it was for a non turbo model... so that variable isn't resolved.
The dealership said it was " a pain to program, and might not even work since its for the non turbo model".
From other PCM experiences on the forum, I thought any 2013 Focus PCM would work. This is not true. It has to have the H/W: BB5A-12B684-AC hardware number.
$300 dealership learning fee there for not reading far enough into it. The non turbo ones are ≈$40 and the turbo ones are about $400.

Anyway, I got the car back from the dealership (AAA tows for days). I very carefully test all 6 wires again, checking all 6 TB pins for every 1 PCM pin just to make sure nothing was crossed. All good.

For healthy startup, throttle does two things:
1) runs all the way closed hard. (to check current draw?)
2) Runs to full open (to check position sensor sweep)

Between both of the PCMs, my throttle does the same damn thing:
tries step 1 and then ****s the bed. Does not respond to user pedal input whatsoever. PCM throws aforementioned codes.

Bonus:
I also have a 2009 2.5L TB laying around. I have tried to run this in the ST before to see if it was possible. It responded to pedal inputs fine, but after a few minutes of driving the car threw errors and goes into protection mode evidently its sensors work differently. Still I threw this in because I knew it is a working TB. ST tries step 1 again, then ****s the bed.
Of course, using the wrong part(s) to diagnose the problem is not ideal, but something can be gathered here. No matter what hardware I change or test, the outcome is the same.

Are there any related fuses? I can't find any named "THROTTLE BODY FUSE YOU BIG DUMMY"
 
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