[cclevenger]

Took care of the P018C. It needed the fuel pressure sensor that's on the fuel line part BU5Z-9F972-B. Code is gone and the car runs smoother! View attachment 394300 View attachment 394301

How easy was changing the sensor? I’ve had the same code for quiet some time and want to get rid of it. No actual CEL but when scanned it pops up.

 

[Hot Rod Todd]

How easy was changing the sensor? I’ve had the same code for quiet some time and want to get rid of it. No actual CEL but when scanned it pops up.

It's easy, just be cautious of open flames, cigarettes, sources of static, etc. Have a fire extinguisher handy just in case. *Disclaimer... Do this at your own risk or have a dealer do it, this is just general information I'm providing from when I did mine. I've been professionally repairing cars for 4 decades so keep that it mind and only do this repair if you are comfortable doing so.

The sensor is located on a fuel line near the sound symposer / firewall. I reached it by removing the air intake and foam cover on the secondary fuel pump. I used a deep socket with a swivel, and a long extension, so my ratchet was around the center of the cowl area above the engine height so I could have room to loosen and then later tighten the sensor. Have a rag handy for a little gasoline that'll dribble out.

Pull the fuel pump fuse (located on the fuse block under a felt cover just below the glove box - check a manual or online for the location of the fuse, mine was towards the inner/upper), and let the car run itself out of gas to relieve pressure. There's a connector on the sensor that needs to be disconnected. Make sure you can hold the line so it doesn't bend. Compare the new sensor to the old one. It'll have a different number on it, but physically should be the same with the exception of a small breather hole in the new one. As long as the OE packaging has the correct OE number you're golden. Install the new sensor and tighten just past snug, it doesn't need to be screaming tight, try to remember the way the old one felt when you unscrewed it. There's likely a torque spec but I don't know what it is.

Reconnect the sensor, reinstall the air intake, reinstall the fuse, start the car briefly then shut off and double check your work to make sure it's not leaking after install. When you're confident it's not leaking, restart again and let run a minute or so, then shut off and recheck.

Once you're 100% sure it's not leaking under pressure, check it again except this time let the car run for several minutes. Recheck and when you're satisfied there's no leaks, take it for a spin. Mine has a much smoother idle and throttle response now with the new sensor.

 

[cclevenger]

It's easy, just be cautious of open flames, cigarettes, sources of static, etc. Have a fire extinguisher handy just in case. *Disclaimer... Do this at your own risk or have a dealer do it, this is just general information I'm providing from when I did mine. I've been professionally repairing cars for 4 decades so keep that it mind and only do this repair if you are comfortable doing so.

The sensor is located on a fuel line near the sound symposer / firewall. I reached it by removing the air intake and foam cover on the secondary fuel pump. I used a deep socket with a swivel, and a long extension, so my ratchet was around the center of the cowl area above the engine height so I could have room to loosen and then later tighten the sensor. Have a rag handy for a little gasoline that'll dribble out.

Pull the fuel pump fuse (located on the fuse block under a felt cover just below the glove box - check a manual or online for the location of the fuse, mine was towards the inner/upper), and let the car run itself out of gas to relieve pressure. There's a connector on the sensor that needs to be disconnected. Make sure you can hold the line so it doesn't bend. Compare the new sensor to the old one. It'll have a different number on it, but physically should be the same with the exception of a small breather hole in the new one. As long as the OE packaging has the correct OE number you're golden. Install the new sensor and tighten just past snug, it doesn't need to be screaming tight, try to remember the way the old one felt when you unscrewed it. There's likely a torque spec but I don't know what it is.

Reconnect the sensor, reinstall the air intake, reinstall the fuse, start the car briefly then shut off and double check your work to make sure it's not leaking after install. When you're confident it's not leaking, restart again and let run a minute or so, then shut off and recheck.

Once you're 100% sure it's not leaking under pressure, check it again except this time let the car run for several minutes. Recheck and when you're satisfied there's no leaks, take it for a spin. Mine has a much smoother idle and throttle response now with the new sensor.

Thank you for the follow up and clear explanation!

 

[Cksmy]

Took care of the P018C. It needed the fuel pressure sensor that's on the fuel line part BU5Z-9F972-B. Code is gone and the car runs smoother! View attachment 394300 View attachment 394301

I have the same code as well. Where is this sensor located on the fuel line? If possible could you take a picture of it as I am not very mechanically smart and need a visual of it. Thanks

 

[ddfred]

I have the same code as well. Where is this sensor located on the fuel line? If possible could you take a picture of it as I am not very mechanically smart and need a visual of it. Thanks

Read post 22 above, there is a pretty description of the remove and replace proceedure. Should help you locate the sensor.

 

[Cksmy]

Is it here where I have circled?

 

[Hot Rod Todd]

Yes that looks like it! I took some photos to help locate it as well. It's tucked underneath the secondary fuel pump, drivers(left) side, near the firewall. To reach it, I removed the engine cover, the air intake rubber elbow and the foam insulator for the fuel pump. Keep in mind, as an auto repair professional, I highly recommend you don't try changing it if you're not very mechanical. If you do try it, you need to follow the fuel pressure release procedure and check for leaks afterwards. Also utilize two hands, one to firmly hold the fuel line so it doesn't get damaged, the other to operate the socket and ratchet to remove the sensor, (personally I found it easiest with an 18" extension and a swivel ratchet so the tool is up high above the cowl).

 

[Cksmy]

Yes that looks like it! I took some photos to help locate it as well. It's tucked underneath the secondary fuel pump, drivers(left) side, near the firewall. To reach it, I removed the engine cover, the air intake rubber elbow and the foam insulator for the fuel pump. Keep in mind, as an auto repair professional, I highly recommend you don't try changing it if you're not very mechanical. If you do try it, you need to follow the fuel pressure release procedure and check for leaks afterwards. Also utilize two hands, one to firmly hold the fuel line so it doesn't get damaged, the other to operate the socket and ratchet to remove the sensor, (personally I found it easiest with an 18" extension and a swivel ratchet so the tool is up high above the cowl).
View attachment 400369
View attachment 400371
View attachment 400368

Thank you very much! I figured I didn’t want myself messing with the fuel lines and have a mechanic replacing the sensor. I’ve had poor fuel economy, weak acceleration, uphill battles for a while until I scanned the car and saw the P018C and read up about it and realized this could be the reason to all my issues. Thanks for clarification with the pictures!

 

[Hot Rod Todd]

Thank you very much! I figured I didn’t want myself messing with the fuel lines and have a mechanic replacing the sensor. I’ve had poor fuel economy, weak acceleration, uphill battles for a while until I scanned the car and saw the P018C and read up about it and realized this could be the reason to all my issues. Thanks for clarification with the pictures!

Interesting, let us know if that fixes those symptoms. For me personally, I had the code for a very long time, but the car ran good and got phenomenal mileage, (unusually good actually, which means it was likely running lean). For me, changing the sensor got rid of the DTC and it does run smoother. Mileage dropped down to the 29mpg average most people get.

 

[MtnMan]

Interesting, let us know if that fixes those symptoms. For me personally, I had the code for a very long time, but the car ran good and got phenomenal mileage, (unusually good actually, which means it was likely running lean). For me, changing the sensor got rid of the DTC and it does run smoother. Mileage dropped down to the 29mpg average most people get.

Wow! That's interesting. Lower mileage is better than a blown engine! Glad you got it fixed. I had wondered how the computer could be that optimistic 😁

 

[Cksmy]

Interesting, let us know if that fixes those symptoms. For me personally, I had the code for a very long time, but the car ran good and got phenomenal mileage, (unusually good actually, which means it was likely running lean). For me, changing the sensor got rid of the DTC and it does run smoother. Mileage dropped down to the 29mpg average most people get.

Thought I’d update you all on my current situation. I took it to Ford for them to replace the fuel pressure sensor and after having a look at it, they said that the fuel pressure sensor has seized up and they need to order a whole new fuel line. ?? Anyway, thankfully they told me that it falls under the powertrain warranty as I’m a few thousand miles under. Sadly, I’m without my car for a few days.

 

[Hot Rod Todd]

Thought I’d update you all on my current situation. I took it to Ford for them to replace the fuel pressure sensor and after having a look at it, they said that the fuel pressure sensor has seized up and they need to order a whole new fuel line. ?? Anyway, thankfully they told me that it falls under the powertrain warranty as I’m a few thousand miles under. Sadly, I’m without my car for a few days.

Wow! I wonder why you need a fuel line. Maybe they destroyed it trying to take the sensor out. Good thing they're covering it though, you're lucky.

 

[Cksmy]

Wow! I wonder why you need a fuel line. Maybe they destroyed it trying to take the sensor out. Good thing they're covering it though, you're lucky.

Yes that is what I am thinking is they must’ve destroyed the fuel line trying to take the sensor off and are now trying to cover their butts. Just a theory. But yes luckily it’s all covered for otherwise things would’ve been quite expensive.

 

[Cksmy]

Alright, so I got the car back after they replaced the fuel line and a new fuel sensor, and wow! What a difference! The car shifts so much more smoothly now. Throttle response is a lot better and the car feels alive. Couldn’t be more happier. Thanks all for helping me locate the issue and finally getting it resolved after many years.

 

[BlueFlash91]

Just wondering if anyone in the forum has experienced a P018C Fuel Pressure Sensor B Low Circuit DTC

The car runs fine, but will log this code right away, then after a day or two of driving, it'll throw the CEL MIL.

Along with the P018C Fuel Pressure Sensor B Low Circuit it'll usually have a P1450 "unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum" as well. I've got a new purge valve ordered and was wondering if replacing the fuel pressure sensor might be in order as well.

A little back story on this, not sure if it makes any difference or not. I bought the car used in March, its always run excellent, however about a month ago there intercooler charge hose to the throttle body developed a hole and subsequent loss of boost. Apparently someone may have nicked or cut the hose while changing oil filter, (looked like it was right in that area). The hose was replaced, boost restored, but then started throwing the two codes mentioned and check engine light. The weird part is, that it never had a check engine light before the hose replacement and like I said, always ran fine and still does.

Any ideas would be helpful, thanks.

Thx!

Super late but the part you may need is CM-5250. It is the pressure sensor behind the engine on the fuel line. Mine needs replaced.

 

[Ryry]

Adding to this thread as it seems to be most relevant.

I just finished installing my FMIC, and upon resetting ECU with AP3 and clearing KAM I immediately got this code. If i clear it it comes right back. So far just a DTC, no MIL. I'm confused... I found where the sensor is thanks to this thread and I was no where near that area. But just in case I made sure it's firmly connected. Cleared DTC and immediately came back. What could have possibly happened that this sensor just went kaput during some unrelated maintenance? Disconnecting battery negative and reconnecting? Just looking for thoughts before I order a sensor, or if anyone has more detailed trouble shooting.

Specifically I have P018C, B circuit low.

 

[Hot Rod Todd]

Adding to this thread as it seems to be most relevant.

I just finished installing my FMIC, and upon resetting ECU with AP3 and clearing KAM I immediately got this code. If i clear it it comes right back. So far just a DTC, no MIL. I'm confused... I found where the sensor is thanks to this thread and I was no where near that area. But just in case I made sure it's firmly connected. Cleared DTC and immediately came back. What could have possibly happened that this sensor just went kaput during some unrelated maintenance? Disconnecting battery negative and reconnecting? Just looking for thoughts before I order a sensor, or if anyone has more detailed trouble shooting.

Specifically I have P018C, B circuit low.

Curiously, what's AP3 and KAM? The only other thing I can come up with is the shutter... Plugged back in?

 

[Ryry]

AP3 is accessport, the Cobb tuner device. And I reset the KAM. You’re asking the wrong person on that but you’re supposed to do that after changing components out with the tune I have. I think it’s just like the memory of the PCM so it can learn again.

Yea I deleted the AGS but I kept the motor there and tied it up with it still plugged in to avoid any DTCs.

Appreciate you popping bye. I’m going to do some more researching but looks like it’s only a $70 sensor so I might just fire the parts cannon at it.

 

[Ryry]

Went away for a bit now it’s back. Went ahead and picked up the sensor. I will change it out and report back.

 

[Ryry]

Decided to setup FORscan for the first time and logged while I went for a drive. 15min drive and I was able to identify 2 instances where sensor voltage dropped to nil. As soon as the PCM sees it drop to 0.01V it logs the DTC. Being intermittent, it looks like it might take a while to actually throw the MIL. Crappy pics, sorry.

Dang it's awesome having a free tool to be able to do diagnostics like this. The AP is nice for live views, but having the oscilloscope function on FORscan makes me feel like a professional. I'm sure I haven't even scratched the surface. And to bring it full circle, I'm only able to do this because I got one of those sweet pay-it-forward laptops from @itssocoldinthe