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2016 ST, 93 oct, FRPP, RS air cleaner K&N filter, Forge FMIC, Mountune Recirc valve, resonator delet
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering if anyone in the forum has experienced a P018C Fuel Pressure Sensor B Low Circuit DTC

The car runs fine, but will log this code right away, then after a day or two of driving, it'll throw the CEL MIL.

Along with the P018C Fuel Pressure Sensor B Low Circuit it'll usually have a P1450 "unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum" as well. I've got a new purge valve ordered and was wondering if replacing the fuel pressure sensor might be in order as well.

A little back story on this, not sure if it makes any difference or not. I bought the car used in March, its always run excellent, however about a month ago there intercooler charge hose to the throttle body developed a hole and subsequent loss of boost. Apparently someone may have nicked or cut the hose while changing oil filter, (looked like it was right in that area). The hose was replaced, boost restored, but then started throwing the two codes mentioned and check engine light. The weird part is, that it never had a check engine light before the hose replacement and like I said, always ran fine and still does.

Any ideas would be helpful, thanks.

Thx!
 

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These cars are know to have HPFP issues, does the car feel sluggish or fall flat at certian RPMs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thx for the reply. No, definitely doesn't feel sluggish. Once in a great while I feel as if it stumbles from a dead stop, (almost like when you're new to driving a stick, which I'm definitely not), and I'll put my foot in the gas and slip the clutch a bit more, but that's pretty infrequent and I've been considered it poor driving skills, road pitch, or some other anomaly, unless perhaps that's a symptom. Other than that, it runs good. Recently did the Ford Performance Procal tune and it runs better than ever, especially the more the computer maps parameters.
 

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If it’s running fine, I’d replace the purge valve when it comes in, clear the codes and see if they come back.
 

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Also check for gas tank deformation, just as a precaution. Do you have any way of logging the rail pressure and the sensor's voltages?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just an update on this, for anyone who is following or references it in the future...

I went to change the purge valve line, got the old one off, (tricky until you figure out the 2 part plastic retainers), mirror matched it to the replacement Duralast part, and unfortunately the new one had a permanent kink in the line due to the way it had been packaged. I should've looked at it closer to begin with. Oh well, put the old purge valve back on and AutoZone is ordering a replacement for the defective one. Practice makes perfect anyway.

I figured I'd see if changing the fuel pressure sensor would stop the P018C, super easy swap, took like 10 minutes max. Sensor in hand, 1-1/6” deep well chrome socket, pulled fuse 56 and ran the car until it quit, swapped the sensor, put the fuse back in. Started and runs fine. When I scan it with the Procal 3 it still shows the P018C code, even after clearing, as well as performing KOEO and a KOER self tests. When I scan it with a pocket scanner it doesn't show any DTC's though.

Purge valve should be in this Tuesday and hopefully its not damaged, I'll change it out and recheck.
 

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Just an update on this, for anyone who is following or references it in the future...

I went to change the purge valve line, got the old one off, (tricky until you figure out the 2 part plastic retainers), mirror matched it to the replacement Duralast part, and unfortunately the new one had a permanent kink in the line due to the way it had been packaged. I should've looked at it closer to begin with. Oh well, put the old purge valve back on and AutoZone is ordering a replacement for the defective one. Practice makes perfect anyway.

I figured I'd see if changing the fuel pressure sensor would stop the P018C, super easy swap, took like 10 minutes max. Sensor in hand, 1-1/6” deep well chrome socket, pulled fuse 56 and ran the car until it quit, swapped the sensor, put the fuse back in. Started and runs fine. When I scan it with the Procal 3 it still shows the P018C code, even after clearing, as well as performing KOEO and a KOER self tests. When I scan it with a pocket scanner it doesn't show any DTC's though.

Purge valve should be in this Tuesday and hopefully its not damaged, I'll change it out and recheck.
Yeah really! The way they package the purge valves puts a lot of strain on the hard tubing for sure. I have seen a few with some questionable almost kinks.

Which sensor did you replace the HP rail sensor or on the low pressure side?

This code is common on the mustang low pressure side, due to faulty installation causing motors to go lean and pop. We dont have that issue, but it does kinda point us to the low pressure side due to our similarities with the 2.3 ecoboost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah really! The way they package the purge valves puts a lot of strain on the hard tubing for sure. I have seen a few with some questionable almost kinks.

Which sensor did you replace the HP rail sensor or on the low pressure side?

This code is common on the mustang low pressure side, due to faulty installation causing motors to go lean and pop. We don't have that issue, but it does kinda point us to the low pressure side due to our similarities with the 2.3 ecoboost.
When I called the auto parts store, they said unfortunately a lot of various parts that have lines attached are damaged from improper packaging. Mine was wadded up and shoved in a box half its size.

As for the Mustang 2.3 issue, that's good info and my brother in law had a new eco boost stang that launched the engine. He only used it for commuting back and forth to work and literally never hot rodded it. They replaced the engine under warranty and he traded in in for a Hyundai Ioniq Hybrid, if that says anything about the type of driver he is lol.

I'm guessing what I replaced is the hp rail sensor, (threaded/aluminum & plastic 3 prong connector, located right front of engine), https://www.autozone.com/engine-man...ion-pressure-sensor-800-90048/821875_144859_0

Where is the low pressure side sensor located?

Thanks!!!
 

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When I called the auto parts store, they said unfortunately a lot of various parts that have lines attached are damaged from improper packaging. Mine was wadded up and shoved in a box half its size.

As for the Mustang 2.3 issue, that's good info and my brother in law had a new eco boost stang that launched the engine. He only used it for commuting back and forth to work and literally never hot rodded it. They replaced the engine under warranty and he traded in in for a Hyundai Ioniq Hybrid, if that says anything about the type of driver he is lol.

I'm guessing what I replaced is the hp rail sensor, (threaded/aluminum & plastic 3 prong connector, located right front of engine), https://www.autozone.com/engine-man...ion-pressure-sensor-800-90048/821875_144859_0

Where is the low pressure side sensor located?

Thanks!!!

The low pressure fuel sensor is by the HPFP, installed in the low pressure side line. This post points to it decently.


Im pretty sure this is the sensor. It's really hard to kinda reference via diagrams. I have been searching around for quite some time to try and pinpoint it.
 

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Feel free to take some pictures if you can, of the install. Just so we can have our own here for other people.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Interesting... Thanks. When I search for the part#BU5Z-9F972-B in Napa website it doesn't apply to focus st, the only fuel pressure sensor it shows is the one I already replaced. I'll take a look under the hood in the location it shows in the fusion forum post, to see if there's a sensor there. The one in that post shows it on the fuel line near where the purge valve connection is near the firewall kinda sorta. The sensor I replaced would be at the end of the fuel rail I believe.
 

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Interesting... Thanks. When I search for the part#BU5Z-9F972-B in Napa website it doesn't apply to focus st, the only fuel pressure sensor it shows is the one I already replaced. I'll take a look under the hood in the location it shows in the fusion forum post, to see if there's a sensor there. The one in that post shows it on the fuel line near where the purge valve connection is near the firewall kinda sorta. The sensor I replaced would be at the end of the fuel rail I believe.
Yes, if you didnt replace the sensor I linked , then you did the fuel rail pressure sensor, aka the High Pressure sensor.

Indeed! It's right by the purge valve. That's the low pressure side right before it goes into the high pressure fuel pump. The fusion is running the same 2.0 we are (for the most part) so I can't see it not being there for us too. If I have some time later once it cools off, I may try to confirm it on my focus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Just an update in case anyone's following this P1450 and P018C with CEL thread.

I finally got a FORD purge line/valve, (I'd already tried to aftermarket ones that had kinks/defects in the tubing). The Ford replacement was much higher quality without defects and went in smoothly, but I was sort of surprised at the results:

1) After installing the new purge line and clearing the codes, took a heavy footed ride and it ran okay and seemed speedy, but didn't seem like it had as much pull, or as high a boost range as before swapping out the purge line. It seemed to fall flat once it reached about 20 psi, then it would drop a few psi, where as before it would peg 25 psi and just stay there until I backed off the throttle.

*Keep in mind I'm running the Ford Performance recalibration.

2) I drove normally for several days in various driving conditions and it seemed to improve. Its back to pegging 25 psi, sometimes a few pounds higher, and it stays there.

* At this point, I'm assuming that the fuel management has to relearn the proper mix with the new purge line.

3) After a week or so, I ran it very low on gas, then filled up at my favorite station Feece Oil, with 93 octane like I always do. It took 12.6 gallons of gas, (pretty sure that's max capacity for fuel), so I don't think there's any deformation of the fuel tank. I reset the tripmeter.

4) Here's where it gets really interesting... I've already drove many more miles and drive cycles than previous and no CEL. As for performance, it runs very good and feels strong. The strangest part is, that instead of the ridiculously efficient 32 to 34 mpg average I'd posted in this forum in other threads, its now at 29 mpg average. Same gas, same driver, same style driving, just a new purge line in place.

*I think that 29 was the advertised average for the car from OEM.

Anyway, to wrap this up, I just knocked on wood, and to date my check engine light is still off. The car runs fine and I'm thinking that replacing the purge line may have resolved the issues. It does make me wonder though... What the heck was the old purge line doing that effected the mileage like that? I wonder if it was running way leaner than it should have been, and is now running within more normal parameters.

I'll try to report back if anything changes.

381833
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Funny I was googling "P018C Focus ST" and my own thread. So, still no Check Engine Light after changing the purge valve, but I still get the "P018C Fuel Pressure Sensor B Low" DTC when I run the FRPP software scan. Still can't figure out where this sensor is on the vehicle or if the DTC is legit. It still runs perfectly. Any thoughts?
393206
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Took care of the P018C. It needed the fuel pressure sensor that's on the fuel line part BU5Z-9F972-B. Code is gone and the car runs smoother!
394300
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Did your MPG go back up after the new sensor was installed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Did your MPG go back up after the new sensor was installed?
Interesting you ask... I filled up afterwards and reset the trip meter and it's been hovering around 30 mpg driving sane with a couple of short romps. I wonder if my ridiculously high 33+ mpg avg I was getting was because of that sensor acting up?
 

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Have you been doing the calculation by hand to compare? I believe you posted it was pretty accurate in a different thread. Mine is always off by _2mpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Have you been doing the calculation by hand to compare? I believe you posted it was pretty accurate in a different thread. Mine is always off by _2mpg
No too lazy ;-) just counting on Ford's fancy electronics to be accurate.
 
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