here are two very good reads
http://www.focusst.org/forum/data-logs/16438-how-take-post-datalogs-forum.html
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-performance/17339-want-data-log-monitor-your-focus-st-how.html

 

I don't think there is a list compiled of what each parameter should show. The most important are
IGN Corr Cyl 1-4, should show 0 to positive corrections. Some small negative corrections are normal, but high negative numbers are bad.
and OAR (octane adjust ratio) should be -1. It can swing from +1 (bad) to -1 (great). This is based on how good the gas is in the tank for the tune you're running.

Here is the tuning guide for Access Tuner Race software. Even if you didn't buy ATR and don't plan on doing your own tuning, there is alot of info in there that can help you understand what the monitors are and what the readings should be. It's well worth the time spent reading to fully understand what you're looking at when logging.
ATR Guide

The best thing to do for now, install the AP, leave the default datalog list as is, and do a 3rd gear log from 2000rpm to 6500rpm, and post it here. Lots of good people here to look over it. There was a "how to datalog your car" how to posted by Randy@Mountune, but I don't know if it's still posted.

 

How much positive ignition correction do you like to see? Do you try to tune it as close to 0 as you can?

 

Kenny loggen

 

Thanks for the info guys!!!!!

 

i think you have a great idea here.
i use a scanmaster for the grand national and the typhoon.
it has and lists values and what they should be under wot so as not to blow the engine and be as fast as possible.
example
the afr and knock values should be this() while cruising and this() under wot.
if not you have issues.


the ap has 6 gauges to view at once
1) what are the most important 6?
2) what is the ideal parameters for the 6 under wot?

logging you can only have 4 i think viewing?(somebody confirm?)
what are the 4 and what are the values under wot to be safe and the fastest?

 

When I start my new job I may actually have time to do such a spreadsheet to post I'll get started on it.

As for logging, the ecu is limited to how many bytes of data it can relay, which I believe is 56 bytes. The gauges are include in that. So the more gauges you are viewing, the less PIDS can be logged/recorded. If you need more space to record more data, you have to cut back on the number of gauges you're viewing.



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If its positive its the ecu adding timing so you have higher quality fuel so the ecu makes the most of it. And it really depends on the gas you are running to determine what corrections to make to the map!

To tune it to 0 you would have to raise the timing tables so it can always run with the added timing thus showing 0 correction. Still the same as long as its the same amount of timing. But in my opinion its always good to leave room for the ecu to make changes and add timing if the fuel quality allows it i would adjust the timing only if it was adding too much spark advance so it would have to make less corrections.

 

The log has Spark Ignition Correction 1 at +19.37, but I just noticed that it was on deceleration. At WOT I am getting +1.5 on the last log.

 

Interesting, what map is that? I never see anything but 0 when off the throttle. Is it consistent or one of those AP data packet spikes?


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That makes sense. Maybe Cobb and sct work a bit differently.


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Shooter how much timing/spark advance do you like to see in the upper RPM range?

 

I could write a book on that with what I know from past vehicles and what I've learned, and still learning, on the ST. The correct answer to that is this... you can keep adding timing and not see any negative effects such as knock, depending on your octane. However, at some point, adding more timing does not increase power and just puts more stress on the engine. The correct way is to be on a dyno, and add timing a little at a time and watch the power go up. When you get to the point that your adding timing but not seeing an increase in output, you've hit MBT and don't want to go any further than that. Go back to the last power increase timing and call it a day.

With that said, I've made it an adventure to use the track as my dyno, and watch for MPH increases along with datalogs to see where that point is for my car. My timing right now starts around 1.75* at 2400 rpm and makes a steady climb to 21* at 6200 rpm, including corrections. I can hold above 20 psi to 5000 rpm before it starts to fall more quickly, so that's where i focus my ignition advance. I got a tip from one calibrator that said to not push timing too hard where the turbo is doing the work. Makes sense based on the cylinder pressure principle. Just remember that the harder you push it, the closer you need to keep an eye on EVERYTHING!

Duster360, Alex, and Freek have been invaluable in helping me learn this ecu and the information/guidance they provided. Just search their posts, most of the answers are here.

 

Thanks for the response. I am just trying to get an idea how far everyone is pushing their tuning. I am at 14.5* at 6100, so I think I have some room left.

 

Use other peoples numbers with caution. I have a purchased map that runs less base timing and will show -3 and -4 cyl corrections. My map runs considerably more timing that the purchased map, and still shows +1 and +2 cyl corrections. This is on the same tank of 93. I could show you back to back logs that will make you scratch your head
It looks like Torrie is doing your tune so you shouldn't need to worry much, but there's more than just what the final values are. Which tables that are used to achieve those values seem to be playing a role. I would say more, but I'm still looking for answers!

 

On top of this you have to learn to interpret the data from the knock sensors correctly. You can calibration just how much timing is pulled based on the intensity of the knock the sensor pick up which can differ from tune to tune and may give you a skewed idea of how just how much much knock you are seeing.

Also remember that all motors do show some knock as some point. It's a matter of knowing what is acceptable and what isn't for your motor and situation.