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How to take and post datalogs on the forum

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95K views 373 replies 71 participants last post by  IHTFP08  
#1 · (Edited)
There aren't too many datalogs posted on the forum and one of the reasons for this is that the forum doesn't have native support for hosting the .csv file type and people are a little reluctant to log.

Here's a quick crash course on how to log and how to share/post these to generate discussion. You don't need ATR to download, view, and share logs. With a modified car, it is always good to periodically take logs and make sure there are no issues. This is also an excellent way to check how the tune you are running performing with your fuel and modifications.

1. First of all, make sure you have the correct map loaded on your AP and that you've driven the car with that map and the usual fuel you use for a good 20-40 miles to allow fuel trims to settle.
2. Set the correct logging parameters in the AP. We created a short video on how to change logging parameters for the AP V3. This is the same for the Focus or any other platform supported by the COBB AP V3.


COBB has also posted a number of useful videos. This following one is for the AP V2


3. A basic set of parameters to log are these:

Accelerator Pedal Position (The throttle pedal position. This is not the same as the throttle plate since the car is drive by wire. This is just what the driver is doing with the pedal)
Actual AFR (Yes the car comes with a stock wideband O2!. This is the actual AFR. Lower numbers are richer, higher numbers are leaner)
Airflow Mass (The Focus ST uses speed density to estimate actual mass airflow using its pre and post throttle pressure sensors. It is a calculation based on a model, not a direct measurement like MAF based cars)
Boost Pressure Actual (Boost measured at the manifold)
Charge Air Temp. – (CAT) (This is the temperature measured AFTER the intercooler before the throttle body. If too high power will be reduced and it tells you if your intercooler is overworked)
Coolant Temperature (Important for the car to be warm when logging. ECU applies compensations based on coolant temperature)
Engine Speed (Engine RPM)
ETC Actual Angle (The throttle plate position angle)
Fuel Rail Pressure Actual (What pressure the injectors are seeing. This is important that it stays constant at WOT around 2100-2200psi)
Ignition Timing Corr. Cyl (1-4) (This is where the ECU pulls timing mostly due to knock. If you see large negative corrections you need to adjust the tune for the fuel you are using)
Ignition Timing (Cyl 1) (This is the amount of timing advance currently running after all reductions are applied)
Load Actual (Amount of load the engine is seeing. This is related to airflow and engine speed and is used in a lot of engine calculations)
WGDC Actual (Wastegate Duty Cycle - this is what controls your boost pressure)
STFT (Short Term Fuel Trim - these are quickly changing corrections to the fueling mixture based on the feedback from the wideband O2)
LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim - these are learned correction factors based on feedback from the wideband O2)

A more advanced list is this:

- Accel Pedal Position
- Actual AFR
- Boost Pressure
- Charge Air Temp.
- Coolant Temp.
- ETC Angle Actual
- Engine RPM
- FRP Actual
- Ign Corr. Cyl1
- Ign Corr. Cyl2
- Ign Corr. Cyl3
- Ign Corr. Cyl4
- Ign Timing Cyl3
- LTFT
- Load Actual
- Oct Adj Ratio Lrn
- STFT
- WGDC Actual

A note on the parameters being logged. If you are logging all the ones in the advanced list make sure your display parameters are some of these. Adding additional display parameters that are not also logged will exceed the logging bandwidth for the AP and you will get an error to remove some parameters.

4. After setting the AP correctly, take the car to a safe, straight, long piece of road and set the AP to be ready to start logging. Get in 3rd gear or 4th gear and hold the RPMs steady at around 2500RPM.
5. Press the center button of the AP to start the log.
6. Floor the throttle and hold your foot down to redline.
7. Get off the throttle, slow down safely.
8. Stop the log by pressing the center button.

You can repeat steps 4-8 as many times as you like to take more logs.

Datalogs generated by the COBB AP are in the .csv format. This format is can be opened and viewed on your computer with a number of programs. The most popular are:
- Microsoft Excel
- Open Office
- You can upload these to your Google Drive and open them from there. Google Drive has built in support.

Using the AP Manager you can download these logs from your AP. Link to the AP manager below.

COBB Tuning - Ford Accessport V3

Now you want to share these. Simple stuff due to the number of cloud services available.

1. Get an account with Google Drive, Dropbox, etc. It's free and datalogs take very little space so you should have no problem hosing these. I will used Dropbox as an example.

https://www.dropbox.com/

2. Upload the log to your Public Folder on Dropbox.
3. Right click on the log and select -> Copy Public Link.

Paste that link in your thread on the forum like this:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/48912771/Focus ST Logs/2013 Focus Stage 1 93 LT 20130108.csv

Here's something else fun to do to check your performance. If you take logs on a nice, flat, stretch of road you can use these logs to estimate the power your car is making using a tool called Virtual Dyno which is actually free. This is a lot cheaper and if you are consistent can be an excellent tool to see what changes to your tune and hardware are doing:

http://www.virtualdyno.net/

A Vdyno sample below:



Done! Happy Logging and Sharing!
 
#231 ·
How long does it take to get your OAR learned to acceptable levels? I've changed my map and did a KAM reset. I've only driven the car for about 20 miles the past 2 days but it is still stuck at 0. I want to do some data logging but want to get the OAR learned to -1 first.
 
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#233 ·
I drove 5 miles to let the engine warm up first (with almost no boost) and the entire time the OAR was at 0. This is after a fresh ECU and KAM reset and then a new map flashed. After the engine was warmed up I shifted into 4th gear going about 40 MPH. I applied about 50% throttle to keep the boost about halfway up on the gage. When I reached 85 MPH I slowed down to 35 (still in 4th gear) and repeated the same process two more times. After the 3rd time my OAR was at -1. Total miles driven approx 20.
 
#234 ·
A full E85 tune will have three main problems:

1. You will run out of fuel too early since you need a lot more volume delivered with E85. You want to have a balance between airflow and timing and to fuel the airflow you need some fuel system headroom.
2. You will probably not gain much in performance going above a 30% blend.
3. It may cause corrosion and contamination of fuel system components.
 
#236 ·
Alex,

Thanks for the conversions for SCT-based tunes.

As I learn more about this and try to decipher my datalogs, I had some additional questions.

Since there are obviously conversions between some fields of SCT and AP generated datalogs are there some others?

Specifically:
Spark Advance
Knock Retard
Does 'spark ignition correction 1' translate to Ignition Timing Corr. Cyl 1?

If so, are the reported values expected to be the same between AP and SCT?

I have read in this thread and others that you don't want a negative number reported in the 'timing correction cyl' field.

I apologize for the n00b questions. I'm trying to learn and would like to be able to know at least the 'very bad things' to look for.

There is also the staggeringly likely chance that I am data-logging incorrectly and all the logs I am generating are of no use.
 
#245 ·
First off I'm a complete noob when it comes to ECU tuning. I had no idea what could be done just by flashing a different tune on a car. Picked up an AP3 and finally installed it and a new tune and want to learn more about this great tool. I've read through all the data logging threads and know more than I did but still have much to learn.

It might be nice to have a data logging 101 thread for beginners. This thread shows me how to take a log but not how to read it. Alex listed 15 things to monitor and a great description of what they are. Some are obvious but some like ETC Actual Angle I have no idea what is a good number. Another would be what to look for when looking at a map.


Anyways I have a couple of questions. Should I do a KAM reset? If I understand this correctly it will eventually adjust to the new tune, resetting the KAM just makes it happen quicker.

Normal or Sport mode make any difference?

For those of you that keep the AP on I'm curious what gauges you normally monitor and why.

Here's my first try. Probably 60 miles running the new tune. 37* mods are ic, cai and a catted dp. Started at 2500rpm 4th gear. Dry road but my skinny snow tires that are so good in the snow don't do nearly as well on dry pavement. Only got to 6000rpm before I had to slow down. Still need to find a good road to do this. Next time I'll try 3rd gear.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4gJJzGHprPGbzNTMGlfdXFlaEU/edit?usp=sharing
 
#247 ·
First off I'm a complete noob when it comes to ECU tuning. I had no idea what could be done just by flashing a different tune on a car. Picked up an AP3 and finally installed it and a new tune and want to learn more about this great tool. I've read through all the data logging threads and know more than I did but still have much to learn.

It might be nice to have a data logging 101 thread for beginners. This thread shows me how to take a log but not how to read it. Alex listed 15 things to monitor and a great description of what they are. Some are obvious but some like ETC Actual Angle I have no idea what is a good number. Another would be what to look for when looking at a map.

Normal or Sport mode make any difference?

Anyways I have a couple of questions. Should I do a KAM reset? If I understand this correctly it will eventually adjust to the new tune, resetting the KAM just makes it happen quicker.

For those of you that keep the AP on I'm curious what gauges you normally monitor and why.

Here's my first try. Probably 60 miles running the new tune. 37* mods are ic, cai and a catted dp. Started at 2500rpm 4th gear. Dry road but my skinny snow tires that are so good in the snow don't do nearly as well on dry pavement. Only got to 6000rpm before I had to slow down. Still need to find a good road to do this. Next time I'll try 3rd gear.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4gJJzGHprPGbzNTMGlfdXFlaEU/edit?usp=sharing
You definitely have some throttle closures in the log - likely due to loss of traction?

The corrections on Cyl1 indicate that you in this weather and on this fuel ... and on that cylinder you're in the correct timing ballpark. I strongly suggest logging all cylinder. For our car, cylinder 3 is the one that is most knock prone.
A KAM reset gives the ECU the chance to relearn the OAR parameter which matches the octane of fuel you are running to the map you are running. When tuning I don't clear this but I am aware of it and the compensations it adds. It's good to keep an eye on the OAR since it's a good indication of how well suited the map is to your fuel. A value of -1 indicates that it is adding timing to the base tables - in other words you're on higher octane than what the case tables call for and a 1 means the opposite. The OAR will vary from 1 to -1. Resetting it sets it to 0.

Sport mode changes the stability control program, not engine mapping.
 
#250 ·
#261 ·
#262 ·
I've tried the search function, read through a lot of posts and looked through Cobbstage website but can't seem to find where all of the access port parameter acronyms are defined. The acronyms thread in this forum address a few but not nearly all of the available choices in the AP. Anyone?
Thanks.
 
#274 ·
#277 ·
Aftermarket RMMs are unlikely to cause knock. Knock has a specific frequency. It requires metal hitting the engine block to even try to confuse the sensor. An RMM has a bushing in it and will not cause such rattling. I got this question a few times and I am not sure why people are assuming the RMM is causing false knock.
 
#278 ·
I hate to break it to you but after a lot of fuel test ign test I can tell you for fact that an Rmm can cause problems. I know because I had that exact issue. Ran 100 oct on a 91 too still had knock like 91 fuel. Pulled timing and still had knock. After a lot of trial and error as soon as I swapped back to the stock Rmm my car went back to adding timing and running fine. You may not think so but I have all the logs in the world to prove it.
 
#280 ·
Was the boomba. Send me your email I'll send you some logs when I get home. Not saying its for sure his issue but if he is using one 10 min swap will give him an answer. I know other have ran it np. Me on the other hand. What made me really start to think that way was after enough freeway logs I could notice knock correction as road got rougher. Run a rumble stop over and it would go nuts.
 
#281 ·
I'm curious about this as well; would you care to post it publically for future references? If there were more documented cases of this it might help people with this problem in the future. Also, who was doing your tuning?