How To: Make your ST3 seats more comfortable

jdub1981 · Sep 5, 2014

This mod is not for the faint of heart. It requires cutting away pieces of your original seating which you cant go back and reattach later. Ill be editing this post as I write it so please don't comment till it is done.

First, this idea is not all mine. I found this info here. http://www.focusst.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14996

Let me start by saying this, if you are overweight or have an extra large frame this may fix some of the issues with the seat but not all. I bought my 2013 ST as a 6' 290lb person. During the time of ownership ive dropped 70lbs but its still not enough to make thes seats comfortable.

Because the title of that thread does not represent this particular mod found somewhere on last couple of pages I thought I'd start a new post. This mod is incredibly simple if you have the right tools. 30-40 minutes per chair and that includes removal and replacement of the seat. I made a slight modification to that persons explanation to take into account the foam I purchased. Lets get started.

Tools needed: T50 Torx bit (socket type), 3/8" ratchet, 6" extension, 7mm socket, 3/8" to 1/4" converter, phillips head screw driver, flat head screwdriver, scissors, permanent marker, some kind of electric saw(recipricating or dremel tool type, hack saw with fine tooth blade)

Foam: $6.27 from Walmart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Morning-Glory-Foam-Seat-Cushions-4-Pack-16-L-x-16-W-x-1-H/19397511

For this tutorial we will start with the driver since that seat is powered and has more things to remove.

1. Start by pushing the seat as far forwards as it will go to expose the torx screws. Remove the 2 rear screws with your ratchet and T50 torx. Place the screws somewhere they wont get lost like the drink holder. Slide the seat all the way backwards and remove the forward 2 - T50 screws. Place in drink holder.
2. from the front, lean the seat straight back so you can expose the electrical connector on the bottom.

Using the 7mm socket unscrew the bolt in the middle of the harness. The bolt is captive so you need only unscrew it far enough to shimmy the connector off.
3. Remove the seat from interior of the car. I found this to be the easiest way.

slide back rest slightly out the back door. Lift up body of seat and gently rotate seat portion out the front door. Doing it this way ensure metal feet dont hit and rip any portion of your interior.

4a. From the rear bottom left side of the seat remove the single phillips head screw from the plastic guard.

4b. Gently tug the plastic away from the seat and push it down(towards the front of the seat) gently to unfasten it from the seat. Release the 4 seat direction plugs.

Dont worry about the order. They are keyed so they can only go back in one way.
5. Release the 5 cushion fasteners.

6. Flip the seat over (metal legs on the ground) and gently lift cushion from the front. You may need to wiggle it a bit on one side or the other to release the seat from the 2 hooks.

6. Now comes the fun part. Cut the plastic wings off as flush to the frame as you can. DO NOT remove the hooks.

7. Take the 2 wings and place them on one of the foam pieces. Trace it with a permanent marker and cut them out.

Place the foam plugs into the grooves in the seat cushion where the original plastic wings go.

8. Take second foam square and lay directly on metal seat. Remove enough foam from the square to make it lay flat.

9. Reattach seat to the hooks and reattach 5 cushion tabs back to seat frame.
Installation is the reverse of this procedure. 1 package of the above foam is enough to do both seats.

This is the best mod to date I have done and only makes the car more enjoyable.

jdub1981 · Sep 5, 2014

saved for later

Cookielol · Sep 5, 2014

Congrats on the weight loss. Im in a similar position, only have lost 30, but still! Im pretty sure I will have to do this on both seats as my GF and I are uhmm...from an athletic/bulky build and are in the process of becoming more healthy/trimmed. Either way im sure ill follow suit on this modification! Thanks for the write up and GREAT job on your lifestyle change!

jdub1981 · Sep 6, 2014

Its done.

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jdub1981 · Sep 5, 2014

Removed..

RocketST · Sep 6, 2014

Very nice work, jdub, and an excellent "how to". Much clearer than previous attempts. But then, we do stand on the shoulders of those that went before. JP

svenmanst · Sep 6, 2014

Great writeup! The only other thing I'd recommend is disconnecting the battery before undoing the electrical connectors on the seats. This is to avoid any noise in the airbag circuit when the connectors are disconnected and/or reconnected (since airbags are in seat). It would also prevent any error codes being thrown/logged should you accidentally turn on the ignition with the seat connectors not plugged in.

jdub1981 · Sep 6, 2014

Ahhh well I have the capability to fix ALL the codes should they pop up(none did btw). I wondered about the air bag ones but setting one off requires a bit more power than simple noise on the line when making a connection.

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SlimJim8804 · Sep 7, 2014

Very cool write-up.
Informative and innovative, nice work. Congrats on the weight loss too!

Unfitproduct · Sep 7, 2014

thank you for the write up!
RocketST get off my shoulders!

yoster · Sep 29, 2014

Does adding this extra layer of foam have any negative affect on our (already anemic) heated seats?

jdub1981 · Sep 29, 2014

No becase the foam you are adding goes between the metal frame and the lowest portion of the foam. The heating element is somewhere directly below the leather(im guessing). I never actually saw it in my disassembly.

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Bobman · Oct 26, 2014

Hi Jdub1981! Great mod, and I agree fully....best mod I have made so far too...of course, I have only owned my FST for 4 days! Seriously, I had test driven several over the last month or so before taking the leap, and had seen other posts of similar seat mods so I knew what to expect. The only thing I did differently from your mod was to simply drill out the 3 pop rivets that hold that plastic piece on, then removed the whole piece. I replaced it with a sheet of the foam and two smaller wing pieces just as you described. Took about 90 minutes to do both seats. Worked great, and this way if I want to sell the car to some skinny butted kid in a few years, they can put them back in if they wish.

Thanks for the inspiration!
Bobman

jdub1981 · Oct 26, 2014

Your welcome!

Tappin on a phablet 4

THNDRRR · Oct 26, 2014

Nice write-up, but more importantly, congrats on the weight loss !! That's awesome.

apex · Apr 3, 2015

Seriously valuable how to! Thanks for your contribution!!

Sudbury Nickel · Apr 3, 2015

Another option is to cut off the two plastic tabs and put them in the cushion instead of a piece of foam. I did this and it seems to let the bolster flex outward while still being a bit rigid. Had it for a few days now and very happy with this modification.

jdub1981 · Apr 4, 2015

Glad you liked it. Im thinking about doing a lumbar mod next. If you are interested in that let me know.

Tudball · Apr 21, 2015

So I just picked up a 2015 ST3 does anyone know if it's pretty much the same?

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Chef JPD · Apr 21, 2015

2015 recaros are identical to the 13-14.

yoster · Mar 25, 2016

Just to update this thread for visibility. The 2015+ Recaro's are in fact different than the 2013. The frame design (bottom rail) is completely different and then of course the pop rivets that the 2015's received.

Tudball · Apr 22, 2015

Awesome thank you! Think I might be doing it this weekend.

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AndrewOA · May 21, 2015

im doing this tomorrow to my 2014 FoST

Brognak · Jun 22, 2015

I just did this last Saturday to my drivers seat. Night and freakin day. My seats looked a bit different though, but super close. No cutting involved I just drilled out four pop rivets and had to relocate a wirekeeper then backfilled the voids with foam. Took some pictures for reference:

Red boxes show the pop rivets, two are hidden by the angle. Didn't have the two claw things mentioned in a post further up.

Bottom of pop rivets. Instead of drilling you can just cut the three "wings" off with some cutters and it should just fall out. If not may need to mash it up a bit with some pliers the holes are far larger than they needed to be:

jdub1981 · Jun 24, 2015

Brognak said:
I just did this last Saturday to my drivers seat. Night and freakin day. My seats looked a bit different though, but super close. No cutting involved I just drilled out four pop rivets and had to relocate a wirekeeper then backfilled the voids with foam. Took some pictures for reference:

Red boxes show the pop rivets, two are hidden by the angle. Didn't have the two claw things mentioned in a post further up.
View attachment 101562

Bottom of pop rivets. Instead of drilling you can just cut the three "wings" off with some cutters and it should just fall out. If not may need to mash it up a bit with some pliers the holes are far larger than they needed to be:
View attachment 101563

Your pictures are different than mine. It must be some difference in manufacturing because i dont have the rivits. The plastic on my is solid, most likely injection molded.

STmck · Jun 25, 2015

I believe is it the same piece and the rivets are in different locations. Check out my images below. The arrows in each images are pointing to the plastic "wings" we are trying to eliminate. So as I understand it after the rivets are removed, the whole plastic section comes out.

jdub1981 · Jun 25, 2015

Ahhh. I see. I assume that would make the seat cushion shorter.

Josh40601 · Jul 2, 2015

ordered the foam, going to get it this afternoon and doing this mod today as long as the rain holds off for a couple hours. Driving to Chicago tomorrow so I am really hoping this makes the seats perfect!

Can't believe I'm already cutting on a car that hasn't had its first oil change yet. lol

jdub1981 · Jul 2, 2015

I think im gonna order some real car sear foam and redo the mod this summer. While i have the seat out ill be adding a little something extra for comfort. More on that later.

Josh40601 · Jul 2, 2015

I noticed there wasn't pics or write up of the passenger seat. It works the same way, but there is a couple differences...

This has a little plastic cap that keeps a t30 that holds the adjuster handle

After removing the adjuster(just pull straight up away from the seat)

After removing the clips and stuff, and the side cover, there is this pad. I think this is the heater, but I still put my foam on top. I'll keep an eye on it, and post up if there are any weird smells

How To: Make your ST3 seats more comfortable

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