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Just bought a set of osram 35w ballasts and 66340hbi bulbs off of eBay without cables. $86 plus shipping


My question is will the stock cables work or not? They didn't look that expensive when I looked quickly online if I need to buy new ones.


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Just bought a set of osram 35w ballasts and 66340hbi bulbs off of eBay without cables. $86 plus shipping


My question is will the stock cables work or not? They didn't look that expensive when I looked quickly online if I need to buy new ones.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The stock cables won't, the connectors are indexed differently.


I went ahead with my install yesterday, but had no luck. Either I got 2 bad ballasts, 2 bad bulbs, or the ballast is pinned differently for input power (unlikely). My first guess is the bulbs, because the box they were shipped to me in was thoroughly crunched, and had been shaken around a lot.

 
I think I've figured out what the issue is. The ballasts I have (from an Edge/Explorer) need THREE wires on the input plug. Our cars have three pins, but only two of those are wired. So be careful, some ballasts have that third wire for what's called "remote trigger".

Another thing I found out was that you need a cable to run between the ballast and bulb, because the one for D3S is different than the D8S.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
I wonder if you could tap into the power line going to the ballast and have it kick on the remote one. I'm assuming that if the ST doesn't have a remote line like that, it probably just sends power when it turns on. Maybe worth a try?
 
I wonder if you could tap into the power line going to the ballast and have it kick on the remote one. I'm assuming that if the ST doesn't have a remote line like that, it probably just sends power when it turns on. Maybe worth a try?
I was thinking of trying that. I'd like to know where the remote signal comes from, and exactly what it is. I don't want to fry anything!
 
Well the initial ballasts that i purchased had 4 pins on the input side. Rather than try to figure out how to hack up the stock wiring harness I just decided to order the exact ballasts as Muddy has since it was plug and play.

Also struggled to find the ballast to bulb cables. I bought some on ebay that were labeled as D3S but they would not connect to my D3S bulbs. Grrr.

I finally found a ford oem part number DL3Z13A006D and have those on their way. These should work as they are for a Ford F150 which has a D3S bulb which I verified by looking up a replacement bulb for it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121320585840?redirect=mobile

My advice is to spend a bit more and look for a complete set exactly like Muddy has instead if trying to save money and piece it together.


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Did this myself today, after running into many of the same problems.

Ordered a set of ballasts on ebay, but they were the Remote Enable version so they didn't work.
Broke a pin off of the inside connection one of my my new Osram CBI d3s bulbs. Luckily i'm decent with a soldering iron and had the tip to solder it back on.

Today I got the correct ballasts in and all installed.

I again, used the soldering iron to melt away a corner of the factory bulb to ballast connectors to allow them to fit in the d3s sockets.
I did this because I didn't want to wait any longer, especially after the d3s cables I had ordered were incorrect, like the poster above...

All in all, a worth while upgrade over the stock d8s setup. It's brighter, but I can't say for sure yet as it's too foggy out right now to really test them.
 
Update on the output.

After properly aiming, I will say that the output seems to be about on par with the stock e46 m3 projectors I had on my old m3.
Cut off seems better with these cbi bulbs compared to stock, but not near as good as it would with a clear lens.
 
Well the initial ballasts that i purchased had 4 pins on the input side. Rather than try to figure out how to hack up the stock wiring harness I just decided to order the exact ballasts as Muddy has since it was plug and play.

Also struggled to find the ballast to bulb cables. I bought some on ebay that were labeled as D3S but they would not connect to my D3S bulbs. Grrr.

I finally found a ford oem part number DL3Z13A006D and have those on their way. These should work as they are for a Ford F150 which has a D3S bulb which I verified by looking up a replacement bulb for it.

Fordlincoln DL3Z13A006D Genuine Wire | eBay

My advice is to spend a bit more and look for a complete set exactly like Muddy has instead if trying to save money and piece it together.


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Did this myself today, after running into many of the same problems.

Ordered a set of ballasts on ebay, but they were the Remote Enable version so they didn't work.
Broke a pin off of the inside connection one of my my new Osram CBI d3s bulbs. Luckily i'm decent with a soldering iron and had the tip to solder it back on.

Today I got the correct ballasts in and all installed.

I again, used the soldering iron to melt away a corner of the factory bulb to ballast connectors to allow them to fit in the d3s sockets.
I did this because I didn't want to wait any longer, especially after the d3s cables I had ordered were incorrect, like the poster above...

All in all, a worth while upgrade over the stock d8s setup. It's brighter, but I can't say for sure yet as it's too foggy out right now to really test them.
Exactly this. I ran into the same problem with my second pair of ballasts, the fact that actual D3S cables are impossible to find. I'll be doing it with a soldering iron and a pencil dremel to make the stock wires work.


Same best advice to anyone else going after this: Buy ballasts that come with the wires (and the same part number ballasts Muddy got)


Another thing, my bulbs Philips xtreme vision) have an all metal base. The dremel still took care of making the notch, but it was more difficult than if it was plastic.
 
FYI I received my Ford OEM F150 D3S cables and they are the correct connection as I expected for both the Ballast and the Bulb. I have yet to attempt the install but I have all the parts ready to go and will report back if I run into any issues using these cables. Once again the part number for these is DL3Z13A006D and I got them for about $25 bucks each (wish the $5 ebay ones would have been correct...).

Hopefully Santa brings me a Dremel so I can finish both this project and the Fusion Projector Fog retrofit.
 
Here's some comparison shots I just took, with one headlight complete.

Low Beams only


High Beams



These were taken in the shade, on a bright and sunny day, against a white building. I'm pretty impressed by how noticeable the difference is, even in these conditions.
 
FYI I received my Ford OEM F150 D3S cables and they are the correct connection as I expected for both the Ballast and the Bulb. I have yet to attempt the install but I have all the parts ready to go and will report back if I run into any issues using these cables. Once again the part number for these is DL3Z13A006D and I got them for about $25 bucks each (wish the $5 ebay ones would have been correct...).

Hopefully Santa brings me a Dremel so I can finish both this project and the Fusion Projector Fog retrofit.
Interested to hear your results.
 
Here's some comparison shots I just took, with one headlight complete.

Low Beams only View attachment 78174

High Beams
View attachment 78175


These were taken in the shade, on a bright and sunny day, against a white building. I'm pretty impressed by how noticeable the difference is, even in these conditions.
If you wouold, please repost with night shots against a neutral color wall(concrete). This will help those that want to see the difference
 
Sorry guys, that's the only pictures I had time for! Both headlights are converted now, so more pictures wouldn't really mean anything without a before comparison. I'm very happy with the improvement after driving at dark with them for a few days. The difference for the high-beams was unexpectedly great :big smile:
 
DIY / How-to – ST3 HID Bulb Swap: D8S -->D3S

Well Santa did bring me that Dremel I was hoping for so I tackled this project today. The plastic retainers on the bulbs were the toughest part by far but just need to take your time and they will eventually unlock. I followed muddy's instructions for swapping out the ballasts and bulbs and had no issues with getting the bulbs to fire up. The Ford F-150 ballast to bulb cables that I mentioned in a previous post worked fine albeit a bit tough to connect to the bulb due to the limited space in the housing. It took some time to get them connected but they do work.

Moral of this project is as has been stated previously in this thread: Buy the exact same model number as the ballasts that muddy shows in his procedure and try to get a complete set with ballast to bulb cables. Will attempt to get some night pics but I can already tell that they are much brighter. Will not have before/after shots though...

Now onto the Fusion Projector Foglight / Morimoto 3K HID retrofit! (Currently in process!):smile:

Once again thanks to Muddy for doing the legwork on all his lighting threads.
 
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