Ford Focus ST Forum banner
21 - 40 of 40 Posts
It's been confirmed by graveyard pedal is 15+ and oem. So now I'm swapping out sensors on the pedal....or trying to anyway
Keep us in the loop. This is a weird issue that seems to pop up every once in awhile.
 
Problem: P08AA – Clutch Pedal Position Sensor Circuit High

Symptoms: Cannot use features like flat-foot shifting or launch control. Car can be started without clutch in. Clutch position sensor on my AP reads 67% clutch engagement with my foot off the clutch instead of 0%. Clutch position sensor reads 100% when pressed all the way in.

Happened after replacing the master cylinder over a year ago. I couldn’t get the clutch sensor to clip in, so I left it out for about 6 months before eventually getting under and putting it back in.

Tried: Cleared codes. Cleared KAM. Reset PCM the oldschool way. Reset PCM through ForScan. Replaced both clutch sensors on the pedal, (sensors that sense when the clutch is in or out, as well as the sensor on the master cylinder, as well as the entire master cylinder assembly itself, because at this point why not? Inspected the wiring for damage and found none.

I’m at a loss – is there something I am missing, like a clutch reset or re-learning procedure?
FOUND THE FIX!

Had the same issue with a friend that I work with. The pedal has 2 sensors a cruise control cancel and a clutch position 0 to 100% reading

So the issue is you can get a single master for these focus's from oriellys or where ever. If you do make sure there is a magnet in the master cylinder for the sensor. The one we got from oriellys didn't. And that's the whole issue.

So found this out be cause there is a sensor that just clips on to the master and it has to sense something!?

So find the old master and pull it out of the trash and a small piece of metal wire is stuck on the sensor side!

Take a small pocket screw driver to see if it gravitates to the new master... it doesn't.

So this is why some people are getting full pedal assemblys from ford and it fixes the issue.
Image

Image
 
FOUND THE FIX!

Had the same issue with a friend that I work with. The pedal has 2 sensors a cruise control cancel and a clutch position 0 to 100% reading

So the issue is you can get a single master for these focus's from oriellys or where ever. If you do make sure there is a magnet in the master cylinder for the sensor. The one we got from oriellys didn't. And that's the whole issue.

So found this out be cause there is a sensor that just clips on to the master and it has to sense something!?

So find the old master and pull it out of the trash and a small piece of metal wire is stuck on the sensor side!

Take a small pocket screw driver to see if it gravitates to the new master... it doesn't.

So this is why some people are getting full pedal assemblys from ford and it fixes the issue. View attachment 411585
View attachment 411584
I wish that was the case with mine. Mine came from the dealer, and is 2015+ currently I'm gonna try swapping out both sensors on the pedal, and if that doesnt work. I'll remove my battery again, ands check the plug for the magnet sensor. I also talked to ford, and they guy said they can adjust the sensors input? (for 30.00) so maybe its actually a manufacturing issue with the master cylinder magnet and needs to be calibrated with some new pedals?
 
I wish that was the case with mine. Mine came from the dealer, and is 2015+ currently I'm gonna try swapping out both sensors on the pedal, and if that doesnt work. I'll remove my battery again, ands check the plug for the magnet sensor. I also talked to ford, and they guy said they can adjust the sensors input? (for 30.00) so maybe its actually a manufacturing issue with the master cylinder magnet and needs to be calibrated with some new pedals?
I'm pretty sure the guy at Ford is full of it. I was all over IDS when I was doing mine and there was no calibration for the pedal. There isn't anything mechanical either.

The 2 switches and the sensor work together the upper switch senses 0 the sensor sweeps and the bottom switch senses 100.

When I was going through the issue you are my scan tool would be at 0 when I pressed the pedal I think it jumped to 66 or something like that. It stayed there until all the way down and read 100. When everything is working properly it sweeps from 0 to 100 flawlessly.

Here's another strike against a calibration or adjustment. The master I have in now is one from oreillys and didn't come with a magnet. I pulled the old one apart stole the magnet and glued it on the shaft of the new aftermarket one and it works perfect. Only did that because the pedal assembly was over a week out. Now I have a new pedal assembly as a back up.
 
I'm pretty sure the guy at Ford is full of it. I was all over IDS when I was doing mine and there was no calibration for the pedal. There isn't anything mechanical either.

The 2 switches and the sensor work together the upper switch senses 0 the sensor sweeps and the bottom switch senses 100.

When I was going through the issue you are my scan tool would be at 0 when I pressed the pedal I think it jumped to 66 or something like that. It stayed there until all the way down and read 100. When everything is working properly it sweeps from 0 to 100 flawlessly.

Here's another strike against a calibration or adjustment. The master I have in now is one from oreillys and didn't come with a magnet. I pulled the old one apart stole the magnet and glued it on the shaft of the new aftermarket one and it works perfect. Only did that because the pedal assembly was over a week out. Now I have a new pedal assembly as a back up.
How did you take it apart and what kind of glue did you use im on the same boat and they wont take my return back so I want to just take the maget off the old model and install in the new one
 
How did you take it apart and what kind of glue did you use im on the same boat and they wont take my return back so I want to just take the maget off the old model and install in the new one
If I remember correctly I had to spread each one of the clips that hold it together then pull it apart.

I just used crazy glue.

If you're not in a rush you can get the whole pedal assembly from Tasca pretty cheap.
 
How did you take it apart and what kind of glue did you use im on the same boat and they wont take my return back so I want to just take the maget off the old model and install in the new one
Mine has the magnet. Did the one you got come with the sensor attached to the master cylinder? If not then it's the 13-14 without the magnet.
 

Attachments

Mine has the magnet. Did the one you got come with the sensor attached to the master cylinder? If not then it's the 13-14 without the magnet.
Mine did not come with a sensor. According to other places online it's hard to get 15+ with the sensor so you have to move yours over. And graveyard performance confirmed it was a 2015+ master cylinder
 
So I now have a clutch master cylinder leak ... Maybe the cold had something to do with it. 🙁

I can see why it's confusing...
2 different ones show for the ST on this site.
Edit eBay says they both fit too 🙄.

BV6Z-7519-AR shows all Foci incl ST
BUT

DV6Z-7519-A shows for ONLY ST.
So the 2nd one seems more likely?!

Hydraulic System for 2016 Ford Focus | Ted Britt Parts
 
So I now have a clutch master cylinder leak ... Maybe the cold had something to do with it. 🙁

I can see why it's confusing...
2 different ones show for the ST on this site.
Edit eBay says they both fit too 🙄.

BV6Z-7519-AR shows all Foci incl ST
BUT

DV6Z-7519-A shows for ONLY ST.
So the 2nd one seems more likely?!

Hydraulic System for 2016 Ford Focus | Ted Britt Parts
AR is the replacement part number for A

AR is the one Tasca sent me and it is 100% the correct one.
 
I know this is an old thread but there isn't much info on this issue.

The problem usually occurs after replacing the master cylinder with an aftermarket one. While they do have the spot to snap on the old position sensor on they do not have a magnet on the shaft to make the sensor work.

The code that's listed P08AA has nothing at all to do with the 2 switches inside on the pedal it's the sensor on the end of the master cylinder in the engine bay.

Hope this helps someone that is pulling their hair out.
So nobody should get the one from AutoZone that's more readily available I suppose is this lesson?

CM1493

The pic even has the old style plastic
Image
shaft 🙄
 
People in a hurry to fix their car will do the job twice if they first use just the aftermarket master cylinder and want their car to work right.

I wound up driving to a dealer the next town over because the local parts dept was closed Monday after Christmas. Got it the next day, but paid $150 for it.
They are not as accommodating matching online prices here. 😕
 
So. Just to update. I bought the RS master cylinder. The car starts with the clutch now instead of holding both break and start button. Cruise control now works. I can full throttle the entire rpm range. But. I still have the code P08AA. Which leads me to believe it's unrelated to the sensor on the master cylinder, because swapping that one part is what fixed all of my problems, yet the code is still persistent. The battery was removed for 14 hours. I used the Cobb to reset my codes and KAM, and even reset the ECU. I'm going to be buying an electronic diagram for my car and I'll have my cousin test what ever he needs to in order to figure out why and how this code appears.
 
21 - 40 of 40 Posts