I'm going to try to document my 2014 Transit Connect's conversion from the stock 2.5L Duratec engine and 6F35 automatic to a shift-it-yourself 2.0L EcoBoost. I've got a bunch of placeholders below, and will gradually fill them in and add pictures and parts information documenting the build. I'm still trying to figure out how best to organize all the info here--if stuff isn't making sense or you have any suggestions, speak up. Especially if you see me heading toward a dead end--I'd appreciate the help, or at least knowing you're enjoying watching the train wreck.
![395564]( "395564")
The Engine
This was perhaps the easiest part selection task. I didn't want an engine from an ST for a few of reasons: the much higher likelihood it would have been modded, I didn't want a sound symposer (nowhere to connect it), and they're a lot more expensive than otherwise identical engines from other vehicles. So first-generation 2.0L EcoBoost from an Escape it is, 2013-2016, so long as it was built before the switch to the twin scroll turbo in late 2015.
I did consider the twin-scroll engines, including the 2.3L used in the MKC, Mustang, Ranger, Explorer, etc. Of course, I'd need a PCM that would work--only the Mustang has a manual transmission, and the wiring harness layout is quite different. I'm sure it could be done, but it would be a lot more work. Keep in mind where I'm starting--it's a 2014 2.5L with over 160,000 miles on it. When new, peak wheel horsepower was about 130, with about 120 lb-ft of torque (with a fairly flat curve to be sure--most of that available from 3K RPM to the redline). The first-generation EcoBoost would put me at 252 crank hp, 274 lb-ft of torque, without the losses suffered going through an automatic. Considering that torque is far more readily available at typical cruising speeds, we're talking on the order of triple the under-foot reaction. An extra 50-100 hp isn't trivial, but it's definitely diminishing return territory.
The engine I purchased was a 2013, with 67,000 miles on it. Cost: $435
Transmission
At the other end of the spectrum, the transmission decision was the product of far more research than I really want to admit. I started with my spreadsheet with gear ratios and wheel speed calculations that's nearly a decade old--when the ST hadn't yet hit dealer lots, and I was comparing it to gear ratios on my Mazda6 and Taurus SHO. At the time, I thought the ST could have used taller gearing in general, and even after driving one, I didn't change my mind.
That spreadsheet considered 28 different transmissions, all capable of bolting up directly to the EcoBoost engine. It includes a few automatics, where I was getting a feel for how Ford geared the engine in the Escape, Explorer, and Taurus, as well as a number of foreign market variants mated to various tiny diesels abroad. The first two most obvious candidates were the ST's MMT6, and the MTX75 used in the base Focus. Overall, I like the MTX75 better, but would have likely gotten terrible fuel economy and tired of the fast-revving engine with the gear ratios it shipped with. For reference, the ST's MMT6 would put me at just under 3000 RPM in 6th, the base Focus's 5-speed would have the engine at almost 3300 RPM. It's not crazy high, less than 100 RPM higher than my Mazda6's V6, but like that setup, a taller top gear would have netted better fuel economy without necessitating tons of downshifts in highway driving.
I'll spare all of the details, but I ended up getting an MTX75, but not from a 2012+ Focus. Enter the MTX75 from the 2004-2005 2.3L PZEV Duratec Focus, with a taller 5th gear and final drive ratio. That same 80mph cruising speed will now be at under 2800 RPM--still quite a bit higher than in the Escape with the 6-speed auto, and I wouldn't have to have it shipped in from somewhere in Europe. First through fourth gears have the same ratios as the base 2012+ Focus, so with the taller final drive max speed in gear goes up by 4, 7, 11,15, and 29 mph. All good so far. Relative to the MMT6, first gear is just barely taller, second picks up 5 mph (getting comfortably past 60 with one shift), and overall they're spaced a lot more evenly. I also couldn't decide whether Ford really thinks it's OK to flat tow the MMT6 (i.e. behind a motorhome). Some do, the owner's manual doesn't distinguish between the two manuals, but the towing guide doesn't list the ST as being flat towable. Kind of like where I was trying to figure out how big the ST's fuel tank was as they were starting to hit dealer lots.
Another local salvage yard purchase, I got the PZEV MTX75 for $350.
Update: After running into the shift cables and exhaust trying to occupy the same space, I decided to take a step back and get an MMT6. Found one from an '18 with low mileage for $500, plus $100 for ST axles and another $150 or so for freight.
Axles
Back to easier stuff--we need MTX75 axles for the Focus. Junk yard axles weren't available in good shape particularly close, which meant that shipping or going to get them just about wiped out the price difference between them and OE Ford axles. The two together came in just over $200.
Unless I see something that doesn't match up, the plan is to use the same jackshaft bearing bracket and retainer as is on the existing van.
Update: See above about switching to the MMT6. The jackshaft bearing and mounting bracket are shifted by a couple of inches on the axles for the base Focus, and the mounting bracket from the 2.5L doesn't have corresponding holes on the 2.0L EB block. Changed course to ST axles and jackshaft mounting bracket--it's also worth noting that the ST axles are significantly larger in diameter than the ones for the base Focus.
Flywheel and Clutch Kit
Stock ST flywheel and clutch kit, but standard Focus slave cylinder. One from a 2012+ or an older one would appear to work, though they're different parts. Using the part listed for an '04, as it has a bleeder and doesn't require pressure bleeding. New Ford pressure plate and flywheel bolts (the flexplate bolts on the donor engine aren't the right ones).
Update: Could have had a big mess on my hands here. I knew I needed longer flywheel bolts, and went straight to the dealer for them. The part number that shows up got me bolts that were too long, which I found out when the motor wouldn't turn after they were torqued to spec--just the right length that they bottomed out as they were tightening up. Confirmed the part number at another dealer, then went online and found the right ones myself. I'll eventually come back through here with the part numbers once I get everything organized.
Pedal Assemblies
Stock ST brake and clutch pedal assemblies. Keeping the TC's accelerator pedal. Stop lamp switch is the same whether manual or automatic. Have yet to do the wiring for the bottom-of-travel switch and the clutch position switch. The plan is to repurpose one of the wires that runs from the automatic's shift lever through to the battery junction box for the bottom-of-travel switch to keep it clean. The normally closed contacts of the CPP switch will just connect inline with the brake switch contacts that go to the PCM so that pressing the clutch interrupts cruise control as it should.
I did have to remove the plastic dead pedal attached to the carpet on the Transit Connect. The clutch pedal clears it just fine, but it would have required an awkward extension of the ankle to push it to the floor. Taking that out and replacing the TC floor mats with ones from a Focus took care of that.
M8x1.25 Flange Nuts
Clutch Hoses
3 parts needed here,all from the base Focus. Two of 3 are common to base and ST, but the line with the bleeder valve is unique to the ST. Should have them in hand by the end of the week. The port on the side of the brake fluid reservoir is already there on the TC, so once I figured out what to buy, this looks fairly easy.
Shifter Assembly
There has never been a manual shifter for the Transit Connect offered in the US, so off to eBay to find one from Lithuania. Needed to be the 5-speed, and I needed shifter cables with it. Everything there checks out so far, fishing the cables through the floor opening was straightforward, but a pain.
![395575]( "395575")
Wiring Harness and Modifications
PCM
The TC and Escape use a different form factor than the Focus, both with more total pins.
PCM "Bracket" and Cover
Purge Valve
Low-Side Fuel Pressure Sensor
This was a bit of a "gotcha." When I was working through my spreadsheet and going over wiring diagrams, I'd assumed that all of the connectors on the engine harness connected to stuff on the engine. That was almost the case--one connector was on the intercooler (which I caught and was obvious), and another was on the metal fuel line at the firewall (uh-oh). It took me a bit to figure out what I was missing, and a quick look under the hood of the base Focus sitting in the driveway confirmed the worst--the sensor screws into a port on the combination fuel line/brake line assembly that runs all the way to the rear axle. The sensor has 1/8" NPS threads (not the much more common tapered pipe threads), and the fuel line is 5/16" SAE quick disconnects--so I've used a combination of fittings (QD-to-AN6 adapters) to get what I needed. Details once it's all together.
Cooling System
There's enough going on with the cooling system that I'm going to give it its own post, and link to it from here. To make a long story short, it's mostly ST pieces, plus capping off an extra port on the existing radiator.
Heater hose connector & cap
Air Induction
Exhaust
Other Stuff
Brake booster vacuum line
Ambient temperature sensor
Floor mats
Yazaki electrical contacts
The Engine
This was perhaps the easiest part selection task. I didn't want an engine from an ST for a few of reasons: the much higher likelihood it would have been modded, I didn't want a sound symposer (nowhere to connect it), and they're a lot more expensive than otherwise identical engines from other vehicles. So first-generation 2.0L EcoBoost from an Escape it is, 2013-2016, so long as it was built before the switch to the twin scroll turbo in late 2015.
I did consider the twin-scroll engines, including the 2.3L used in the MKC, Mustang, Ranger, Explorer, etc. Of course, I'd need a PCM that would work--only the Mustang has a manual transmission, and the wiring harness layout is quite different. I'm sure it could be done, but it would be a lot more work. Keep in mind where I'm starting--it's a 2014 2.5L with over 160,000 miles on it. When new, peak wheel horsepower was about 130, with about 120 lb-ft of torque (with a fairly flat curve to be sure--most of that available from 3K RPM to the redline). The first-generation EcoBoost would put me at 252 crank hp, 274 lb-ft of torque, without the losses suffered going through an automatic. Considering that torque is far more readily available at typical cruising speeds, we're talking on the order of triple the under-foot reaction. An extra 50-100 hp isn't trivial, but it's definitely diminishing return territory.
The engine I purchased was a 2013, with 67,000 miles on it. Cost: $435
1S7Z-6340-AA | Oil filter mount gasket |
Transmission
At the other end of the spectrum, the transmission decision was the product of far more research than I really want to admit. I started with my spreadsheet with gear ratios and wheel speed calculations that's nearly a decade old--when the ST hadn't yet hit dealer lots, and I was comparing it to gear ratios on my Mazda6 and Taurus SHO. At the time, I thought the ST could have used taller gearing in general, and even after driving one, I didn't change my mind.
That spreadsheet considered 28 different transmissions, all capable of bolting up directly to the EcoBoost engine. It includes a few automatics, where I was getting a feel for how Ford geared the engine in the Escape, Explorer, and Taurus, as well as a number of foreign market variants mated to various tiny diesels abroad. The first two most obvious candidates were the ST's MMT6, and the MTX75 used in the base Focus. Overall, I like the MTX75 better, but would have likely gotten terrible fuel economy and tired of the fast-revving engine with the gear ratios it shipped with. For reference, the ST's MMT6 would put me at just under 3000 RPM in 6th, the base Focus's 5-speed would have the engine at almost 3300 RPM. It's not crazy high, less than 100 RPM higher than my Mazda6's V6, but like that setup, a taller top gear would have netted better fuel economy without necessitating tons of downshifts in highway driving.
I'll spare all of the details, but I ended up getting an MTX75, but not from a 2012+ Focus. Enter the MTX75 from the 2004-2005 2.3L PZEV Duratec Focus, with a taller 5th gear and final drive ratio. That same 80mph cruising speed will now be at under 2800 RPM--still quite a bit higher than in the Escape with the 6-speed auto, and I wouldn't have to have it shipped in from somewhere in Europe. First through fourth gears have the same ratios as the base 2012+ Focus, so with the taller final drive max speed in gear goes up by 4, 7, 11,15, and 29 mph. All good so far. Relative to the MMT6, first gear is just barely taller, second picks up 5 mph (getting comfortably past 60 with one shift), and overall they're spaced a lot more evenly. I also couldn't decide whether Ford really thinks it's OK to flat tow the MMT6 (i.e. behind a motorhome). Some do, the owner's manual doesn't distinguish between the two manuals, but the towing guide doesn't list the ST as being flat towable. Kind of like where I was trying to figure out how big the ST's fuel tank was as they were starting to hit dealer lots.
Another local salvage yard purchase, I got the PZEV MTX75 for $350.
Update: After running into the shift cables and exhaust trying to occupy the same space, I decided to take a step back and get an MMT6. Found one from an '18 with low mileage for $500, plus $100 for ST axles and another $150 or so for freight.
Axles
Back to easier stuff--we need MTX75 axles for the Focus. Junk yard axles weren't available in good shape particularly close, which meant that shipping or going to get them just about wiped out the price difference between them and OE Ford axles. The two together came in just over $200.
Unless I see something that doesn't match up, the plan is to use the same jackshaft bearing bracket and retainer as is on the existing van.
Update: See above about switching to the MMT6. The jackshaft bearing and mounting bracket are shifted by a couple of inches on the axles for the base Focus, and the mounting bracket from the 2.5L doesn't have corresponding holes on the 2.0L EB block. Changed course to ST axles and jackshaft mounting bracket--it's also worth noting that the ST axles are significantly larger in diameter than the ones for the base Focus.
AG91-3K305-A | Carrier bearing bracket |
TX613 | Focus ST Right axle |
710808 | Output shaft seal (used on MMT6) (2) |
Flywheel and Clutch Kit
Stock ST flywheel and clutch kit, but standard Focus slave cylinder. One from a 2012+ or an older one would appear to work, though they're different parts. Using the part listed for an '04, as it has a bleeder and doesn't require pressure bleeding. New Ford pressure plate and flywheel bolts (the flexplate bolts on the donor engine aren't the right ones).
Update: Could have had a big mess on my hands here. I knew I needed longer flywheel bolts, and went straight to the dealer for them. The part number that shows up got me bolts that were too long, which I found out when the motor wouldn't turn after they were torqued to spec--just the right length that they bottomed out as they were tightening up. Confirmed the part number at another dealer, then went online and found the right ones myself. I'll eventually come back through here with the part numbers once I get everything organized.
07-235 | LuK Clutch Kit |
W0133-2032752 | ST Flywheel |
8G9Z-00812-A | ST Flywheel bolts (6) |
W702426-S303 | Pressure plate bolts (6) |
Pedal Assemblies
Stock ST brake and clutch pedal assemblies. Keeping the TC's accelerator pedal. Stop lamp switch is the same whether manual or automatic. Have yet to do the wiring for the bottom-of-travel switch and the clutch position switch. The plan is to repurpose one of the wires that runs from the automatic's shift lever through to the battery junction box for the bottom-of-travel switch to keep it clean. The normally closed contacts of the CPP switch will just connect inline with the brake switch contacts that go to the PCM so that pressing the clutch interrupts cruise control as it should.
I did have to remove the plastic dead pedal attached to the carpet on the Transit Connect. The clutch pedal clears it just fine, but it would have required an awkward extension of the ankle to push it to the floor. Taking that out and replacing the TC floor mats with ones from a Focus took care of that.
CV61-7B633-GA | ST Clutch Pedal |
CV61-2467-CB | ST Brake Pedal |
4M5Z-11A152-A/SW-6490 | Clutch pedal switch |
M8x1.25 Flange Nuts
Clutch Hoses
3 parts needed here,
CV6Z-6B851-Q | Hose (rigid hose from clutch master to firewall?) |
CV6Z-7T504-A | Hose from brake master to clutch master |
CV6Z-7A512-B | Tube |
DV6Z-7A512-B | Tube |
Shifter Assembly
There has never been a manual shifter for the Transit Connect offered in the US, so off to eBay to find one from Lithuania. Needed to be the 5-speed, and I needed shifter cables with it. Everything there checks out so far, fishing the cables through the floor opening was straightforward, but a pain.
DV6R-7E395, DV6R-7C453-LAA | TC 5-speed shifter and cables |
CV6R-7E395-UA | ST shifter cables |
Wiring Harness and Modifications
PCM
The TC and Escape use a different form factor than the Focus, both with more total pins.
PCM "Bracket" and Cover
Purge Valve
CP940 | Purge valve |
Low-Side Fuel Pressure Sensor
This was a bit of a "gotcha." When I was working through my spreadsheet and going over wiring diagrams, I'd assumed that all of the connectors on the engine harness connected to stuff on the engine. That was almost the case--one connector was on the intercooler (which I caught and was obvious), and another was on the metal fuel line at the firewall (uh-oh). It took me a bit to figure out what I was missing, and a quick look under the hood of the base Focus sitting in the driveway confirmed the worst--the sensor screws into a port on the combination fuel line/brake line assembly that runs all the way to the rear axle. The sensor has 1/8" NPS threads (not the much more common tapered pipe threads), and the fuel line is 5/16" SAE quick disconnects--so I've used a combination of fittings (QD-to-AN6 adapters) to get what I needed. Details once it's all together.
Cooling System
There's enough going on with the cooling system that I'm going to give it its own post, and link to it from here. To make a long story short, it's mostly ST pieces, plus capping off an extra port on the existing radiator.
24398 | Upper radiator hose |
KM5279 | Coolant hose (overflow to oil cooler) |
Heater hose connector & cap
Air Induction
CX2493 | MAP Sensor (intercooler) |
Exhaust
CV6Z-5A231-C | Exhaust clamp (downpipe/turbo) |
36535 | Exhaust clamp (muffler) |
Other Stuff
HA113609C | Suction hose |
EM4110 | Torque Strut mount |
CV6Z-8B081-Z/KM-5456 | Hose |
CV6Z-14300-AB/WC-96341 | Positive battery/starter/alternator cable |
Ambient temperature sensor
Floor mats
Yazaki electrical contacts
