First update since installing the NGK LTR7IX-11(one step colder plugs). Drove to work, 40kms of mixed driving(highway and residential) and the car didn't pull any timing over more than two cylinders. This is a huge improvement as I nearly always got timing pulled(still on same map), even 0.5deg over more than two on a normal driving cycle. Further more, I hit my highest load ever of 2.5 in 4th gear. Stoked I'm at 13deg timing @redline(coast). Now I can take some logs and see where I can push the bar some more.

Stock plugs #LTR6DI-8 / CYFSI2Y2 (I take it this is an NGK plug, rebranded as Ford)

Cheers

 

Was that cylinder 3 and 4 that the ECU was pulling timing from?

I always see -1.00 to -4.00 on these cylinders. It only happens on the first flooring of the throttle and seems to settle after that. I might try colder plugs to see what happens.

Aanybody knows the recovery rate of the timing beiing pulled in these. Stock VS FSW?

 

I use to monitor all four cyl corr. I deducted over time that if you see timing being pulled on 1+2 or 3+4 then you are pulling timing as long as both are in the minus.

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So would u guys recommend that i run these plugs with my 7670 kit ?? Im told yes and than my tuner from tr3 says ill be fine.. Id rather be safe tho but need to know

 

I'd go 2 steps colder. I envy you for the 7670. Have you got it yet?

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Correct, but going with a large turbo and pushing nearly 450hp+ id go 2 steps colder. 7670 is rated 400-650hp.

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Yeah but he's going to need a fueling solution before he can get there.

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There's always go to be a tradeoff. I don't think you'll "need" 2 step colder plugs at 400hp but we'll have to get there to see first. The colder you go the poorer your low load driveability sometimes results in misfires.

Also, in terms of knock, keep in mind that there are a lot of environmental variables that affect the knock threshold and this will change from one drive to another. This is why the car has knock sensors. Sometimes the sensors themselves pick up noise (they are just microphones that are filtered for certain frequencies around cylinders firing) and interpret it as knock. When observing changes especially at part throttle you have to observe these over the long term; not just a single drive cycle.

 

You seem to know your ****... Interesting info.

 

Im only gonna be running around 320whp for now with my kit and i called chris and they have just started it

 

Ordered the NGK's one step colder. I'll do various logged runs with both stock and 1 step colder for both regular and aggressive tunes and report my findings. Unfortunately I will have to use the used plugs vs. new plugs but not a scientist either so it will have to do.

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I did a couple of wots since installing the ngk one step colder plugs. No timing being pulled with the one step colder plugs on same map that use to pull timing @wot. Same road and amb temps and same 91oct brand used in my tests. Im in the same boat as ST_FAN with used oem plugs vs ngk one step. My oem plugs are 18000kms old.

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I figure if a few of us report similar results should be good proof.

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If i get theses ngks do they have to be gapped?

 

All plugs need to be gapped no matter what.. Yes they are pregapped but you will need to check it..:smile:

Edit: Just to be clear, NGK does not recommend to regap these plugs. The gap I believe should be somewhere around .26-.28 from factory but if you find that one of the plugs gap is off or fell on the ground and gap is different, just don't pry against the electrode as it could break.. Not saying you didn't know but just putting this out there in case others didn't know.

 

So whats the recommended gap for our cars?

 

I will have a friend check it or advance auto

 

Thanks alot... So having a bigger turbo setup doesnt change how the plug should be gapped?? Stock is a certain gap but jw if a bigger turbo would require a diff gap ?

 

0.028 –0.031 in (.7 –.8 mm) per Focus ST Workshop Manual.

 

So should i run ngk plugs 1 step colder on my kit even tho its not tuned with them? Or should tr3 buy a set to get it rite

 

I would think TR3 would want to tune with the colder plugs..

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Yea i know rite but he says i dont need plugs.. Id rather be safe than sorry

 

I have been testing 1 step colder with and without a tune and they work great either way.

 

So even tho ill have a bigger turbo setup itll be fine to run the ngk if tr3 doesnt tune my car for them? It wont screw up my air/fuel?

 

correct

 

Don't be afraid to drop the gap close to 0.026" especially if you notice any sort of misfiring under boost. As boost goes up, WMI or E85 is used, etc. the mixture density increases. The spark could be blown out under these conditions causing misfires so if you experience this narrow the gap a little.

 

I dont run wmi or e85.. My turbo is gonna be pushing only 12-13 psi lol

 

I assume this is an upgraded turbo? When running a bigger turbo you push a lot more air through the motor at a lower boost. This increased airflow and the fuel required to meet AFR targets is what increases the charge density.

 

What is the gap of ngk's ?

 

This one..

 

So are the NGK LTR7IX-11 one step colder than our stock plugs?

I think I am going to go one step colder when I do the "stage 1" tune.

 

Yes

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FWIW, my local NAPA had these in stock for $9.29/ea.
Don't know if I'm going to try them now or when I put on the GTX, but I wanted to grab them while they had them.



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Lots of good info in this thread! Thanks for joining in Alex!!

 

I realize the catalyst temp is a calculated value but I am seeing a near 450° difference no-tune vs tuned (both with a catted 3"dp), on OE plugs. I will be monitoring this value with the one step colder NGKs to see if that calculated temp deviates from my observed maximum values at all.

I realize it's not a thermocouple, but I wonder how accurate it is.

 

Its been covered already, i know, but people that have tunes, running the cooler plug would be a smart thing to do, correct?

 

So what has everyone been purchasing after or before a bigger turbo upgrade? Link anyone plz?