Its probably pretty safe to say that the spark plugs were probably not changed during the model year. I suspect that The Denso ITV22's show up in the cross reference only because they fit (not because the are the same heat range) and because ebay advertisements are more vague about products. But just to be safe, I'm going to try and find out exactly what you get with that ford racing tune package.

 

PLEASE!

I was going to just try the 24's first. I guess worst case they foul out.

 

I installed 22's in my car today. The thread is the same length with a little larger taper. Gap is 0.031" or 0.8 mm. The insulator on the 22 is 0.325" and the insulator on the stock plug is 0.500" Shorter insulator cooler plug. My oil temp gauge stood in between the 1/4 and 1/2 way mark after spirited driving. With stock plugs it stood at 1/2 when fully warm. I think it's safe to say the 22 is one step cooler all data I've found seems to point that way.

 

I installed 22's in my car today. The thread is the same length with a little larger taper. Gap is 0.031" or 0.8 mm. The insulator on the 22 is 0.325" and the insulator on the stock plug is 0.500" Shorter insulator cooler plug. My oil temp gauge stood in between the 1/4 and 1/2 way mark after spirited driving. With stock plugs it stood at 1/2 when fully warm. I think it's safe to say the 22 is one step cooler all data I've found seems to point that way.

View attachment 25569

Awesome info! Thanks for taking the measurements!!

I called Ford Racing and couldn't get any info on what plugs came with the kit (other than "colder") as it is not released yet and I doubt they will say anyway.

 

well then for the guys going big turbo looking for 100+hp over stock the ITV24 might be the right plug then....

FROM CAR CRAFT
Test and Evaluate

With a new or unknown combination, play it safe. Always start at least 1-2 heat ranges on the cold size of the mean heat-range for the series of plug you are running. At worst, you may experience some plug fouling. On the other hand, a plug that’s too hot can cause detonation and damage the engine.

Determining the optimum heat range is a trial-and-error process. You run the car, then “read” the plugs by closely inspecting and analyzing the condition of the plug tip and insulator. Once you find the correct heat range that prevents fouling without contributing to pre-ignition or detonation, changing to a hotter or colder plug won’t alter engine performance. Set up the engine for optimum air/fuel ratio and timing first, then fine-tune plug heat range. Reading plugs on the street is not the same as in racing. On the street, as mileage piled up, a properly burning plug traditionally had a clearly visible brown or grayish-tan color.

Today’s pump gas may use additives that cause a discoloration of the plug core nose; they could be pink, purple, or blue. Do not consider this coloration as an indication of heat range when reading spark plugs.

Dual-purpose street/strip machines rank among the toughest cases for determining proper plug heat-range selection. They spend weekdays under stop-and-go driving conditions, with occasional full-throttle acceleration runs. It is hard to select one heat-range that provides optimum plug performance under all conditions.

Read more: Spark Plugs Fact and Fiction- Car Craft Magazine



Read more: Spark Plugs Fact and Fiction- Car Craft Magazine

 

go46ball all of us btk guys are going to be pushing 100+ whp more than stock, given the stock motor puts out around 215whp ish. Until we get some fuel options we are going to be limited to around 330whp is give or take. I am going to start with the ITV24's and see how they run.

 

RIGHT.

this is the point I am making...ITV24's might end up being the correct heat range for where we are shooting to end up.....

That is why I am also going to throw the ITV24s in this week and see what happens...

 

Im very glad people are doing this type of testing.. Im gonna need this soon when install my kit

 

So would 1 step colder with the 22's be appropriate with just an aftermarket tune?

 

We need to do some more testing before we can see how necessary the 1 step colder plugs are for just a tune and bolt-ons.

 

I just received a set of Denzo ITV24's, not even close to the same size as stock, much shorter plug all the way around. Did not install.

 

Same here, I think it is definitely the ITV22 for one step colder.

Wes

 

here is the beginning of my testing.

 

Itv22 is one step cooler than stock

 

correct

 

That idk lol thats y im relying on other ppl who know more bout this stuff than me to test them out

 

Here are some comparison pictures for the ITV20 (stock heat range), ITV22 (one step colder), and ITV24 (two step colder). Like Skizzo81 was noting in his video, you can see how the colder the plug gets the shorter the ceramic insulator is.

Thanks Skizzo81 for doing the testing on these!

 

no problem thanks for the shirts. I will be updating as soon as I get more miles put on the car.

 

Thanks to all of you! I tried finding the colder plug over the summer to see if it would get rid of the last -1 degree of timing being pulled at 24psi. Definitely will try the 22s next spring when the track opens.
This forum is great.


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I"ll shoot for the ITV22 as well.

 

Guys, I am really worried about the overall length of the Denzo compared to stock. Will the coil pack even make contact with the Denzo tip? Has anyone checked this?

 

I've been running 22's in my car since Monday. No problems.

 

I didn't want to comment as of yet as the plugs have only been in a few days. Car runs cooler and no power loss that I can tell. On Sundays I fill my car for the weekly commute to work. Usually by Friday I have to get gas. I still have a 1/4 tank. I don't want to speculate but I have not changed my route or the way I drive.

 

And this result is with the 22's?

 

...edit, just read that you do on the last page, sorry

 

Hey guys so ive been following this topic and I just want to know if I should get the itv22's or ngk equivalent?

 

22's are a safe bet. I will be testing the 24's in jan.

 

I don't see Edgeautosport has them for the ST yet. Should I order the ones from their Mazdaspeed selection? I guess they are the same?

 

part number is all you are concerned with.

 

Running itv22 with my gtx2867

 

Somethimg worth testing would be to have KR on stock plugs, then installing these itv22's. Then monitor ign cor over the 4 cyl. Thats the type of test I would do. I know the itv22 plugs worked well on the MS platform so im not doubting them.

 

Placed my order for ITV22's. Can't wait to add some more timing and lean out the afr some more. powaaaaaaa

 

What made you change your mind to go with NGK's if I may ask?

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Denso's are nearly always out of stock when I was ready to buy. I had Denso itv20/22/24 and NGK ltr7ix-11 on my MPS and the NGK's were better imo. I saw less kr on the ngk's. And I have the logs to prove it. Hopefully this holds true on the ST platform too.

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Denso's are nearly always out of stock when I was ready to buy. I had Denso itv20/22/24 and NGK ltr7ix-11 on my MPS and the NGK's were better imo. I saw less kr on the ngk's. And I have the logs to prove it. Hopefully this holds true on the ST platform too.

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I will probably go with the NGK's. I've always had good results on my SI

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So you guys are going one step colder without BTs? What gains does this stand to produce? What kind of wear are you seeing on the stock plugs at replacement mileage?

 

Ford Racing is going 1 step colder supposedly and I'm running ~24 lbs boost which is probably higher than Ford will run. I'm hoping Torrie can add some timing.

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Not just for bt. Agressive afr and timing adds heat beyond what the stock plug can handle.

Prevention is better than cure.

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I hear that! That's really what I am after...

Ford Racing is going 1 step colder supposedly and I'm running ~24 lbs boost which is probably higher than Ford will run. I'm hoping Torrie can add some timing.

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Gotcha. So even without a tune tweak this would simply allow the car to run cooler?

 

Cylinder temps cooler. Decreased risk of detonation though I have no detonation in my logs some timing is being pulled under certain conditions though Torrie says my logs look good.

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A quick note here. A spark plug that is too hot causes pre-ignition and not detonation.

Detonation is when combustion occurs away from the main flame front such as in hot spots in the combustion chamber. It causes standing pressure waves that cause a pinging noise, can be damaging depending on severity, and are picked up with the knock sensor.

Pre-ignition is far more dangerous. This is when the spark plug is not able to pull enough heat out and the tip becomes very hot. The ignition can start well before the spark fires (hence the pre). This is silent and is not picked up by knock sensors. If the flame front starts as the piston is still moving up, tremendous heat is build up and generally the piston melts.

An engine can last a good amount of time knocking but it will only take a few seconds of pre-ignition to destroy it. Thankfully this is rather extreme and requires very lean conditions, very hot plugs, and the motor being driven at WOT for an extended period of time such as a quarter mile run.

A step colder spark plug is a good idea once you're making 60-80hp more than stock especially if your plugs are due for a replacement.

Heat Range Explanation - Technical Information - NGK Spark Plugs Australia

 

I am getting close to the mileage needed to pull my plugs and make my second video. at the same time I will be putting in the 2 step colder plug for the next 13,500 miles. stay tuned to my youtube feed.

 

Based upon comments and skizzos first vid (great vid thx for testing btw) for a stage 3+ or BT I'm thinking 1 step colder is the way to go. Also from what I read ya don't want to get to cold of a plug because it won't burn off some residue or something like that (correct me if I'm wrong or include more specifics).