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Spark Plug Options

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324K views 620 replies 128 participants last post by  FWD_Fracas  
#1 · (Edited)
So, with the big turbos coming out, spark plug upgrades will be following very closely. When increasing the power by that much it is important to move to a slightly colder plug in order to keep cylinder temps down and reduce chances for pre-ignition/detonation.

The factory spark plug for the focus ST is an NGK plug PN: LTR6DI-8. If you break down the part number this is what you get.

LT (Long thread reach plug Tapered seat type 25mm) R (Resistor) 6 (heat range) D (Metal Shell Plating Spec Change) I (Laser Iridium) - 8 (0.8mm or .032")

The heat range for NGK plugs goes from 2 to 11 with 2 being the hottest and 11 being the coldest. This means that there are a couple options to go with for a colder spark plug.

The first is the NGK LTR7IX-11. This plug comes with a gap of 1.1mm or .044" and will require you to regap them to a range of .030" - .032". The IX at the end of the part number stands for High Performance Iridium.

The second option is the Denso ITV22.

I stands for iridium, and the letter T is the Thread Diameter x Hex size (14x16.0). The letter V represents the thread reach of 25mm with tapered seat. The heat range is designated by the number 22. This is equivalent to the NGK 7 and therefore one step colder than stock. The number 20 corresponds to the stock heat range or NGK 6.

We are going to be running the NGK LTR7IX-11's in our car with the GTX2867. We are not sure what gap we are going to run yet but will be experimenting with that a bit to see what works best.
 
#470 ·
The set of ITV24's I got 4 days ago came all at 0.032, I closed them out a little to 0.029 before I installed them. I'm running them because that's what Ford advertises to run with the FRPP Calibration The stock plugs I took out with only 6000 miles, were gapped at 0.035
 
#472 ·
So I pulled a plug and it said CYFS12PC, which was replaced by CYFS12Y2 so I assume they are the same heat range. I called my local dealer and they said for the Focus ST, the plug that was recommended was the Y2 plug. But I looked at the NGK designation on my PC plug and it was ILTR6G8G so which plug do I get to go 1 step colder than what I have?
 
#479 ·
My 24s all had a very tight .032 gap. I don't understand why some of you are closing that gap. A smaller gap resists blowout but I'm yet to see blowout problems. If anything a wider gap would be favorable for performance but I trend to stick close to factory as it's usually optimal.

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#493 ·
I've had blowout problems. Was the first one I think. Ran the NGK's at stock gap around .040-42. Running . 028 for 10k miles, no problems.

siht daer nac uoy fi revo em lloR
 
#481 ·
probably your imagination.
when your car runs smoother it will feel less jerky. if your car was pulling timing before you would have a small dip in your dyno sheet. this would result in a strong feeling of torque right after the dip. the butt dyno is and always be junk. plenty of people add parts to their car and think it is faster, when in real life it is actually slower.
 
#487 ·
COBB's OTS tunes were developed on the factory plugs, so colder plugs aren't required, yet won't hurt anything if you do switch. I'm going to be full COBB Stage 3 with their OTS tune and bought the Denso ITV22 plugs to install, which are one step colder than stock.
 
#485 ·
You will lose some power with a colder plug.
 
#583 ·
Used. Your video today. Thanks again for the help
 
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#508 ·
Awesome, thanks again for the time you've put into this dude, highly appreciated, more than glad I went this spark plugs.
 
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#512 ·
I'm starting to feel like a caveman renewing my interest on working on cars. The spark plugs hide under these rectangles ? Do you need to remove the air intake to get to the last one?
Image



If I'm tappin I'm probably lifting.
 
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#516 ·
I saw you removed them. Interesting as that's what I'm putting in. I'll keep the stockers incase this doesn't go well.


If I'm tappin I'm probably lifting.
 
#522 ·
Tried to sort through all this, but the information is a bit scattered. I'm going to be running Stage 3 in relatively near future, but for now I'm about to order the Cobb intake, RMM, and AccessPort along with a cp-e FMIC and Turbosmart dual port BOV. From what I've read here, I should run two steps colder when I add the turboback exhaust and change to stage 3 tune, but for now (probably a month or two) I'll be running the Stage 2 tune. Should I go ahead and get the two stage colder plugs now, or get stage 1 until I upgrade to stage 3?
 
#523 ·
I don't believe I've seen anyone other than Fjord recommend two steps colder. FWIW, Cobb makes no claims(as far as I know) as to needing a colder spark plug for their tunes. I put ITV22's in my car and noticed absolutely zero difference in performance or reduction in knock. Theoretically they will do what they are supposed to though.