Traction control on or off?

 

It's on. Car still feels slower than before. When it was stock it was quick.

 

Stop using TC. Sport mode it daily. That alone gives a better driving experience. I guarantee if you go In sport and dump it at 3k rpms you'll spin

 

yes lol

 

it felt slower? so the cat back made your car slower because it is more free flowing and less weight? ok.

Most people make false claims that their car is faster which is also not true.

Your car is slow and your car was slow and until you tune your car will stay slow. changing the exhaust didn't do anything but make the car more noisy, /thread

 

Possibly you're Learned Octane is not at -1 and pulling timing? Also when you reset the ecu you need to hammer the car so it re-learns how to behave properly!

 

Thanks everyone. I'll try sport mode. What's the difference between that and fully off?

Edit: I really need a nap. Just googled it. My concern is that even a 3rd gear pull feels slower. Maybe I'm just used to the power now.

I'll run this 91 ethanol free dry and go back to Sunoco/Mobil 93(e10)

 

Thanks everyone. I'll try sport mode. What's the difference between that and fully off?

 

It is slow, until you tune it. Then let the mods begin. Lol

 

Just add a few stickers....

 

When I got my car it was basically stock aside for the MBRP cat back.

With the OEM tune, traction control on, in 1st gear it would spin on command. Taking off like normal and then just giving it gas once the clutch was engaged, flashing traction light and spin, higher up in RPM and mash the gas, same thing. In second gear, no matter speed if you gave it WOT, once it got above 4k RPMs it would also start to flash the light and spin.

If you turned traction control off, at any point in 1st if you mash the gas, instant smoke show. In second, if you mash the gas it would break loose and start a smoke show anytime after 4k-4.5k RPM.


Now that it is Strait tuned on E30. with "reduced power in 2nd gear" option. With the TC on the light will still flash a tiny bit in 2nd but it won't spin the brand new summer tires. With the TC off the tires will hum a little and sound like they are just about to lose traction but never really spin.

With 1st gear, it's just a spin factory no matter what. Turning TC off adds a smoke show to the spin factory.


If giving it the beans in 1st doesn't start spinning, even on the OEM tune, with or with out TC it sounds like you have a problem with the car... You didn't happen to leave a rag stuffed inside the muffler did you?

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I only found out about so-called "Sport Mode" the other day from a facelift owner. Where are the controls for the pre-facelift? Wouldn't mind having a go at experimenting with this function myself!

 

It tells you all about it in the ST supplement guide, page 11-12.


you should have an AdvanceTrac button on the center console (it may just say "ESC OFF")

every time you start the car it is reset to the full on position.

pressing the button once will put it in to "Sport Mode" and it will adjust the threshold of the Traction Control to allow more wheel spin while leaving the Electronic Stability Control still engaged

pressing and holding the button for 5 seconds will shut off the Traction Control AND the Electronic Stability Control.


regardless of modes, Torque Vectoring will always remain engaged.

 

Mine doesn't spin until 4k in first. And only slightly. Maybe it's because the roads here are not smooth textured. They're a rough gravel texture.
I'll have the dealer look everything over at my first oil change. I'll just say it feels not as peppy so I wonder if there's boost leak? :Innocent face:

 

To have a boost leak, you would have had to remove some of the boost piping on top of the exhaust

If you didnt mess with any of that then it would be pretty unlikely, I mean something could have come loose at the same time but that's a heck of a coincidence.

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Also I would think a rough road would have less traction that a nice new smooth road that would have more area in contract with the tire.

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Wow, thanks for the online handbook. Much more helpful than the one I got with the car!

 

It handles much better in track mode (full off), too—the reduction in understeer and response to trail braking and left-foot braking is like night and day. My SE Focus only allowed TC off. I bought the ST largely because it had a track mode and the extra power was just a bonus. The stability system on the SE would fight me in the snow, though I could tell that the chassis wanted to cooperate. Granted, the ST has a more performance suspension, but its much better, more predictable behavior with stability off confirmed it for me.

 

It's getting warmer now. Are you sure it's not just the temperature going up? That combined with heat soak from the stock intercooler makes a difference.

2nd guess is fuel like others said. Go with top tier fuel brands if you can.

https://www.toptiergas.com/licensedbrands/

76 (USA)
Aloha (USA)
Amoco (USA, Canada)
ARCO (USA, Canada, Mexico)
Beacon (USA, Canada)
BP (USA, Canada)
Break Time (USA)
Cenex (USA)
Chevron (USA, Canada, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Panama)
CITGO (USA, Canada)
Conoco (USA)
Co-op (Canada)
Co-op Diesel (Canada - select locations only)
Costco Wholesale (USA, Canada, Mexico)
Costco Wholesale - Diesel (USA, Canada - select locations only)
CountryMark (USA)
CountryMark PLUS (USA)
Diamond Shamrock (USA, Canada)
Energy (Mexico)
Esso (Canada)
Express Mart (USA - Wisconsin)
Exxon (USA)
Fast Fuel (USA)
Fast Stop - Diesel (USA - select locations only)
Fast Stop Express - Diesel (USA - select locations only)
G500 (Mexico)
Hele (USA)
HFN - Hawaii Fueling Network (USA)
Holiday (USA, Canada)
Irving Oil (USA, Canada)
Kirkland Signature Gasoline (USA, Canada, Mexico)
Kirkland Signature - Diesel (USA, Canada - select locations only)
Kwik Star (USA, Canada)
Kwik Trip (USA, Canada)
Kwik Trip Express (USA, Canada)
Mahalo (USA)
Marathon (USA)
Metro Petro (USA)
MFA (USA)
Mobil (USA, Canada)
OAAI (USA)
Ohana Fuels (USA)
Petro-Canada (Canada)
Phillips 66 (USA)
PUMA (El Salvador, Guatemala, Panama, Puerto Rico)
QT (USA)
QuikTrip (USA)
Ranger (USA, Canada)
Ranger Mustang (USA, Canada)
Ranger Stallion (USA, Canada)
Ranger Thoroughbred (USA, Canada)
Reeder's (USA)
Shamrock (USA, Canada)
Shell (USA, Canada, Puerto Rico)
Sinclair (USA, Canada)
Sunoco (USA, Canada)
SuperAmerica (USA, Canada)
SuperFuels (USA, Canada)
Tempo (Canada)
Texaco (USA, Canada, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Panama)
Tri-Par Qwik Stop (USA)
Valero (USA, Canada)
Win Win (USA)

 

At 860 miles your car isn't even broken in and I wouldn't worry about how much it will or won't spin in 1st gear at this point. Give it a few 1000 miles to break in.

I really think you're overanalyzing. The ST isn't a "fast" car and ability to spin the tires will vary car to car depending on the surface, tire type, temperature, etc. Also you could be expecting it to roll smoke off the tires but in reality the car will more frequently break traction drama free without a smoke show to go with it under hard acceleration.

That being said when my car was 100% stock it would chirp a hard shift into 3rd gear. This also depends on the road surface.

 

Less than 500 miles, it ran 13.97 and 13.99 on slicks, E30 tune all else stock not understanding the traction control button, I left it on. It would shut down wheel spin that I needed in the burnout box...

Few months later no changes = 13.4@100 in 90 degree heat

 

I think the not smoking tires thing is more about your clutch action than anything. OP is either trolling or new to driving manual transmission.

On an interesting note. I recently went back to OEM tune & 87 Octane because I was going on a long trip and wanted to save some fuel $s. Surprisingly I have actually kept driving it this way several weeks now. I am really impressed with the OEM tune now, it is very fast. Driving tuned & doing datalogs gave me confidence in when and where to floor the pedal. Now going back I have found driving OEM tune with same strategies still results in a pretty speedy car. Even with 87 Octane! I am actually struggling to believe it.

 

Not trolling here. And this is my 6th manual transmission car. Granted, it is my first FWD car. It has been picking up a bit, but I'll wait for after the oil change. When it was bone stock, it definitely had a lot more get-up-n-go on the highway compared to now.

 

Wow. Chirping 3rd stock. I did this once when I first tried to pass someone on the highway in the rain.

3rd or 4th wot pulls don't feel as strong. Guess I'll listen to you all and use 93, wait for more break in, etc

860 miles and will change the oil when I get back from an almost 1k mile trip to Vermont. Or should I change it before?

 

It was a very hard shift.. don't base it off that. I personally feel my car is slower than other ST's but also feel I'm probably just used to it.

Definitely make the switch to 93. The computer pulls timing to adjust for 87 so you are leaving power on the table by not running 93. I think the first oil change is recommended to follow the 5,000mi schedule. I would stick with whatever is recommended by Ford as the initial oil typically has different additives for a new engine.

 

I have a question about the stage 2 Cobb ots. I have a 2013 ST2 with 125,000 miles. It runs and drives like champ, but seems a little slow.

The Cobb hp and torque gauges seem like the numbers are way off. The most I’ve seen on hp is 200s torque is 220s these almost seem like stock readings.

So to my question: does the mileage make that much of a difference? I understand that it may loose some performance due high mileage.

Oh and mods are muffler/resonator delete, high flow filter, and a much bigger that stock mishimoto intercooler.

Any info or advice is much appreciated.

 

You will find mixed opinions on the COBB OTS tunes. It depends on how the power is rated. Is it giving you an estimated wheel HP/TQ or flywheel? I wouldn't put much into what it says. It won't measure as accurately as a dyno.

If your engine has been well maintained and doesn't have any issues the power loss with high mileage isn't substantial.

 

I Have no idea what the power is rated at, does anyone on here know if Cobb hp/trq gauges rate at flywheel or the ground?


Either way it isn’t even close to what factory specs are and yes I’ve read on here the gauges are inaccurate. I was just curious.

 

What tires are you running? That is probably the biggest factor in 'chirping' the tires. I have traction issues in 1st and 2nd gear in my ST, but I am running the crappy stock all-season tires. If you are running the factory sports tires, you probably won't have much for traction issues.

Also, at the end of the day, the ST is not a fast car. It is 250hp stock. It is really for canyon carving not drag racing.

 

I am running the stock all seasons as well. Can't even break loose in second at all, even in sport mode. I don't get it

Guess I'll just be patient. My old stage 2 wrx had more traction issues so maybe I'm just used to that?

 

No, it not a fast car by any means. but unlike most cars, it is a torque monster. Very few cars make as much TQ as the ST does just off idle(even V8 muscle cars) along with skinny tires. Add to that it comes without a LSD and it and you have the recipe for a tire frier.



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My 17 has the stock all seasons....I use 93(PURE)....if I drop the clutch at anything above 3000 RPMs the people in the lane next to me **** their pants.

 

the stock tune is designed to have E10... it is not even recommended to run E0. I have been told but no dyno has proven it but E0 is slower once the computer has learned it.

So in short, running E10 is faster and going to make more power because of the way the factory tune handles it.

I have asked before and will again, someone do a side by side comparison? E0 vs E10. Need a dyno of course to do the testing correctly and need plenty of time for the car to learn each fuel types.

Either way I am sure the power difference is going to be SO SO very small that your not really going to know a difference on the street.

The fact that you are noticing a few HP difference up or down is crazy, it is likely just in your head.

 

I've never heard that before.....what is your source? ....that E0 is not recommended? I never said I noticed a power difference....I just said my stock 17 with the OEM all seasons & 93 PURE...will spin the tires if I drop the clutch above 3000 RPMs.