I should add I've been normally peaking at 250 HP & 285 TQ, with the occasional 265 HP & 325 TQ

 

I have no experience with tuning and next to none deciphering of this type of data, but as you mentioned- I've also read that Torque Pro does not provide a thorough data set on parameters, and that hardware designed to display and record this type of information is required to really see what is happening. I have used Torque Pro (a few years ago with an MX Bluetooth dongle that I used to interface with Forscan) and I thought it was really quite inclusive and impressively responsive, but in hindsight nothing like what you see using a Cobb Accessport (I know you cannot use an AP3 with the Ford Performance tune).

Is there a different type of device / software that you can use (one that plugs into the OBD port directly) to take a look at the metrics resulting from the Ford Performance tune?

 

I think another problem is that the car is a turd when going WOT at 1800 RPM in 4th gear like they recommend to start a dyno pull on the road. Too much load, backpressure & heat generation by the time you finally reach 4500 RPM, sure you push the boost up high initially but it feels like it struggles to get going and my charge temps quickly went up by ~ +40 F. This tune is great in 3rd gear from a 3500 RPM roll. Obviously 1st and 2nd are also tire smokers but really non functional on a highwy run.

 

I think another problem is that the car is a turd when going WOT at 1800 RPM in 4th gear like they recommend to start a dyno pull on the road.

Whoever "they" happen to be, you need to stop listening to them. Never WOT below 3,000 rpm in these cars, its amazing you havent scattered this thing!!!

You've been around this place long enough, you've seen LSPi talked about. Please dont ever do that again.

 

How to take and post datalogs on the forum

There aren't too many datalogs posted on the forum and one of the reasons for this is that the forum doesn't have native support for hosting the .csv file type and people are a little reluctant to log. Here's a quick crash course on how to log and how to share/post these to generate discussion...

www.focusst.org

Our sticky from 2014 states 2500rpm, but the automotive industry didnt quite understand what a bear LSPi was back then. General rule is 3000rpm for safety, not at all in 5th or 6th (unless you're doing triple digits)

 

Here is one

How to dyno your Focus ST correctly

 

Here is one

How to dyno your Focus ST correctly

Well thats complete ****ing trash. Its for dynos, not logs.

 

I deleted that 7 year old BS, before some other clown pops a motor doing 1800 rpm pulls in 4th.

Literally the worst information for our platform.

Wtf man. Who would listen to that?

LOW SPEED PRE IGNITION!!!!!

It's not a ****ing joke.

 

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www.focusst.org

 

They both say on the road in addition to dyno heck the one says to shift from 2nd to 4th and youll be at 1800 rpm and go wot

 

Go do that. A bunch. Go for it.

I deleted that 8 year old trash too.

Keep digging for this hot garbage, we are cleaning up the forums.

 

I was conerned about lspi too but after resding several of them i figured 4th was not an issue hell even frpp posts their graph of max tq at ~ 2800... where the hell are u gonna use that?

 

2-3-4th gears that are the best usable ones. Don’t being doing this in 5th and God forbid 6th haha. Just downshift a gear or 2, especially on the highway on the highway to be safe 😉

 

They came up in a search for ign corr pids lol

 

Honestly though, lmk if you find more of this stuff though, it needs to be deleted.

 

Well thankfully i didnt have any bad knock from the sensors and i run top tier 93 so i wont be doing that again

 

Lspi is oil flash from the cylinder walls, it has little to nothing to do with fuel.

This is all bad. Bad bad bad. Im so glad your engine didn't let loose, man.

 

So, while I havent had any symptoms since the 1800 RPM lugging, is there anything I need to check for possible damage (low compression, plugs. etc) or look for going forward or am I in the clear at this point??

 

Well, a few people in the engine failure resource thread say they were just driving along when their engine lost a cylinder, which indicates to me that they had probably cracked a piston previously, but not all the way through, so it held compression for a certain period of time before totally failing.

No external test will tell you this, though. I'd imagine if no symptoms appear after a tank or two of fuel, you're probably in the clear.