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Focus ST - Titanium Seat Swap (Front seats)

97K views 93 replies 44 participants last post by  oxst-17  
#1 ·
This guide is for swapping a Ford Focus ST 2's partial leather trimmed Recaro seats with the seats from a Titanium Focus. Only the driver seat can be swapped directly. The passenger seat electronics from the Titanium do not work in the ST. The easiest way to deal with this issue is to swap the upholstery between the ST and Titanium passenger seats. The steps for an ST 1 and ST 3 should be very similar. I would imagine the process would also be similar for a Fiesta ST as well. Over all the process is straight froward. Remove the bottom cushion, the seat back cover, and the foam. The frame and electronics are identical: size, shape, placement.

Tools


  • Ratcheting wrench
  • T50 torx
  • T30 torx
  • Flat head screw driver
  • Phillips head screw driver
  • 7mm socket
  • Bolt cutters
  • Knife, box cutter or similar
  • ***** or pliers (optional)


Driver Seat

The drivers side is compatible with the car and can be swapped directly. The Titanium drivers seat is electric (not heated) and the electric adjustments work.

There are four bolts that hold the seat to the car. Take those out with the T50 torx. There is also a plug box under the seat that needs to be disconnected. Use the 7mm socket. The bolt is part of the top of the plug and won't itself come off. Disconnect the plug box and pull out the seat. Put the Titanium seat in, bolt it to the car and connect the plug box.


Passenger Seat

The passenger seat, unfortunately, cannot be dropped into the car directly like the driver seat can. The car will see the seat and all of its components but refuse to work with it. The SRS system will say something like unsupported part (I can't remember the error exactly) and disable itself. Meaning if you just swap the passenger seat you won't have air bags (any air bags not only the one in the seat). The air bag light will always be on letting you know the air bags will not deploy in a crash.

I was not able to determine which part within the seat the car doesn't like. My guess is it's the air bag module. The passenger seat I got was from a wreck so when I had the dealership pull the SRS faults it was showing a lot of them. Due to the unsupported part they couldn't clear any of the codes. I wasn't going to try swapping individual pieces and taking the car to the dealership to see if I found the right one. Instead I decided to swap the upholstery.

The good news is the upholstery can be swapped without much modification to the seats themselves. The frame itself is the same for both models. Also, the air bag module is the same size, shape and in the same location. The only modification you need to do is to remove a plastic shaping piece for the bottom cushion's bolsters in the ST seat.



For anyone who wants to try only swapping the air bag here is what the Titanium seat looks like with the upholstery removed. The air bag is the box on the left. Here is another shot of how the air bag connects to the frame. There are two tabs and two screws that hold it on. There is a connector at the bottom of the module that unplugs and leads to the plug box under the seat. Again, this info is for anyone who wants to try swapping the air bag only (I don't know if that will work or not). If you are going to do an upholstery swap you won't need to worry about or mess with the air bag at all.



Of course you need to take the seat out of the car. See the driver side section on how to get the seat out.

A word of warning. Take your time and don't force anything. Most of the attachments are to the foam cushion and if you force anything you'll end up ripping the foam. Or worse you'll rip attachment point out of the foam. Again, take your time.

Remove the lever for leaning the seat back. Pop out the circular cover in the picture using a flat head screw driver. Under the cover is a bolt. Remove it using the T30 torx. The lever will slide off. Remove the screw on the back of the plastic side piece with a philips screw driver. With the lever and screw removed slide the plastic piece that goes across the side of the seat forward and pull it off. There are two tabs (middle and front) that hold it to the seat. Remember this for when you put the seat back together.








On the side with the seat belt plug there is also a plastic piece that needs to be removed. As with the other side remove the screw on the back. Slide the piece forward and pull on it to get it off.



With the plastic side pieces off you can access all of the tabs to remove the bottom cushion. There are two tabs on each side, and one across the front. The tabs are probably the hardest part of this entire process. They hook around and hold on to the metal tab at the top. Titanium cushion doesn't have much give which makes getting tabs off difficult. I had a much easier time unhooking them on the ST seat. I sat on the edge of the side of the seat I was working on then inserted a flat head screw driver between the tab and the metal frame. Twist out to get the hook off then push down to pull it off the metal frame. Go around the seat and unhook all of these tabs.



At this point the ST seat has an extra step. There is a plastic insert that shapes the bottom cushion's side bolsters that isn't in the Titanium seat. The plastic piece has a hook on each side that also holds the cushion in place. Don't just pull on the cushion because you will rip the cross member that the hooks hold. I pulled the cushion up as far as I could and used a flat head screw driver to pop the cushion off the hook. This is probably the second hardest part of the process.






Now we're back to ST and Titanium steps being the same. With the tabs unhooked flip the seat over so we can unhook the back. There are three tabs that are on elastic bands that are attached to the seat back. Pull those off and flip the flap of material out of the way. You'll see two tabs that are part of the bottom cushion; unhook them.



The two tabs, leather, and foam of the bottom cushion wrap around a bar that goes across the back of the seat. It's a bit tight but push it off so you can get the cushion free. Don't pull from the front of the cushion, push from the back. If you pull the tabs might hook onto something. Also, you might want to slide the reclining lever back on and play with the position of the back of the seat to make it easier to get it out.



The ST seat has another step that doesn't apply to the Titanium seat. That plastic piece for the bottom cushion's side bolsters, which has to be removed. Sadly, the piece is held on with three rivets. Two in the front and one in the back. The rivets are not heat rivets like you'd see on a 1920's sky scraper. The rivet is a hollow tube that has a pin inserted at one end which compresses and expands the sides. You can pull the pin out using a set of ***** or pliers which would make the next step easier but it's not required. Cut the rivets off with the bolt cutters. I couldn't get my bolt cutters in flat to cut it off easily. I positioned the cutters perpendicular to the rivet and cut a few times to get it apart. I also had to use the flat head screw driver to bend and reposition the rivet (it will spin) a few times.







You'll need to detach (then reattach) the weight sensor mat to get the plastic bolsters off. Look at the first picture of the seat without the upholstery (or at your seat at this point). You'll see a plastic mat that was under the bottom cushion. This it the weight sensor. It's held on by two plastic push pin. Gently pull the pin out (you can leave them through the mat) of the frame. The plastic bolster shaping piece should now be free. Reattach the weight sensor mat.

With the bottom cushion off you can move on to the removing the leather cover. Slowly peal the cover upward. Think of it like an upside down banana but you won't be splitting it. For pulling the cover up you'll need to work both the back and front alternating between the two. Do a little of one then switch to the other. Both the front and back have various attachments that hold the cover in place that will need to be dealt with.

The ST seat has a foam insert that goes across the bottom of the back that is not present in the Titanium seat. It is glued in place. Pull it out gently so it doesn't rip.



Both the ST and Titanium seats have clips along the inside the cover on the sides. The clips hold the cover to the frame. The Titanium seat has two clips (one on either side) and the ST has four. The Titanium has an additional clip that the ST doesn't have that goes from the front of the cover, through the foam and attaches to the back of the seat. It is near the air bag. Disconnect this clip and push it though the hole in the foam. Both seats have a clip that holds the pocket in place that will need to be pulled off.






The front is a bit trickier than the back. The Titanium seat is mostly velcro but there isn't much of it. The ST seat has clips along the side that are attached to the foam. Gently unclip the cover from the foam (it's easy to tear the clips out of the foam). Also, be very gentle with the velcro. Again you can pull the velcro attachment off the foam. I took the flat head screw driver and inserted it between the two parts of the velcro to separate it then used the screw driver to hold the foam side in place and pulled the other side off. Sometimes it didn't want to come apart so I had to push the screw driver across to get it apart.



The ST logo on the front of the seat (shoulder area) is held in place with a lot of velcro. There are multiple lines of velcro that hold it in place. The Titanium seat unfortunately doesn't use velcro in that area. Instead there is a plastic bar on a flap that is held to the foam by a set of metal rings that goes through another plastic bar embedded in the foam. Cut these rings with bolt cutters. When reassembling the seat I used a set of zip ties as a substitute for the rings.



At this point the cover should be almost off and only held on by the head rest posts. There are two options for for getting the cover off the rest of the way. You can carefully pull the cover over the top of the post. Be careful you don't rip the cover if you do this but the hole is big enough to do this. Otherwise you can push the cover out of the way and wait until later when the posts are removed in order to get the foam off without tearing it.

The top of the foam on the back has slits. The ST seat had the slits taped over but the Titanium seat didn't. Cut the tape along the slit (you can tape it back later if you want). Pull the foam flap on the back up so you can get to the head rest posts in the seat. On the top right (when facing the back of the seat) of the post is a plastic piece that don't allow the post to be removed. This piece can be pressed in (it's on a spring) so you can pull the post out.








With the posts removed the foam can be slid off the frame. The foam does go around all sides of the air bag box and can get caught when removed. Gently pull it off the air bag box and you'll be able to slide the rest of the foam off the frame.






Reassembly is the disassembly process in reverse. Swap the foam pieces. Then put the leather cover (it should be inside out) on the top of the foam and put the head rest posts back in to hold it all together. Start pushing the cover down and press the velcro in place. Put the clips back making sure to get the one that goes through the foam front front to back. Put the bottom cushion in place, and be sure to wrap it around the bar on the back of the seat and clip it in place. With the bottom cushion in place finish by attaching the back across the bottom of the seat.

Put the seat in the car (remember to reconnect the plug box under the seat) and turn it on to verify the air bag light doesn't come on.




 
#4 ·
Where did you buy the seats. Can you provide a link to the site?

Sent from my Galaxy Note 2
 
#7 ·
I don't mind the back of the ST3 seats, do you think it would be possible to change out the whole bottom of a titanium seat at the recline pivot? Also what are your thoughts on just taking out the added plastic piece on the ST3 bottoms? Would the foam and leather be enough to support its self, I can literally feel the plastic wing things digging into my thighs.
 
#10 ·
What is your goal? It sounds like it's just the bolsters on the bottom cushion that you don't like.

It would be easier to take off the bottom cushion, and remove the plastic shaping piece. The cushion (foam and leather are all one piece for the bottom cushion) is held on with clips along the sides and it wraps around the bottom from the back with clips. The plastic shaping piece is held on with three rivets. You'd only need to cut the rivets to remove it. If you're worried about putting the plastic shaping piece back on you could replace the rivets with 3 short bolts.

Once you get the cushion and plastic shaping piece off you could either put the Titanium cushion on or you could put the ST3 cushion back on. The foam and leather should be enough to support itself. It might be a bit floppy. You may not care though. That said, you could stuff the cavity the shaping piece fills in the foam with additional foam. That way it would be a bit sturdier and able to retain it's shape better but not be ridged and fixed in place.
 
#8 · (Edited)
You'd have to change the foam and the leather, and I think that would look odd with the ST3 back paired with a Titanium bottom. I believe the ST3 seats are made from better leather, and it may even be a different shade of charcoal.

I haven't dissected an ST3 seat, but I'm not sure there's any plastic involved. When I skinned my Titanium seat, there was just very firm foam making up the shape of the bottom cushion. If there is plastic underneath, I would think it would be on the outboard side of the wings to give them support.

Keep in mind that anything you change underneath has to be changed on the leather as well, or the leather will no longer fit the foam. I'm sure you can have your ST3 seats altered at an upholstery place. I wouldn't try to do the foam & leather alterations myself, but I have no talent for things like that. It would cost a pretty penny to replace the foam or the leather if either got screwed up. I just priced a bottom cushion & bottom fabric for my 2005 Sport Trac. > $700
 
#11 ·
Thanks user. That's exactly what I was thinking. I don't want to buy a whole other seat set and I like the back of the Recaros it's just the bolsters on the legs that kills them. Once it gets warmer I am going to tear into the passenger seat first and see how it feels. Your right I don't care if it's a bit more floppy.

I'll post what I find.


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#12 ·
So I tore into the seats last night and took out that plastic thingy. It is night and day better for me. No longer strange pressure points on my thighs. Super easy, took about an hour. I might need to put a spacer under the seat foam, the cover is a bit looser then before.


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#13 ·
What EXACTLY did you do? The seats pressure points you've described are my problems as well. The back bolsters are fine for me.

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#19 ·
The wings are pretty thick on the plastic piece. They definitely aren't something you can bend, they could be cut off I suppose but it might difficult due to the shape/contour of the wings. Below are a few more pictures of the plastic piece attempting to show the thickness of the wings as well as the gap (void) in the bottom cushion that accommodates the wings. I would think it would be wise to fill the gaps with foam or some other kind of filler if the wings were not present. I opted to go with a Titanium Seat swap and thus haven't personally tried the removing the wings/plastic piece approach.
 

Attachments

#20 ·
Thanks for the pictures... Informative....

However, I'd still like to see what the seats look like after this piece of plastic is removed (or the wings cut off). I'm also curious if it's really the wings that are root of the hard/rigid pressure points that I'm feeling in the lower hip/upper thigh region. If those pressure points had some give (they don't) to them, then I don't think there would be a problem. The bolstering itself (provided it had some give) would be ok.
 
#21 ·
1800 miles on the car and "I can't takes it no more".... Daily driving to work is part of the FST's duties. A trip to work is anywhere between 45 minutes to an hour. After that long in the seat I'm in pain and can still feel it hours later.

Got an appointment with a pro auto upholstery shop. Going to have them modify the seat bases and save my a$$. Shop gave me an estimate of $480 to modify both the driver and passenger seat bases. If they come out good, it will be worth every penny.
 
#22 ·
What modifications will the shop be making to your seat, removing the hard plastic bolster piece? I can reasonably assure you that piece is what is causing you the pain you're feeling. The side bolsters on the bottom seat cushion are flexible and have no real rigidity absent the plastic piece. The actual frames of our seats are the same whether it's an ST1, ST2, ST3, or Titanium seat. The difference lies with foam/bolsters and in the case of the ST2 and ST3 seats that hard plastic piece.

Another poster mentioned earlier that if the shop does remove the plastic piece, they will need to put some kind of spacer (foam, rubber) on the seat frame base to accommodate for the depth of the plastic piece missing or otherwise your seat may squeak when you get into and out of it.

If you like the overall design of your seats, removing the plastic piece is probably a good move for you. You'll be amazed how much the side bolsters can flex to accommodate you without that piece of plastic present in the seat.

I'd make sure you get the plastic pieces back from the shop in case you want to put them back in the car in the future when/if you go to sell it.

Keep us posted on how things turn out for you.
 
#25 ·
I can get a picture of the seats with out the plastic do hicky if you want. They look identical as before, when you sit in them the bolster is a bit more floppy and I am sure over time will look like every other highly bolstered seat but I don't care. I have not gotten around to messing with the plastic thing yet with various iterations of trimming the wings, it snowed yet again here in Chicago. I plan to work my way towards removing them all together a week at a time to see if I can retain a portion of the support while killing the pressure point.

I guarantee you that just shaving the foam is not going to work and not worth the $450. I was originally just going to change out the seat bottom to the Titanium seat bottom cushion which would run you in about that same $300 range.
 
#32 ·
I live my ST but I think im starting to get nerve damage from the bolster on outermost driverseat. I have a little light numbness directly on my thigh and it starts right at the pressure point on the seat. The seats are perhaps the single worst part on this car and weirdly enough the hardest thing to mod. It was as Ford is was counting the seats to last forever and who would ever wsnts to swap them out for something different.

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#34 ·
I have had a local upholstery shop work on my ST3 seats several times.

Trip 1. Shave some foam to widen the seat a bit.
Result: Not much difference

Trip 2. Cut about 1.5" off the plastic bolsters at the back of the seat and add foam to provide support.
Result: helped a bit to reduce the pressure on my hips, but after 30-45 minutes I would still be hurting a bit.

Trip 3: Removed plastic bolsters all together and replaced void with foam.
Result: much better, but still need to go back to move foam around for comfort. I still feel like I am sitting on a pair of spikes under my thighs.

Bottom line - for big guys (I am 6' 6" and 275) the ST3 seats suck. I went on vacation with the family this week and after 4 days my hips were just starting to feel better. I feel like I am 80 with constant hip pain from the seats in this car. I though it would break-in and get better, but it has not after 5000 miles.
 
#35 · (Edited)
How tight the st2 seats are has bothered me for a while. I'm 6'1" and 175 lbs, the seats are great for short trips but on longer ones, I could feel the pressure point in my thigh from those plastic wings. Plus, I prefer to be able to move around a little, adjust my man parts and whatnot...

So, today I decided to tear into them and cut the wings off. I followed the guide in this thread which is very good and started with the passenger seat in case I didn't like how it turned out. I stuffed the cavities with foam, they're still supportive but flex a little. I just finished so I have yet to take a drive in them but, I don't think I'll have that pressure point on my thigh anymore and they'll be more comfortable on longer trips.

Here are a few pictures.

Image

Image

Image


Edit: I've driven about 300 miles in them and they are much better. It wasn't bad before, there were just times I would notice that I was uncomfortable and like I said, would feel a weird pressure point in my thigh. Now when I'm driving, I never think about the seats which is the way it should be.

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#43 ·
Edit: I've driven about 300 miles in them and they are much better. It wasn't bad before, there were just times I would notice that I was uncomfortable and like I said, would feel a weird pressure point in my thigh. Now when I'm driving, I never think about the seats which is the way it should be.
This looks like the best, cheapest solution and I'm thinking of doing it too. What kind of foam is that, and where did you get it?
 
#37 ·
Hi all,

I'm in a similar boat as you all - love the car, hate the Recaro's. I had the same pain in my thighs as well, and finally took the car to an upholstery shop where they cut the bottom bolsters clean off with a saw. $225 for the job if I recall correctly. That has made a tremendous improvement for my legs.

Now that this is taken care of I'm going to try and remove the upper bolsters as well as they cramp my rib cage (I'm 6'3", 225). Hopefully I'm able to do it on my own this time around without getting into too much trouble. The pictures from earlier in the thread have been very useful to let me know what I'm in for. Thanks.
 
#38 ·
JG, When you say "...cut the bolsters clean off...", I'm assuming you mean the plastic wings, as in post #35. Is that right? How does it look? Thanks, JP
 
#39 ·
It looks like the upholstery shop stuffed foam up where the plastic bolsters were. Can you show a pic with it installed and possibly push on it with your hand to show how much flex the cushion now has. Im sure we would all appreciate it.

I've grown to love the back bolsters but the thighs are horrible. After a 3 hour drive I cannot wait to get out of my car.

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#45 ·
Got it done...did about an hour of driving after and I'm happy with the results. The bolsters still grip you, but they don't pinch any more. Very easy mod for a noticeable improvement! The whole thing took maybe an hour or so. I used one of these:
Image

Here's some pics:


Bolster Removal - 2 by adfrost81, on Flickr


Bolster Removal - 3 by adfrost81, on Flickr


Bolster Removal - 4 by adfrost81, on Flickr

My dad got the foam from an upholstery store for $5. We didn't need a whole lot...just enough to fill the slits where the plastic piece was.


Bolster Removal - 5 by adfrost81, on Flickr


Bolster Removal - 6 by adfrost81, on Flickr
 
#46 ·
So all you did was remove the plastic tabs and it made a noticeable improvement? Im very interested in doing it myself.

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#47 ·
That's really all it takes. You can't tell anything was done visually either. It just gives a little more when you sit down instead of digging into your thighs.

Now, if the seat backs are too tight, then you're look at a titanium swap like the OP did. But if it's just the bottom of the seat that's bothering you, this should do the trick. I'm used to the seat back at this point, though it could use some additional lumbar support.