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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I was full soft (street) in front, and went to mid-way, which is 2.5 on Left front and 1.5 on Right front (I only have 3 clicks on right front).
The rear is set in the middle.
I dont have the car until next week to see how the changes went, but I am constantly making changes, and sometimes it helps on certain types of bumps, but roller bumps, and sudden unweighting seem to bring the harshest responses regardless of rebound setting.
MW
 

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I was full soft (street) in front, and went to mid-way, which is 2.5 on Left front and 1.5 on Right front (I only have 3 clicks on right front).
The rear is set in the middle.
I dont have the car until next week to see how the changes went, but I am constantly making changes, and sometimes it helps on certain types of bumps, but roller bumps, and sudden unweighting seem to bring the harshest responses regardless of rebound setting.
MW
You should have 7 positions front and rear.

Sent from another garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Well, maybe I found (we found the issue).
I was lead to believe that there are only 5 positions, 5 clicks. I even have a video that I shared with YCW...
here it is..


I only get 5 clicks on any of the corners, but the driver side is only 3 clicks, with half the rotation of the other corners...
Do you get 6 clicks -for 7 positions, or 7 clicks?
 

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Well, maybe I found (we found the issue).
I was lead to believe that there are only 5 positions, 5 clicks. I even have a video that I shared with YCW...
here it is..


I only get 5 clicks on any of the corners, but the driver side is only 3 clicks, with half the rotation of the other corners...
Do you get 6 clicks -for 7 positions, or 7 clicks?
I think it's 6.because if you start off in position one then you have six more adjustments.

Sent from another garage.
 

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Update:
4 months into the YCWs.
I was just reading over my thread...I noticed that I neglected to mention that I had found the noise in the front end. I mean, I mentioned that I adjusted the sway bar end links...what I did not mention was that shortening them resulted in eliminating the noise. The swaybar was almost sitting on the lower control arm, so when I hit bumps, it would make contact. Easily fixed. What is not finalized, is what is the proper orientation for the swaybar...
I have yet to adjust the rear damper to use to limit the extension of the rear spring. I have been (what feels like) working on my wife's mini cooper S for the last 4 weekends trying to fix an oil leak...now those cars are fun cars, but total POS to work on. I now have to find a front end noise not related to anything that I worked on, that was not there before I worked on the car...yeah.

Anyway, I am trying to contact YCW again to see if I can send in my setup to have looked at. I feel that something is just not right. The car really hates bumps...of all types. Square edged bumps are understandable, but undulations can send my car airborne (at least it feels that way). I am not happy with the setup. It worked well on the track, but I might do 5 track events this year, so I need a streetable setup. I am not one to sell my stuff (for instance, I still have the TB strut tower brace...), so I really hope that YCW will take the suspension and look it over. They should have a shock dyno by now, and can hopefully find something that is amiss.
It feels to me like there is simply next to no compression damping. A 1" square edged bump (think steel plate) feels like a major traumatic event. Undulations in the road that the wheel SHOULD track smoothly over, result in the suspension bottom out VERY harshly. Similar bumps have resulted in my car feeling like it was launched into the air.
I still feel that the damage to the threads in one of the earlier images might be indicative of an issue. I am hoping that it is. That maybe the result is an imbalance in the front end causing my issues.
I now have the Mfactory LSD installed, and on smooth corners at low speed (under acceleration) I can get the intervention of the LSD to cause the car to start pogoing mid-corner. Again, something is just not right.
I have made multiple adjustments to the suspension, front and rear, and the best settings for the street in my opinion, and on my car, seem to be when I am set to full Race. That is the most compliant ride that I am able to get on the street. The problem is that I cannot go any further...and cannot help but feel that if I could, my ride would improve even more. But again, I cannot help but wonder about the compression valving.
I am starting to lean heavily towards the mountune kit...
First, will be to see if YCW can look at my kit, then I will have some time with the stock suspension again. And since I know exactly where to go to find bumps that I currently have to slow down for,(and that I am pretty sure that I never slowed down for previously) I will go run the car over them to compare before and after and back to before. This kit has me driving differently than I used to. Some of the bumps that really upset the car cannot even be seen!!! I just know where they are due to conditioned human response, and the ingrained desire to avoid further trauma to both me and the car. :)
You are describing my exact experience. I have mine set 2 clicks from full soft, and the ride is extremely harsh. Ive been chalking it up to maybe just unrealistic expectations with coilovers, and maybe these are more performance focused, but i dont hear of these experiences with other coils in this segment like Fortune or KW. The potholes and medium bumps feel like i'm on the verge of shattering a wheel, or my spine. Don't know if something is wrong or if I should just sell these for another set. At this point i'm really worried its only a matter of time before I break something on the car because of how harsh the ride is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Sorry to hear that.
YCW will take them back and re-valve them free of charge. (or so I am told). But the problem is that you need to ship them to Hong Kong! Now, even with the springs removed (which they should be), that will be several hundred dollars to ship to China. Then with customs, you will be in transportation close to a month...and that is not taking into consideration the work once in country.
I still have my stock suspension, but to be honest, I'm not sure how to communicate what it is that I want.
I am basically fully on "T", or stiff for Track. And that is the smoothest ride that I can get out of these things.

I will be taking a good look at them, resetting the preload (5mm front, and 10mm rear), seeing as I did not set them the first time around -and I know that I got the rear incorrect...I did not set any preload. The front is less than 1mm preload (it was basically snugged by hand then installed).
I still am not pleased that I only have 5 clicks on three corners and 3 clicks on the 4th.
I have started to look into shops that can repair or rebuild coilovers since it would very likely cost less than shipping overseas, not to mention the ability to talk to someone either in face or over the phone.
I never tightened the top nut either, but I was under the impression that they were set from the factory...so that is another area that I will try to investigate -but I don't believe I can do this on the car.

I would even consider the KW DDC kit for the Focus RS if I didn't think that I could improve what I have already. I wonder if you could still set up a means to select the different rates...Seems like a cool thing that KW could offer for other cars as well (using an APP to adjust suspension would work for me).

Anyway, keep me updated on what you end up doing. I am guessing that YCW has some QA issues on these units...seeing as some of the other guys on here have different features, or missing some etc.
 

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Sorry to hear that.
YCW will take them back and re-valve them free of charge. (or so I am told). But the problem is that you need to ship them to Hong Kong! Now, even with the springs removed (which they should be), that will be several hundred dollars to ship to China. Then with customs, you will be in transportation close to a month...and that is not taking into consideration the work once in country.
I still have my stock suspension, but to be honest, I'm not sure how to communicate what it is that I want.
I am basically fully on "T", or stiff for Track. And that is the smoothest ride that I can get out of these things.

I will be taking a good look at them, resetting the preload (5mm front, and 10mm rear), seeing as I did not set them the first time around -and I know that I got the rear incorrect...I did not set any preload. The front is less than 1mm preload (it was basically snugged by hand then installed).
I still am not pleased that I only have 5 clicks on three corners and 3 clicks on the 4th.
I have started to look into shops that can repair or rebuild coilovers since it would very likely cost less than shipping overseas, not to mention the ability to talk to someone either in face or over the phone.
I never tightened the top nut either, but I was under the impression that they were set from the factory...so that is another area that I will try to investigate -but I don't believe I can do this on the car.

I would even consider the KW DDC kit for the Focus RS if I didn't think that I could improve what I have already. I wonder if you could still set up a means to select the different rates...Seems like a cool thing that KW could offer for other cars as well (using an APP to adjust suspension would work for me).

Anyway, keep me updated on what you end up doing. I am guessing that YCW has some QA issues on these units...seeing as some of the other guys on here have different features, or missing some etc.
You don't need to ship them to HK. You can ship them to our Socal facility if you are in North America, our UK facility if you are in Europe, or our HK facility if you are in Asia.

We can turn around the dampers within 1-2 days after we receive them. We ship them back via UPS Express, which is only takes 1-2 days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
You don't need to ship them to HK. You can ship them to our Socal facility if you are in North America, our UK facility if you are in Europe, or our HK facility if you are in Asia.

We can turn around the dampers within 1-2 days after we receive them. We ship them back via UPS Express, which is only takes 1-2 days.
Hello MFactory guy,

I have been trying to call you guys and the phone just rings forever. I was actually thinking that you might have closed shop, and I stopped calling.
Do you have a name and number?
I have many questions...and if you are in the US, shipping the units to you would be far less traumatic. I would very much like to get these properly setup, as I just finished setting them up again (this time my aim was to do it correctly now that I have more information) and I still was left with questions. In fact, setting up the rears was difficult because I tried to match the ride height by measuring the threads on the rear spring, but then the preloads looked much different (sounds strange, but in summary, the Right side and Left side could either be matched for ride height or preload, but not both...).

I am tracking the car on Monday, and can pull the suspension off after that. I would very much like to get the same number of clicks on each corner. I would also like to know if the top collar is installed properly, as it can rattle when the car is on stands, and that doesn't seem right to me. But it does it on both fronts...
I just can't help feeling something is not quite right. It might be the front damper that only has 3 clicks...

Anyway, I hope to hear back.
Oh, and after setting the rear preload, I notice that the ride has improved somewhat. Not drastic, but it is better, with less "warbling" noise on extension than I had before.

Mike
 

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If you called our 909-592-5933 number, that's our MFactory facility in San Dimas. At present, this is setup only for our Transmission side of the business, so calling won't really be of much help technical wise and they would just tell you to email me.

If you called my cell (the 4095 number), if there is no answer, it is probably because of the timezone difference (I'm normally anywhere between 8-16hrs ahead of you, depending on where I am in the world!). If you email or PM though, I almost always respond within 24hrs

Of course, you can still ship the dampers (just the dampers. No springs/mounts etc) to our Socal facility, and we will then forward it onto our UK or HK facility for rebuild (depending on the schedule). This only takes a couple days, as we have air shipments back and forth between all 3 facilities several times per week

With regards to the upper mount bolt/collar, we actually have a revised design that should be ready in a couple weeks time. I can include these with your re-valved dampers.
 

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If you called our 909-592-5933 number, that's our MFactory facility in San Dimas. At present, this is setup only for our Transmission side of the business, so calling won't really be of much help technical wise and they would just tell you to email me.

If you called my cell (the 4095 number), if there is no answer, it is probably because of the timezone difference (I'm normally anywhere between 8-16hrs ahead of you, depending on where I am in the world!). If you email or PM though, I almost always respond within 24hrs

Of course, you can still ship the dampers (just the dampers. No springs/mounts etc) to our Socal facility, and we will then forward it onto our UK or HK facility for rebuild (depending on the schedule). This only takes a couple days, as we have air shipments back and forth between all 3 facilities several times per week

With regards to the upper mount bolt/collar, we actually have a revised design that should be ready in a couple weeks time. I can include these with your re-valved dampers.
What different with the redesign?

Sent from another garage.
 

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Some customers were getting knocking noises after a while from the front upper mounts. Turned out to be the nut coming loose over time. With our current design, the nut and sleeve (that slots into the spherical bearing) is 1pc, so if there is a lot of movement (generally over uneven roads/surfaces), this can knock it loose. Temp. fix was to loctite the nut and torque to 45lbs. Perm. fix was to use a 2nd nut on top as a "locking" nut.

With our revised design, the nut and sleeve are separate, so no matter how much movement there is with the sleeve, the nut won't come loose.
 

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Some customers were getting knocking noises after a while from the front upper mounts. Turned out to be the nut coming loose over time. With our current design, the nut and sleeve (that slots into the spherical bearing) is 1pc, so if there is a lot of movement (generally over uneven roads/surfaces), this can knock it loose. Temp. fix was to loctite the nut and torque to 45lbs. Perm. fix was to use a 2nd nut on top as a "locking" nut.

With our revised design, the nut and sleeve are separate, so no matter how much movement there is with the sleeve, the nut won't come loose.
Nice.

Sent from another garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
MFactory,

Not sure that it matters, but I am still unclear on some things.
When I purchased the coilovers, I was able to speak to a person and they indicated that they would be getting a shock dyno setup in California. Then in your response in post #69 you state that we ship them to San Dimas and you turn them around in 1-2 days, suggesting that the work is now performed in CA. However, in your post above (post #71) you state that I should ship them to you w/o springs, and that you would ship them to HK, suggesting that you do not have a shop in CA.
So, do you perform any work in CA or not?
If you do, do I keep the springs in place so that you can address the "warbling" noise that I get during extension, or do you not need the springs for that?
I also have a damaged adjuster...I honestly do not know if it arrive that way or not, but I cannot imagine that I did it since there is nothing to hit the threads of the damper in my car as I drilled out both the strut tower as well as the strut tower brace (as can be seen in the video in this thread) with a 3" holesaw. The reason that I do not know is that I did not notice until I tried the range of adjustments and found that it only had 3 clicks. My eyesight was not able to pick this up without wearing reading glasses, which I don't often wear when working on the car.
More questions:
Any ideas why I only have 5 clicks on 3 corners, while others state that they have 6 clicks (7 positions)?
If I remove the springs to ship to you, will you be able to provide the proper torque values for when I re-assemble the springs?
Will a shock dyno be used to ensure that dampening curves are matched between the left and right sides?
Does the front to rear need to match damping rates as well? -just curious on this.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Hey Mike,

all valid questions, and I'll try to answer them as clearly as possible.

Socal Facility: This has been our (MFactory) facility for the past 10 years. As most already know, MFactory (as a brand) offers transmission components, and our facility handles sales, servicing and warehousing

YCW Engineering: This is the parent company for MFactory (as mentioned, MFactory is a brand), and in 2016, we decided to expand our product range to include suspension components. This set in motion a plan to develop a new line of suspension components, one that is now known as YCW Suspension (You can view our work-in-progress website, due to go launch in June/July. Note, this is NOT live yet, but I am letting you guys take a preview: YCW Suspension - Over-Engineered for Performance, Comfort & Safety).

of course, our plan was (and still is) to have sales, servicing and warehousing facilities in all 3 of our locations (US, UK and HK), unfortunately, delays happen with new projects, especially ones that cost over 7 figures to implement. Whilst we have been able to carry out basic servicing from our UK and HK facilities over the past year, it has only been recently (the past few months) where our R&D section has been made operational (and both our UK and HK facilities are still being renovated for this task, due to be finished in June/July) which is what handles our tuning/valving side. Roehrig dynos are made-to-order, so that in itself took a few months.

unfortunately, due to our Socal facility being our "legacy" facility rather than "purpose-built" like our UK and HK facilities, for the time being, it still only serves as our logistics/warehousing facility in North America, which is why anything sent in will then be forwarded on to either our UK or HK facilities for any servicing/valving work as we simply don't have the staff nor equipment to handle this at present from our Socal facility.

Warbling Noise: I would need more details on this issue that you are having so that I can correctly diagnose the issue. Please could you email me directly with as much information as possible: info @ ycwengineering.com

Adjusters: I'm not sure why you only have limited clicks, but there should be 0-6 (7 levels, 6 clicks) on the adjusters. We will fix this when we rebuild your dampers for you. It could be as simple as one of the ball detents coming loose. Clicks are only an audible reference to how far you've opened the needle valve in the shaft; whether you hear them or not makes zero difference to the damping adjustment

Torque values: No part of the assembly of the coilovers themselves, aside from the top mount bolt (45lbs with loctite red), needs to be torqued down.

Shock Dyno: Yes, when we rebuild/revalve your dampers, left and right dampers will be matched (we get into this in a LOT of detail on our new website. If you are interested in suspension theory, our new website is a must read). Front/Rear don't need to be matched on the dyno, but any changes in Front/Rear bias will change the handling characteristics of your vehicle. Again, this is explained in detail on our new website

If you have any further questions, or if anything is unclear, please don't hesitate to ask

MFactory,

Not sure that it matters, but I am still unclear on some things.
When I purchased the coilovers, I was able to speak to a person and they indicated that they would be getting a shock dyno setup in California. Then in your response in post #69 you state that we ship them to San Dimas and you turn them around in 1-2 days, suggesting that the work is now performed in CA. However, in your post above (post #71) you state that I should ship them to you w/o springs, and that you would ship them to HK, suggesting that you do not have a shop in CA.
So, do you perform any work in CA or not?
If you do, do I keep the springs in place so that you can address the "warbling" noise that I get during extension, or do you not need the springs for that?
I also have a damaged adjuster...I honestly do not know if it arrive that way or not, but I cannot imagine that I did it since there is nothing to hit the threads of the damper in my car as I drilled out both the strut tower as well as the strut tower brace (as can be seen in the video in this thread) with a 3" holesaw. The reason that I do not know is that I did not notice until I tried the range of adjustments and found that it only had 3 clicks. My eyesight was not able to pick this up without wearing reading glasses, which I don't often wear when working on the car.
More questions:
Any ideas why I only have 5 clicks on 3 corners, while others state that they have 6 clicks (7 positions)?
If I remove the springs to ship to you, will you be able to provide the proper torque values for when I re-assemble the springs?
Will a shock dyno be used to ensure that dampening curves are matched between the left and right sides?
Does the front to rear need to match damping rates as well? -just curious on this.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Hey Mike,

all valid questions, and I'll try to answer them as clearly as possible.

Socal Facility: This has been our (MFactory) facility for the past 10 years. As most already know, MFactory (as a brand) offers transmission components, and our facility handles sales, servicing and warehousing

YCW Engineering: This is the parent company for MFactory (as mentioned, MFactory is a brand), and in 2016, we decided to expand our product range to include suspension components. This set in motion a plan to develop a new line of suspension components, one that is now known as YCW Suspension (You can view our work-in-progress website, due to go launch in June/July. Note, this is NOT live yet, but I am letting you guys take a preview: YCW Suspension - Over-Engineered for Performance, Comfort & Safety).

of course, our plan was (and still is) to have sales, servicing and warehousing facilities in all 3 of our locations (US, UK and HK), unfortunately, delays happen with new projects, especially ones that cost over 7 figures to implement. Whilst we have been able to carry out basic servicing from our UK and HK facilities over the past year, it has only been recently (the past few months) where our R&D section has been made operational (and both our UK and HK facilities are still being renovated for this task, due to be finished in June/July) which is what handles our tuning/valving side. Roehrig dynos are made-to-order, so that in itself took a few months.

unfortunately, due to our Socal facility being our "legacy" facility rather than "purpose-built" like our UK and HK facilities, for the time being, it still only serves as our logistics/warehousing facility in North America, which is why anything sent in will then be forwarded on to either our UK or HK facilities for any servicing/valving work as we simply don't have the staff nor equipment to handle this at present from our Socal facility.

Warbling Noise: I would need more details on this issue that you are having so that I can correctly diagnose the issue. Please could you email me directly with as much information as possible: info @ ycwengineering.com

Adjusters: I'm not sure why you only have limited clicks, but there should be 0-6 (7 levels, 6 clicks) on the adjusters. We will fix this when we rebuild your dampers for you. It could be as simple as one of the ball detents coming loose. Clicks are only an audible reference to how far you've opened the needle valve in the shaft; whether you hear them or not makes zero difference to the damping adjustment

Torque values: No part of the assembly of the coilovers themselves, aside from the top mount bolt (45lbs with loctite red), needs to be torqued down.

Shock Dyno: Yes, when we rebuild/revalve your dampers, left and right dampers will be matched (we get into this in a LOT of detail on our new website. If you are interested in suspension theory, our new website is a must read). Front/Rear don't need to be matched on the dyno, but any changes in Front/Rear bias will change the handling characteristics of your vehicle. Again, this is explained in detail on our new website

If you have any further questions, or if anything is unclear, please don't hesitate to ask

Hi,

To continue this dialogue, how is YCW responding to the concerns about overly harsh rides when installed on Focus STs? On the manufacturer side, is this believed to be due to a defect in the coilover, or improper installation? Are the coilovers meant to have very stiff rides? Are these spring rates more performance/track oriented than street?

Also, it should be known that when uninstalling my coilovers, the front two adjustment knobs were both damaged, and one had snapped off, leaving the the little rod underneath the knob inside the coilover. I had not modified my front strut brace to access these adjustment knobs, and as a result both were damaged. I think this should be mentioned in the instructions when installing.
 

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Our response has been the exact same response that I have given in this thread; customers can run their current setup and figure out what/if they find harsh/soft/bouncy/jarring/bumpy etc etc, and we will re-valve the dampers for them free of charge. What every customer "feels" is different from another customer. There is no 1 correct answer/reply to your question

To give an example, no one in Asia would dream of running a 6K spring rate. If it's not at least 10K, then it's not "race" enough and there would be no point (in their opinion) installing a coilover kit. This is why our business is built around fully custom dampers (i.e valved to whatever spring rate you want). Unfortunately, 90% of customers don't know what they want until they've tried/tested the coilovers.
 
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