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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
My only pictures are in my build thread. I would recommend before installing the rear shocks to use something like a sharpie and make the bottom of the carpet through the hole in the body.

Sent from another galaxy.
I will try to take notes if possible... Usually I don't once my hands get grimy...

CrashMW
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Ok, so I actually took some notes this time.
I decided that I would rather not pull apart the interior panels, so pulled the shocks and drilled a hole through the carpet from the bottom.
The extenders that come with the YCW coilovers are very long, too long in fact, and like UnfocussedST, I trimmed mine. Unlike him, I drilled the holes large enough to pass the cable housing, but elected to not even run the housing when I was done.

Here is the view from below, to the top mount. If you look closely, you can see that I already drilled the hole, which I later opened up from the interior by hand using a larger bit...
Auto part
It is a straight shot, so I got creative with extensions and a drill bit to make the hole in the carpet.
Product Tool
I then passed the shock adjustment extender through the carpeting, and put the union on before trying to bring the shock into place as I could not get it to work if already installed on the shock...plus, this way you don't have to try to poke the extender up into a hole that you cant see.
Water Plumbing fixture Sink Plumbing
and then I attached the union to the shock adjuster...
Tool accessory

And done, after a bit of trimming the extension itself using wire cutters...
Vehicle Car Vehicle door


I was really worried about this part of the install, but the carpet is literally about an inch away from the opening in the body. So it was not difficult at all. Plus, I did not have to pull any interior pieces, meaning all the carpet stayed in place the entire time. The best part is the hole in the carpet is difficult to see should you ever want to remove things.
 

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Yeah, I went back and installed my rear adjusters this afternoon, but I went the opposite direction and took the rear carpeting out. It wasn't too bad - I think I spent about an hour doing both sides. I also got my TB strut bar installed up front, so I installed the front adjusters as well (and got the wipers back on in the right spot the first time).

On a side note, is the ride still improved for you since you moved away from full soft? Last I remember seeing, you had done the fronts and it had improved, but you still had to do the rears. Glad to see you making progress and hope you are enjoying the ride better!
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I didn't drive it yet with the rears adjusted to one turn in. Will do tomorrow.
How do you like your ride? What are your settings?

I
 

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When I installed my rear extenders over the weekend, I set everything to two clicks in from full soft/street, which is the same as what UnfocusedST has his set to. The ride is still a little stiff due to the linear springs, but I like how the ride feels now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
When I installed my rear extenders over the weekend, I set everything to two clicks in from full soft/street, which is the same as what UnfocusedST has his set to. The ride is still a little stiff due to the linear springs, but I like how the ride feels now.
Good to hear. I'm still chasing noises on suspension unloading. Thinking perhaps the sway bar mounting.
Any chance you have pictures of the day bar end links installed? I wanna see if mine might be too extended.
I did not install them with the suspension loaded like I should have. So will revisit this weekend.

CrashMW
 

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Good to hear. I'm still chasing noises on suspension unloading. Thinking perhaps the sway bar mounting.
Any chance you have pictures of the day bar end links installed? I wanna see if mine might be too extended.
I did not install them with the suspension loaded like I should have. So will revisit this weekend.

CrashMW
I have my front endlinks at their shortest length. I won't say this is correct for my height but I know they don't hit.

Sent from another galaxy.
 

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At the risk of getting jumped in a dark alley for asking a question that may have been covered, has anyone discussed how/why to adjust the length of the shock on the rear? I still haven't haven't wrapped my brain around that one, or what the goal should be. The spring determines ride height; what does adjusting the shock do? Or are you adjusting it just to ensure you have enough travel length in it?
 

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At the risk of getting jumped in a dark alley for asking a question that may have been covered, has anyone discussed how/why to adjust the length of the shock on the rear? I still haven't haven't wrapped my brain around that one, or what the goal should be. The spring determines ride height; what does adjusting the shock do? Or are you adjusting it just to ensure you have enough travel length in it?
It adjusts preload for the rear. Also let's you adjust the shock to the proper height so damage won't occur from bottoming out or over extending.

Sent from another galaxy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
It adjusts preload for the rear. Also let's you adjust the shock to the proper height so damage won't occur from bottoming out or over extending.

Sent from another galaxy.
Well, count me in. I am confused as well.
How does the shock/damper length adjustment have any effect on preload?
I too am wondering how to properly set the damper free length... Since once compressed it does not return to it's free length (at least not very quickly... As in several seconds at best.
I assumed that it can be used to limit rear suspension travel, but in not sure how to properly set it up to do so.

CrashMW
 

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Well, count me in. I am confused as well.
How does the shock/damper length adjustment have any effect on preload?
I too am wondering how to properly set the damper free length... Since once compressed it does not return to it's free length (at least not very quickly... As in several seconds at best.
I assumed that it can be used to limit rear suspension travel, but in not sure how to properly set it up to do so.

CrashMW
The big thing about the rear preload is the make sure the spring doesn't pop out when the suspension goes full droop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I don't like how the spring sits when the car is on stands.. It's just one edge, the inside edge that is in contact with the seat.

CrashMW
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I have not adjusted it in the rear. Ran out of time prepping the car for today's track event.
So, in summary, I re-installed the front coilovers, set the height, bolted everything down with the suspension loaded. Then swapped out new rotors (2 piece), new pads (Carbotech XP10) and new fluid, Motul RBF600.
I ran out of time to get the rears, but will get that eventually, but the car handled awesome at the track. I ran 2 seconds faster than I did at the end of July, and that was with a passenger (no passenger in July on my fast lap). I was able to run the same laptimes fairly repeatably. Up until my brakes faded. I am so tired of boiling over the brakes. At least in July, the brakes came back after cooling down. After my 4th session today, my day was over. I went out for my 5th session, and my brakes were almost to the floor and no amount of pumping them up would bring em back. Anyway, I feel that the suspension really shined on the track, and I was convinced that I could shave more time off on my last session, but it was not to be.
Anyway, wheels coming back off, will check all bolts again, and will adjust the rear shocks to reduce unloaded travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Update:
4 months into the YCWs.
I was just reading over my thread...I noticed that I neglected to mention that I had found the noise in the front end. I mean, I mentioned that I adjusted the sway bar end links...what I did not mention was that shortening them resulted in eliminating the noise. The swaybar was almost sitting on the lower control arm, so when I hit bumps, it would make contact. Easily fixed. What is not finalized, is what is the proper orientation for the swaybar...
I have yet to adjust the rear damper to use to limit the extension of the rear spring. I have been (what feels like) working on my wife's mini cooper S for the last 4 weekends trying to fix an oil leak...now those cars are fun cars, but total POS to work on. I now have to find a front end noise not related to anything that I worked on, that was not there before I worked on the car...yeah.

Anyway, I am trying to contact YCW again to see if I can send in my setup to have looked at. I feel that something is just not right. The car really hates bumps...of all types. Square edged bumps are understandable, but undulations can send my car airborne (at least it feels that way). I am not happy with the setup. It worked well on the track, but I might do 5 track events this year, so I need a streetable setup. I am not one to sell my stuff (for instance, I still have the TB strut tower brace...), so I really hope that YCW will take the suspension and look it over. They should have a shock dyno by now, and can hopefully find something that is amiss.
It feels to me like there is simply next to no compression damping. A 1" square edged bump (think steel plate) feels like a major traumatic event. Undulations in the road that the wheel SHOULD track smoothly over, result in the suspension bottom out VERY harshly. Similar bumps have resulted in my car feeling like it was launched into the air.
I still feel that the damage to the threads in one of the earlier images might be indicative of an issue. I am hoping that it is. That maybe the result is an imbalance in the front end causing my issues.
I now have the Mfactory LSD installed, and on smooth corners at low speed (under acceleration) I can get the intervention of the LSD to cause the car to start pogoing mid-corner. Again, something is just not right.
I have made multiple adjustments to the suspension, front and rear, and the best settings for the street in my opinion, and on my car, seem to be when I am set to full Race. That is the most compliant ride that I am able to get on the street. The problem is that I cannot go any further...and cannot help but feel that if I could, my ride would improve even more. But again, I cannot help but wonder about the compression valving.
I am starting to lean heavily towards the mountune kit...
First, will be to see if YCW can look at my kit, then I will have some time with the stock suspension again. And since I know exactly where to go to find bumps that I currently have to slow down for,(and that I am pretty sure that I never slowed down for previously) I will go run the car over them to compare before and after and back to before. This kit has me driving differently than I used to. Some of the bumps that really upset the car cannot even be seen!!! I just know where they are due to conditioned human response, and the ingrained desire to avoid further trauma to both me and the car. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
What do you mean by how I have it adjusted?
I am not slammed, that is for sure. And I am full race in the rear, and middle settings in the front (will change on the way home tonight).
Also, no signs of leaks from the shocks...but I will pull the wheels again in a few weeks (car goes into body shop tomorrow for a week).

Regards,
M
 

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What do you mean by how I have it adjusted?
I am not slammed, that is for sure. And I am full race in the rear, and middle settings in the front (will change on the way home tonight).
Also, no signs of leaks from the shocks...but I will pull the wheels again in a few weeks (car goes into body shop tomorrow for a week).

Regards,
M
I think I'm only one click up front and rear from the lowest setting. You might have it set too hard on the dampening.

Sent from another garage.
 
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