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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started to install coilovers yesterday and only got the front done. Ran out of time. Biggest issue was getting the suspension to drop down far enough to get the button of the strut out of the lower arm. None is a 16, so the instructions/videos on the web made it look easy. Ended up using a length of wood and a small floor jack to compress the spring from below and that worked.
Then got it all in place and the car was way too low. While it is only the front end right now, it was crashing hard over bumps, so I raised it up another 3/4". Rides better now but still thinking I got to get the rears installed before making a final decision.
I'm thinking it is the geometry, but torque steer is worse right now.
I ran without the cowling, and boy do you hear a lot of noises that I did think our cars made. It even sounded like having a blow off valve, as I could hear the shhh, between shifts. Entertaining.
But, I put everything back together with the stock strut tower brace, even though I have the TB performance unit that I used as a pilot for the 3" holes. I was concerned that if I hacked the cowling in order to fit the TB bar that those previously mentioned noises would remain, and I would not want to live with that.
I have the dampers set to full soft or street.

CrashMW
 

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Also I would recommend driving without doing the rears also.

Sent from another galaxy.
You would, or would not recommend driving without doing the rears? Not that it's unsafe, but seems like it'd be a very unbalance comparison to drive around with the rear not done to match the front.

That's why I went with the Mountune brace as I am unwilling to remove or mod that cowling for what seems reasons you just mentioned.

Are you upgrading any other components in conjunction with the install; camber arms, tie rod ends, rear sway bar end links, etc? Curious to see what your alignment specs turn out to be. Mine are still sitting on the shelf waiting to go on. had some other projects overrule this one.
 

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You would, or would not recommend driving without doing the rears? Not that it's unsafe, but seems like it'd be a very unbalance comparison to drive around with the rear not done to match the front.

That's why I went with the Mountune brace as I am unwilling to remove or mod that cowling for what seems reasons you just mentioned.

Are you upgrading any other components in conjunction with the install; camber arms, tie rod ends, rear sway bar end links, etc? Curious to see what your alignment specs turn out to be. Mine are still sitting on the shelf waiting to go on. had some other projects overrule this one.
Sorry typo.

As for the TB bar I am running that. The cowl modification is pretty easy. Trim some plastic and your golden. The Mountune bar only works with their and oem intakes. Also needs to be used with the OEM bar.

Sent from another galaxy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
More about my install.
The reason that I cant install the rear right now is I sorta need help. I tweaked my back yesterday morning playing tennis, and installing the front end with a friend about wiped me out. I am hurting today.
I do want to install the rear...just worried that I might not have 2 hours left in me (back issues suck). We are planning on doing it next weekend...though I am kicking around the idea of trying to do it tonight...

I did have a small issue with the YCW drop links. After mounting up the passenger side, we got started on the driver side. When I got to the drop link, I was backing it out in order to insert it into the strut mount and I ran out of threads...the unit came apart. So I had to put it back together (tighten up lock nuts) and then force it into place. When I removed the stock drop links, they came out easily as there was zero tension on them. I like when things go back together the same way that they came apart...so this was certainly an exception. I have both sides within about a 1/8 of an inch (threads showing). So there should be no issues.

I have not purchased anything for the rear of the car. I am hoping that I do not need anything, though I am concerned about binding, but do not know what is the right rear end link to go with the YCW rears...
I did not think about tie rod ends either...do I need them as well?
I have a track day on the 30th, and want to be ready for that more than anything.
Now I am thinking that maybe I better try today...so that if I need anything, I have time to order it up.

Don't know what to do...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ooops. That might explain things.
I have them right now, but might pull the front off.

This is my first time doing coils, and I am running into my share is issues due to unfamiliarity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well i finished the install. Couldn't stand looking at the car in stinkbug mode...plus I wanted to get a change to drive it and let it settle a bit.
Only drove around the block thus far, and it is a lot bouncier than I was thinking it would be. (again, my first time with coilovers).
I will drive them through the end of the month at least, getting in a track day during that time.
I hate the idea of doing all the work over again...so hoping that the bounciness subsides, or I get used to it.
If I have to pull it all off, it will likely be for the mountune kit...which should still be an improvement over stock.
20171015_YCW install.jpg
 

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Also if you are too low and running too soft of a spring rate i.e. the standard 4k/5k that come with this setup, the ride will be pretty bouncy as they will be out of their effective operating range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Also if you are too low and running too soft of a spring rate i.e. the standard 4k/5k that come with this setup, the ride will be pretty bouncy as they will be out of their effective operating range.
I think my drop is under an inch.. I'm sitting at around 3.25" from lip to rim at all 4 corners. So I'm not slammed.
I'm running full soft on all 4 corners as well. Though I need to double check the left rear...

CrashMW
 

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I installed mine over the weekend, but still need to go back and install the extenders for the rears (I think I'm going to pull the shocks back out and see if I can use a center punch to mark the carpet directly above the adjustment knob). When I put them in, I have initially set the dampening in the middle between track and street. I left the ride height set where it was out of the box just to see where it ended up and actually like it as I ended up with a slight drop (between 0.25" and 0.50" drop right now). I might lower it a little more after I have some more time to look at the car and determine whether I still like the ride height where it currently is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
JDW How is your ride? Is it bouncy?
I left my fronts almost as they arrived from the factory, but there was zero preload from the factory as delivered...I could rattle the spring.
Also, I had to raise the car as it was just too low for my liking after installing (though it looked nice)

As for the rear, I will read up on UnfocuST's build and hopefully your notes...
I don't cherish the idea of taking the rear shock back out...that lower damper/shock bolt is a major ***** to get to..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I noticed that UnfocusedSTs rear height is MUCH different than mine. My collar is difficult to access as it is up in the upper spring mount, though not so far that I cannot reach it...Odd.
I wonder if it is a result of the 2016 being different than the 2014s? I found a few other issues that earlier cars apparently did not have...
 

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I noticed that UnfocusedSTs rear height is MUCH different than mine. My collar is difficult to access as it is up in the upper spring mount, though not so far that I cannot reach it...Odd.
I wonder if it is a result of the 2016 being different than the 2014s? I found a few other issues that earlier cars apparently did not have...
To adjust mine I had to remove the spring in the rear. The rear of the cars should be identical since the only changed to the suspension are with the front perch mounts that requires different springs.
 

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JDW How is your ride? Is it bouncy?
I left my fronts almost as they arrived from the factory, but there was zero preload from the factory as delivered...I could rattle the spring.
Also, I had to raise the car as it was just too low for my liking after installing (though it looked nice)

As for the rear, I will read up on UnfocuST's build and hopefully your notes...
I don't cherish the idea of taking the rear shock back out...that lower damper/shock bolt is a major ***** to get to..
My ride isn't really bouncy, just stiff (best way I can think of to describe it). It seems bouncy, but that is just because of the road surface, the struts/shocks themselves are not bouncing excessively best I can tell. I've had a car before that was on coilovers (Tein Basics, which had no dampening adjustment, with pillowball upper mounts on a Nissan Sentra) and it feels similar to how I remember those riding.

For the time being, I've left my ride height collars where they were straight out of the box and am going to give it a little time before I drop it to make sure it doesn't settle out any further (showed 0.125" of drop after initial install and then settled another 0.25" in the front after a drive around the block), so I still have to set my final ride height. I checked my spring preload before and after installation and didn't have to make any adjustments as I could not rattle the springs.

Based on what I noticed while installing the rear shocks and springs, the spring will need to come back out in order to raise/lower the height collar, but it should just be a matter of the one bolt at the bottom of the spindle that goes through the control arm, which was fairly easy to get out. The part I had a little difficulty with was getting the control arm back into the spindle and getting everything to line up easily. While the spring is out, the bolt at the bottom of the shock is easy enough to get to so that the shock can be pulled out and the extenders installed.
 
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