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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This might seem painfully ignorant of me, but I still feel like I should ask. Here's hoping that I don't get flamed.

I have the kit sitting in my garage waiting to get installed. I am thinking early October.
I have never had coilovers before, and am wondering how to set them up on the bench before installing.
How should I set the height for starters?
Do I need to set preload as well?
I did not purchase these to slam the car...but to improve on track performance and tunability.
I understand that in the highest position, there is still about 3/4 to 1 inch of drop...which is perfect for me. So, how do I confirm they are set this way before putting on the car? I realize that I will likely still need to adjust... But I want to be as close as possible so that I only need to make small changes... Since it would be much easier off the car .

Do I need to set droop if I'm not slamming the car? Meaning do I need to remove the spring and adjust so I don't hit the bump stop on the front and rear? Or is this already too go on the ST?

Everyone makes it sound simple, but I am an ME and know that there is more to it than just bolting on. And I mean in addition to corner balancing...

Thanks in advance

Mike

CrashMW
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For preload I adjusted the spring perch 1/4 of an inch. The rear you adjust the shock for preload. As for height I installed mine and seen where they sat and adjusted from there. You should be able to get stock ride height out of these or very close.

Sent from another galaxy.
Is there a right way to adjust the rear shock for preload? Too much preload can damage a damper by forcing shock body (damper) to handle the function of limiting the extension of the suspension... Or am I missing something?

How did you arrive at 0.25 for the front?
I am not calling you out at all. Just shifting through different instructions that I keep reading. Many suggest zero preload... Meaning adjusted so that the perch just snug up to the spring... Others say that preload gets adjusted by splitting the droop with the preload to get heights changed. It is very confusing.

I know you like your setup, but you also say it is firm, but that you also run stiffer springs than is standard. There is another on here that says his is really firm as well, but I think he has std spring rates, and I have not read anywhere about the adjustment of the dampers, etc. So if you are running preload on stiffer springs (even straight rate) could that contribute to the ride?

I only add this last paragraph anecdotally to explain that I'm not looking for a barcalounger. I do not mind a stiffer suspension as long as it is controlled. For example in the 80s, BMWs had very stiff suspensions, but they were also amazingly compliant compared to others during that time. The ST is very good in that regard, but loses that composure on the track a bit.

CrashMW
 

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The stiffer ride is from running linear springs. As for the preload I went off the manufacturers recommendations from when I had Fortune Auto coilovers. Basicly you want to make sure the spring isn't loose at all. That's why I preloaded like I did. With the height of the car on the springs it will compress even more. So my preload should affect ride comfort.

Sent from another galaxy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The stiffer ride is from running linear springs. As for the preload I went off the manufacturers recommendations from when I had Fortune Auto coilovers. Basicly you want to make sure the spring isn't loose at all. That's why I preloaded like I did. With the height of the car on the springs it will compress even more. So my preload should affect ride comfort.

Sent from another galaxy.
Does the body need to be threaded into the base a certain amount?
Did you guesstimate your ride height by comparing against the stock strut that you removed?
For a 3/4 inch drop, how much of the threads should be exposed? (locking collar to locking collar?) assuming that you recall.

Sorry for so many questions, and thank you for your help. I truly appreciate it.


CrashMW
 

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Does the body need to be threaded into the base a certain amount?
Did you guesstimate your ride height by comparing against the stock strut that you removed?
For a 3/4 inch drop, how much of the threads should be exposed? (locking collar to locking collar?) assuming that you recall.

Sorry for so many questions, and thank you for your help. I truly appreciate it.


CrashMW
This is my fronts at almost full drop.


Sent from another galaxy.
 

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The stiffer ride is from running linear springs. As for the preload I went off the manufacturers recommendations from when I had Fortune Auto coilovers. Basicly you want to make sure the spring isn't loose at all. That's why I preloaded like I did. With the height of the car on the springs it will compress even more. So my preload should affect ride comfort.

Sent from another galaxy.
Are you able to eliminate the stock wheel gap with these coils? I just ordered mine and I by no means want to slam my car, but i'd like to eliminate as much wheel gap as possible in conjunction with taking advantage of all the other benefits these coils have to offer.
 

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Are you able to eliminate the stock wheel gap with these coils? I just ordered mine and I by no means want to slam my car, but i'd like to eliminate as much wheel gap as possible in conjunction with taking advantage of all the other benefits these coils have to offer.
Please see the above picture.

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In terms of preload, it's simple. 5-10mm, or about 1/4". This is pretty normal.

In terms of getting ride height done... You need to put it all on, in your car. Do NOT tighten the locking bolts on the lower front strut.
Put on wheels, and lower car to the ground.
Take measurements and compare to measurements you had before you started your work. You did do that right? :p

Then raise car back up, remove wheel, step on hub to remove coilover from lower mount. adjust as needed
repeat above steps.

No two cars will be alike. weight, tires, flatness of driveway, the angle at which you're looking at. So many variables, just bolt it in and start adjusting to YOUR liking. This is why I hate coilovers.

I laugh at the folks that say they want to slam it in the summer and raise it in the winter. only 1 in 100 people actually go through with it, since it's a lot of work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In terms of preload, it's simple. 5-10mm, or about 1/4". This is pretty normal.

In terms of getting ride height done... You need to put it all on, in your car. Do NOT tighten the locking bolts on the lower front strut.
Put on wheels, and lower car to the ground.
Take measurements and compare to measurements you had before you started your work. You did do that right?

Then raise car back up, remove wheel, step on hub to remove coilover from lower mount. adjust as needed
repeat above steps.

No two cars will be alike. weight, tires, flatness of driveway, the angle at which you're looking at. So many variables, just bolt it in and start adjusting to YOUR liking. This is why I hate coilovers.

I laugh at the folks that say they want to slam it in the summer and raise it in the winter. only 1 in 100 people actually go through with it, since it's a lot of work.
You are saying that to adjust the height, you have to remove the coilover from the lower control arm (hub)?
I thought that you loosen the lower lock nut, back it out, then screw the tightened upper collar, which turns the threaded body into or out of the lower mount?

CrashMW
 

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You are saying that to adjust the height, you have to remove the coilover from the lower control arm (hub)?
I thought that you loosen the lower lock nut, back it out, then screw the tightened upper collar, which turns the threaded body into or out of the lower mount?

CrashMW
The point is that you can't take someone elses measurements to use as your own. Just bolt it in, lower car, verify, jack up car, readjust, rinse/repeat till desired outcome.

No need to remove them from the knuckle when adjusting ride hight. Grab the threaded portion. I suggest work gloves and spin in the desired direction. With the locking collars loose it won't be a problem to adjust these without removing anything but the wheels.

Sent from another galaxy.
This.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
The point is that you can't take someone elses measurements to use as your own. Just bolt it in, lower car, verify, jack up car, readjust, rinse/repeat till desired outcome.



This.
Thanks guys. Again, I really appreciate the help... And I did caution early on that my questions might be on the ignorant side...
But I plan to do this myself, with maybe some help from freinds, but I want to have a game plan from the start.

Which brings me to my next question.
Drilling the top mount.
Can I do this in advance without removing the stock strut?
If I can, in order to make things go smoothly on install day, I would like to have the 3" holes in place, as well as the strut tower brace already installed.
I have the TB designs, but it seams you have to cut the lower shroud which means no more fresh air into the cabin. Does the mountune brace make a handling change you can feel like the TB Designs unit? I assume the mountune unit leaves the shelf in intact?

CrashMW
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You will need to remove the struts. As for the TB brace you can trim the lower cowl piece and make it fit. That's what I did and works great. I don't remember if I posted pictures in my build thread.

Sent from another galaxy.
Doesn't trimming still result in engine air being pulled into the car rather than fresh air?

CrashMW
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey Unfocused..
Any chance you have some images of the rear?
trying to figure out a few things.
For one, reuse the lower plastic seat or not? Looks like it could help with noise.
I have other questions, but too embarrassed to ask so I will search first...
 
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