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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I don't know if anyone else has experienced similar results, but has anyone had any bad experiences from an OCC? I installed mine and it didn't work out so well. Here is a list of the after effects...
-irratic idle (varied and would not settle down. Usually idled high)
-butt Dino perceived loss of power AND overall driveability. Something felt off...
-loss of fuel mileage
-and then the kicker...she threw a code P0507 Intake Air Circulation High (unmetered air, in the dealers words).
-CEL/code would not go away, even with a 30 min battery disconnect

I had an appointment at the dealer for some other stuff, so I decided to yank the OCC. within 4 miles of disconnecting the OCC, the CEL went out and the code cleared. Also, all the other bad symptoms have cleared and the car drives great. Just finished a road trip for the holiday with great driving car.

The OCC was installed and connected for just over 300 miles with all of these symptoms present the whole time.

The OCC was a very quality kit and I really have no idea how it could be installed wrong. It is a PVC type OCC. My only stretch at a guess as to what could cause this was the mounting location. It was a frame mount that didn't require the sound symposer to be removed. Makes me wonder if the distance from the intake to the can was the culprit of these symptoms??? The can was working as after 300 miles, there was a few ounces of oil in the can.

All I can say is that it was hooked up right.

Any thoughts? Any thoughts about my theory on the length of the hose/distance to the can?
 

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I'm going to give it about a 90% chance that you installed a check valve incorrectly, kinked a line when you put things back together, or left the drain open. A properly installed OCC setup changes nothing, all it does it catch crap that normally would go into your manifold. I do personally disagree with any setup the puts the can above the PCV system tapping points, but it wouldn't have any bearing on all the problems you describe. Understanding how your stock 2 way PCV system works before installing an OCC is a good idea. There are some pretty simple tests that can be done before you start and when you're done to confirm correct flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No kink or clogs in the line. Check valve installed in the correct direction as the valve came preassembled in the hose with factory type connection to hook up to the PCV hose and the intake, thus making it impossible to get it wrong. I checked the direction of flow of the check valve and it was correct. I'm pretty anal about details like that. Also note I drained some oil from the can at the end of the ~300 miles, thus another indication everything was hooked up properly.
 

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Your statements don't match your story. It's possible the unit may have been defective, true, but it is far more likely that you installed it incorrectly. There is a third possibility - that the manufacturer assembled it incorrectly. That there was only one way for you to orient the valve doesn't mean the valve was going the correct way.

In any case, the correct statement isn't that your car doesn't like OCCs, it's that it didn't like that one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't know what you mean by "my statements don't match my story"?? I've provided only facts in this thread. I guess it's possible to have a defective unit, but an OCC really doesn't have any moving parts minus the Check Valve option. I tested the Check Valve by blowing in the hose in the direction of vacuum; FROM the OCC TO the intake manifold. The Check Valve allowed air flow in this direction. Again, I would think it unlikely to have oil in the can if the Check Valve was installed wrong and thus completely preventing air flow in that direction.

So you think there's no validity in the distance to the can being an issue? Down on the frame under the air cleaner is a big difference from where most run them. And what about the code?

If length of hose/mounting location is irrelevant, then what...remove the Check Valve and hook it back up and try again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
How critical is the Check Valve? Since it's an option, can't be too vital. That worrie me from the start as when I blew through the hose in the opposite direction, it took much more effort that I was expecting to open that thing.

But since no one has commented on this, I'll repeat it again....the Check Valve does NOT seem to be a fault, nor the presence of vacuum, since there was a measuresble amount of oil in the can!
 

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All of the above OR....Something completely unrelated was corrected when the catch can was uninstalled. Distance from manifold has nothing to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
And I would also tend to think even IF the checkvalve was installed backwards posing some type of restriction, that wouldn't create a leak or kick that code, would you?
 

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And I would also tend to think even IF the checkvalve was installed backwards posing some type of restriction, that wouldn't create a leak or kick that code, would you?
It wouldn't create a leak unless the pressure build up in the crankcase, from not venting blew off a connection. I would definitely double check the valve is oriented correctly, even if it was installed by the factory. The crank not being able to relieve pressure is not a good thing.
 

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There's also the very remote possibility that your stock pcv valve is bad. That would have caused a disruption if you installed the OCC setup or not, but you may have made it worse by doing so. The stock valve is located in the block's pcv plate. The plate has a series of bolts around the perimeter of it and is easy to remove. Once it's off you can see the baffling system leading to the valve and what's going on there. I would take it off and verify the stock valve's functionality as well. As for the check valve, it's not vital just nice to ensure one way flow. I run without it and did so on my previous car which a pcv system that functioned exactly the same as this one. Keep in mind the top pcv port on your valve cover actually flows both ways sometimes while the bottom port on your crank only flows out into the intake manifold, that's the only place there should be a check valve. Actually your stock pcv valve is basically just that, a secondary check valve is just extra protection for higher boost levels. Did you remove the entire intake manifold when you did this install?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I did not remove the intake. The OCC kit came with factory type connections for the existing intake connection and the existing PVC hose end, which made installation easy and quick and simple. I would also (carefully) assume most of us on this thread are somewhat mechanically inclined gear heads and then you well know installing an OCC is rather simple, doesn't involve any complex parts or components, and there's not much that can be messed up on this installation. Thus my amazement at my results. I am going to try again though, but I am leaning towards removing the check valve if indeed distance from the intake is irrelevant as stated and not a culprit (recall mine is the lower mount; mounted down on the frame under the air filter. Hoses are 2-3 feet long in each direction).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Yes. I left that out intentionally as the product is great and I know my scenario is an odd experience; this thread was not to flame JBR. Plus Jamie has already commented. It's the lower mount can with the optional check valve. With the factory type connections, it's darn near impossible to screw up the install on this, which also further removes the likelihood of the optional checkvalve being installed backwards.

The only comment I had made to Jamie in a PM was that when blowing through the hose to test the checkvalve (to deal with my own attempt to ascertain the correct installation direction before the initial installation on the car), was the fact that the checkvalve was surprisingly difficult to blow air through to get it to open. Unlike a typical PCV valve that rattles around in either direction, this valve feels as if it's always closed and requires vacuum to open.

Knowing how things work somewhat, that's why I made the speculation (and only a speculation) as to if possible, the vacuum required to open the checkvalve combined with the total distance between the intake and the PVC valve (4'-5' of hose + the volume of the can) was the source of my symptoms. But then even that doesn't seem to explain the code it threw. ????
 

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I'm not going to openly rag on their kit as I've never seen their products. I do know that the strength of the lines is also critical. I used -10 lines on my OCC setup so I know they will not collapse under the pressure. Any collapse or restriction in the line would lead to issues you have as well. Always a possibility parts were switched by accident or your just got a bad check valve.
I would highly recommend pulling the intake manifold and having a good look at your pcv plate and stock pcv valve. The IM comes off in a few minutes, it's very simple. 5 bolts and a few connectors.

 
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