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Hey all, want to see if anyone has had this experience with their wilwood front brake kit. After install, I noticed the front brakes are dragging quite a bit. The car slows down while off the gas noticeably more, MPGs are suffering, and it actually feels like it's affecting acceleration. After I noticed that, I lifted the car again, and sure enough, the brakes are dragging quite a bit. They aren't seized or anything, so I'm curious if this will lessen as the brakes wear down a bit?

Anyone experience this with their kit? Otherwise, the brakes feel fantastic overall. I'm also worried that after some driving, the brakes might overheat themselves from how much they're dragging. And I've got a track event coming up in a week and don't want anything to happen on track either.

Let me know y'all's experience with this kit!
 

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Hey all, want to see if anyone has had this experience with their wilwood front brake kit. After install, I noticed the front brakes are dragging quite a bit. The car slows down while off the gas noticeably more, MPGs are suffering, and it actually feels like it's affecting acceleration. After I noticed that, I lifted the car again, and sure enough, the brakes are dragging quite a bit. They aren't seized or anything, so I'm curious if this will lessen as the brakes wear down a bit?

Anyone experience this with their kit? Otherwise, the brakes feel fantastic overall. I'm also worried that after some driving, the brakes might overheat themselves from how much they're dragging. And I've got a track event coming up in a week and don't want anything to happen on track either.

Let me know y'all's experience with this kit!
What Wilwoods are your running?

What pad material?

What rotors?

What brake fluid?

Was the kit new or used?

Are you running the anti squeal shims?

Did you grease the pad backers?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What Wilwoods are your running?

What pad material?

What rotors?

What brake fluid?

Was the kit new or used?

Are you running the anti squeal shims?

Did you grease the pad backers?
They are the 14" kit with slotted rotors. I think its just the one kit that wilwood has for this car. It's a 16 focus ST.

The pads and rotors are what came with the kit and everything was done per wilwoods instructions.

There were no anti squeal shims in the kit and they didn't say to grease the back of the pads, so I'm not sure if that should be done or not on this kit.

The kit is new and I'm running rbf600, with a full flush being done at the time of install.

I didn't get to do a good bed in on the pads, and I am getting quite a bit of squeal/howling noise when coming to a stop a slow speeds as well. Not sure if that's just because it's an aggressive semi-metallic pad or cause I didn't bed them in well. Or because of the dragging and have a bad mating between the pad and rotor.
 

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They are the 14" kit with slotted rotors. I think its just the one kit that wilwood has for this car. It's a 16 focus ST.

The pads and rotors are what came with the kit and everything was done per wilwoods instructions.

There were no anti squeal shims in the kit and they didn't say to grease the back of the pads, so I'm not sure if that should be done or not on this kit.

The kit is new and I'm running rbf600, with a full flush being done at the time of install.

I didn't get to do a good bed in on the pads, and I am getting quite a bit of squeal/howling noise when coming to a stop a slow speeds as well. Not sure if that's just because it's an aggressive semi-metallic pad or cause I didn't bed them in well. Or because of the dragging and have a bad mating between the pad and rotor.
Who did you buy the kit from?

Well, thereare several wilwood options for our cars. DP6, BNSL6, FNSL6, depending on your model year and goals, also volvo rotors, OEM rotors, and the sweet sweet two piece.

So you are running BP-10 pads most likely. The antisqueal shims, are stainless springy retaners that the pads run on, they preven pad chatter more than anything. They also prevent the pads from digging into the soft aluminum calipers.

Who fit the kit? It takes a bit of shimming to get it just right.

The pads fit tight in the stainless retainers/anti chatter/anti squeal chumpys. So most people ditch them and run the pads loose. Which causes pad chatter and caliper damage/wear, but helps with binding and pad dragging.

Yeah, running the pad backers dry is preferred.

Also, running race brakes is going to be noisier than the OEM, but man, they stop realll good, lol.

Theres a bit more maintenance with the wilwoods too. Really need to brushndown the pistons with pad changes, especially before compressing the pistons, to prevent seal damage.

Rebuilding them is quite straightforward, if it comes down to that.

I have ran two different Wilwood setups, and three different rotor sizes. All of them squealed from time to time, and with wear, lol. Both BP10 and BP20 pads for street. With shims, without, grease/no grease, bed in, no bed in, resurface rotors, new rotors, all the combinations.

Properly set up, they should not be dragging, they will be noisy though. That cannot be avoided. Its a welcome trade off for the amazing braking. The pads always seem to wear a bit uneven, but in huge deviations there is normally a sticking piston.

Do you have any pics? Pad centering on the rotors? Uneven pad wear?
 

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Also forgot to mention, the pads dont like being too worn down. I find that replacing the pads at 75 percent worn or earlier, seem to prevent excessive piston travel, which leads to the pistons getting a bit wonky in the bores, causing issues.

Race brakes, race maint, race problems, lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Who did you buy the kit from?

Well, thereare several wilwood options for our cars. DP6, BNSL6, FNSL6, depending on your model year and goals, also volvo rotors, OEM rotors, and the sweet sweet two piece.

So you are running BP-10 pads most likely. The antisqueal shims, are stainless springy retaners that the pads run on, they preven pad chatter more than anything. They also prevent the pads from digging into the soft aluminum calipers.

Who fit the kit? It takes a bit of shimming to get it just right.

The pads fit tight in the stainless retainers/anti chatter/anti squeal chumpys. So most people ditch them and run the pads loose. Which causes pad chatter and caliper damage/wear, but helps with binding and pad dragging.

Yeah, running the pad backers dry is preferred.

Also, running race brakes is going to be noisier than the OEM, but man, they stop realll good, lol.

Theres a bit more maintenance with the wilwoods too. Really need to brushndown the pistons with pad changes, especially before compressing the pistons, to prevent seal damage.

Rebuilding them is quite straightforward, if it comes down to that.

I have ran two different Wilwood setups, and three different rotor sizes. All of them squealed from time to time, and with wear, lol. Both BP10 and BP20 pads for street. With shims, without, grease/no grease, bed in, no bed in, resurface rotors, new rotors, all the combinations.

Properly set up, they should not be dragging, they will be noisy though. That cannot be avoided. Its a welcome trade off for the amazing braking. The pads always seem to wear a bit uneven, but in huge deviations there is normally a sticking piston.

Do you have any pics? Pad centering on the rotors? Uneven pad wear?
Thanks for the info so far man.

This is the part number that was ordered:

wil140-13019

It looks like it is the BP-10 pads, and yes, it's 2 piece rotors. And yes the braking is fantastic so far, I can't wait for the track day to really put them to the test.

I'm not too concerned about the noise, as I knew that would be the case, although I'm not sure if it is a bit excessive because it's noisy on every stop.

But anyway, the kit was ordered through Turn14, which is a large commercial supplier, which we use at my shop. Nice little discount ;) I installed them with one of my techs, and like I said, everything was done to the T according to instructions. The rotor was centered in the middle of the caliper on both sides and the pads are flush with the outer edge of the rotor.

As for the anti rattle shims, there were none included and I'm not sure if there are any for this type of caliper/pad? Could be wrong. Lol

I'm just concerned about the dragging. It definitely doesn't seem normal to me. But again, they aren't seized by any means.

I'll have to check pad wear, but it's only been a week since I've installed them. Ian probably get pics tomorrow, as I'm going to be doing oil change, alignment, pcv plate install and check on the brakes. All in the name of track prep.

Oh and I also did the Mazda 5 rear caliper brackets with larger rotors and xp10 rear pads. I'm happy with the setup so far, just need to figure out the dragging!
 

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Thanks for the info so far man.

This is the part number that was ordered:

wil140-13019

It looks like it is the BP-10 pads, and yes, it's 2 piece rotors. And yes the braking is fantastic so far, I can't wait for the track day to really put them to the test.

I'm not too concerned about the noise, as I knew that would be the case, although I'm not sure if it is a bit excessive because it's noisy on every stop.

But anyway, the kit was ordered through Turn14, which is a large commercial supplier, which we use at my shop. Nice little discount ;) I installed them with one of my techs, and like I said, everything was done to the T according to instructions. The rotor was centered in the middle of the caliper on both sides and the pads are flush with the outer edge of the rotor.

As for the anti rattle shims, there were none included and I'm not sure if there are any for this type of caliper/pad? Could be wrong. Lol

I'm just concerned about the dragging. It definitely doesn't seem normal to me. But again, they aren't seized by any means.

I'll have to check pad wear, but it's only been a week since I've installed them. Ian probably get pics tomorrow, as I'm going to be doing oil change, alignment, pcv plate install and check on the brakes. All in the name of track prep.

Oh and I also did the Mazda 5 rear caliper brackets with larger rotors and xp10 rear pads. I'm happy with the setup so far, just need to figure out the dragging!

Gotcha. I'D go and bed them in as per wilwoods instructions. See if that gets them to loosen up a bit.

I'd still like to see some wheel off pics, "top loaded" shots like you were pad swapping.

Normally the brakes are pretty quiet initially though, it's odd that they are noisy now. Being so fresh.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Gotcha. I'D go and bed them in as per wilwoods instructions. See if that gets them to loosen up a bit.

I'd still like to see some wheel off pics, "top loaded" shots like you were pad swapping.

Normally the brakes are pretty quiet initially though, it's odd that they are noisy now. Being so fresh.
I think I'll try to do the bed in tomorrow morning then before taking things apart. I think that could be part of the reason why I have so much noise and the dragging, but on the other hand, it could be something else. I'm just not sure if it's too late for them to bed in properly, though.

I'll get some pics tomorrow and post up here.

The brakes were noisy I think from day one. If not, then definitely by day two.

So the other thing I was dealing with was a sort of rotational knocking noise when I was braking, coming from the front wheels, after the BBK install. I have 18" konig hypergrams and I was thinking the calipers were making contact with the wheels. Ended up brake torquing on the lift to check for clearance when braking, and doing multiple test drives back and forth, which caused me to not do the bed in procedure properly. That really pissed me off. Lol

Long story short, swapped to my stock snowflakes and the noise went away. After a few days driving, swapped back to my konigs and the noise was still gone. The only thing I did differently was used my chrome lugs and torqued to 100ft-lbs instead of my aluminum lugs that get torqued to 87ft-lbs.
 

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Here's a couple pics of the front brakes.

The right side is wearing evenly side by side, but there's more wear on the bottom of the pads than the top. I assume that's because the larger piston is on the bottom.

The left side, however, appears to be wearing a bit unevenly side to side. Where one side is about 11.9mm at it's thickest and the other is 11.2mm. I'm not sure if I'm gonna be too concerned about this because I can retract the Pistons on both calipers pretty easily with my hands (with pads installed). So I don't think I'm dealing with a seized caliper/piston at all.

Looks like I was wrong, there are spring clips on the calipers. Maybe I should remove them and see what happens?
 

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Here's a couple pics of the front brakes.

The right side is wearing evenly side by side, but there's more wear on the bottom of the pads than the top. I assume that's because the larger piston is on the bottom.

The left side, however, appears to be wearing a bit unevenly side to side. Where one side is about 11.9mm at it's thickest and the other is 11.2mm. I'm not sure if I'm gonna be too concerned about this because I can retract the Pistons on both calipers pretty easily with my hands (with pads installed). So I don't think I'm dealing with a seized caliper/piston at all.

Looks like I was wrong, there are spring clips on the calipers. Maybe I should remove them and see what happens?
Thats what we normally do, but it does have the negatives as I mentioned. So weigh the pros/cons.
 

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Thats what we normally do, but it does have the negatives as I mentioned. So weigh the pros/cons.
I ended up removing the upper pad shims and leaving the lowers for now. I noticed the left wheel was hanging up a tad bit more, and saw a lot of contact between the left outer pad and the bridge that keeps them in place. When removing the shims on the top, it gave more clearance between the bridge and the pads. Not sure if that has an effect on it or not, but we'll see.

Thanks for the input man, I do appreciate it.
 

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Who did you buy the kit from?

Well, thereare several wilwood options for our cars. DP6, BNSL6, FNSL6, depending on your model year and goals, also volvo rotors, OEM rotors, and the sweet sweet two piece.

So you are running BP-10 pads most likely. The antisqueal shims, are stainless springy retaners that the pads run on, they preven pad chatter more than anything. They also prevent the pads from digging into the soft aluminum calipers.

Who fit the kit? It takes a bit of shimming to get it just right.

The pads fit tight in the stainless retainers/anti chatter/anti squeal chumpys. So most people ditch them and run the pads loose. Which causes pad chatter and caliper damage/wear, but helps with binding and pad dragging.

Yeah, running the pad backers dry is preferred.

Also, running race brakes is going to be noisier than the OEM, but man, they stop realll good, lol.

Theres a bit more maintenance with the wilwoods too. Really need to brushndown the pistons with pad changes, especially before compressing the pistons, to prevent seal damage.

Rebuilding them is quite straightforward, if it comes down to that.

I have ran two different Wilwood setups, and three different rotor sizes. All of them squealed from time to time, and with wear, lol. Both BP10 and BP20 pads for street. With shims, without, grease/no grease, bed in, no bed in, resurface rotors, new rotors, all the combinations.

Properly set up, they should not be dragging, they will be noisy though. That cannot be avoided. Its a welcome trade off for the amazing braking. The pads always seem to wear a bit uneven, but in huge deviations there is normally a sticking piston.

Do you have any pics? Pad centering on the rotors? Uneven pad wear?
you seem really educated onn this topic. Do you have any pointers of things to look for when buying used? I found a pair of wilwood front calipers,pads, rotors, and for the back only the calipers.
Who did you buy the kit from?

Well, thereare several wilwood options for our cars. DP6, BNSL6, FNSL6, depending on your model year and goals, also volvo rotors, OEM rotors, and the sweet sweet two piece.

So you are running BP-10 pads most likely. The antisqueal shims, are stainless springy retaners that the pads run on, they preven pad chatter more than anything. They also prevent the pads from digging into the soft aluminum calipers.

Who fit the kit? It takes a bit of shimming to get it just right.

The pads fit tight in the stainless retainers/anti chatter/anti squeal chumpys. So most people ditch them and run the pads loose. Which causes pad chatter and caliper damage/wear, but helps with binding and pad dragging.

Yeah, running the pad backers dry is preferred.

Also, running race brakes is going to be noisier than the OEM, but man, they stop realll good, lol.

Theres a bit more maintenance with the wilwoods too. Really need to brushndown the pistons with pad changes, especially before compressing the pistons, to prevent seal damage.

Rebuilding them is quite straightforward, if it comes down to that.

I have ran two different Wilwood setups, and three different rotor sizes. All of them squealed from time to time, and with wear, lol. Both BP10 and BP20 pads for street. With shims, without, grease/no grease, bed in, no bed in, resurface rotors, new rotors, all the combinations.

Properly set up, they should not be dragging, they will be noisy though. That cannot be avoided. Its a welcome trade off for the amazing braking. The pads always seem to wear a bit uneven, but in huge deviations there is normally a sticking piston.

Do you have any pics? Pad centering on the rotors? Uneven pad wear?
hwy you seem pretty knowledgeable on these brakes. I’m looking st purchasing a set used. Could you help me with what to look for ? I can pm you the model numbers
 

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you seem really educated onn this topic. Do you have any pointers of things to look for when buying used? I found a pair of wilwood front calipers,pads, rotors, and for the back only the calipers.

hwy you seem pretty knowledgeable on these brakes. I’m looking st purchasing a set used. Could you help me with what to look for ? I can pm you the model numbers
Youd want to visually inspect the pistons as best as you can, depending on the mileage, you may want to replace the seals. You really can't tell piston damage without the pistons pushed either mostly out of the bore, or completely out. During a seal job though, you'd see the whole story.

Try to wiggle each piston in its bore, it should be firm, and they should feel the same, comparing same pistons, the trailing pistons (larger ones) to the other trailing pistons only.

Check the area the pads ride for damage. Check all of the hardware. How many miles on them?

If you have pics, that be cool.

These are race calipers, they are meant to be rebuilt or replaced each race season. Thats with racing though. Daily driving with them just requires more cleaning, and inspections from time to time.

Buying used isnt the end of the world. Just maje sure everything is tip, top.

If you need Wilwood service parts. Todd at TCE is the man.

 

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Youd want to visually inspect the pistons as best as you can, depending on the mileage, you may want to replace the seals. You really can't tell piston damage without the pistons pushed either mostly out of the bore, or completely out. During a seal job though, you'd see the whole story.

Try to wiggle each piston in its bore, it should be firm, and they should feel the same, comparing same pistons, the trailing pistons (larger ones) to the other trailing pistons only.

Check the area the pads ride for damage. Check all of the hardware. How many miles on them?

If you have pics, that be cool.

These are race calipers, they are meant to be rebuilt or replaced each race season. Thats with racing though. Daily driving with them just requires more cleaning, and inspections from time to time.

Buying used isnt the end of the world. Just maje sure everything is tip, top.

If you need Wilwood service parts. Todd at TCE is the man.

Youd want to visually inspect the pistons as best as you can, depending on the mileage, you may want to replace the seals. You really can't tell piston damage without the pistons pushed either mostly out of the bore, or completely out. During a seal job though, you'd see the whole story.

Try to wiggle each piston in its bore, it should be firm, and they should feel the same, comparing same pistons, the trailing pistons (larger ones) to the other trailing pistons only.

Check the area the pads ride for damage. Check all of the hardware. How many miles on them?

If you have pics, that be cool.

These are race calipers, they are meant to be rebuilt or replaced each race season. Thats with racing though. Daily driving with them just requires more cleaning, and inspections from time to time.

Buying used isnt the end of the world. Just maje sure everything is tip, top.

If you need Wilwood service parts. Todd at TCE is the man.

374367
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Bro he’s only asking $300 lol. Price is DEFINITELY right imo. I want to get them but I don’t wanna get them if they’re gonna just be sitting. Yeah I feel you on the wear, but for the price I’d get them as a “project” and repaint them to my liking. Also my wheels are 18x9.5 +30 offset squared. Wonder if it will fit them or not? I still have my snowflakes but would prefer to stay away from going back to them lol.
 

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Well, if the price is right, roll the dice. Lol

There seems to be a lot of wear on the aluminum hats and the calipers, I wonder why. Mine are still looking great. Looks like someone wire wheeled them or something. Kinda gross.
Bro he’s only asking $300 lol. Price is DEFINITELY right imo. I want to get them but I don’t wanna get them if they’re gonna just be sitting. Yeah I feel you on the wear, but for the price I’d get them as a “project” and repaint them to my liking. Also my wheels are 18x9.5 +30 offset squared. Wonder if it will fit them or not? I still have my snowflakes but would prefer to stay away from going back to them lol.
 

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Bro he’s only asking $300 lol. Price is DEFINITELY right imo. I want to get them but I don’t wanna get them if they’re gonna just be sitting. Yeah I feel you on the wear, but for the price I’d get them as a “project” and repaint them to my liking. Also my wheels are 18x9.5 +30 offset squared. Wonder if it will fit them or not? I still have my snowflakes but would prefer to stay away from going back to them lol.
300 bucks? You should have bought them already.

I'd replace the seals, and clean everything up. You could always sell them for more than that, if they are legit.

Snowflakes clear them. 18x9.5 +30, thats a huge offset. That shouldnt even fit on the cat unless you are on stock suspension. I had to roll fenders for my 18x8.5 +33 with 255 MPSS and a bit lowered. Still would rub, lol.
 

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300 bucks? You should have bought them already.

I'd replace the seals, and clean everything up. You could always sell them for more than that, if they are legit.

Snowflakes clear them. 18x9.5 +30, thats a huge offset. That shouldnt even fit on the cat unless you are on stock suspension. I had to roll fenders for my 18x8.5 +33 with 255 MPSS and a bit lowered. Still would rub, lol.
You’re right huh, Yeah I’m gonna go check them out on the weekend he’s gonna let me have them for even cheaper 😭🙌🏻. Nah i wouldn’t sell them. I’d try my best to refurb to working condition and collect any missing components if needed to fit onto my car. Lmao “that shouldn’t even fit the car” 💀. Yeah they poke. And yes still stock suspension. I need to replace a corner for my BC coils, but they’d def rub. I dont mind selling the wheels to get something that Will fit the brakes. The car just feels a little “heavier” but the snowflakes and these wheels supposably weigh in at 25lbs. And the wheels were actually pretty light I was surprised
 

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