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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just wanted to start up a easy to read thread with info on how people setup their car for GS.

Please try and keep the below Format. There are not that many Mods that are street legal so it should be a pretty short list.

I just picked my 2014 up in November so with buying a set of winter wheels and tires a few months ago my budget for summer has been a bit depleted. My Current setup is as follows. Still have a couple months before the season starts here in chicago.

Wheels: Stock
Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 255/35 18
Pressures: 48-50 Front 38-40 Rear
Sway Bar: Rear Strano medium setting
Sway Bar End Links: Stock
Shocks/Struts: Stock 2014
Exhaust: resonator Delete.
Break Pads: Stock
Break Fluid: TBD
Oil: TBD
Other: Green Filter With Cap
 

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I'm always happy to share my setup :) I'll be updating this as my car changes...

Last change: 4/20/15

Wheels: 17" Sport Edition F10
Tires: Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec 255/40/17
Pressures: 1st run starting pressures 36F/30R
Sway Bar: Rear - Stranoparts, middle setting
Sway Bar End Links: Stock
Shocks/Struts: Stock 2014
Exhaust: Stock
Brake Pads: Stock
Brake Rotor: Stock Late 2014 Larger Front
Brake Fluid: Whatever came in it new
Oil: No preference
Other: K&N Filter
Alignment: Stock
 

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Here is my set-up, more development to come this year. I added a couple items to your list as well :)

YR/Model: 2013 ST1
Wheels: 17x8 OZ Ultraleggerra in white
Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 255/40-17
Pressures: 35-38F 30-32R
Sway Bar: Rear Stranoparts triple adjustable (absolute MUST have!)
Sway Bar End Links: Steeda adjustable
Shocks/Struts: Koni's with off the shelf valving
Exhaust: Magnaflow cat-back
Brake Pads: Stock
Brake Fluid: ATE
Oil: OE Ford Motorcraft synthetic blend
Air filter: Green Filter for the street, K&N for competition
Alignment: -1.1 camber & 1/8" total toe-out front, zero toe & OE camber rear
 

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ATE Super Blue brake fluid
Speed bleeders
Air Raid air filter

Nothing else. I have to race in the pro class, no need for any mods.
 

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Car is too new to really tell what set up will be for the season, but for now ;

YR/Model: 2015 ST1
Wheels: 17x8 Moda 18
Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 255/40-17
Pressures: 38-42F 32-34R Maybe, we'll see
Sway Bar: Rear Stranoparts
Sway Bar End Links: Steeda adjustable
Shocks/Struts:stock
Exhaust: ? stock for now
Brake Pads: Stock (for now)
Brake Fluid: Stock
Oil: for now whatever is in it now (only 500 miles on it) Possibly Royal Purple
Air filter: AEM
Alignment: as much camber as possible & 1/8" total toe-out front, zero toe & OE camber rear
 

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I autocrossed my Focus twice last year bone stock, still had the temp tags on it and i think i rolled 1,000 miles while racing lol.
I also only race at the local club level so i don't need the hottest set-up to be competitive. I was able to get 2nd fastest PAX time of the
day with a bone stock car with my girlfriend riding passenger the first time i ever autocrossed the car. Im excited to race it with the
small changes i have made.

YR/Model: 2014 ST2
Wheels: factory snowflakes
Tires: dunlop Z2's (non star spec) 245-45-18
Pressures: as low as i can get away with before i start rolling the sidewalls, haven't run the new tires yet.
Sway Bar: Steeda
Sway Bar End Links: Steeda adjustable
Shocks/Struts: stock
Exhaust: Magnaflow "custom" (deleted the resonator and muffler and put in a small magnaflow in place of the resonator)
Brake Pads: Hawk HP+
Brake Fluid: undecided
Oil: Penziol European blend 5w-40
Air filter: Green Filter for the street, stock for competition
Alignment: stock for now, may try Race2wins recipe
 

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SD National Tour Results: SCCA Solo National Tour and ProSolo Live Timing

Looks at the raw times for GS winner Mark Scroggs (aka Race2win) and then look at the times of all competitors in AS, BS, CS, DS, ES, FS, GS, HS to see why so many people try to set their cars up exactly like his.
Thanks Steve for the kind words :) Great meeting you this weekend!

Alignment...there is really only so much you can do with these cars, so unfortunately there isn't anything magical about my car. In fact, I have heard some people getting more negative camber than I have. All you can do to get camber is loosen all the top bolts and force the top of the strut "inwards" to take up the space in the bolt holes...so in other words, not much to gain ;) I run a little toe-out in the front to help the car turn-in, but I like a lively car so this may not work for everyone...especially in a car already so lively :) Toe-out also wears the tires much faster, so be careful if you drive it every day.

I haven't really done anything to the rear, toe was at "zero" from the factory, so I left it alone ;)
 

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YR/Model: 2014 ST1 in National Championship Blue
Wheels: 17x8 OZ Ultraleggerra in black - 1 of the sets I have is the exact set Mark used at Nationals last year so you know that's worth 2 tenths
Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 255/40-17, BFG Rival-S 255/40-17
Pressures: ?
Sway Bar: Rear ST sway bar
Sway Bar End Links: OEM w/Energy Suspension bushings
Shocks/Struts: Rear OTS Koni's
Exhaust: Buscher Cat-Back with custom muffler delete
Brake Pads: Hawk DTC-30 Front/OEM rear
Brake Fluid: StopTech STR600
Oil: OE Motorcraft synthetic blend with OE Motorcraft oil filter
Air filter: AEM Dryflow - It's super dusty where I live so oiled filters get grungy in a matter of weeks
Alignment: Whatever camber I can get. 0/0 F/R toe to start, most likely adding front toe
Misc: Aftermarket shift knob - Only because the rules allow it

I'll update once I get to install everything in a few weeks and see how little camber I can get. Really curious on how the exhaust is going to sound as a full cat-back straight pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just wanted to start up a easy to read thread with info on how people setup their car for GS.

Please try and keep the below Format. There are not that many Mods that are street legal so it should be a pretty short list.

I just picked my 2014 up in November so with buying a set of winter wheels and tires a few months ago my budget for summer has been a bit depleted. My Current setup is as follows. Still have a couple months before the season starts here in chicago.

Wheels: Stock
Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 255/35 18
Pressures:TBD
Sway Bar: Rear Strano
Sway Bar End Links: Stock
Shocks/Struts: Stock 2014
Exhaust: Stock
Break Pads: Stock
Break Fluid: TBD
Oil: TBD
Other: Green Filter With Cap

Well 255/35 18 RE-71R's are a no go on the stock ST wheels... I had 3 shops and an SCCA local try every trick they could to seat them. now it is decision time... get the 17 modas and the seemingly standard 255/40 17 or try and decide between the 245/40 or 255/40 18's... 255 add an extra 3lbs so if I stick with the stocks I think I will be doing 245/40.
 

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Nothing terribly exciting right now. RSB + endlinks just went on the car last weekend and haven't run with them yet. Not spending money on Konis until the stock struts die.

YR/Model: 2013 ST3 (no sunroof)
Wheels: 17x8 Moda MD18
Tires: Dunlop Direzza ZII StarSpec 245/40/17 (gambled on the shorter gearing due to short local courses)
Pressures: 37F/35R seems to be where the Z2* are happy
Sway Bar: Rear Stranoparts triple adjustable
Sway Bar End Links: Massive Adjustable Rear
Shocks/Struts: Stock
Exhaust: Stock
Brake Pads: Hawk HPS (sometimes HP+ on "track" based autocrosses)
Brake Fluid: ATE Superblue (I still have some!)
Oil: Mobil 1
Air filter: Green Filter (w/cap for events)
Alignment: Stock
 

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Nothing terribly exciting right now. RSB + endlinks just went on the car last weekend and haven't run with them yet. Not spending money on Konis until the stock struts die.

YR/Model: 2013 ST3 (no sunroof)
Wheels: 17x8 Moda MD18
Tires: Dunlop Direzza ZII StarSpec 245/40/17 (gambled on the shorter gearing due to short local courses)
Pressures: New tires, still calculating. Last event liked 42F/37R
Sway Bar: Rear Stranoparts triple adjustable
Sway Bar End Links: Massive Adjustable Rear
Shocks/Struts: Stock
Exhaust: Stock
Brake Pads: Hawk HPS (sometimes HP+ on "track" based autocrosses)
Brake Fluid: ATE Superblue (I still have some!)
Oil: Mobil 1
Air filter: Green Filter (w/cap for events)
Alignment: Stock

How do you like the HPS vs HP+ pads? I decided to go with the hps pads because i was scared the hp+ pads would take too long to come up to operating temp on the autocross and just be a terrible street pad... Do you notice any big difference in stopping power between the two and over stock pads? I was hesitant to buy pads when the car only had 10k Miles on it, but i have a late build 14 so i have the bigger rotors and less aggressive stock pad.


Also an Edit to my setup... Removed the Steeda RSB end links, i could not get them to stop making noise, i suspect it the flimsy hiem joint. Plus the threaded rod on the end links was no thicker than factory links witch have a nice sealed joint. I did however steal the red bushings from the steeda links and spaced them with some washers to fit on the ford links.. I like that set-up much better. First autocross in a few weeks, I cannot wait!
 

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How do you like the HPS vs HP+ pads? I decided to go with the hps pads because i was scared the hp+ pads would take too long to come up to operating temp on the autocross and just be a terrible street pad... Do you notice any big difference in stopping power between the two and over stock pads? I was hesitant to buy pads when the car only had 10k Miles on it, but i have a late build 14 so i have the bigger rotors and less aggressive stock pad.


Also an Edit to my setup... Removed the Steeda RSB end links, i could not get them to stop making noise, i suspect it the flimsy hiem joint. Plus the threaded rod on the end links was no thicker than factory links witch have a nice sealed joint. I did however steal the red bushings from the steeda links and spaced them with some washers to fit on the ford links.. I like that set-up much better. First autocross in a few weeks, I cannot wait!
As far as feel goes I prefer the HP+ - they have great initial bite and pedal feel and grab hard when they're up to temp. No problems when they're cold, stopped just fine when driving around town, though their reduced bite is noticeable when cold. HPS is softer on initial bite but is otherwise a decent street pad, good enough for autox and daily driving. I was daily driving on the HP+ for a while but I felt like a **** when I would come home late at night and they're squealing down the street every time I tapped the brakes; had to be annoying to my neighbors. So I ordered a set of HPS and they work fine and are for the most part much quieter. They still sometimes squeal a bit in stop/go traffic on cool mornings.
 

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YR/Model: 2014 ST1 in National Championship Blue
Wheels: 17x8 OZ Ultraleggerra in black - 1 of the sets I have is the exact set Mark used at Nationals last year so you know that's worth 2 tenths
Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 255/40-17, BFG Rival-S 255/40-17
Pressures: ?
Sway Bar: Rear ST sway bar
Sway Bar End Links: OEM w/Energy Suspension bushings
Shocks/Struts: Rear OTS Koni's
Exhaust: Buscher Cat-Back with custom muffler delete
Brake Pads: Hawk DTC-30 Front/OEM rear
Brake Fluid: StopTech STR600
Oil: OE Motorcraft synthetic blend with OE Motorcraft oil filter
Air filter: AEM Dryflow - It's super dusty where I live so oiled filters get grungy in a matter of weeks
Alignment: Whatever camber I can get. 0/0 F/R toe to start, most likely adding front toe
Misc: Aftermarket shift knob - Only because the rules allow it

I'll update once I get to install everything in a few weeks and see how little camber I can get. Really curious on how the exhaust is going to sound as a full cat-back straight pipe.

I forgot how nice it was to work on a new car that doesn't have everything rusted in place.

I'm actually shocked at how tight the rear bushings are glued onto the swaybar. From reading about it for two years I knew it was an issue but damn this is a bit ridiculous. So much so that we started to try and take them apart and the bushing were tearing. Talked to some Ford engineer friends and basically the "break away" glue never broke away as intended.

Didn't mess with the alignment for now as it was 0 toe front and rear. Will most likely start to add front toe out as I begin running the car.

Buscher cat-back with the muffler delete sounds wicked going through 2nd gear. Not nearly as loud as I thought it would be. On the other hand drone at highway speeds is insane. The good news is you can't even hear the sound symposer. Of all the turbo cars I've had this is the only one I actually put the muffler back on and even then I'm surprised at just how loud the drone is on the highway. The only driving the car see is once a week to events or when visiting friends so no big deal. If I was daily driving this I would consider another brand.

Bleeding the brakes was also surprising at how much air was in the system in all 4 corners. Talking to some engineering friends they weren't surprised at all as the factory puts in enough fluid to fill the system and chances of air being in the ABS unit is pretty high.

Unfortunately while driving from Detroit back to Chicago a semi decided to blow a tire and it was swerve and cause a big wreck or try and offset the hit. So the right front corner of the fasica and fog light were blown apart and the right side lower valance was ejected. Looked in the review to see it flying through the air and then get ran over by another semi. Could have been alot worse and looks like it was only plastic that was damaged hopefully. So may miss the first planned event in Milwaukee while its getting fixed.
 

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Wheels: Stock
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports in stock Size until my RS3's get in
Pressures: First event with PSS coming up
Sway Bar: Rear Steeda (swapping to a Stranos soon)
Sway Bar End Links: Stock
Shocks/Struts: Stock
Exhaust: Stock
Brake Pads: Stock
Brake Rotor: Stock
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF660
Oil: Pennzoil Ultra/Motocraft Blend
Other: Green Filter
Alignment: -1.1 camber in front/-1.5 rear, 1/8th Toe out in the rear/zero front
 

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I also took Mark's advice on tire pressure starting the season - just tires and smaller wheels for me.
YR/Model: 2014 ST3
Wheels: 17x8 Moda
Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R 255/40-17
Pressures: 38F 32R
Sway Bar: Stock - but I may get the Strano Rear bar this summer.

June 10 change:
Alignment done - 1/8 toe out front, and 1/16 toe in rear

June 15 change:
adjustable Strano bar installed
 

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so...apparently the camber is not adjustable on these cars....how are y'all able to adjust the camber? I'm needing to get it aligned, but all the shops are saying they can't adjust the camber.
 
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