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Referencing my recent post, if you are upgrading your turbo, get a catch can. I'm going to say it is absolutely necessary.
 

· The Mod with a Mouth
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Referencing my recent post, if you are upgrading your turbo, get a catch can. I'm going to say it is absolutely necessary.
TBH you should have one as a basic mod right off the lot.
 

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TBH you should have one as a basic mod right off the lot.
I'm going to go a little bit against the grain here.

A catch can (and air/oil separator) is a good idea to clean up the PCV system some but it is not as effective as you may believe. A lot of what gets trapped in the catch can is condensation (water) and a good amount of oil/water do still end up in the intake manifold.

However what I warn against is using a catch can as a band-aid to a lot of blowby. When there is a lot of blowby and oil coming out the PCV profusely into the intake, this is likely pointing to a problem with the motor. The most likely in this case are broken ringlands or worn rings.

The PCV system will not ooze oil even at 25-26psi of boost unless there is either a broken PCV valve or something else going on causing the blowby. So get a catch can as a nice to have but not as a necessity. And don't get it as a band aid :). Perform a leakdown or compression test if you get a lot of blowby especially if it starts happening all of a sudden.

Also, very importantly don't block the PCV system. Both the crankcase vent and the intake vent are necessary. If they are obstructed (we had a car with an inline filter on the intake PCV that blocked flow) you will get varying amounts of oil burning and blue out the tailpipe.
 

· The Mod with a Mouth
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I'm going to go a little bit against the grain here.

A catch can (and air/oil separator) is a good idea to clean up the PCV system some but it is not as effective as you may believe. A lot of what gets trapped in the catch can is condensation (water) and a good amount of oil/water do still end up in the intake manifold.

However what I warn against is using a catch can as a band-aid to a lot of blowby. When there is a lot of blowby and oil coming out the PCV profusely into the intake, this is likely pointing to a problem with the motor. The most likely in this case are broken ringlands or worn rings.

The PCV system will not ooze oil even at 25-26psi of boost unless there is either a broken PCV valve or something else going on causing the blowby. So get a catch can as a nice to have but not as a necessity. And don't get it as a band aid :). Perform a leakdown or compression test if you get a lot of blowby especially if it starts happening all of a sudden.

Also, very importantly don't block the PCV system. Both the crankcase vent and the intake vent are necessary. If they are obstructed (we had a car with an inline filter on the intake PCV that blocked flow) you will get varying amounts of oil burning and blue out the tailpipe.
well in regards to blow by I agree but we(and almost every other platform, car, truck, van) have shown time and time again that running a catch can does in fact help keep the intake tracts clean as well as the valves. That was the whole point to my post about a basic off the lot mod. Also i think you quoted the wrong person.
 

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I've seen plenty of very dirty intakes and valves with catch cans. What I haven't seen is a proper test showing on the same vehicle, same oil, same use quantifying just how much a catch can helps.

The best way to keep the valves clean is frequent oil changes with oils that don't break down easily under high temperatures. There are oils that are formulated for DI use.

A catch can is not a bad idea; it's level of effectiveness is a little overblown on the internet. On top of this our cars do have baffling inside the PCV box that helps air/oil separation from the factory.
 

· The Mod with a Mouth
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I've seen plenty of very dirty intakes and valves with catch cans. What I haven't seen is a proper test showing on the same vehicle, same oil, same use quantifying just how much a catch can helps.

The best way to keep the valves clean is frequent oil changes with oils that don't break down easily under high temperatures. There are oils that are formulated for DI use.

A catch can is not a bad idea; it's level of effectiveness is a little overblown on the internet. On top of this our cars do have baffling inside the PCV box that helps air/oil separation from the factory.
Fair enough. There isnt sufficient data and before-and-after to show how much it helps. However just after 4k miles I pulled the IM off during test fitting of the Kozmic can and oh boy was that alot of oil! We even found a pool after car sat for 2 days. Unfortunately I am one of the guilty that doesnt document well for the sake of the community. I would love to help support this idea other than simply suggesting people install one from the get go.
 

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And a good paying job hahah
 
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I'm going to go a little bit against the grain here.

A catch can (and air/oil separator) is a good idea to clean up the PCV system some but it is not as effective as you may believe. A lot of what gets trapped in the catch can is condensation (water) and a good amount of oil/water do still end up in the intake manifold.

However what I warn against is using a catch can as a band-aid to a lot of blowby. When there is a lot of blowby and oil coming out the PCV profusely into the intake, this is likely pointing to a problem with the motor. The most likely in this case are broken ringlands or worn rings.

The PCV system will not ooze oil even at 25-26psi of boost unless there is either a broken PCV valve or something else going on causing the blowby. So get a catch can as a nice to have but not as a necessity. And don't get it as a band aid :). Perform a leakdown or compression test if you get a lot of blowby especially if it starts happening all of a sudden.

Also, very importantly don't block the PCV system. Both the crankcase vent and the intake vent are necessary. If they are obstructed (we had a car with an inline filter on the intake PCV that blocked flow) you will get varying amounts of oil burning and blue out the tailpipe.

This is my car in a nutshell. Car started having a tonne of blow by. Turns out my piston rings were done.
 

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love that the last two post are both from guys with popped motors. I like to see guys like you and me who UNDERSTAND that pushing the limits is a big risk and are still willing to take it. W/O people like us there is no after market for pistons, rods, etc for these cars. Its a risk we all know going into it. Fifth I'm following your build and look forward to seeing it coming together.

I agree with the balls and a good job, you need to have both to play in this game.
 

· The Mod with a Mouth
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love that the last two post are both from guys with popped motors. I like to see guys like you and me who UNDERSTAND that pushing the limits is a big risk and are still willing to take it. W/O people like us there is no after market for pistons, rods, etc for these cars. Its a risk we all know going into it. Fifth I'm following your build and look forward to seeing it coming together.

I agree with the balls and a good job, you need to have both to play in this game.
Don't forget people have popped pistons in bolted cars as well. It's not looking like big turbos is doing this to the 2.0EB. It's looking like a completely different issue since the trend is a specific cylinder
 

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Don't forget people have popped pistons in bolted cars as well. It's not looking like big turbos is doing this to the 2.0EB. It's looking like a completely different issue since the trend is a specific cylinder
I totally understand that, just saying the potential is higher with higher output.

I will stick to running c100 for knock protection and cross my fingers.. haha
 

· The Mod with a Mouth
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I totally understand that, just saying the potential is higher with higher output.

I will stick to running c100 for knock protection and cross my fingers.. haha
Oh don't get me wrong, higher horsepower means more heat which doesn't help the already known problems. I'm wondering if going all aluminum, larger core radiator AND meth will help.

Trust me I'm hoping I can have long term success with the 3076r and a stock block
 

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Hi there,

Was hoping to get some clarification regarding this. I've noted the ATP GTX2867R comes with an internal wastegate. Does this mean the an external wastegate, like the CP-E exhale kit mentioned is not required? Is there much of a limiting factor between the two?

The reason I ask is because where I'm from, external wastegates are allowed, owing to either the noise they produce or because they VTA (if they're set up that way).
 

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Hi there,

Was hoping to get some clarification regarding this. I've noted the ATP GTX2867R comes with an internal wastegate. Does this mean the an external wastegate, like the CP-E exhale kit mentioned is not required? Is there much of a limiting factor between the two?

The reason I ask is because where I'm from, external wastegates are allowed, owing to either the noise they produce or because they VTA (if they're set up that way).


You're getting wastegate and blow-off valve mixed up. The GTX has an internal waste gate but will need an external blow-off valve. The waste gate controls the amount of boost sent to intake. The blow off valve vents pressure build-up when you let off the throttle. I'm not sure if you're trying to say VTA bovs are not allowed where you're at? If that's the case maybe this would work?TiAL QR Recirculating Blow-Off Valve
 

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The thing is, I don't know if a GTx waste gate would fit a GT. (3071r)
Oh yah forgot you were running that. I wouldn't see why not. It looks like the waste gate port is for Tial so it shouldn't matter.

GT3071R-WG Bolt-on Turbo for the 2.0L Ecoboost Focus ST Product Highlights:
- Stock Location, Direct Bolt-on
- Internally Wastegated
- Built-in external wastegate port (Tial MVS) for future expansion. Capoff provided
- V-band flanged turbo adapter
- Any stock turbo flanged downpipe will fit
- Any stock placement intake pipe will fit. Adapter elbow provided.
- Any stock placement charge pipe will fit
- New steel braided oil feed and coolant lines provided
- Fits stock oil drain tube

GTX2867R Bolt-on Turbo for the 2.0L Ecoboost Focus ST Product Highlights:
- Stock Location, Direct Bolt-on
- Internally Wastegated
- Built-in external wastegate port (Tial MVS) for future expansion. Capoff provided
- V-band flanged turbo adapter
- Any stock turbo flanged downpipe will fit
- Any stock placement intake pipe will fit. Adapter elbow provided.
- Any stock placement charge pipe will fit
- New steel braided oil feed and coolant lines provided
- Fits stock oil drain tube

I think this was the one DCRyan was running Tial MV-S

Here's his build if you want to look into the external waste gate. http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-builds/26977-ryans-2013-focus-st-turbo-swap-goods-aka-escalated-quickly.html
 

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You're getting wastegate and blow-off valve mixed up. The GTX has an internal waste gate but will need an external blow-off valve. The waste gate controls the amount of boost sent to intake. The blow off valve vents pressure build-up when you let off the throttle. I'm not sure if you're trying to say VTA bovs are not allowed where you're at? If that's the case maybe this would work?TiAL QR Recirculating Blow-Off Valve
Thanks for the info @frozen_blue

That's exactly what I'm after. I will check with CP-E to see if it fits their exhale kit, but you wouldn't happen to know if it fits the flange already there?
 
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