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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im still new to autocrossing a fwd setup. Im in GS class, Re71R tires and oem brakes, oem suspension. under firmer braking situations I notice the front end wanting to pull sort of like a torque steer effect. Just wondering, short of a front lsd, what has been effective in reducing this effect for you folks that autocross? Thanks.
 

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I was a huge fan of trail braking. After going to the Starting Line school, I'm not as much any more.

Start doing all of your braking in as straight of a line as possible where possible. For me with the amount of control inputs that are required, I learned to just accept that there is going to be some pulling and tugging of the wheel with the car wanting to go in a particular direction and adapted accordingly. Some of the places we as autocrossers have to frequent to be able to autocross we won't be getting the best of surfaces to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I still have to remind myself this isnt an awd car.lol. Last car was an evo 8. ACD race flash, Upgraded TRE rear 1.5 way diff., and a laundry list of upgraded suspension parts. It was very balanced setup, and you just point the car where you want it to go. it compensated alot for driver mistakes, lol.
 

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I've never notice odd braking behavior on mine (stock brakes). Have you driven any other FoSTs to compare? Is ABS active when you feel the pulling?
 

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I've never notice odd braking behavior on mine (stock brakes). Have you driven any other FoSTs to compare? Is ABS active when you feel the pulling?
Same here with stock pads or Hawk 30s.


What is being describe sounds like you are stomping on the brakes and/or releasing too quickly and unsettling the car. In autocross situations as the car is always moving around any sudden inputs can really unsettle the car. Focus on really being smooth with all inputs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Same here with stock pads or Hawk 30s.


What is being describe sounds like you are stomping on the brakes and/or releasing too quickly and unsettling the car. In autocross situations as the car is always moving around any sudden inputs can really unsettle the car. Focus on really being smooth with all inputs.
That could very well be a factor. Its not any mechanical malfunction going on. I think that some of it may be the initial grab that the oem brakes have. Best way to describe it is like an excess vacuum assist causing really grabby initial bite which can be tricky to modulate. Any of you folks notice this? Is this just an oem pad feature, or is it just an inherent design with fost braking system? Here is a video at my last autcross.
in this run, at the end of the slalom at about 29 seconds Im braking into a tight left hander. Thats where the steering sort of pulls/jerks a bit. likely just because of fwd and imperfect surface conditions. but thats just something I wanted to find out how everyone else deals with it.
 

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The lighting in the video makes it hard for me to tell exactly what's going on with the car, but I suspect you are correct that the surface conditions are causing the pull. One of the two front wheels likely has more grip under braking due to the surface wetness and you're feeling the ABS brake one wheel more than the other.

If you feel the same pull when braking straight on a smooth, dry surface, then I'd be apt to take a look at the brakes on each side and see if there's any obvious problem.
 

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Yes the OEM pads are designed to have high initial bite leading to that grabby feeling. It gives the impression of a more aggressive (performance type) braking system without the added cost of big brakes for production. BMW has been doing this for years as it's a bit of smoke and mirrors effect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Just wanted to post an update. Im finally getting used to the fwd dynamics and the st a bit more. No more issues with the front end. It is just getting used to fwd I guess. BTW, the Strano rear bar is so much better than the oem piece. :D
 

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I didn't notice anything with mine in that regard, unless you are unsettled in your braking zone.

And watching your video reaffirms how crap our sites are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I didn't notice anything with mine in that regard, unless you are unsettled in your braking zone.

And watching your video reaffirms how crap our sites are.
Ya, Seriously. The conditions of the lot they run at are pretty bad.
 

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Yeah my car has 70k plus miles on it, upgraded front rotors, and i'm not 100 sure what kind of pads, but they are more towards a race composition because they squeal when they are cold or i'm not standing on top of the breaks, but so far i haven't noticed my car picking a direction other than the one i want it to go in when breaking hard into a corner. I can give you a bit of advice though, on my 02 mustang GT before i knew what i was doing i didn't properly vet the front breaks after replacing the rotors and pads and one didn't set right, so a hard break into a left turn would yank my front end in the wrong direction and if i lost any traction in the rear it would make me spin out. If you can id bust out some calipers and measure the pads make sure they are pretty close to the same thickness, and make sure both surfaces look about the same, you can usually spot if one side is wearing wrong...that will cause a similar reaction but on a fwd car it wont be as out of control as a rwd car.
 

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@DanM hey how long have you been running the willwood setup, I hear horror stories about drilled rotors cracking where the holes are. I though that would have been a bad decision on there part, but they make some of the best break systems on the market so idk maybe its all about placement.
 

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@DanM hey how long have you been running the willwood setup, I hear horror stories about drilled rotors cracking where the holes are. I though that would have been a bad decision on there part, but they make some of the best break systems on the market so idk maybe its all about placement.
Nothing wrong with drilled rotors when done right.. Brembo does it also.

As for braking stability.. I'd look at an alignment with that many miles..

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

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Nothing wrong with drilled rotors when done right.. Brembo does it also.

As for braking stability.. I'd look at an alignment with that many miles..

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Oh i've gone through 3 other mustangs since the GT lol, and now all i have is the ST and my vw passat so no issues atm :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
@DanM hey how long have you been running the willwood setup, I hear horror stories about drilled rotors cracking where the holes are. I though that would have been a bad decision on there part, but they make some of the best break systems on the market so idk maybe its all about placement.
that pic was turboboost12004 setup not mine.
 
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