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Flushed coolant system with distilled water and added ~4/5 gallon of the new Motorcraft yellow coolant.

Ford calls it “yellow” but to me it comes out if the jug neon green and looks lime green in the reservoir.

I also installed the Mountune triple pass radiator - hence what drove all of the coolant mumbo jumbo.

My temps run 189-190 cruising at 60mph. I was a knucklehead and didn’t check what they were with the OE radiator.

I honestly don’t expect any cooling benefit for normal daily driving - just when/if I ever track it.
That's about the temps I ran on the factory radiator on my 3000 mile road trip last month cruising at 70+. It was a bit cooler ambient temp last month though.
 

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2018 ST1 Magnetic Gray
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That temp is regulated by the thermostat. Under normal circumstances it will be the same with any radiator. A higher performance radiator will keep the temp stable in that range under engine high output or hot weather operation.
 

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2018 ST1, Monster Adapt-X e30, CVF fmic, Woosh rmm
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That temp is regulated by the thermostat. Under normal circumstances it will be the same with any radiator. A higher performance radiator will keep the temp stable in that range under engine high output or hot weather operation.

BuT you GoTtA Get ThAt lOw TeMp StaT MaN
 

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2018 Ford Focus ST1 with a 2867 gen 2
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Took a datalog with the new DP installed on the way home and picked up about 2 psi of peak boost on the 2867... Hit 29.29, but it went down to 25.13 at 6600 rpm.

I'm going to have him back it down a bit as that's just a touch higher than I'd like.. lol
 

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2016 ST2, Shadow Black, E30, MonsterFMIC, GFB DVX+ BPV, ALEX' ShiftBushings, PCV-OCC, Innovative RMM
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Did you test it? The E content, that is.
Nope, it doesn't vary as much seasonally here and I'm out of town unexpectedly. I use 80% now in summer.

I've also not maxed out the tune.

The last Sheetz I planned to stop at had all pumps offline for the annual state inspection when I stopped. 🙁
 

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Picked up a screw in the rear left tire last Friday but didn't know it until Monday morning when I was off to work and the TPMS tripped. Topped it up on the way in and it held until yesterday. Stopped at OK Tire, they popped it off, plugged it and put it back on in 25 minutes. Unfortunately their tech chipped a bit of paint on the rim, so they did the repair gratis and ordered some touch up paint. They'll fix it when it comes in. I was about to lose it when the manager told me but they made good on it, and **** happens.
 

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2016 Kona Blue ST3
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A higher performance radiator will keep the temp stable in that range under engine high output or hot weather operation.
Ehhh, ambient temps were in the 90s this past weekend at the track and even with the Mountune radiator I was hitting limp mode for coolant temps after about 2 full-effort laps. It cools off quickly on the cool down laps but in my experience so far, it heats up just as quick as the stock unit. I've seen others with similar experiences. It seems to me like evacuating the heat is more critical on this platform than enhancing the capacity of the cooling system.
 

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2018 ST1, Monster Adapt-X e30, CVF fmic, Woosh rmm
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Inline Heat exchanger will help w that.

Also wonder if that second fan doesn't kick on until you turn ac on like many gm cars. If so, could tap into that line and add a one way diode for a switch
 

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2014 ST3. Garrett GTX2860R Gen 2. FBO
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.

Also wonder if that second fan doesn't kick on until you turn ac on like many gm cars. If so, could tap into that line and add a one way diode for a switch
I remember reading fan criteria for an older ford I was diagnosing. On that vehicle they showed fan operation suspended above 55mph because the fan actually becomes a restriction above those speeds.

I'm sure there is a certain threshold for this with every car. So I would advise caution on doing something like this.
 
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2018 ST1, Monster Adapt-X e30, CVF fmic, Woosh rmm
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I remember reading fan criteria for an older ford I was diagnosing. On that vehicle they showed fan operation suspended above 55mph because the fan actually becomes a restriction above those speeds.

I'm sure there is a certain threshold for this with every car. So I would advise caution on doing something like this.
makes sense. I wonder what kind of pressure our coolant systems are seeing, keeping steam pockets out is paramount to efficient cooling. On the race cars we were seeing 12-15 psi. Also always vacuum evacuated the system when flushing. easy to trap air and near impossible to get it all out with the car level.
 

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Ehhh, ambient temps were in the 90s this past weekend at the track and even with the Mountune radiator I was hitting limp mode for coolant temps after about 2 full-effort laps. It cools off quickly on the cool down laps but in my experience so far, it heats up just as quick as the stock unit. I've seen others with similar experiences. It seems to me like evacuating the heat is more critical on this platform than enhancing the capacity of the cooling system.
I haven't installed my Mountune radiator yet. Currently using the OEM, the track I use on South Texas. is usually right over 100 degrees. I'm using the Powermax with Wagner Tuning FMIC and oil cooler. On the 20 minutes for each of the 3 sessions I never get on limp mode. Pedal to the metal. I seal all around the radiator and FMIC so the air flow has to go through, not around it.
 

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Swapped wheels for the AutoX tommorow.
I guess we can tell that I like a certain style...
Tire Wheel Vehicle Land vehicle Car


Also checked out a local guy's FoST that he had a concern about.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Tire

How do you even drag that? His car is kinda messed up.....
Chasing a wastegate sticking issue currently.
 
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