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With a new set of pretty questionable coilovers, and following the 'incident' that occurred during test & tune where BOTH front adjustment knobs fell out (I red threadlocked everything, except the one that came attached from the manufacturer... DOH!); Had to fab up some new adjuster rods, which was easy, but I had to removed the lower mount from the coilover to get to the dang thing. Cost me an hour, not too bad.

I added 1/2" raise to the fronts & stiffened them up a bit. More Test & Tune, wheee! Much better, but the valving is pretty off with the spring rates (says the butt dyno). Really wishing I got the 2-ways like I originally ordered 😕
 
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Finished up my ethanal content setup:



Went with an arduino nano with bluetooth setup. I have it spliced inline with my aux fuel, mounted to the side of the battery box.

Mockup to test everything first and pouring some alcohol through:

All wired up and plumbed, thanks to @SSgtjrobertson for the pin out on the symposer; using it for switched power

Next step is figuring out where/how I want to mount it. If I want it visible or stashed away somewhere.

For anyone interested, this is the cost breakdown:

Doesn't include things I already owned like solder, water proof heat shrink, tesa tape etc. I installed mine inline with my aux fuel, so I didn't need to buy any additional fuel lines or other fuel connectors.

It took about 3 miles for the sensor to pick up a change after refueling and probably 5 miles (with some boosting in there 😎) for the sensor to lock in on the actual percentage.
 

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Finished up my ethanal content setup:



Went with an arduino nano with bluetooth setup. I have it spliced inline with my aux fuel, mounted to the side of the battery box.

Mockup to test everything first and pouring some alcohol through:

All wired up and plumbed, thanks to @SSgtjrobertson for the pin out on the symposer; using it for switched power

Next step is figuring out where/how I want to mount it. If I want it visible or stashed away somewhere.

For anyone interested, this is the cost breakdown:

Doesn't include things I already owned like solder, water proof heat shrink, tesa tape etc. I installed mine inline with my aux fuel, so I didn't need to buy any additional fuel lines or other fuel connectors.

It took about 3 miles for the sensor to pick up a change after refueling and probably 5 miles (with some boosting in there 😎) for the sensor to lock in on the actual percentage.
Its about time, geez.
 
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Rollers!
DSC00561.jpg


DSC00523.jpg


Also did a 40 roll with that FBO tuned FiST.
he was pulling away very slowly till midway 4th gear then I started to catch up. No more than a carlength behind tho. ( I blame that on a bad 2 to 3 shift starting out on my part)
 

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Installed the Steeda clutch-assist spring tonight.
Wasn't as bad as I was expecting. I did have a mini-vice though. And, pro-tip: use a punch to tap it apart. I started by trying to grip one end with pliers, dual-weilding even--that was a terrible, made no progress. Then I found a video of a guy who used a hammer and hole punch. 4lb mini-sledge and 1 tap-DONE. Why are people using zip ties and their hands and wrestling with this? Granted, if you don't have a vice or some way to simply hold the part it may be different, but I'd sooner use a couple pieces of wood some how and make this hammer and hole punch method work versus fighting with it any other way.

Anyway, subtle change, but I can feel the engagement/bite point on the clutch better. More time will likely lead to feeling the difference further, especially in stop-n-go.

So, the required pic(s) after work completed were taken. :)

391041
 

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Had some extra wrap left over decided to go ahead wrap the gas tank cover just for the hell of it. I do wanna wrap the hood in carbon fiber but that’s a bigger task I didn’t have enough wrap for. Shadow black and some carbon fiber?
391122
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Fiddled around with my GFB DV+ and can't seem too tell a difference. I am happy that it is quiet and not looking for extra noise so, yeah. Also installed a gas pedal spacer I go from the inter webs, not a game changer haha. And lastly, fixed my own **** up on my res delete (rear clamp hitting crossmember). All in all a semi productive evening.
 

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Fiddled around with my GFB DV+ and can't seem too tell a difference. I am happy that it is quiet and not looking for extra noise so, yeah. Also installed a gas pedal spacer I go from the inter webs, not a game changer haha. And lastly, fixed my own **** up on my res delete (rear clamp hitting crossmember). All in all a semi productive evening.
When I installed my MRT Res Delete I noticed right away that those bolts were too long and going to hit that cross member, I rotated them up and to the side since I didn't want to have to get under it again. lol Did you have the same RD kit?
 
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When I installed my MRT Res Delete I noticed right away that those bolts were too long and going to hit that cross member, I rotated them up and to the side since I didn't want to have to get under it again. lol Did you have the same RD kit?
Yeah man, I was hopeful it was good. I ended up moving the rear clamp and tightening it by hand (i.e no impact). All nice and quiet now. A cat back isn't too far down the road so I am not too concerned.
 

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AP Installed. Found it odd that it recognized my car as a 2016.. My cars sticker indicates 8/2015, does that make it a "2016 model year"? It was sold as and VIN check reads as "2015".
Stage0 flashed.
IMG_20210430_192335.jpg

I wasn't able to get Launch control to work with tonights test drive. Maybe it requires Stage 1??
However, I definitely had the 'max rpm' throttle cut working when I was playing around with the "Driving RPM" adjustment. Set it to 4500 RPM and it def worked.
I haven't figured out how to change my shift light RPM--I'd like to lower it to ~5600 for stock.
Oh, and OAR learn did not change at all, stuck at 0.0; including min/max.

Compression test and colder plugs tomorrow?

Monster Tune soon? -- Waiting for confirmation that I can run their tune on a stock IC, until I get the Depo installed in a few weeks. Then KAM reset and go mad? :)
 

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AP Installed. Found it odd that it recognized my car as a 2016.. My cars sticker indicates 8/2015, does that make it a "2016 model year"? It was sold as and VIN check reads as "2015".
Stage0 flashed.
View attachment 391124

I wasn't able to get Launch control to work with tonights test drive. Maybe it requires Stage 1??
However, I definitely had the 'max rpm' throttle cut working when I was playing around with the "Driving RPM" adjustment. Set it to 4500 RPM and it def worked.
I haven't figured out how to change my shift light RPM--I'd like to lower it to ~5600 for stock.
Oh, and OAR learn did not change at all, stuck at 0.0; including min/max.

Compression test and colder plugs tomorrow?

Monster Tune soon? -- Waiting for confirmation that I can run their tune on a stock IC, until I get the Depo installed in a few weeks. Then KAM reset and go mad? :)
Automakers shut down all of July, retool for the new model changes and begin making the next model year in August. With the Monster tune you can run with the factory intercooler, but, you would re-flash the tune after installing the new one, not a KAM reset. It essentially resets the KAM when you re-flash the tune and also re-starts the learning process for your modifications.
 

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Automakers shut down all of July, retool for the new model changes and begin making the next model year in August. With the Monster tune you can run with the factory intercooler, but, you would re-flash the tune after installing the new one, not a KAM reset. It essentially resets the KAM when you re-flash the tune and also re-starts the learning process for your modifications.
Do you know when the started building the post facelift? <june 14 car, was hoping it was one of the last prefaces, in the middle though.
 

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AP Installed. Found it odd that it recognized my car as a 2016.. My cars sticker indicates 8/2015, does that make it a "2016 model year"? It was sold as and VIN check reads as "2015".
Stage0 flashed.
View attachment 391124

I wasn't able to get Launch control to work with tonights test drive. Maybe it requires Stage 1??
However, I definitely had the 'max rpm' throttle cut working when I was playing around with the "Driving RPM" adjustment. Set it to 4500 RPM and it def worked.
I haven't figured out how to change my shift light RPM--I'd like to lower it to ~5600 for stock.
Oh, and OAR learn did not change at all, stuck at 0.0; including min/max.

Compression test and colder plugs tomorrow?

Monster Tune soon? -- Waiting for confirmation that I can run their tune on a stock IC, until I get the Depo installed in a few weeks. Then KAM reset and go mad? :)
The OAR on mine didn't start showing anything until I flashed a Cobb OTS tune. Not sure about the shift light without a tune, on mine, I go to settings at the top of the screen where the gauges are and there is an option for the shift light adjustment. Mine is just like this:
 

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The OAR on mine didn't start showing anything until I flashed a Cobb OTS tune. Not sure about the shift light without a tune, on mine, I go to settings at the top of the screen where the gauges are and there is an option for the shift light adjustment. Mine is just like this:
Thanks! I found the cobb manual last night and read through some of it; found the section on shift lights and other setup for the gauge screen. I want to try the 4 gauge running afr and boost on a larger, bar-style gauge, maybe changing to it after car warms up (I like watching oil temp during warm up)--I've always stayed out of >1 second WOT pulls, or completely out of WOT until the gauge on dash reads > 1/4, but having a real number is easier to interpret.

Also pretty sure that I read the LC feature (and likely FFS) require one of the 'Performance' tunes -- aka Stage 1 or greater, and not the Eco or Stage0/Stock. (Not that I need to be using LC on my All seasons..but really just want to hear what the car sounds like.. >< I had a guy revving at me at a light the other night and wanted to rev back. haha I know, dumb..) So I'll be trying 87 oct Stage 1 after I change plugs. I run 91, but I'd rather be very conservative with Cobb's OTS tunes from all I've read on OTS maps in the past..I hope to have a custom tune soon anyway. I'll be monitoring Ign. Correction Cyl. 1 as well as OAR too.


Question for anyone running the Cobb A-pillar mount: should it fit close/tight to the a pillar, or do you have a gap? I have the one end hooked over the top, and the other sitting just against the body weather strip, I just installed this new weather strip and didn't want to mangle it, but should it go over or under the strip some?? I'll try to do a bit more digging and find pics/videos, but figured I'd ask quick.
 
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Automakers shut down all of July, retool for the new model changes and begin making the next model year in August. With the Monster tune you can run with the factory intercooler, but, you would re-flash the tune after installing the new one, not a KAM reset. It essentially resets the KAM when you re-flash the tune and also re-starts the learning process for your modifications.
Thank you for the info! After re-reading some of MonsterTuned's threads I saw one mention 'stock IC' being viable, and placed the order after I saw that. It doesn't explicitly indicate that on their website/order page, but can be interpreted that way I suppose. Ty for confirming, and for explaining KAM vs re-flash.

It was a bit more expensive, and no TC--but I've also seen the explanation on that reason and for reliability/longevity I'll control my foot instead...maybe.. ;)
But the whole 'adaptive' closed-loop tuning capability really intrigued me versus others offerings--especially for a daily thats going to be mostly stock on 91.
They even mentioned (well, I asked) that adding a couple gallons of e85 to a tank of 91 wouldn't hurt either. I don't want a full E30 tune as I would have to make a special trip to fuel up every time, but for a weekend Hoon-about, I could add a little E.
 
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