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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will I be ok? Has anyone here installed it without thread locker? That install kinda sucked and would really like to avoid having to do it again. Especially that downpipe bracket....bro my god, I feel like it made me age by a few years just trying to get it back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok cool good to know. For what its worth, I did notice some red thread lock on the mount bolts when I took them off the factory mount...
 

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It gets easier every time you remove that piece; took me a couple hours the first time, about 45 minutes the second. It should be fine; I check all of my bolt ons torque every oil change just to be sure.
 

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It gets easier every time you remove that piece; took me a couple hours the first time, about 45 minutes the second. It should be fine; I check all of my bolt ons torque every oil change just to be sure.
Seriously, a couple of hours just to get the downpipe bracket back on?! Makes me not even want to try and tackle that one myself.
 

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Seriously, a couple of hours just to get the downpipe bracket back on?! Makes me not even want to try and tackle that one myself.
The bracket is a bit tricky. You have to put it back on at an angle. It's not that bad after you've done it once or have a downpipe that uses bolts instead of studs.

Sent from another garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Seriously, a couple of hours just to get the downpipe bracket back on?! Makes me not even want to try and tackle that one myself.
yeah that thing was a btch, probably took me close to an hour to get back on. but boy was it worth it!
 

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The thread locker in this type of application is an extra precaution to prevent the bolt from backing out if the clampload is insufficient to maintain the friction grip of the joint.

If you tightened the bolt properly, an appropriate amount of clamping force was most likely established to prevent the joint from slipping. The elasticity of the bolt will maintain the integrity of the joint during loading.

I would recommend that you check the residual torque of the bolt after you have driven it around for a while with some hard 1-2 shifts in there.

To check the residual torque, try to re-tighten the bolt to the specified torque. If the bolt does not turn, you are good. If the bolt does rotate, then you have lost clampload.

I would imagine that if this joint was slipping you would feel it on hard shifts.
 

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Seriously, a couple of hours just to get the downpipe bracket back on?! Makes me not even want to try and tackle that one myself.
A couple hours from putting the car on ramps to driving it off, down to 45 minutes the next time. The downpipe bracket is a bit tricky, but I'm a fast learner for an old guy.
 

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A couple hours from putting the car on ramps to driving it off, down to 45 minutes the next time. The downpipe bracket is a bit tricky, but I'm a fast learner for an old guy.
What are the torque specs for the downpipe bracket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What are the torque specs for the downpipe bracket?
I followed the german method on those, the actual bolts that bolt the rmm to the engine are 85lbs.
 

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I followed the german method on those, the actual bolts that bolt the rmm to the engine are 85lbs.
Funny, being that I'm part German you'd think I'd know what the German method meant. I'm going to guess it's something like "Geudentight"? :big smile:
 

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Funny, being that I'm part German you'd think I'd know what the German method meant. I'm going to guess it's something like "Geudentight"? :big smile:
That's the spec I used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Funny, being that I'm part German you'd think I'd know what the German method meant. I'm going to guess it's something like "Geudentight"? :big smile:
you got it!
 
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