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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, new to the group so go easy🤣
Bought my st3 eco boost back in January. Just recently had a rattle noise on deceleration which was pinpointed as the waste gate. I did have a private warranty on the car but they refused to fix as it’s a worn part.
My mechanics had a go at tightening the waste gate today which has fixed the rattle noise completely…….. but I have literally no boost.
Any ideas? Or can point me in the right direction please would be much appreciated. I’ve seen a suggestion on a thread that it might need to be retuned.
It’s a 2016 stealth grey 2.0T mp275 with 61k.
Cheers guys
 

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2018 Ford Focus ST1 with a 2867 gen 2
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You sure he tightened it and didn't actually go the wrong way with it and loosen it too much?
 

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Hi everyone, new to the group so go easy🤣
Bought my st3 eco boost back in January. Just recently had a rattle noise on deceleration which was pinpointed as the waste gate. I did have a private warranty on the car but they refused to fix as it’s a worn part.
My mechanics had a go at tightening the waste gate today which has fixed the rattle noise completely…….. but I have literally no boost.
Any ideas? Or can point me in the right direction please would be much appreciated. I’ve seen a suggestion on a thread that it might need to be retuned.
It’s a 2016 stealth grey 2.0T mp275 with 61k.
Cheers guys
What @rob99rt said and also you will need to have the tune adjusted to compensate for the additional pressure on the WGA.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You sure he tightened it and didn't actually go the wrong way with it and loosen it too much?
I’ve used my mechanic for 10-12 years and he does know his stuff…….but never say never.
I’ve not spoke with him as yet had to make school run etc so literally picked up the car and drove for around 30-40 mins.

I’ll have a chat with him tomorrow and let him know the issue.

Thanks for the swift reply
 

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Thanks for the info mate.
The death rattle will only be temporarily stopped by the WGA adjustment. Start looking for either a low mileage replacement, new, or bigger turbocharger.

A P0299 is inevitable at this point.
 
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I’ve used my mechanic for 10-12 years and he does know his stuff…….but never say never.
I’ve not spoke with him as yet had to make school run etc so literally picked up the car and drove for around 30-40 mins.

I’ll have a chat with him tomorrow and let him know the issue.

Thanks for the swift reply
I just remember when I tightened mine up I had to double check I was doing it the right way. It's not THAT apparent you're going the correct way on it.

Like SSgtjrobertson said, though, you'll need another low-mileage K03, or better yet, go big turbo at this opportune time. Grab an ATP 2860 or 2867 gen 2, a MichaelST/Junits head-to-turbo elbow to get rid of the lousy ATP elbow, a better intercooler if you don't have one, and a 3" catted DP, and you'll be in business. :)

If I'd have realized going BT would have been so much fun and at the same time making the car more drivable (and get better mileage), I'd have done that as soon as I got the intercooler installed instead of waiting and trying to wring everything I could out of the K03. That thing just sucks....
 
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Sorry if I’m sounding daft…..but if he had loosened it would the waste gate make more noise that it was to start with?
No because it would push the flapper valve away from the seat.

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tread


this is what's going on.
Fluid Finger Liquid Thumb Nail
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The death rattle will only be temporarily stopped by the WGA adjustment. Start looking for either a low mileage replacement, new, or bigger turbocharger.

A P0299 is inevitable at this point.
Sorry you’ve just reminded me. It did throw up the P0299 code in March . Had diagnostics done and it threw up under boost and numerous items. Mechanic said too hard to pinpoint which exact one would have caused the code, but would gladly take my money as we worked through them. He advised me to drive for a bit longer and see if it happens again. Which it hasn’t.
Whilst I had this Code the car never dropped in performance at all. It drove exactly how it did before. On the gauge I’d still get 1bar to 1-1/2bar when pulling. It was still driving the same today it just has that rattle on start up and deceleration.
Maybe the start of it all.
Only owned the car since January. Didn’t expect to be having to replacing the turbo 5 months later 🤣🤣
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just remember when I tightened mine up I had to double check I was doing it the right way. It's not THAT apparent you're going the correct way on it.

Like SSgtjrobertson said, though, you'll need another low-mileage K03, or better yet, go big turbo at this opportune time. Grab an ATP 2860 or 2867 gen 2, a MichaelST/Junits head-
to-turbo elbow to get rid of the lousy ATP elbow, a better intercooler if you don't have one, and a 3" catted DP, and you'll be in business. :)

If I'd have realized going BT would have been so much fun and at the same time making the car more drivable (and get better mileage), I'd have done that as soon as I got the intercooler installed instead of waiting and trying to wring everything I could out of the K03. That thing just sucks....
Cheers mate thanks for the info 👍
 

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The P0299 is the cause of the flapper valve failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Took the car back to the garage. He’s put the wastegate back to original position. Guess he definitely went the wrong way. Cars back to how it was before with boost but rattling as before 🤣so thanks for the help guys.
As he’s messed with the adjustment a retune is required till I can get a new turbo. Hopefully get some money together in the next month or so.
My main concern is there’s two main tuners in my area but ones got a bit of a bad reputation and the other is bombed out and can’t see me for at least another 2 weeks or so unless he get s a cancellation.
Would I be ok to drive the car gently without making much or any boost till I can get into the tuners?
I don’t drive the car that much, I’ve got a van which I’m in most of the time. So it’ll be mainly school runs max 30mins about 10 mile round journey and just getting about at weekends.
I just don’t want to mess up anything else in the turbo or engine.
Can’t fit the wife and two kids in the van 🤦‍♂️
Thanks in advance.
 

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Glad it was a relatively easy fix for you to get it back to where it was. You should be ok to drive it, but be aware that you may get an under boost code at some point.

As far as tuning goes, I'd probably just wait until you get the big turbo on it to worry about the tune (see what I did there.. Didn't say new turbo... Said BIG turbo) 😁. Just drive it easily until then.

Regarding tuners, most folks use a tuner who does E tuning.... They send you a map for the car, you load it up and take a couple data logs, send them back the info, they adjust.... Happens several times until things are nicely tuned. Sure, you could likely get more power from a Dyno tune from somebody who knows that they're doing, but I like e tuning since it's real world and not under "best" conditions. Some days may be really hot, others are cooler, but your data logs comprise a multitude of days, and he can adjust as such.
 
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