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Dang... Sorry OP. What is happening to you is what keeps me mostly stock. I'd love to do all of those fun "Big Turbo" things, but I don't think there's a way to do it while keeping my warranty since it'll be pretty obvious that there were some things swapped out with the intent of boosting performance at the expense of reliability. It sounds like you are pretty capable with a wrench... what's stopping you from pulling the motor and putting in a used one from a salvage ST? I see them for sale on car-part.com for $2000 or less, and I bet you spend half that amount just for the Ford diagnosis. And that's not to mention the months that these things sometimes take to get resolved.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Dang... Sorry OP. What is happening to you is what keeps me mostly stock. I'd love to do all of those fun "Big Turbo" things, but I don't think there's a way to do it while keeping my warranty since it'll be pretty obvious that there were some things swapped out with the intent of boosting performance at the expense of reliability. It sounds like you are pretty capable with a wrench... what's stopping you from pulling the motor and putting in a used one from a salvage ST? I see them for sale on car-part.com for $2000 or less, and I bet you spend half that amount just for the Ford diagnosis. And that's not to mention the months that these things sometimes take to get resolved.
Yeah **** happens when you start messing with a bunch of stuff. You can mod to this extent and be completely reliable like I said the overboosting was 100% my fault. But if the warranty falls through I’ll just swap it. No biggie just didn’t wanna have to pull the engine myself


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Yeah **** happens when you start messing with a bunch of stuff. You can mod to this extent and be completely reliable like I said the overboosting was 100% my fault. But if the warranty falls through I’ll just swap it. No biggie just didn’t wanna have to pull the engine myself


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Well we have all the resources you could need for the swap. Also you can buy a single scroll 2.0 motor from escapes, fusions, edges, a few other vehicles, with less of a markup then an actual Focus ST motor.

Yeah, more mods, more problems. I may know a thing or two about the tuner struggle, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Well we have all the resources you could need for the swap. Also you can buy a single scroll 2.0 motor from escapes, fusions, edges, a few other vehicles, with less of a markup then an actual Focus ST motor.

Yeah, more mods, more problems. I may know a thing or two about the tuner struggle, lol.
If it was just the rings I would just go ahead and swap those but after **** happened I found some oil splashed on the passenger side strut tower and firewall so I’m gonna have them look at it lol


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Im in the same boat as the OP. I just bought a 2016 ST 3 with 52k on it.. Put an Exhaust and CAI on it..I dont even have 2000 miles on it yet and Im pretty sure cylinder 2 rings or valves are toast. Drive the car home from work friday night ran great.. Started it Next morning always let it warm up backed out of the drive way got 1/2 mile down the road and CEL misfire cylinder 2 pulled the plug and the arc arm was crushed to a zero gap. which means something hit it and blew out the exhaust which was probably some of the valve guide or the ring. put a new plug in and it runs but you can tell its off something isnt right doesnt make power like it should and it just doesnt sound like it did before it happened.. good thing though..

Before I bought the car, i asked the finance manger if I put a CAI and exhaust on he wont void my power train warranty he said no.. (good)
I bought the 3rd party extended warranty aswell
I have the trump card as I found out the motor in the car is a re manufactured engine for ford .. Its not the factory motor that was in the car and no one disclosed that to me in writing or verbally when I purchased it.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Im in the same boat as the OP. I just bought a 2016 ST 3 with 52k on it.. Put an Exhaust and CAI on it..I dont even have 2000 miles on it yet and Im pretty sure cylinder 2 rings or valves are toast. Drive the car home from work friday night ran great.. Started it Next morning always let it warm up backed out of the drive way got 1/2 mile down the road and CEL misfire cylinder 2 pulled the plug and the arc arm was crushed to a zero gap. which means something hit it and blew out the exhaust which was probably some of the valve guide or the ring. put a new plug in and it runs but you can tell its off something isnt right doesnt make power like it should and it just doesnt sound like it did before it happened.. good thing though..

Before I bought the car, i asked the finance manger if I put a CAI and exhaust on he wont void my power train warranty he said no.. (good)
I bought the 3rd party extended warranty aswell
I have the trump card as I found out the motor in the car is a re manufactured engine for ford .. Its not the factory motor that was in the car and no one disclosed that to me in writing or verbally when I purchased it.
Definitely talk to the dealer you purchased from along with the warranty company and they should get you in to have it inspected. Person probably traded the car in knowing it was on its way out


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A single key cycle is a start from dead cold, through some range of rpm/load values to full warmup, to the next cold start. Basically you get 1 or 2 key cycles per day in normal driving. No real way to speed that up, nor to do it at all if the car can't be driven normally.
The factory engineers aren't total idiots anymore. Lol
 

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First off OP if you have a.3rd party warranty i would at all cost avoid taking it to the ford dealer because as @Duece McCracken said they have the tools and indepth computer progs if its requested they can send the ecu out and check the flash counter, and also i have read that each Ford comes with as everyone knows an as built file, and every flash ford ever does to your car for updates and your original calibration at the end of all the files has a 3 or 4 digit string of letters or numbers to correspond with an official ford file, once an aftermarket file is installed the string code at the end of the calibration wont match any of Fords. Now this was in an Hptuners forum just talking about this samething warranty write up, the one thing i coukdnt find is if you do uninstall the calibration and tune completely and revert it back to stock what does it leave behind? The consensus was that all tunes prolly leave some of kind if cookie trail
 
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