- Hello, new here, so let me try and make this as simple as possible. Yesterday I went to start my car (2013 FoST) and it stuttered and had a hard start. The RPM’s struggled to reach optimal level upon a cold start up, it kept chuckling as if it was fighting not to stall, and after about 50-60 seconds, it went straight to normal, RPM’s settled at normal, exhaust note normal, no stutter or anything. Like it went straight to normal after that bad start up. Immediately after it went to normal my first ever CEL came on for this car after owning it for 2 years with no issues buying it used at 98k miles (has 119k currently).
- So I went to autozone to get a code readout, and essentially I have the same 5 codes repeating. P0443, P0010, P0013, P0135, P0141. The codes stand as follows: P0443: EVAP control valve. P0010: Intake camshaft position actuator. P0013: Exhaust camshaft position actuator. P0135: 02 heater sensor 1. P0141: 02 heater sensor 2. My normal understanding is usually one code / issue will domino effect other codes, but here’s when it gets interesting.
- So I drove around and went to a few stores, did my normal thing for the day, groceries, etc right, and I was waiting in drive thru for some food when I noticed my temp gauge was climbing, it was near the redline. So after I got my food I pulled over to the side and my cooling fan wasn’t on, however when I turn my AC on, it turns on, but not on its own. Maybe it’s the switch? Module? That’s a topic for a different day since that never even showed up on the code. I checked fuses and relays and they were all good. Now for the really interesting part.
- So the very next day I decided to start figuring out what the original problem could’ve been. My theory was the EVAP valve might’ve set off the other 4 codes. I looked into my fuse box under the hood, and found the fuse F32, which is exhaust gas recovery valve, swirl control valves, heated oxygen sensors; blown. So I replaced it with a 30a fuse instead of the standard 10a fuse. So I assumed that could’ve fixed the issue since the tech at autozone told me to check the wiring and fuses, and so I proceeded to turn the car on and let it idle for a few mins.
- I originally was letting it idle to see if the fan would come on but after about 10 mins it did not, and for the CEL to turn off, again it did not. I then proceeded to try to turn the car on and off rapidly after about 2 second pauses to turn the CEL off. It did not work. Mind you it started normal on all of these occasions. So I then just left the car idling for a bit longer, and the new fuse never popped so I assumed all is well. After another 5 mins or so, guess what just happened? POP! I was sitting in the driver seat watching my temp gauge when I heard a loud pop, and a stream of smoke shoot out from the engine bay. I went to see what it was and it was a coil all unwounded and laying across the engine. I turned the car off immediately. After nearly an hour and a half of research I figured out it was my exhaust VVT solenoid has just popped like a champagne bottle.
- I picked up a new solenoid and will begin the replacement process soon, however is there anything else I should be aware of? Does my theory make sense? What’re your inputs, or any tips and advice on what to remove to replace this solenoid? It looks like I need to remove the valve cover and that’s a headache in itself for a simple $27 part. Any information would be gladly appreciated, thanks! Below is a photo of what it looked like after it popped. Nearly melted some wiring.