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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been getting crazy low minimums for the ignition correction. As low as -3 to even -4. I have posted a screenshot of the cobb gauge.

I also have listed 2 different 3rd gear pulls if someone can take a look and see if they see anything abnormal. Charge temps seem extremely high as well considering the logs were done in 60F at night.

datazap.me | omark2398 | 3rd Gear WOT Pull

This data log shows a 3rd gear pull into 4th:

datazap.me | omark2398 | 3rd Gear WOT Pull

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
 

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It would help if you included knock counts in the logs!

Scrolling through the datazap graphs, it looks like timing got pulled early in both runs and then added back in as the run progressed, and adding timing most of the way through both runs.

In the one graph, the tune increased negative OAR from -0.98 to -1, and in the other graph OAR stayed at -1. If things were really bad, you'd see the ECU move OAR away from -1.

Charge temps look normal for a stock FMIC during a pull. Get a snorkel and a closed-end air filter so you get air from outside the engine bay, and then a 3.5" FMIC like the Mountune ($$$) or the Steeda/cp-e/Depo Street/Strip model ($$). That'll fix the charge air temps.

You may also want to go one-step colder plugs (NGK 6510).

Blog : Ford Focus ST Modifications Guide by Stratified Auto : Stratified Automotive Controls

Hope that helps,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It would help if you included knock counts in the logs!

Scrolling through the datazap graphs, it looks like timing got pulled early in both runs and then added back in as the run progressed, and adding timing most of the way through both runs.

In the one graph, the tune increased negative OAR from -0.98 to -1, and in the other graph OAR stayed at -1. If things were really bad, you'd see the ECU move OAR away from -1.

Charge temps look normal for a stock FMIC during a pull. Get a snorkel and a closed-end air filter so you get air from outside the engine bay, and then a 3.5" FMIC like the Mountune ($$$) or the Steeda/cp-e/Depo Street/Strip model ($$). That'll fix the charge air temps.

You may also want to go one-step colder plugs (NGK 6510).

Blog : Ford Focus ST Modifications Guide by Stratified Auto : Stratified Automotive Controls

Hope that helps,
Mark
Thanks for the help. I also did a stage 0 pull, and got pretty low ign correction as well. Don't know what that means. This log has the knock count

datazap.me | omark2398 | Stage 0
 

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Thanks for the help. I also did a stage 0 pull, and got pretty low ign correction as well. Don't know what that means. This log has the knock count

datazap.me | omark2398 | Stage 0
This particular pull is odd.

Compared to the previous pulls, the ignition corrections are greater (more than 3 degrees on cylinder 1) yet OAR is at zero (because you just reflashed). Yet, if I'm reading the chart correctly, this a Stage 0 tune compared to what you were running before. IOW, a less aggressive tune file and a higher OAR shouldn't result in greater ignition corrections -- all other things being equal.

If it were me, for $50 I'd go get a 91 octane flash tune from Stratified (or Randy at Mountune, Justin @ Freektune or any one of the other popular tuners). I'd also buy the one-step colder NGK plugs and the Steeda Street/Strip FMIC. Running 140+ degrees of intake temp is just not where you want to be IMHO.

Hope that helps,
Mark
 
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