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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Happy Holidays FST ORG friends,

I currently have a CPE air intake installed and have a Velossatech big mouth on the way. Do you think I'll get better performance with the stock airbox and green filter or with my CAI?

Also, what's the harm of not renstalling the shroud rather than cutting when installing the Big Mouth?

Thanks,

Brad
 

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The shroud is there to direct airflow. Removing it can lead to cooling issues. Also, doesn't matter what you use, the snorkel is just for looks. I've yet to see any significant proven results. Stock intake is not restrictive. You don't need to updgrade intakes unless you are, or are planning to, go big turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Drew,

Thanks for the input. I will probably plan on cutting the shroud rather than removing it then. I see many (MANY!) STs with the Big Mouth installed without the shroud. Maybe they are doing it for looks alone.

My plans are to finish the install of my bolt on parts (FMIC, DP) and then move to the suspension. I have a rear sway bar and end links and am thinking about the mountune clubsport suspension kit. After that I may look into BT.
 

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What little decrease in flow removing the shrouds may cause will have little to no impact on the performance of the stock radiator or FMIC.
 

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I did not re-install my shrouds on the radiator or FMIC when I went big IC and rally light.
Still waiting on my snorkel to ship.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Angry.

Any thoughts about what is better... running the snorkel with the stock airbox or the CAI?
 

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Thanks Angry.

Any thoughts about what is better... running the snorkel with the stock airbox or the CAI?
Depends, really. If you're looking for maximum ram-air effect, you should use a closed end aftermarket filter and the stock airbox.

I believe the cp-e full intake has cutouts on the front and side of the airbox, correct? All those are doing is pulling in hot air from the engine bay, which kind of undoes the "cold air" part of the intake. It also negates the Velossa Tech's ram air pressure increase.

Go with the stock airbox if you're looking to actually benefit from the Big Mouth's ram air effect.

Just my $.02, though!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great point and my thoughts exactly. I will probably re-install the factory airbox and find a new home for the CPE intake. It looks awesome, sounds sweet, but probably isn't needed for performance. Thanks Isomorph!
 

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Depends, really. If you're looking for maximum ram-air effect, you should use a closed end aftermarket filter and the stock airbox.

I believe the cp-e full intake has cutouts on the front and side of the airbox, correct? All those are doing is pulling in hot air from the engine bay, which kind of undoes the "cold air" part of the intake. It also negates the Velossa Tech's ram air pressure increase.

Go with the stock airbox if you're looking to actually benefit from the Big Mouth's ram air effect.

Just my $.02, though!
Cp-e has a kit that blocks the vents for their box. So if you want to keep true cp-e kit there is that option.

Sent from another galaxy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cp-e has a kit that blocks the vents for their box. So if you want to keep true cp-e kit there is that option.

Sent from another galaxy.
@UnfocusedST this is exactly what I am going to try. Thanks for the recommendation. I will monitor I AT through the AP and see how much difference it makes from a sealed box and an open one.

I also decided to install the snorkel without the shroud. I can always reinstall it and cut it later if I choose.

The only thing about the hermetic box sealer is that it cost $15 bucks for shipping. Ouch!!!!!?
 

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@UnfocusedST this is exactly what I am going to try. Thanks for the recommendation. I will monitor I AT through the AP and see how much difference it makes from a sealed box and an open one.

I also decided to install the snorkel without the shroud. I can always reinstall it and cut it later if I choose.

The only thing about the hermetic box sealer is that it cost $15 bucks for shipping. Ouch!!!!!?
$40 + $15 for shipping is a rip off for some plexiglass and hardware.

Just go to your local hardware store and buy the stuff yourself. Might cost you $15 in parts, if that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
$40 + $15 for shipping is a rip off for some plexiglass and hardware.

Just go to your local hardware store and buy the stuff yourself. Might cost you $15 in parts, if that.
To be accurate it is actually $45 including shipping; not $55. With that said....still....R U SERIOUS?!?!?
 

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Every car Ive had for the last 25 years, Ive ran out and grabbed a CAI as my first modification. Not with this car.......the stock design is superb right out of the factory. IDK......IMO, you get a CAI for this car if you like to pop the hood at a car show.
 

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Every car Ive had for the last 25 years, Ive ran out and grabbed a CAI as my first modification. Not with this car.......the stock design is superb right out of the factory. IDK......IMO, you get a CAI for this car if you like to pop the hood at a car show.
Agreed. On stock turbo it won't do much of anything at all except look nice and sound nicer. I wrapped mine in reflective gold heat tape for sex appeal, but the local Honda's always ask me if it makes a big difference. Considering the intake doesn't do sh!t already I would assume the tape doesn't either :lol: looks awesome though :cool:

Edit: Honestly, changing the accordion elbow of the stock unit is the exact same as getting an aftermarket intake. Better off doing that if you're trying to save money.
 

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People expect there aftermarket intake is going to give them more peak Horsepower. Unless your car is a dyno queen that number doesn't matter. You spend so little time in that power band. First you won't make any additional power without a tune. These cars have torque targets. You hit that and the car starts pulling boost and timing so it won't go beyond that specified number. Now what most aftermarket intakes will do with a tune is give you a slight increase in mid band power. Now because the factory intake is pretty sufficient this number might not really stick out. The next piece of the puzzle is turbulence. The factory intake adds turbulence. Both the coupler from the airbox to the tube and first section of tube. Has anyone noticed why Mountune only replaces the first section. There is a huge divot there. That adds turbulence which the turbo doesn't like. This affects spool time. So most aftermarket intakes use a nice round tube to reduce turbulence. Less turbulence equals a better turbo spool. So yes an aftermarket intake might not get you all the power you want. However it does help.

Sent from another galaxy.
 

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Nailed it. ^
 

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I will say a Cold air intake "snorkel" does have some benefit. A friend and I were running different intake setups. I had the cp-e as I do now with a Ford Racing cold air kit. He ran an OEM intake. Over a two day auto x we did some comparisons. He ran OEM lid off the first day and lid on the second day. I ran my intake as it was for both. I had colder IATs both days compared to him. I know most people will say IATs are pointless because of the turbo. This may or may not be true. More testing would be needed for a definite answer. In my opinion a turbo will only heat up the air so much by the time it passes through the compressor housing. So the colder air should still be colder compared to the warmer air. If this is the case it will be slightly easier on the intercooler. What I would love to do if I had the equipment is test this theory. It would require temperature probes and for perfect conditions a stretch of track that on the same day and same car.
 

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There's plenty of videos on YouTube of dyno pulls netting around 3-6hp. Everyone says this and that about mods, but if the CAI is in your price range go for it. It's not going to net HUGE gains but if you don't have the cash for a FMIC. It's a mod that is generally done for "stage 3" so if you want to get it done first, then do it. It won't hurt.

As for the ram air - this mod is what I'm most interested in. This is probably the single cheapest mod IMO that would be effective assuming you have an enclosed air box. I made a cheap home depot self mod for my 90 Iroc-Z which was ram air. The tubes were made poorly by me and held together by duct tape. I saw a net trap of 2mph in my 1/4 mile. And that's poorly made. Jamming as much air as possible into an intake is always a good thing. Just a matter of how well is another question. My Camaro's TPI did make for a better system but still, 2mph trapped is a huge deal considering it was a bolt on and made for $40 bucks. We might not get that but for $170 bucks it seems like the best/cheapest mod you can do besides a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I love my Velossatech big mouth. Super simple install on my 2015. Don't have to remove the bumper, just have to pull the grill. I ordered the CPE hermetic sealer kit for my intake. I'll take some pics of it, the install and the final product. Looking forward to it to be honest.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
So I received the CP-E Hermetic Air Box Sealer kit to close off the holes in the air box. With the CP-E kit there is space that exists around the hole in the air box where the longer of the two tubes connects. In their installation instructions they mention that you "might" want to seal off this hole. Any thoughts on what I can use/create that is impermanent to seal off the open space around the tube?

Here is a picture that shows the hole I am referring too. You can see how it is shaped oblong to give plenty of room to install the tube (which is round).

Screenshot_20180108-063322.png
 
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