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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To re-introduce myself, I just recently purchased a 2017 Focus ST1. It's got miles on it and there are some discrepencies on it that allowed me to talk the price down.

I used to own a Tacoma Xrunner and I missed the fun of a manual.

After two days I am definitely keeping the ST1 for the long haul. In the process of fixing the discrepencies I am also trying to decipher what all has been done to it from the previous owner/s.

So far what I have found:
It is definitely an ST1 based on the cloth seats and no moon/sun roof.
I thought it was on 19 inch rims, turns out they are 20s.
The RS filter box has been installed.
The symposer has been deleted.
It appears to have an aftermarket intercooler.
It has a blow-off valve installed.
I measured as best I could the existing rims and it seems to be falling in between 4.25 and 4.5 inches of space which equates to 108 or 114. I will have to take the wheel off completely to be sure.

Still learning this vehicle but I am pleasantly surprised and how fun it is to drive even when not in boost. I am definitely moving to 17s with more meat since it's too stiff for my taste on the 20s.
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Congrats. I'm the original owner of a 17 ST1. At the 36,500 mile mark....the only thing that has ever gone wrong with it was that the battery cable was loose from the factory. On long highway trips at 75 mph it averages 32 mpg. On an annual basis it averages 27.3 mpg.
 

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2018 Ford Focus ST1 with a 2867 gen 2
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Congrats on the new (to you) ST. They really are a ton of fun to drive around... whether it be in the mountains, curvy backroads, or just back and forth to work. Be sure to NOT get into boost with the stock turbo in 5th/6th gear unless you're well over triple digit speeds. Around town, you'll not want to floor it in 3rd or 4th unless you're above 3000 rpm, either.. Read up on low speed pre-ignition. It's death to turbocharged direct injection motors. It's not hard to avoid, honestly, but there's been more than one person who's floored it in too high of a gear and cracked pistons.

Appears that you have a CPE intercooler, so that's a nice upgrade ($700 intercooler). You may want to get under it and see if you have the factory downpipe or not on it. If you've already got an aftermarket downpipe, then you're well on your way to either upgrading to a larger turbo (2860/2867/G25-550, etc.), or just sticking with the stock turbo and having it tuned by one of the folks who do a great job with this platform (JST, Edge, MonsterTuned, etc.).

FWIW, the RS airbox is not the best mod for a "cold air" intake since that hole in the front and top of it will suck in hot, underhood air. The better option is the factory sealed airbox lid. Fortunately, the lids are interchangeable, so you may find somebody to swap with you or you could just pick up one from a pick-a-part local to you. I believe all focuses use the same airbox (SE, Titanium, ST), and possibly even the Escapes. I know the air filter for my ST is the same for my Escape, and the airbox sure LOOKS the same.... Just an idea.

Regarding the rims/tires, take a look around on the for-sale board. Not sure where you're located, but a guy in Houston has a set of 5 snowflake rims (18s) that he's selling for $200, which is a heck of a steal. If I was within 10 hours of him I'd drive down to get them. For Sale - Stock Snowflake wheels for Sale - Houston Area
 

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Also check/measure the front brake rotor before you go buying 17" rims. There's a chance the prior owner went big brake and then the 17" rims won't fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also check/measure the front brake rotor before you go buying 17" rims. There's a chance the prior owner went big brake and then the 17" rims won't fit.
Sure enough, it looks like I will barely be able to fit an 18 inch rim in there. With the 20 inch rim now there's maybe a four/five finger gap between the fartherst point of the caliper and the inside of the 20 inch rim. Thanks for the heads up. I have a spare 18 inch rim I can use to "test fit" for clearance and as long as I can get the right 18 inch then I will be happy...just want more tire meat.

As for getting under the vehicle and going through the nitty gritty it will take some time. I stay plenty busy with family, work and other existing hobbies.
 

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do you still have the OEM spare tire? the photo above looks like OEM caliper not Brembo or other BBK. the spare should be 17".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
do you still have the OEM spare tire? the photo above looks like OEM caliper not Brembo or other BBK. the spare should be 17".
I plan to do an oil change tomorrow (my first day off for the week since getting the focus) and I will look into it along with other list items.

To any/all: on the note of oil, I noticed that the oil pressure gauge stays near the 0 range (or red indicator) but doesn't go to 0/red. What is an acceptable daily pressure range? Should I be concerned?
 

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2018 Ford Focus ST1 with a 2867 gen 2
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I plan to do an oil change tomorrow (my first day off for the week since getting the focus) and I will look into it along with other list items.

To any/all: on the note of oil, I noticed that the oil pressure gauge stays near the 0 range (or red indicator) but doesn't go to 0/red. What is an acceptable daily pressure range? Should I be concerned?
When cold or when warm, and at what rpm? When first started in the morning, mine will go almost to the max psi on the gauge, and it'll take a while for it come down to a lower value. Once warm, though, the oil pressure will be just a bit above the low pressure area on the gauge at idle. While cruising, it'll be just about in the middle of the gauge.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When cold or when warm, and at what rpm? When first started in the morning, mine will go almost to the max psi on the gauge, and it'll take a while for it come down to a lower value. Once warm, though, the oil pressure will be just a bit above the low pressure area on the gauge at idle. While cruising, it'll be just about in the middle of the gauge.
That's exactly what I'm seeing. I'm guessing that's normal. Cool cool.
 

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The oil gauge is fake anyway. It's based on rpm and coolant temp the ECU just provides a calculation to estimate the pressure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Starting to prep for the oil change. Was able to use ramps so it's great that it's not set too low. I took some pictures of the front and rear calipers (with the wheel still on) and was hoping if anyone can maybe see if these are stock calipers and bolt pattern?

I am still going to remove the front wheel and do a "dry fit" of an 18 inch rim. I currently have a 5x120 and a 5x114.3 rim available (no 5x108) but a part of me is hoping the previous owner swapped hubs for 5x114. Will see by days end.
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Sure looks OEM to me. should be able to fit 17s. 18s not problem even with the RS brembos 18s are possible some just require spacers.. although the "premium" ST wheels can not be used with the RS brembos.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You all are awesome. After the oil change I was able to verify. According to you all and what I saw it has to be the stock caliper. No complaints from me since now I know I can fit 17s. It is also still 5x108 so the hubs haven't been changed. However, if there is a way to change it to 5x114.3 and keep the stock calipers I would be fine with that.

I got my husky liners in the mail today and got those in. I always prefer all weather mats to carpet. Got a couple of other things in the mail too. By the end of the week I should have it looking a bit different from what it is now.

Interestingly enough, the car is at 74xxx miles now. I had already intended to change the oil asap for my knowledge. When I was prepping the car today the dash displayed an engine life info screen. I had been driving it everyday since this past Wednesday. On my Hondas (Pilot/Ridgeline) there is a way to reset the maintenance minder for the oil...does focus st have something similar?
 

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When I was prepping the car today the dash displayed an engine life info screen. I had been driving it everyday since this past Wednesday. On my Hondas (Pilot/Ridgeline) there is a way to reset the maintenance minder for the oil...does focus st have something similar?
 

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9r you can also reset via Cobb ap
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I forgot to mention that the fog lights not coming on was because of the harness not being connected. It was an easy fix and easier to forget I did it while changing the oil.

I found what rims and tires I want for the vehicle, now I just need to wait for them to be delivered.

Is there any way to tell if there is any kind of tune programming done to this vehicle? I have a bluetooth OBDII dongle that works with the android carscanner app. Other than that I don't currently have any other means to check (if it can be checked).
 

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This will confirm only if there is a tune with multiple maps. The quote below is direct from Cobb, but some turners use the same map switching. While parked, engine on and in neutral (safety first), you hit cruise off, then cancel, then the plus button. If the tach moves up and down with the plus or minus, you know you have a tune. However, if it doesn't move, you still may have a tune! If you want a tune, get an accessport asap and find a tuner you like (and until that time, run only 93 and go slow). If you don't want a tune, head to a dealer and pay them to flash it to stock (after, still run the highest octane you can 91/93). Be safe.

"How To:5-Way Map Switching on Ford Vehicles
Applicable Model/Year:
Ford Fiesta ST 2014-19
Ford Focus ST 2013-2018
Ford Focus RS 2018
Ford Mustang Ecoboost 2015-2017

How To Enable:
This comes pre-enabled on all current OTS maps. If your map switching isn't working ensure you are on the most recent firmware and maps for your unit.

Steps to Use:
Flash a map with 5-way map switching enabled
Click cancel/resume button on your cruise control in order to activate the switching.
Use "Set -" and "Set +" to change between available maps.
Map position will be marked on the tachometer by the needle sweeping to 1,2,3,4, or 5. Or you are able to add a gauge on the Accessport to monitor map position."
 
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I forgot to mention that the fog lights not coming on was because of the harness not being connected. It was an easy fix and easier to forget I did it while changing the oil.

I found what rims and tires I want for the vehicle, now I just need to wait for them to be delivered.

Is there any way to tell if there is any kind of tune programming done to this vehicle? I have a bluetooth OBDII dongle that works with the android carscanner app. Other than that I don't currently have any other means to check (if it can be checked).
most aftermarket tunes will have a higher boost target than the stock tune. you could data log the boost pressure sensor with the bluetooth obd2 and your phone and if you get more boost than 21psi you have a tune.
 
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The boost targeting attempt seems risky to me. I would spend the money either on an accessport or flash from Ford for peace of mind (and quickly so you can really enjoy the car).

Imagine the new owner attempts the boost target idea and it's on an E tune and they only have 91 octane in the car? Might get a lot of knock/Kabooms.

Clearly this car has been modified and not all details passed along to the new owner. Safe > sorry.
 
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