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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
amp layout.jpg

DSR1

Pioneer TS-D1730C 6 3/4" Component Speaker Package, Set of 2

Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure SUB WOOFER

Pioneer GM-D9605
5-channel car amplifier


*** the system sounds great ***

Tonight I finished getting every thing installed. Man what a difference ... However the NEW sub seems to not be set up right. It is working but not putting out much bass at all. This set up with the stock sub was working better with the settings I had than the new sub.

the bass from the doors are great but the sub is not doing its job.



Rockford Fosgate perfect tune app, really dont know know what the hell im doing with it. I have the basic tune stuff but the other settings, Im clueless

What is a good starting point with the advanced settings ?

The AMP

There are a lot of toggles and tuning knobs that I am afraid to play with. I did turn down all three gains and then slowly adjust them one at a time until the sound distorted and then back them down.

The other settings NO CLUE

I know there are three sets of adjustments

Channel A
FREQ ?
HPF LPF ?
GAIN set to Normal
2ch or 4ch set to 4ch

Channel B

FREQ ?
HPF LPF ?
GAIN set to Normal
2ch or 4ch set to 4ch

slope 12db or 24 db ? set to 12db

SW
slope 12db or 24 db ? set to 12db
Input AB or SW set to SW
 

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This is how I would start:
Channel A
FREQ
HPF LPF (HPF set to about 80)
GAIN set to Normal
2ch or 4ch set to 4ch (good)

Channel B

FREQ ?
HPF LPF ? (HPF set to around 80)
GAIN set to Normal
2ch or 4ch set to 4ch (good)

slope 12db or 24 db (leave set to 12db)

SW (LPF at around 80, if equipped)
slope 12db or 24 db (set to 24db)
Input AB or SW set to SW (change to AB since you should be using RCA from DSR-1 to amp inputs)
 

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Ive been thinking about posting the same kind of question. I can install all the equipment but I don't know where to start with tuning it. I've got about $1500 worth of stuff that I really don't want to use as a learning tool. I had thought about bringing it to an audio shop right after the install and having them do the tuning with an RTA. Thoughts? Heres what I have for equipment- DSR1, Alpine PDX-V9, Morel Tempo Ultra Coax/Components, and a JL 8W3v3-4 Sub in a modified stock enclosure. Are there any adjustments that if set wrong could smoke a set of speakers right off the bat?
 

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I took the crossovers that came with my speakers out and used the DSR1 in advanced to set my crossover points after looking up their frequency ranges. I am running a 8 inch sub so I set my low pass at 100hz. Use the app under advanced settings go to equalizer on the sub output and move that 40hz gain up some until you are happy. The DSR1 seems to default turning down the subwoofer on each start-up. I need to figure that out.
 

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first of all, dont waste the DSR1... set all of the Xovers on the amp to "off". then it doesn't matter what the "freq" is set to.

for the sub, you cant really turn it off so you can either make the adjustment there, or turn it to its highest setting (500hz) and the slope to its lowest setting (12db/octave) and then set it up in the DSR1 settings

for input select, you need to have 3 pairs of RCA ran between the DSR1 and the amp, then set it to "4ch" and "SW"



then in the Xover setting in the DSR1, as mentioned above, I would start with a HPF on the front and rear channels of 80hz with a 12db/octave slope and for the sub a LPF* of 80hz with a 12db/octave slope. then you can raise them or lower them a little bit at a time to see how low you can go on the fronts and rears before they distort from too much bass. if you don't push the volume too high, you can get away with a lower setting, but the louder you push them, the easier they are to blow with too much bass.

as for the sub's setting, it really depends on what it is, and what its in. if its the OEM sub and/or the OEM box its really small of a box to get much more out of, I only listened to mine on the bigger amp for the drive home from work until I could get my real sub since it sounded so terrible. also since it cant take or output much more, its going to sound a lot quieter now since all of the other speakers have a lot more power going to them.



*if the sub is in a ported box, I'd use a bandpass filter on the sub xover so that you can filter out off of the sub sonic freqs so they dont destroy the sub. bandpass setting with the HPF(the left slider) set to 20hz and the LPF(the right slider) set to 80hz. hell I would also do this if using the OEM sub or the OEM box
 

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The DSR1 seems to default turning down the subwoofer on each start-up. I need to figure that out.
you need to get it set where you want it, then save it as a preset. then it will default to that preset every time it turns on, was having a problem with that too until that solution was mentioned on here.
 

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I had thought about bringing it to an audio shop right after the install and having them do the tuning with an RTA. Thoughts?
never a bad idea, and shouldn't cost much more than an hour of shop time(if that, but some shops do have minimums). then at least you know you would have a good flat solid as a starting point, which you can keep saved as a preset, then go off of that flat base setup and make adjustments from there to suite your listening taste and if you ever mess it up too much, just go back to the their base preset and start over.

Are there any adjustments that if set wrong could smoke a set of speakers right off the bat?
there is always the chance of damaging something if the settings are not correct. this is especially true if doing an active setup. however if using the crossovers that came with the Morel speakers, then the important things are well protected (such as not sending bass to the tweeters) so you really dont have to worry about much. just make sure the gains are not turned up to high and I'd still set the HPFs on the door speaker channels and either a LPF or bandpass filter for the sub channel.
 

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never a bad idea, and shouldn't cost much more than an hour of shop time(if that, but some shops do have minimums). then at least you know you would have a good flat solid as a starting point, which you can keep saved as a preset, then go off of that flat base setup and make adjustments from there to suite your listening taste and if you ever mess it up too much, just go back to the their base preset and start over.



there is always the chance of damaging something if the settings are not correct. this is especially true if doing an active setup. however if using the crossovers that came with the Morel speakers, then the important things are well protected (such as not sending bass to the tweeters) so you really dont have to worry about much. just make sure the gains are not turned up to high and I'd still set the HPFs on the door speaker channels and either a LPF or bandpass filter for the sub channel.
Ya I like the idea of having a shop set it up this way. Then I won't be wondering if it could be better if I had set it up myself. I didn't know if they would be interested in doing something like that though. And thanks for the settings info. I didn't want to screw anything up before I got it to the shop to be setup properly.
 

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Ya I like the idea of having a shop set it up this way. Then I won't be wondering if it could be better if I had set it up myself. I didn't know if they would be interested in doing something like that though. And thanks for the settings info. I didn't want to screw anything up before I got it to the shop to be setup properly.
You can RTA it yourself using your smartphone, an app called AudioTools, and a Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Mic for $24. I do also recommend a TRRS 3.5mm extension cable for this.

This system is accurate +/-4%. You can get better accuracy, but costs quickly go up with higher quality setups. AudioControl sells a calibrated RTA mic, the iTestMic for $199, but only works with iOS devices. There are many, many other mics. The important bit here is ensuring the mic you purchased has a calibration file available to feed to the RTA. The Dayton mic offers this.

The higher cost mics generally are more accurate over a wider range of amplitudes and frequencies. When I get some time I plan to make a video outlining how to RTA your setup using the DSR1, PerfectTune, and AudioTools. Hoping within a week or two.
 

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You can RTA it yourself using your smartphone, an app called AudioTools, and a Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Mic for $24. I do also recommend a TRRS 3.5mm extension cable for this.

This system is accurate +/-4%. You can get better accuracy, but costs quickly go up with higher quality setups. AudioControl sells a calibrated RTA mic, the iTestMic for $199, but only works with iOS devices. There are many, many other mics. The important bit here is ensuring the mic you purchased has a calibration file available to feed to the RTA. The Dayton mic offers this.

The higher cost mics generally are more accurate over a wider range of amplitudes and frequencies. When I get some time I plan to make a video outlining how to RTA your setup using the DSR1, PerfectTune, and AudioTools. Hoping within a week or two.
Well that's pretty cool, I didn't know that. But I'd have no idea how to set it up even if I had the equipment. I'd really be interested in that video, that would be awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
First day back from travel, I had some time to play with the amp and perfect tune.

I am now starting to understand perfect tune after reading and playing with 1LoudST help in a previous comment. One issue I think I dont have the DSR1 set proper. Once in set up choosing the right speaker configuration I can tell the DSR1 is making some big changes.

When I leave the toggle switch on the amp in the SW position I barely get anything out of the Rear Sub. Still a problem ...


Using the channel A/B side for the sub signal and now I am starting to get some base back.

The stereo sounds great and getting better the more I get the system dialed. Just wish i could get the 10" sub woofer to thump just a little harder using the SW output



Should we start a new topic on proper set up of the DSR1 with perfect tune? ( If I figure it out this weekend I will be sure to post my results )

Device setup ?

I have T harness selected

Output channel config ?

I have selected Fronts(2way)+rear+sub

PLC Knob function ?

I have NOT connected

IMG_0496.PNG
 

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................
What follows assumes you've already configured Maestro for your vehicle using a computer and the USB cable. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART

Trace all RCAs. Are you CERTAIN you have sub-outs from DSR1 connected to SW INPUT on amp?
Switch Sub input switch to SW
Turn amp's onboard SW crossover up to 500Hz and 12db/Oct
Turn SW gain up to 75%
Ensure DSR1 input switch is set appropriately for your vehicle
Ensure all bass/treble settings are set to midpoint (usually 0) in factory radio
If you have two subs (and/or dual voice coils), ensure they are wired in-phase. (If I told you how many times I've corrected this in other people's systems you wouldn't believe me.)
In PerfectTune, Set Sub Level to -15 (mid-level), Punch level 0, Sub xover to [Bandpass:Low-Pass at 80Hz:High-Pass at 25Hz:Slope at 36dB/Oct]

Once all this is done, play something bass heavy and start turning it up. Now play with the Sub Level in PerfectTune Homepage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I might just run the Maestro set up again on the PC, I had some issues at first getting IE and the DSR1 to talk.

Thanks for the help

I have sub out from DSR 7&8 going into the amp, maybe stepping back and double check the RCA will help also I have been in a rush due to work travel. Now that I have hours i should step back a few steps.

I still have to install all the sound mat I was waiting on.

I will check in tomorrow




................
What follows assumes you've already configured Maestro for your vehicle using a computer and the USB cable. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART

Trace all RCAs. Are you CERTAIN you have sub-outs from DSR1 connected to SW INPUT on amp?
Switch Sub input switch to SW
Turn amp's onboard SW crossover up to 500Hz and 12db/Oct
Turn SW gain up to 75%
Ensure DSR1 input switch is set appropriately for your vehicle
Ensure all bass/treble settings are set to midpoint (usually 0) in factory radio
If you have two subs (and/or dual voice coils), ensure they are wired in-phase. (If I told you how many times I've corrected this in other people's systems you wouldn't believe me.)
In PerfectTune, Set Sub Level to -15 (mid-level), Punch level 0, Sub xover to [Bandpass:Low-Pass at 80Hz:High-Pass at 25Hz:Slope at 36dB/Oct]

Once all this is done, play something bass heavy and start turning it up. Now play with the Sub Level in PerfectTune Homepage.
 

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I might just run the Maestro set up again on the PC, I had some issues at first getting IE and the DSR1 to talk.

Thanks for the help

I have sub out from DSR 7&8 going into the amp, maybe stepping back and double check the RCA will help also I have been in a rush due to work travel. Now that I have hours i should step back a few steps.

I still have to install all the sound mat I was waiting on.

I will check in tomorrow
Right on. Bear in mind, these are all just test settings. 75% gain is just arbitrary and the optimal setup for your amplifier may differ. What we're trying to troubleshoot is why you aren't getting proper output from the subwoofer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
:big smile:

Step one unplugged everything and triple check the RCAs ( All Good)
Step two updated and ran the Imaestro dash board ( PIA getting it to work on IE 11 ) There is an option to open a new window in IE "NON Edge" this fixed a lot of issues for me

step three hooked up all the equipment and BAM still no sub using the SW channel SOB :tongue:

Step four WTF am I doing, remove the channel a/b RCAs ... still no sound coming from SUB

Step five Unplug the SUB and check the polarity coming in from the stock wires.

Angles sing ...sun shines threw the clouds upon me ... Bass hit me in the chest like a 50 lbs sack of sand :big smile:

So when I hooked up the new sub using the stock wires I had polarity incorrectly marked. the two (-) white wires go together and the two stripped wires ( + ) Black/white & Blue /white.

Now time for sound mat ...




Right on. Bear in mind, these are all just test settings. 75% gain is just arbitrary and the optimal setup for your amplifier may differ. What we're trying to troubleshoot is why you aren't getting proper output from the subwoofer.
 

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:big smile:

Step one unplugged everything and triple check the RCAs ( All Good)
Step two updated and ran the Imaestro dash board ( PIA getting it to work on IE 11 ) There is an option to open a new window in IE "NON Edge" this fixed a lot of issues for me

step three hooked up all the equipment and BAM still no sub using the SW channel SOB :tongue:

Step four WTF am I doing, remove the channel a/b RCAs ... still no sound coming from SUB

Step five Unplug the SUB and check the polarity coming in from the stock wires.

Angles sing ...sun shines threw the clouds upon me ... Bass hit me in the chest like a 50 lbs sack of sand :big smile:

So when I hooked up the new sub using the stock wires I had polarity incorrectly marked. the two (-) white wires go together and the two stripped wires ( + ) Black/white & Blue /white.

Now time for sound mat ...
Killer job troubleshooting, mate! Nice going!
 

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Sound mat is definitely needed on the cars. Everything rattles and vibrates with my JL10 and 500 watts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Sound mat is definitely needed on the cars. Everything rattles and vibrates with my JL10 and 500 watts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Definitely. A guy over on DIY Mobile Audio, keep_hope_alive put together some fantastic videos about how best to approach this topic. He's incredibly knowledgeable and details some of the nuances between structural noise, acoustical noise, road noise, and sympathetic (where one part rattles against another) noise - AND which products apply to which type. On top of this, he goes into great detail about how to employ inexpensive, off-the-shelf products to tackle each type of problem. Search his channel for more.

 

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there is always the chance of damaging something if the settings are not correct. this is especially true if doing an active setup. however if using the crossovers that came with the Morel speakers, then the important things are well protected (such as not sending bass to the tweeters) so you really dont have to worry about much.
This is why I am still using the crossovers that came with my JLs, until I get all the nuances of the DSR figured out. Once I am confident in the settings, I will remove them and rewire full active. It is already SO MUCH better than that stupid Sony amp/processor joke.
 
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