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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone I drove my 17 st the other day and 4th gear grinds, all other gears are fine. The only way I can go into 4th is if the car is off. I’ve been asking around and people are saying it’s either bad synchros, shift linkage or something with the clutch/ pressure plate. I recently had clutch replacement 600 miles before 4th went. Any ideas?
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Have you tried the simple neutral reset yet or confirmed nothing is interfering with the linkage?
Just did the reset and now it doesn’t grind trying to get into 4th (while the car is running) but I let off the clutch a little to the grab point and it started to grind. I think it’s not fully going into gear. I have the Cobb short shift plate do you think that is causing the issue, should I try removing the short shift plate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This ^^^

It sounds like the cable reset was not performed. If it's been grinding for a bit or if you've been trying to force it a lot, the synchros might be broken or toast.
I haven’t driven the car since I noticed the grinding and was skipping 4th when I was driving it. Do you thing the synchros could still be damaged?
 

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Just did the reset and now it doesn’t grind trying to get into 4th (while the car is running) but I let off the clutch a little to the grab point and it started to grind. I think it’s not fully going into gear. I have the Cobb short shift plate do you think that is causing the issue, should I try removing the short shift plate?
Is it the first gen with only two shift point options or the revised with three?
First gen, notoriously bad:
Guitar accessory Font Musical instrument accessory Auto part Cable



Second gen, slightly better but most will say to stay away (which I believe it mostly gets a bad rap from the first gen.)
Guitar accessory Motor vehicle Musical instrument accessory Bicycle part String instrument accessory



As mentioned, yes, you should remove it first and see if anything is improved. It is a far easier thing than pulling the trans and rebuilding, so first step lets try and rule it out. Do the reset again once its back to stock
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is it the first gen with only two shift point options or the revised with three?
First gen, notoriously bad:
View attachment 411639


Second gen, slightly better but most will say to stay away (which I believe it mostly gets a bad rap from the first gen.)
View attachment 411638


As mentioned, yes, you should remove it first and see if anything is improved. It is a far easier thing than pulling the trans and rebuilding, so first step lets try and rule it out. Do the reset again once its back to stock
I have the second gen, I will remove it later today or tomorrow and let you guys know how that goes. Thank you for all the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the second gen, I will remove it later today or tomorrow and let you guys know how that goes. Thank you for all the help
Shift plate has been removed and I took it’s for a little test drive. While driving at the start of 4th it grinds for like a second or two and then I’m able to put it further into gear without forcing it but as soon as the clutch is released it grinds and kind of jumps out of gear. I’d say it improved but I still think it’s not going all the way into the gear
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey guys I’m having issues with 4th gear and I believe the synchro is bad, would you recommend buying oem synchro or aftermarket. I was looking at the mmt6 carbon synchro set. Also my friend said I should ask if there is any shift quality issues with the aftermarket synchros like would I need to rev match or anything like that. Thank you
 

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Since it pops out of gear, I would be more inclined to think it's the shift forks being worn contributing to that rather than just the synchronizers.
 

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I have a set of the Mountune Carbon Syncros waiting for install during the LSD install (found here for much higher price! Ford MMT6 Carbon Synchro Complete Install Kit - Focus St). They were more-highly recommended for longevity. No negatives have been reported to my knowledge. Of course, that will all depend on the install (and they're not hard once you have the tranny cracked open and see what you're dealing with from what I can tell). As long as you have a good installation, then you'll be good to go.

Other things to do while you're in there:
-Clutch Slave Cylinder! I haven't done it, but it's cheap and sounds like a part that just comes with the territory if you have to pull your transmission.
-LSD? If you're thinking of getting one, get the labor discount to bundle the rebuild!
 

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If you're grinding you will also need a new 4th gear and 3-4 slider to bring it back into spec. You can skip this but it will not shift like new but would be a lot better.

I doubt your shift fork is messed up because you'd have the same issue with 3rd as well.

If you're going to get it rebuilt get the cf synchros. It is a night and day difference.

All the kits don't give you the outer 1-2 ring, so what I did was order 2 new OEM synchros to get new outer rings. It was an extra 100 dollars but worth it to get everything like new.


Also that short shifter is junk, imo v1 and v2.


The short shifters that work the best are the ones that replace the whole shift arm. JBR and the mountune one work really well.
 
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