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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some advice on track day events. I attended a NASA drivers school at Gingerman Raceway a few weeks ago and had a lot of fun with the ST. We had rain in the morning and hot mid 80's humid weather for the rest of the weekend. This was my first track event with the ST all my other events were Autocross and ProSolo stuff.

Heres my problem the car overheated and went into limp mode after two or three laps, I noticed that each time I passed a slower car the temp gauge would rise till it was pegged and limp mode would kick in. The car was fast but couldn't handle the stress of WOT to pass. Letting the car cool down before each run I learned how to keep it from overheating but it was a bit disappointing having to keep worrying about the overheating problem and learning my line.

If I attend another track event I've been told to consider replacing the OE radiator and FMIC any other areas I should consider modifying? If I do replace them I'm out of G stock class in Autocross events so I may want to consider what type of events to attend.

Also since the car overheated a few times I have since changed the oil & filter, any other safe guards I should consider, coolant etc.? At present the car runs fine with no issues, I do give Ford credit for a system that works at keeping the car running through all this.

Thanks.....:cool:

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2013 ST3 115K miles; Cobb Intake, Accessport v3 MAP 1, Scorpion 3" CATBACK exhaust, Short Shifter kit, new pads & rotors.
 

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Yeah...road course tracking this car is in my distant future. Based on others’ experiences, before I do so I’m going to:
  • Install real gauges to objectively measure coolant & oil temps.
  • Replace OE radiator
  • Install oil cooler
  • Build some ducting to funnel air into the upgraded radiator & oil cooler.
  • Replace OE brakes (not cooling related but will create a similar type of disappointment & frustration).

I’ve already replaced the FMIC.

With the exception of the gauges & ductwork, I suggest you do the same before your next track day. You’ll likely have a more enjoyable experience. #YouHaveToPayToPlay
 
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FMIC helped, Mishimoto coolant reservoir adds some capacity which also helped. Oil cooler helped due to the cooling and increased capacity. Shaving the grill returned decent results but I don't have any ducting. Absolutely get better pads, I run DTC-60 up front at the track and better brake fluid, Motul 660 for me. Radiator is on the list for me but pretty far down. I can run the car pretty much full bore for an entire 30 minute session without having to stress temps.
 

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Absolutely get an upgraded FMIC 1st and foremost. That will give you the best immediate returns for cooling. Sustained track times, like NASA events, might give sufficient reason for upgrading the radiator and oil cooler (if this is something you're planning to do more frequently). If you're getting enough time to cool down between runs, like an auto X, then you wouldn't need to go crazy with additional cooling.

Ducting helps quite a bit. Especially at higher speeds. FMIC, radiator, and brakes can all benefit from a few custom cut pieces of plastic 😎
 

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In my experience, your coolant shouldn't be overheating in the mid-80s. At 115k miles, it's definitely time for flushing the coolant unless you've done it regularly. Replacing radiator & water pump with OEM parts might be on the table.

The only time I've gone into limp mode was back-to-back autox runs in 100+F weather (radiator and intercooler were sprayed with cold water between runs, but the car went out for a run right afterwards). Full limp mode happened when the coolant gauge was at the 3/4 mark.

Charging up long grades (10+ miles) in 90+F weather has never resulted in coolant temps rising.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds like the FMIC is a must, I do have a power brake bleeder and did install new Hawk pads and rotors before the the school (that will need to change before winter). I will flush the coolant, that has only been changed once over the life of the car. Someone else mentioned to check that the radiator shutters are not closing during these runs because the temp went up to max very quickly. Maybe something is closed off during the drive not properly circulating the coolant.
 

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Need some advice on track day events. I attended a NASA drivers school at Gingerman Raceway a few weeks ago and had a lot of fun with the ST. We had rain in the morning and hot mid 80's humid weather for the rest of the weekend. This was my first track event with the ST all my other events were Autocross and ProSolo stuff.

Heres my problem the car overheated and went into limp mode after two or three laps, I noticed that each time I passed a slower car the temp gauge would rise till it was pegged and limp mode would kick in. The car was fast but couldn't handle the stress of WOT to pass. Letting the car cool down before each run I learned how to keep it from overheating but it was a bit disappointing having to keep worrying about the overheating problem and learning my line.

If I attend another track event I've been told to consider replacing the OE radiator and FMIC any other areas I should consider modifying? If I do replace them I'm out of G stock class in Autocross events so I may want to consider what type of events to attend.

Also since the car overheated a few times I have since changed the oil & filter, any other safe guards I should consider, coolant etc.? At present the car runs fine with no issues, I do give Ford credit for a system that works at keeping the car running through all this.

Thanks.....:cool:

View attachment 394536 View attachment 394534 View attachment 394535
2013 ST3 115K miles; Cobb Intake, Accessport v3 MAP 1, Scorpion 3" CATBACK exhaust, Short Shifter kit, new pads & rotors.
I have same problem on the track days. I have FMIC. I'm using competition coolant. But I have limp mode after two or three laps.
 

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FMIC
 

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Everyone's already given you great suggestions. I'm just here to say I'm happy to see a silver st with racing stripes I don't hate!
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Everyone's already given you great suggestions. I'm just here to say I'm happy to see a silver st with racing stripes I don't hate!
Thanks, us silver car need to stick together. A least our OE weeks match the body color. ha.....
 

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Sounds like the FMIC is a must, I do have a power brake bleeder and did install new Hawk pads and rotors before the the school (that will need to change before winter). I will flush the coolant, that has only been changed once over the life of the car. Someone else mentioned to check that the radiator shutters are not closing during these runs because the temp went up to max very quickly. Maybe something is closed off during the drive not properly circulating the coolant.
id say take those shutters out once you slap an intercooler in
 

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With the stock FMIC will go on limp mode very fast. I read you are using Cobb map 1. Make sure you are not running too lean, that will raise the exhaust temperature and the head temp sensor will trigger the limp mode faster. Use a wetter additive for the coolant, actually a 70/30 with additive will help. A legal for autocross FMIC will set you back $1k. Oil cooler with thermostat will keep your oil around 180 degrees. It doesn’t need to be too fancy or big if you use some type of funnel around it. Frankenstein rear brakes will take some load away from the front brakes. Turn off the etraction system before track time or you will cook your front brakes. Remove the engine cover. Use a front pad that can operate at 650 degree, that’s how hot it gets. Rear brake pads are not so critical as long there are not stock or similar pads. Car is not legal for autocross without the shutters. Aftermarket coilovers are a must. Have fun!
 
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Just so there isnt any confusion, for SCCA Solo competition in the Street Touring Hatchback class, the only legal intercooler is the Vortech as it retains the AGS. If you decided to play in anything outside of Street Touring for autox, you can do what ever the hell you want within those given rulesets, but Street Touring is specific when in comes to not removing certain OEM parts to facilitate install.
 
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Just so there isnt any confusion, for SCCA Solo competition in the Street Touring Hatchback class, the only legal intercooler is the Vortech as it retains the AGS. If you decided to play in anything outside of Street Touring for autox, you can do what ever the hell you want within those given rulesets, but Street Touring is specific when in comes to not removing certain OEM parts to facilitate install.
What about a Depo FMIC that has the AGS system trimmed so 2 of 4 mounting locations are still stock (other 2 have zip ties, lol) and is still fully functional? I honestly still haven't figured out what class I would run in for SCCA Auto-X!
 

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What about a Depo FMIC that has the AGS system trimmed so 2 of 4 mounting locations are still stock (other 2 have zip ties, lol) and is still fully functional? I honestly still haven't figured out what class I would run in for SCCA Auto-X!
The part in the bold face specifically answers your question.

STU and STH only: As utilized only on engines originally equipped with forced induction, induction charge heat exchangers (also known as “intercoolers” or “charge air coolers” [CACs]) are unrestricted in size and shape. Air-to-air CACs and radiators for air-to-liquid CACs must be cooled only by the atmosphere except for standard parts. Body panels, fascias, or structural members may not be cut or altered to facilitate CAC installation. Removal of vehicle components to facilitate installation is not allowed. Holes may be drilled for mounting.
 

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What about a Depo FMIC that has the AGS system trimmed so 2 of 4 mounting locations are still stock (other 2 have zip ties, lol) and is still fully functional? I honestly still haven't figured out what class I would run in for SCCA Auto-X!
When you've exceeded STH-legal mods, you have a choice of DSP, SMF, or XSA (officially called XA now). SMF is the most favorable of these classes since it has the best PAX index, leaves you competing against only fwd cars, and more allowances (any DOT tires, suspension, aero, motor, weight reduction). DSP is second best (any DOT tires plus some minor stuff slightly beyond STH, weight reduction limited to STH-style) and XSA is a fool's errand (SMF style mods on 200 treadwear tires with a significantly worse PAX index and not eligible for the Nationals).

To be competitive in any of these classes, you will need 10-12" wide rims with fender flares running wider & more expensive tires than STH which quickly outstrips the extra expense of the Vortech intercooler of an STH car.

Tire example for DSP & SMF
P295/30ZR18 Hoosier A7 = $1784 per set of 4

Tire examples for XSA
295/30ZR18 Yokohama A052 = $1401 per set of 4
285/30ZR18 Falken RT660 = $1110 per set of 4

Tire examples for STH
265/35R18 Yokohama A052 = $1222 per set of 4
265/35ZR18 Falken RT660 = $910 per set of 4
 

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OP- you should ask the guys who now own the STOA cars what mods were done to them. I drove those cars at the school in Utah, and those cars got pounded all day and none of them had any overheating problems.
 

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OP- you should ask the guys who now own the STOA cars what mods were done to them. I drove those cars at the school in Utah, and those cars got pounded all day and none of them had any overheating problems.
I asked one of the instructors, Mishimoto radiator and FMIC, I think the A/C condenser was removed too.
2014 Focus ST – Vehicle Specs

Power //
  • 2.0L Ti-VCT Turbocharged Ford EcoBoost I-4
  • 252 hp / 270 ft lbs torque
Cooling //
  • Enhanced cooling system for continuous track use
  • Custom radiator ducting
Brakes //
  • Carbotech XP20 front brake pads
  • Carbotech XP8 rear brake pads
  • 3” brake ducting for cooling
  • Stainless steel brake lines on all four corners
  • Castrol SRF brake fluid
Handbrake //
  • Era1 Handbrake assembly w/ custom mounting brackets
  • (installed handle removed)
  • Wilwood master cylinder w/ remote reservoir
  • Wilwood rear calipers and brake pads
  • Custom rear caliper stainless steel brake lines and mounting brackets
Exhaust //
  • Ford Performance cat-back exhaust system
  • Wheels & tires //
  • Michelin pilot super sport 235/40/r18
  • Arp wheel studs with open lug nuts
Interior //
  • Custom six-point roll cage
  • Recaro seats w/ford racing safecraft four-point harness
  • Rear seats / package tray removed
 
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Need some advice on track day events. I attended a NASA drivers school at Gingerman Raceway a few weeks ago and had a lot of fun with the ST. We had rain in the morning and hot mid 80's humid weather for the rest of the weekend. This was my first track event with the ST all my other events were Autocross and ProSolo stuff.

Heres my problem the car overheated and went into limp mode after two or three laps, I noticed that each time I passed a slower car the temp gauge would rise till it was pegged and limp mode would kick in. The car was fast but couldn't handle the stress of WOT to pass. Letting the car cool down before each run I learned how to keep it from overheating but it was a bit disappointing having to keep worrying about the overheating problem and learning my line.

If I attend another track event I've been told to consider replacing the OE radiator and FMIC any other areas I should consider modifying? If I do replace them I'm out of G stock class in Autocross events so I may want to consider what type of events to attend.

Also since the car overheated a few times I have since changed the oil & filter, any other safe guards I should consider, coolant etc.? At present the car runs fine with no issues, I do give Ford credit for a system that works at keeping the car running through all this.

Thanks.....:cool:

View attachment 394536 View attachment 394534 View attachment 394535
2013 ST3 115K miles; Cobb Intake, Accessport v3 MAP 1, Scorpion 3" CATBACK exhaust, Short Shifter kit, new pads & rotors.
Hey. I have also thought about tracking my **** box. Im thinking basic **** first. R&I the upper and und lower cowl. That makes a huge area for airflow. Also R&I der fender liners. I
 
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