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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched but didn't see exactly what I needed so...

As the subject line alludes, can I remove the cowl and remove the strut brace to get to the top hat nut without the top of the strut/spring assembly getting out of alignment?

I've got a clunk that is steadily getting worse and being pressed for time, place, and cooperating weather, I'm hoping I can remove the three strut bolts along with the fourth bolt (wipers?) and re torque the nut more easily than removing the strut.
I've already tightened and torqued the pinch bolt so that is ruled out. I will also be revisiting my end links but that is easy enough.

-Dave
 

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I would remove the 3 top hat bolts, remove the brace, then re torque the top hat bolts before tightening the center bolt. I have seen many times in the shop when fixed components are removed and replaced and this has affected the alignment settings. Alignment is such a precise thing that minute changes in the way parts come together can change it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I wanted to update this thread in case anyone else asks or searches.

The removal of the strut brace is very easy and right after I posted this I discovered this thread that makes the disassembly very simple to see and understand.

Just as someone else in that thread had happen, the passenger side strut moved and therefore the holes wouldn't line up. I jacked up the car and took the tire off. A little finesse and I got it lined up again. Not really that hard at all but it was an added task I was hoping to avoid.

The center nut under the brace was the culprit. It was necessary for me to use a pass through ratchet/19mm socket along with an allen T handle wrench (forget the size) to keep the shaft from turning with the nut while tightening.
 
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