you bought a street/track car and took it drag racing?
You put on a few bolt ons and figured it was going to drop full seconds off your time?
#drivermod!
#sellitandbuyamustang <---they go in straight lines better/faster
Do they? I've seen plenty of poorly driven Mustangs go very slow.
JST just went 12.17 with bolt-on parts. Granted they took a ton of weight out of the car, but look at it another way.
700+ lbs is 7 tenths of a second roughly.
Slicks will drop 3 tenths for every 1 tenth drop from your 60' time. OP is at 2.02 a 1 tenth drop is 1.92 that is more than possible on Nitto drag radials, the least sticky and the cheapest you can buy.
That alone would put him into the mid 13's, now it doesn't seem that bad. Only he and myself have heard Stage 3 cars run faster. Hell I still don't understand how a dead stock car can run 101-102 mph.
It likely had to do with really cool air, Yo Ken ran
[email protected] dead stock. By the way if weight is the thing, the 101 was done by a stock ST3 car and the 102 was done by a dead stock ST1
Next problem is he's not letting the car cool enough, it's not giving him max timing. Let's say he picks up 1.5-2.0 mph from that; all things being the same he would drop another tenth or so.
Now we're looking at mid to low 13's at about 103; where's that final 2-3 mph? JST ran their Blue ST (ST3) without the rear seats, spare, jack/tool and passenger seat. I could be wrong about the passenger seat, but anyway that's roughly 170 lbs out of the car. Oh by the way the Panda car did have all the seats out when they ran 12.8 on slicks + Stage 3. (1.8x 60')
Both cars have run 107-108 mph; I know there's one trick that's not talked about that I applied to my car and picked up 1.5 mph. You'll have to search the How-To threads for it.
Just working on my 60' time, I can find another tenth, no additional power needed.
Again another reason for doing things one thing at a time to gauge impact or lack of it.
@SIstomper is a wealth of information
But the rest of it I applied from my time with my Neon SRT-4 which ran
[email protected] (1.77 60
) with Stage 1 PCM, Wastegate (18 psi), AEM CAI, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust, 23" tall M&H slicks, rear seat and passenger seat + spare out.
Did 250hp/300ft on a Dynopack 91 octane. I ran a bottle of Lucas Octane Boost just to make sure no timing was pulled from 91 octane.
The ST is quite a bit heaver and I could pull the seats out and it will run somewhere between 13.2 and 13.3 at around 103-104 mph
A Fox Body, SN95, SN197 and the current car are all above 3300 lbs stock. A Coyote Stock SN197 holds the record at
[email protected] making somewhere in the mid 400's hp wise.
First issue is comparing FWD to RWD. A good 60' in a RWD car at this power level is 1.3-1.4
A big tire (26") Honda can get down in the 1.5's with Boost By Gear but that's also a stripped race car. For a more fair comparison we can look at IFO/MIR/IDRC/CMI Force Inducted Sport where they are limited to a smaller turbo (62 mm), must run a full interior (all seats, carpet, dash, everything) and 24.5 tire. There some breaks for using a smaller engine (1.6) but that's not important.
Most of the competitive cars run high to mid 9 seconds. Chances are you are not going to drive your Coyote Stock car on the street. Most fast Hondas aren't daily driven for theft reasons.
1.6, high 1.5's is normal there, lots of cars are in the low 1.7's. You race against Honda's, WRX, EVO's and GTR's. Legally you can run 10.0 and no more than 135 mph without any safety equipment others than a SNELL helmet and jacket which aren't that expensive. This is because the Focus and lots of other cars past 2010 have side air bags. NHRA did this to encourage those with Super cars to come out and race and not street race, but you can take advantage of this too.
For the cost of a Coyote Stock Build you can run mid-low 10's in a Focus ST. First you have to overcome the weight (3300-3400 with driver). 550+ hp that will get you 129-130 mph trap speed. Next you need to get your 60' down in the mid 1.6's; that takes trial and error but the M&H's are capable of it because it's run those times on similar platforms.
There's only one car currently over 550 hp (562) on these forums. The vast majority are stock with bolt-ons, many without even a tune and small minority of those with turbo upgrades.
Most them are in the low to mid 300's and a few over 350 and small number over 400. Edge Autosport's car would have run mid to low 11's at sea level, it ran 12.2 in that terrible air in Colorado.
I don't get this a Mustang will do it better. A brand new Mustang will easily run high 12's, banging the gears but most will run mid to low 13's stock (#driver mod). I can run high 12's with a tune, dp and slicks.
New Mustang is 30K+, ST cost me just under $25K and after all payments just about $29,000
It will be no less reliable either. I think the ST stock block will handle 500 hp if you don't detonate, which is frankly easy no to do. Take some weight out of the car and work on your 60' no reason it can't run high 10's and drive it home.
Also this is a big pet peeve with me, don't take options off the table. Too many people do that and are forced to spend more money to overcome some built-in bias.
